Django, Philadelphia

[cdh]

Indeed! Congrats to Greg and Ross.

Greg's a restauranteur in whose hands I'd trust Django to keep up to its reputation.

[Greg Salisbury]

Hey, everybody,

Thanks for all of the kind words and encouragement. As you can imagine, this is a huge deal for Ross and me, and extremely nerve-wracking. Seeing positive posts from people I know, like and respect means a lot.

The Shola/SK comparison is apt, and gave us considerable pause. There is always resistance to change, especially when it come to something as generally revered as Django. But we're not trying to replace Brian and Aimee; they have proven themselves to be unique over the last five years. We're just trying to continue the trajectory they have established for Django, as we will be doing for Rx.

Both sides of the staff have been really understanding and patient. Amazingly professional as well. Considering the circumstances, quite accepting of us.

On a lighter note, one of my friends from college called me to ask why I had to be involved in two restaurants with difficult-to-pronounce names.

[Holly Moore]

Congrats Greg and great success.

I know the answer before asking the question - Django's tremendous good will. But was there any consideration of renaming the place, thereby avoiding the inevitable comparisons?

The knee jerk reaction will always be that the sequel is not as fine as the original. That the principals have a strong and positive reputation will somewhat minimize this thinking, but it is a public and press perception battle that you are going to have to fight, to some degree at least.

[TarteTatin]

Congratulations, Greg!

We've always loved your food, your professionalism, and your passion for local ingredients.

I don't think you have to worry a bit.

Everything will be just dandy!

[Andrew Fenton]

Yowzers! That's quite the news, isn't it?

I've always had a sentimental attachment to Django: they opened in our neighborhood very soon after we moved there, and for about six months, before the rocketship took off, we got to enjoy a fantastic neighborhood restaurant. After that, the necessity of actually, like, planning our dinners weeks in advance turned it into a special-occasion place, but still one of our faves. So I wish the best of luck to Bryan, Aimee, and Analee in their next venture.

And best wishes to Greg during the transition, which I'm sure will go swimmingly. Greg, how does it feel to be turning into the Steven Starr of the Philly BYOB world?

[tim olivett]

Irony is a form of utterance that postulates a double audience, consisting of one party that hearing shall hear and shall not understand, and another party that, when more is meant than meets the ear, is aware, both of that "more" and of the outsider's incomprehension.

For most of you that will be obtuse, but some will know exactly what it means.

The same but different. Oh, the irony.

[KatieLoeb]

Irony is a form of utterance that postulates a double audience, consisting of one party that hearing shall hear and shall not understand, and another party that, when more is meant than meets the ear, is aware, both of that "more" and of the outsider's incomprehension.

For most of you that will be obtuse, but some will know exactly what it means.

The same but different.  Oh, the irony.

←

Say what?

Dude, speaking of irony, it might be time to change your signature line...

[monavano]

Irony is a form of utterance that postulates a double audience, consisting of one party that hearing shall hear and shall not understand, and another party that, when more is meant than meets the ear, is aware, both of that "more" and of the outsider's incomprehension.

For most of you that will be obtuse, but some will know exactly what it means.

The same but different.  Oh, the irony.

←

Utter flatulence. For those obtuse readers, which I'm sure none of you are, that's farting.

[shacke]

Irony is a form of utterance that postulates a double audience, consisting of one party that hearing shall hear and shall not understand, and another party that, when more is meant than meets the ear, is aware, both of that "more" and of the outsider's incomprehension.

For most of you that will be obtuse, but some will know exactly what it means.

The same but different.  Oh, the irony.

←

Say what?

Dude, speaking of irony, it might be time to change your signature line...

Permanently Chef at Rx Restaurant

45th & Spruce Street

Spruce Hill, West Philly

Farmer's best friend

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Katie, presumably this is part of said irony. While the double meaning remains unclear, the mood of the author is not. Perhaps we will be obliged further. I await Capaneus - our resident know it all - for clarification perhaps.

Evan

[Capaneus]

Irony is a form of utterance that postulates a double audience, consisting of one party that hearing shall hear and shall not understand, and another party that, when more is meant than meets the ear, is aware, both of that "more" and of the outsider's incomprehension.

For most of you that will be obtuse, but some will know exactly what it means.

The same but different.  Oh, the irony.

←

Say what?

Dude, speaking of irony, it might be time to change your signature line...

Permanently Chef at Rx Restaurant

45th & Spruce Street

Spruce Hill, West Philly

Farmer's best friend

←

Katie, presumably this is part of said irony. While the double meaning remains unclear, the mood of the author is not. Perhaps we will be obliged further. I await Capaneus - our resident know it all - for clarification perhaps.

Evan

←

Yes, well...

[harrumph]

...it can, as you say, be presumed from his peevish tone that Mr. Olivett feels agrieved by the parties involved in the aforementioned transaction. His claim of bitter irony means that the nature of the grievance probably is one that cannot be easily reconciled to the recent events.

I would guess Mr. Olivett feels that his talents or ambition were not given proper scope to shine during his tenure at Rx. That another is now being given such a setting seems to give him sharp dyspeptic pains.

And that he chooses to express his complaint in such pompous, priggish, pedantic diction, while pratfalling over the difference between "obtuse" and "abstruse" is itself keenly ironic, of course.

[harrumph]

How's that, Evan?

[shacke]

Irony is a form of utterance that postulates a double audience, consisting of one party that hearing shall hear and shall not understand, and another party that, when more is meant than meets the ear, is aware, both of that "more" and of the outsider's incomprehension.

For most of you that will be obtuse, but some will know exactly what it means.

The same but different.  Oh, the irony.

←

Say what?

Dude, speaking of irony, it might be time to change your signature line...

Permanently Chef at Rx Restaurant

45th & Spruce Street

Spruce Hill, West Philly

Farmer's best friend

←

Katie, presumably this is part of said irony. While the double meaning remains unclear, the mood of the author is not. Perhaps we will be obliged further. I await Capaneus - our resident know it all - for clarification perhaps.

Evan

←

Yes, well...

[harrumph]

...it can, as you say, be presumed from his peevish tone that Mr. Olivett feels agrieved by the parties involved in the aforementioned transaction. His claim of bitter irony means that the nature of the grievance probably is one that cannot be easily reconciled to the recent events.

I would guess Mr. Olivett feels that his talents or ambition were not given proper scope to shine during his tenure at Rx. That another is now being given such a setting seems to give him sharp dyspeptic pains.

And that he chooses to express his complaint in such pompous, priggish, pedantic diction, while pratfalling over the difference between "obtuse" and "abstruse" is itself keenly ironic, of course.

[harrumph]

How's that, Evan?

←

Could knot half said it butter myself. Thanks Cap'

Let's not spoil the mood on this otherwise upbeat thread. I repeat my very best wishes to Greg - hope to get down there and give them to you in person.

Edited October 17, 2005 by shacke (log)

[Peter Johnson]

Come on, someone has to have gone to the big D post-switcheroo. Anyone?

(I have reservations for Saturday)

[Capaneus]

Come on, someone has to have gone to the big D post-switcheroo.  Anyone? 

(I have reservations for Saturday)

←

I think you may be our man behind the lines! Stout fellow! Do us proud. eGullet expects every man to eat his duty... I mean, do his meal...

Just report back posthaste.

[Peter Johnson]

Okay. Saturday it is. I'm inspired by the ranks who've gone before, and who are yet to come.

Full report to be posted.

Wish me luck!

Come on, someone has to have gone to the big D post-switcheroo.  Anyone? 

(I have reservations for Saturday)

←

I think you may be our man behind the lines! Stout fellow! Do us proud. eGullet expects every man to eat his duty... I mean, do his meal...

Just report back posthaste.

←

[sara]

Had a remarkable dinner at Django Friday night with several friends. That place is back up and on its feet-- during my last 4 visits I'd felt a steady slow decline in both creativity and consistentcy, and more importantly in the cheese plate, with Aimee's absence. But this visit under the new regime was truly great. And my dining partners, all from Chicago, were extremely impressed. I enjoyed veal sweetbreads and a wild striped bass over lovely roasted beets, devoured the new extreme version of the cheese plate (must've been 12 kinds!) and ended with a goat cheesecake. Unfortunately too much tequila at Southwark after dinner prevents me from full recitations, but an excellent time was had by all.

[David McDuff]

Ok, let's revive this sleeping thread....

Django is still officially alive and very well. I'd always refrained from any formal or public reviews or commentary in the past, as I am good friends with founders and former owners, Aimee Olexy and Bryan Sikora. I've been three times now, with various groups of friends, since the handover to new owners Greg and Ross and have been impressed with the consistently excellent quality coming from the kitchen on all three occasions. There are a few new touches: slightly improved "stemware" (Riedel O series bowls), heavy curtains in the entrance to provide a bit of shelter from the elements, and rotating paintings by local artists. Consistency has been helped by retention of the excellent front of the house staff and at least some of the veterans in the kitchen.

Some menu highlights from our most recent visit:

Butter-poached escargot, potato-celeriac puree, garlic-parsley jus

A first course of perfectly tender snails awash in a richly flavored but lightly textured sauce, all circling a very flavorful and comforting mash of potato and celery root. Small slivers of fried potato and a couple of nuggets of candied citrus added contast and subtle flavor to an otherwise classic and well-executed dish.

Caramelized bay scallops, shaved fennel, red onion, blood orange salad, peekytoe crab vinaigrette

Perfectly seared, tender bites of bay scallop atop an assertively oniony but fresh and sweet slaw accented by the subtle sweetness of little shreds of crab and fennel. Wonderful as a middle course.

Venison loin, rutabaga puree, chestnut-studded spaetzle, juniper berry-verjus reduction

Venison is really easy to goof up. Cook it just a touch too long and it gets dry and tough. Hit it with the wrong sauce and it becomes metallic. Overdo the everpopular fruit or berry components and you miss the point.... This was right on. Four or five sliced medalions of fresh venison loin, seared then roasted (I suspect) to a perfectly tender medium rare. The sauce was flavorful but subtle and allowed the freshness of the deer to take center stage. The spaetzle and the rutabaga puree were both excellent winter comfort sides, well accented by a couple of braised baby fennel bulbs.

Layered phyllo and vanilla bean creme brulee, poached bosc pear

Deconstructed creme brulee, layered with light flaky phyllo dough gave new interest to a dessert that could easily have been insipid.... Shared three ways it was a welcome contrast to the rich flavors of our entrees and a good bridge to the ubiquitous cheese plate....

Artisan cheese plate, toasted nuts, herbed honey, crostini

I must admit, this is the one place where I most miss the infectious enthusiasm and depth of knowledge of our past host Aimee. To his credit, Greg and his staff do a creditable job with presenting the cheese plate and are still keeping the quality and diversity of selection at the top tier in the Philly market. As usual, we returned a pile of crostini in the center of an otherwise clean plate.

Edited to correct ridiculous typo's....

Edited January 10, 2006 by David McDuff (log)

[KatieLoeb]

In today's Philadelphia Inquirer, venerable restaurant critic Craig Laban both Explains the Bell System and also Demotes Pasion and Django from four bells to three and two bells each repsectively.

While I haven't been to Pasion in quite some time, I have heard reports that some of the service and food may have slid a bit, so I can understand demoting someone from four bells to three. But what Mr. Laban has done to Django is just unconscionable. And I have a theory about how and why it might have happened.

When Django orginally rated Four bells in January 2004 everyone was stunned. It was the first time a small, cramped and noisy (this is significant only because of Mr. Laban's inisistence on taking his decibel meter to restaurants) BYOB had ever made it into the exclusive fraternity that only true fine dining establishments with fine linens, expensive (read: comfortable) furniture, appropriate stemware, silver and china, uniformed waitstaff, serene surroundings and deep wine cellars had before. He took a lot of flack for that both here on eGullet and on that other board. No one understood why the metric had changed and what the logic behind the decision to go against type could have been. Philadining pointed out in another thread that perhaps it was a general nod to the entire BYOB culture of Philadelphia, a sign that some of the best and most creative food could be coming from a kitchen in a restaurant without all of the bells (so to speak) and whistles. There might be a grain of truth in that statement, but I still believe it was a more clearly a nod to Mr. Laban's favorite BYOB couple, Bryan and Aimee Sikora. They're both very nice and talented people, but it seems to me that the new owners of Django are being penalized for NOT being Bryan and Aimee.

Prior to the change of ownership Django had been cruising on its laurels for quite some time. Aimee hadn't been in the restaurant in a year due to the birth of the couple's first child, and Bryan wasn't there more often than not, leaving the place in the hands of his sous chef. The reports here, on Chowhound and on Citysearch will bear out what I'm saying. My own experience was that while Django was a great restaurant four years ago in it's heyday (although clearly not in the same league as any of the other four bell recipients), even by the time that review came out it had started to collapse under the ponderous weight of unfulfillable expectations. It only went downhill from there as the ownership became (rightfully) distracted by new family obligations.

The sale of Django to Greg Salisbury and Ross Essner was finalized October 13, 2005. It was well reported here as well as in the regional media. In the short not-quite-yet four months since that change of hands has taken place I haven't seen a single report either here or anywhere else saying that the food, service or ambiance at Django has suffered at the hands of the new ownership. In fact, Mr. Laban himself damns with faint praise by commenting on the new wine glasses at Django in the above linked article. I have to say I much prefer drinking my wine out of a proper Riedel glass (even the "O" glasses) than a jelly jar! So are Ross and Greg suddenly doing HALF as good a job as Aimee and Bryan were over two years ago? Has Django gone into a death spiral? I hardly think so, for if it had, we'd have all been the first to report on it, right?

So where did those elusive bells go? Are the new management the victims of a "double backlash"? Is Mr. Laban upset that his favorite couple aren't running his favorite BYOB anymore? Was there so much resentment from the public for giving a BYOB the same status as Le Bec Fin in the ratings that now he feels he has to take the bells away from someone undeserving of that punishment? They've only been in charge for FOUR months! Has he been in to re-review them in that short period of time and found that it's actually slipped that precipitously? If it has, is that their own fault or perhaps a carry over from the prior ownership that was resting on its laurels for far too long before deciding to sell? Greg and Ross kept the same staff, so they came with the place. Who's doing is it really that Django is now supposedly so average? And if the original four bell rating was artificially inflated by his own hand and it deserves to slip even one notch, why are the new owners suffering for it?

The devastating economic effect this demotion could have on a restaurant is on par with the positive effect a good review could have. Mr. Laban has the power to make or break a business with the mere stroke of his keyboard. I'm very disappointed that he's chosen to do this to some very hard working and talented people that are putting out superior product and service every day.

Anyone else?

edited to fix repetitive link

[Greg Ling]

I've worked for Ross in three establishments (first Bleu ,than Rx and also In L.I.)

and his style of cooking has evolved alot so I am biased in his favor,the two bell demotion seems severe ,especially since they put in new floors ,stemware and bathrooms.They also kept most of the staff front and back so who knows what the deal is.

[Holly Moore]

The devastating economic effect this demotion could have on a restaurant is on par with the positive effect a good review could have. Mr. Laban has the power to make or break a business with the mere stroke of his keyboard. I'm very disappointed that he's chosen to do this to some very hard working and talented people that are putting out superior product and service every day.

It is sad if Laban or any food critic has such power over a restuarant's success or demise. I'm hoping that is not the case. My experience from my restaurant days is that the doting lemmings who follow a critic's whims - either to blindly savor or arrogantly pick apart the review - are not representative of the reviewed restaurant's market or customer base - unless the restaurant is Olive Garden. Even though Elaine Tait gave us a great review, the customers who packed our dining room the next two or three weeks were easily distinguishable from our typical customers (though our customers were anything but typical) and as soon as Elaine wrote about another restaurant they mostly vanished, never to be seen again. We didn't miss them.

I would prefer to think that the sort of customer who would appreciate Django or any of the BYO's has enough savvy and curiosity to dine at Django and decide for themselves.

I also suggest that Laban's three and four bell restaurants would be just as successful if there had been no Inquirer review. Excellence shines on its own. For the most part Laban's three and four bell declarations have merely confirmed what knowledgable Philadelphia diners already knew.

[TarteTatin]

We have reservations there for this coming Thursday night, 5 of us, before a TLA concert: Pink Martini.

We always liked both Django and RX, so I'm sure everything will be just dandy.

[KatieLoeb]

I would prefer to think that the sort of customer who would appreciate Django or any of the BYO's has enough savvy and curiosity to dine at Django and decide for themselves.

I also suggest that Laban's three and four bell restaurants would be just as successful if there had been no Inquirer review.  Excellence shines on its own.  For the most part Laban's three and four bell declarations have merely confirmed what knowledgable Philadelphia diners already knew.

←

I have to hope that you're correct about this part, Holly. But I also know from dealing with the public and dealing with the fine folks here at eGullet that we're a much more sophisticated crew that will give someone a chance and make up our own minds unlike the "lemmings" that follow the whims and vagaries of the latest review. You only get one chance to make a first impression, even if that impression is in print. If that's taken away from you, it's hard to get that potential customer back again. In a dining room that seats less than 40 people, the sound of crickets from the empty chairs can be deafening and deadly.

And lemmings' money is just as green as anyone elses.

[mrbigjas]

So are Ross and Greg suddenly doing HALF as good a job as Aimee and Bryan were over two years ago?  Has Django gone into a death spiral?  I hardly think so, for if it had, we'd have all been the first to report on it, right?

i don't know--would we? has anyone gone? i mean, there are only 10 or 15 of us who post regularly here on the PA board, and i don't remember a single report on it. i just checked over on chowhound, and the one thread asking about it devolved into the standard 'oh i went and laban is crazy and it wasn't worth it' pile-on.

maybe it's because greg salisbury posts here and people don't want to offend him, so if they've gone and haven't liked it they haven't said so.

or maybe it's just that there are too many new places to visit to revisit old favorites as often as we'd like.

either way, i'd like a report from someone else whose opinion i know well enough to interpret (besides laban's, which i'm pretty well acquainted with).

[KatieLoeb]

i just checked over on chowhound, and the one thread asking about it devolved into the standard 'oh i went and laban is crazy and it wasn't worth it' pile-on.

That's kind of what I was saying. I never saw anyone that agreed with the four bell rating from the get go.

maybe it's because greg salisbury posts here and people don't want to offend him, so if they've gone and haven't liked it they haven't said so.

That might be true, but I suspect Greg could defend himself admirably and would be happy for some honest feedback.

either way, i'd like a report from someone else whose opinion i know well enough to interpret (besides laban's, which i'm pretty well acquainted with).

Well - Ross did the cooking for the Chairman's Dinner we held at Rx back in November. Our comments about it start right here. Assuming you still trust most of us we all thought Ross' cooking was fabulous and a harbinger of great things to come for Django. Assuming his talent hasn't suddenly left him, I have to presume it's still as at-least-three-bell-worthy as it was that night.

[Vadouvan]

Interesting similarities to the Bruni/Gilt discussion.

I too hope the public is much more evolved mentally to rely solely on food critics.

Although I am loathe to outright Trash any restaurant, clearly even by Laban's description...on the bell key....

Django's 4 bells under previous ownership was a hard sell and just made no sense outside of the context of "favouritism" as Katie suggests.

Let's use the non scientific comparative context of a 2 bell demotion.

Which is worse ?

1. 4bell to 2bell

2. 3bell to 1bell

3. 2bell to no bell

I put it to you that all 3 are equally aggregious.

What it says is that a restaurant falls far short of the expected and or touted ambition that it strives for. I find it diffucult that barring complete ineptitude and a deliberate scuttling of an operation, it is virtually nearly impossible for that to happen.

Complicated by the change of ownership however negated by the fact that the new owners paid a reputed significant chunk of cash for the place.

Nothing convinces you to do a great job better than a financial stake in an operation.

I would therefore have to agree with Katie ..............combined with knowing Greg salisbury's approach to food and people............the bells unravelled as soon as the bill of sale was signed.

I dont know how this will affect the restaurant but I suppose we shall all find out.

Laban's review is so far credited with the demise of TRUST now El Vez.

Similarly mediocre Le Jardin is still open despite the worst review in the history of journalism...

"This cheese is similar to a fromage" said the server to Laban.

So I say support Greg Salisbury and see 4 yourselves.

Think of it this way, if it was new and from scratch, a two bell review isnt as bad as a 2 bell demotion.

[herbacidal]

Interesting similarities to the Bruni/Gilt discussion.

I too hope the public is much more evolved mentally to rely solely on food critics.

I do too, but I've never been optimistic of that fact.

But I am slightly more optimistic of that than I used to be.