UK Media Round Up

[Suzi Edwards]

Please remember, some of these sites required paid for regestration to view their online content.

First up we have Terry Durak in the Independant wishing Made in Brazil had stayed in Brazil. While his colleague Tracy MacLeod visits The Sun, in Essex and blurs the distinction between pub and gastropub even further.

Jan Moir in the Telegraph finds something to complain about at Roka the new venture from the people that brought us Zuma.

As long as you avoid the cheese, Giles Corne says Pearl is a pearl of a restaurant, but you can see what our own Gary Marshall thinks on this thread here His colleague AA Gill is away but Martin Ivens has a terrible time at The Cipriani

Matthew Fort agrees with everything Andy Lynes says about Rasoi Vineet Bhatia in the Guardian.

Jay Rayner wonders if Midsummer House isn't taking the Fat Duck's name in vain in the Observer. You can discuss this review here

And has Fay Maschler been reading eGullet? She looks ready to take our own Che Guevara on about Argentinian beef with a review of the Gaucho Grill

And the glorious Fi has gathered this weeks best food related articles for you all...

from the Sunday Times

cooking Moroccan with Momo - first of a three-part series

from The Times

Gordon Ramsay just loves to wander around farmers' markets

extracts from GR's book Kitchen Heaven

three from Jill Dupleix

Michel Roux vanishes

from The Observer

Nigel Slater grills

from The Independent

Annie Bell eats seasonally

Mark Hix - it's not Grecian 2000

from The Guardian

lovely lamb

Heston Blumenthal - a breath of fresh air

from The Telegraph

caraway seed cake

Xanthe Clay cherry-picks cherries

Tamasin Day-Lewis nel giardino

Edit because I was wrong about the Times Online

Edited September 14, 2004 by Andy Lynes (log)

[Suzi Edwards]

Please remember, some of these sites require you to put your hand in your pocket to read their content...

There's a whole world of food related articles out there. We'll kick off with what tickled Fi's fancy this week;

Mark Hix says tomato

Heston Blumenthal's sherry amour

Tamasin Day-Lewis comes out in hives

FutureFarms Cooperative - local food for local people

Fairtrade food goes gourmet

Gordon Ramsay's gone fishin'

Three from Jill Dupleix

Maroc Stars - Moroccan recipes from Lucas Hollweg and Momo

Heston Blumenthal on umami

Nigel Slater doesn't answer emails from women called Shelley!

Green & Black - a day in the life of a cocoa farmer in Belize

Nayla Audi's raw kibbeh and other Lebanese delights

The Observer Food Monthly

And on the restaurant front

The Independant goes Roka crazy. You can compare what Terry Durack and Richard Johnson thought.

Giles Coren also visited Roka but you need to be registered with the times online to find out what he thought.

Matthew Fort made me think that Rutland might be a place to visit, if only to sample Hambledon Hall

Jay Rayner does a Q&A rather than a restaurant view

Jan Moir says, nice restaurant, shame about the food when she visits Damian Hirst's new Devonish Delight 11, The Quay

Kate Spicer finds Throgmortons a lady pleaser.

And finally Fay Maschler isn't friends with Amici

[CheGuevara]

is this where i would include comments to one of the reviews? need to check the etiquette forums around here.

-che

[Andy Lynes]

Che, if you start a new thread linking back to this one, it will raise awareness that the media round up exists and also avoid having posts about lots of different things on the one thread.

[Suzi Edwards]

So, what's going on the restaurant review world?

Firstly Terry Durak is in two minds about Pearl

Giles Coren goes to Leon but I can't tell you any more than that as I don't subcribe to the site.

AA Gill ruminates on American breakfasts and Roka which he really rather enjoys while Matthew Fort comes to a very different conclusion about the same place

Bet you 10 quid Jay Rayner reviews Roka next week. Because this week he's at Le Bouchon Bordelais in Clapham.

Nina Caplan has found Pomodorino an alternative to the poor pizza joints of Soho

Jan Moir has a whale of a time at Mortehoe Shellfish in Devon

Fi has found the following delights to tempt you in the food round up:

Francesco Quirico boars us

Heston Blumenthal on seaweed

Nigel Slater sings the blues

not so sweet - excess sugar bad for the skin

Lucas Hollweg & Momo in the Arabian des(s)ert

Xanthe Clay is broad in the bean

Preheat Oven To 180 Degrees - student fare from Tamasin Day-Lewis's daughter

Mark Hix uses his noodle

you'd batter believe it - it's a fish + chips festival in Tuscany

[jayrayner]

Bet you 10 quid Jay Rayner reviews Roka next week. Because this week he's at Le Bouchon Bordelais in Clapham.

I'll take that bet.

[Suzi Edwards]

I'm in a two day off-site meeting so there's a delay on the roundup. Sorry guys!

[Suzi Edwards]

Terry Durack hadn't read our thread about al fresco dining before he went to Exmouth Grill while his colleague Richard Johnson goes to the best restaurant in High Wycombe.

Is it just me or does Giles Coren look quite cute in his photo? This week he visits Il Pomodorino and The Abbey

AA Gill get's all self aware and discusses "fussy old bitch queens" at Pearl

Matthew Fort wins my adjective of the week competition with his use of the work honky-tonk in his review of The Stagg Inn in Hertfordshire

Jan Moir doesn't get served fried badger spleen at Sangsters in Fife which is a relief.

I owe Jay Rayner a tenner as he doesn't review Roka and instead goes to Foliage. Should people be allowed to book tables at quarter past the hour? You can read the thoughts generated by this review here

Finally Fay Maschler is back from holiday and finds Islington's Ottolenghi quite easy to stomach.

And I hear you cry where are the recipes for this week? Well, Fi has rounded them up like little Bo Peep for you...

Slater suggests salads

here's the scoop - groovy ideas for icecream

Eastern European summer food - gravadlax, shashlik, strawberries Romanov

Gordon Ramsay barbecues fish (coley on the coals?)

Xanthe Clay gives us a good beeting

liberte fraternite and ratatouille - Mark Hix cooks French

Saints preserve us! jammin' with Nick Sandler + Johnny Acton

There will no recipes next week as Fi is away. I shall see if I can get AA Gill to stand in for her.

[Suzi Edwards]

Fi's on holiday this week so it's just the restaurant round-up for your delectation...

Terry Durack thinks that Skye's the limit at Petersham Nurseries near Richmond (The Three Horseshoes in Madindly gets a mention in the round-up)

Tracy MacLeod welcomes Daniel Woodburn (ex Tom Aiken) to McClements in Twickenham

Giles Coren rails against The Atlantic Bar and Grill but takes comfort in Camerino on Percy Street

AA Gill claims that one of the waitresses at Harlam flirted with him. Lies, all lies.

Matthew Fort enjoys Allium in Dolphin Square

I am confident that Jay Rayner wishes he had gone to Roka rather than tasting Brian Turner's range of sandwiches for RoadChef. What next? Fay Mashchler on Burger King? Actually no, she's at A Greek Affair in Notting Hill

And finally, Jan Moir forgot to invite me to have Grouse at St John with her.

[Suzi Edwards]

Fi's back so you get your full entitlement of interesting articles to excite and titillate you today!

thou shall have a fishy on a little dishy - extracts + recipes from Mark Hix's new book

Tamasin DL seasonal recipes: stuffed marrow, plums + blueberries

blackcurrant + hazelnut meringue from Xanthe Clay

banana + honey flapjacks courtesy of the National Trust

He's a Fun-Gi to be with! Gordon Ramsay goes all mushy

eat your way to health - Locatelli + Ursell give us broccoli chilli + tomato; lobster; bean salad with roasted red onions; and many other things too numerous to fit on this page

three from Jill Dupleix

Heston Blumenthal makes chips in syrup - what's not to like?

Nigel Slater gives a fig

[Suzi Edwards]

Here we go for another week...

All together now...Terry Durack visits The Farm in Fulham while Tracy MacLeod visits the Carved Angel. You can read what other eGulleteers have said about this place here

The lovely Giles Coren wins my "word of the week" competition for his use of the word "hippocampi" in his review of The Chancery near Chancery Lane but I think he's straying in AAGill territory with this review.

Speaking of AA, he's away so Shane Watson takes the reigns and really rather enjoys Chez Kristof

Jay Rayner goes all fast food at Leon just off Carnaby Street

And here's the one I'd been waiting for, new Guardian food writer Victor Lewis-Smith eats at the The Groes Inn in Wales. I've started a thread here about it.

And finally Jan Moir visits the errantly titled The Cook's Room in Glasgow

There's some interesting stuff in the food round up this week from Fi...

Mark Hix gives us seafood recipes on the day that Channel Five shows a programme called Giant Killer Squid. Coincidence? I don't think so.

from the Telegraph: a load of old chestnuts and Sally Clarke cooks supper.

redcurrant jelly + pickled nectarines from Gordon Ramsey

take three ingredients to get something with mango lime + strawberry

burger that - Tom Norrington-Davies says junk the junk food

three from Jill Dupleix

There should be a Sunday Times - Eating For Life (Locatelli + Ursell make you eat broccoli) link but the website hasn't been updated yet

Red alert - Matthew Fort kicks off his new recipes column with a hymn to the tomato

pith and vinegar from Heston Blumenthal

Hail the Observer Food Monthly! from it we have carefully selected for your reading pleasure:

interview with Fergus Henderson. See also eGullet thread here.

Dating New York style - it's fast, cheap, and sweet (just like some of your prospective partners, we hope)

Nigel Slater clings onto summer

loving your lunchbox - Lynn Barber has all her meals delivered (and hates it)

Mark Hix rates ready meals. Again I say, coincidence? I don't think so.

and finally, from September's Waitrose Food illustrated, Sybil Kapoor's speedy seasonal recipes and Elizabeth Luard on saffron

[Winot]

The lovely Giles Coren wins my "word of the week" competition for his use of the word "hippocampi" in his review of The Chancery near Chancery Lane but I think he's straying in AAGill territory with this review.

Agreed; it was a mistake to go on about Bleak House for so long.

Fixed link here.

I'm going for lunch on Thursday - hurrah.

[Suzi Edwards]

just checking that you're all reading. thanks for spotting that winot. will you tell us how it was? can you start a new thread when you do?

[Winot]

Will try to but it'll be short - off to Russia for two weeks on Saturday so trying to clear my desk. Obviously still got time to go to lunch though.

[Suzi Edwards]

First up, Fi and the food links (I was inspired by Matthew Fort to buy some chard and can recommend his dishes)

game for a laugh - Mark Hix likes birds

Sally Clarke's perfect dinner party menu

The National Trust's chocolate cake - warning - calls for 'vegan margarine' - I'm not convinced

Continuing the seasonal them, Gordon Ramsey cooks apples + pears

Three from Jill Dupleix

Souk it and see - Claudia Roden's desserts

Matthew Fort trawls the farmers' markets

And here's the weeks restaurant "reviews"

Terry Durak comments that Umu is "all but for the very rich" while Richard Johnson visits The Fox Hunter in Abagavenny

Take me Giles, Take me! Ahem. Giles Coren visits Obsydian in Manchester with a rabid vegatarian called Graham. AA Gill comes off better with Tea at Claridges with Isabella Blow He's actually not that annoying for once...

Jay Rayner wins 'analogy of the week' for "mammary-plump prawns" at Taman Gang

Jan Moir finds a gem of a restaurant No Sixteen in Glasgow

Victor Lewis Smith ponders "the only question that really matter when evaluating a restaurant: what makes you pleased to be here?" at The Black Bull Inn in Moulton, North Yorkshire. You can discuss the concept that "sublime" when used as an adjective to describe food is very tired in this thread here

Marina O'Loughlin is turning Japanese, both Umu and The Centrepoint Sushi Bar

[curlywurlyfi]

First up, Fi and the food links (I was inspired by Matthew Fort to buy some chard and can recommend his dishes)

ooooh, me too, me too. did you try the chard gratin with bacon and a fried egg on top? can't WAIT to have a night in (2005 at this rate)

Fi

[curlywurlyfi]

in the absence of our glorious ottery leader who is on holiday this week, I'm doing the restaurants AND the recipe corralling this week, so send the brickbats my way.

First up, the restaurants.

Marina O'Loughlin is underwhelmed by Chez Kristof, but Charles Campion is in rhapsodies over Rhapsody, a South American place in W14 (reindeer pate anyone??)

Victor Lewis Smith bets his testicles at Manze's pie + mash shop. No, really.

Small, but perfectly formed - Jay Rayner visits 5 North Street and has an agrodolce experience

Giles Coren compares Selfridges and Harvey Nichols

Jan Moir gives L'Ortolan the bird, but Caroline Stacey rather liked it

Terry Durack thinks Ottolenghi in Islington is "is a great package of food, fashion, design and romance." Blimey.

Unfortunately (you might think) the Sunday Times's website is still featuring last week's AA Gill review, so I have not provided a link. Slackers.

and, now, for your recipe pleasure:

It's finger-lickin' good - Matthew Fort goes for hands-on food including spare ribs, grilled quail and piadine made with pork fat. Mmmm, hawg fat...

Nigel Slater and his explicitly firm corn cobs (and other seasonal delights)

A la mode? Gordon Ramsay talks about fashions in food - this season we will mostly be eating beetroot and lavender.

three from Jill Dupleix - lamb chop curry with peas, anyone?

Further slackery, this time from The Telegraph, who haven't updated their link for Sally Clarke's menus (third in a four-part series) either. Really, I don't know what the world is coming to. From memory, when I read Saturday's Telegraph, it was recipes for high tea, and the only one I kept was for... can't even remember, but it was on the right hand side of the page about half way down, does that help? no?

they did manage to give us cheap student eats though.

Berry, berry good - Mark Hix goes through the hedgerows

Chantal Coady compares and contrasts the ten best chocolates. Why can't I get that sort of gig?

And finally, this week's pun of the week award goes to The Independent, discussing a pink wine from Michigan called 'Sex'. See closing line

[curlywurlyfi]

... and a special bonus for you on this cheerless Thursday - from today's Independent review section, the ten best autumn cookbooks

[tony h]

... and a special bonus for you on this cheerless Thursday - from today's Independent review section, the ten best autumn cookbooks

←

not one i'd want to buy - is it just me or are there any real gems in there?

[curlywurlyfi]

mmm - can't really see myself queuing up to buy a book filled with recipes for 'fish offal'

not one i'd want to buy - is it just me or are there any real gems in there?

←

[YKL]

not one i'd want to buy - is it just me or are there any real gems in there?

←

Hmmmm .. wouldn't say gems precisely but I did like Sue Lawrence's previous baking book so got the new one as well and am awaiting delivery.

It's an interesting contrast to the OFM list that was published a couple of weeks ago.

Cheers

Yin

PS - I hope this isn't going too far off topic in the news round up bit.

[Andy Lynes]

Couple of additions to the list:

Starters by Pied a Terre chef Shane Osbourne due out in October (not on Amazon at the moment), more detiails to follow.

Les Halles Cook Book by Anthony Bourdain

I'm keen to get a look at the Mark Hix book, if only because I attended a mornings shooting for it at photographer Jason Lowe's studio.

[Suzi Edwards]

I'm back! Huge thank you to Fi for helping out while I was sunning myself in Tunisia...

Let's kick off with this week's recipes

Mark Hix eats his greens - lots of delicious cabbage recipes

rapped knuckles for the Saturday Telegraph who still haven't updated their recipes page; if you would like to see the September 18th Sally Clarke recipes then go here. Otherwise you'll have to live without for now. I've sent them a very sharp email, ooooh yes.

Gordon Ramsay has a pulse! Yes, this week he's cooking lentils. What did you think I meant?

Three from Ross Anderson (Jill Dupleix is away this week). Note for Suzi - includes Tarte Tatin!

Steaking acclaim - Lucas Hollweg tells us how to cook steak

Very Moorish (sorry) - Matthew Fort talks to the Sams Clark about their new cookbook (recipes given include mussels w harissa and potato cakes stuffed with minced lamb + pine nuts)

pigeon casserole and raspberry + ricotta pancakes from Nigel Slater

And onto the restaurants (our reviewers are a grumpy bunch this week...)

Richard Johnson can't find room in his heart for Room in Leeds

Giles Coren is quite rude about people from Chelsea when he visits The Farm in Fulham but the deserts sound quite nice.

Rod Liddle is standing in while AA Gill (or is it Giles Coren? Can never tell them apart m'self) is "resting his stomach" and does a nice job of savaging Umu Has this place had a good review yet? I give it until February...

Victor Lewis Smith surprises us all with a reasoned and insightful review of Club Gascon Sorry, meant to say pointless and puerile, don't know what came over me.

Jay Rayner is "pleasantly surprised" by E&O in Notting Hill but I doubt he'll be welcome in W11 for a while...

Finally the Telegraph has a review of Fully Committed at the Meunier Chocolate Factory instead of a restaurant

[Suzi Edwards]

Sorry about the delay this week!

First up, restaurants:

Terry Durack wonders if The Pig's Ear Dining Room in SW3 could ever be more than a bit on the side. Interestingly, he reviews this place during it's soft opening. I've started a thread about this HERE

Tracy MacLeod is at Damian Hirst's new place 11, the Quay in Ilfracomb, Devon I hate to spoil the ending, but she doesn't really like it.

Giles Coren allegedly reviews Chez Kristof but after a situation with a mullet, some poo and some dangly bits, instead decided to devote most of his review to the Fat Duck. And who can blame him?

AA Gill find a deli that wouldn't look out of place in Fulham, at The Corner on the Square in Inverness

VPL says fuck within the first 17 words of his review of Michael Caines Restaurant in Bristol How....boring.

Jay Rayner finds a gastro-pub called The Spotted Pig in New York

Jan Moir looks at the latest jewel in the Conran Crown, The Paternoster Chophouse just by St Pauls

Over to Fi for the best of this week's recipes to delight you...

Irish recipes from the Sunday Times. Includes those well known Irish ingredients, sweet potato and coconut.

take three ingredients - Gordon Ramsay. He also comes over all autumnal

three from Jill Dupleix

Sssssmokin! smoked mackerel + poached egg salad (and more) from Mark Hix

smell my cheese - Rose Prince chooses cheeses. but still no update to the Sally Clarke link.

more recipes from the new Moro cookbook

Matthew Fort snatches victory from the jaws of defeat - fruit soup, pigeon casserole, salmon with sorrel sauce. but not, presumably, in that order.

Ssssssmoking, part deux! Words of wisdom from Heston Blumenthal

would you like that with an olive, a twist, or a pebble? new garnishes for cocktails

Observer Food Magazine - main link. Highlights include:

- Jay Rayner at Per Se

- Nigel Slater's top ten autumnal recipes

- spice route recipes from Alistair Hendy

- everything for your gourmet dog. Includes Kobe beef dog food. No, this is not a wind-up.

[Suzi Edwards]

Welcome to this week's smorgasboard of culinary delight. Here are the receipes, from our own lovely Fi who admits she has been drooling over the Moro receipes.

QUOTE]From the Guardian, recipes from Nigella Lawson's new book Feast and from the new Moro cookbook

Nigel Slater crumbles

orange squash? Tom Norrington-Davies cooks pumpkin

Toast of the town! Mark Hix makes a meal of it

Xanthe Clay lays down the law over fish pie

fast food doesn't have to be grim - recipes from the new FF venture, Leon

thre-e-e from Jill Dupleix

The Times promises us breakfast in bed with Gordon Ramsay!!! but... the link's broken

It's a thin week for restaurants...

Richard Johnson joins the chorus of approval for Leon

but I think that Terry Durack is on holiday. If he's not back next week I'll send out a search party.

Giles Coren is amusing about chocoholics and Oompa-Loompas at the Menier Chocolate Factory in SE1

AA Gill discusses the metaphysics of the Amerindian when he goes to the overhauled Gaucho Grill

Ten pounds to whoever can guess the pun on Chef Jeff Bland's name in VPL's review of Number One in Edinburgh No cheating.

Jay Rayner slays Throgmortons in EC2. a restaurant that seems to have named itself after the noise you make when clearing your throat.