Purslane a-plenty

[cdh]

I'm looking for some inspiration on what to do with this succulent weed that has been spreading throughout my garden like wildfire.

I know that I could use it in salads as a green, or mix it in with cubed cucumbers and tomatos... What else is there to do with it? It's got a bit of leafy crunch like mache does, but has a brighter flavor... sort of like less sour sorrel in a mache like form...

Maybe I'll go snap a picture so that people know what I'm talking about and edit it into the post in a bit.

[Knicke]

You can gently sautee in a little butter/olive oil! Or steam and serve with a little pat of butter and some lemon. My parents had oodles of it in their garden when I was growing up, and that's always how we had it....

Actually I think the weedy wild kind works best for cooking; I'm growing the domesticated variety in a mesclun mix, and the flavor is not as strong...works good in salads but doesn't have any punch when cooked...

[Pan]

I have the brainstorm that it might be a good garnish for fish. What do actual practicing cooks think about that idea?

[Wolfert]

In America, grandmothers spoil their grandchildren with sweets; in the turkish town of Gaziantep, grandmothers use purslane. The story goes that Turkish cops will stop writing traffic tickets if the violator promises to bring them a freshly cooked pot. Purslane is the key to the stew's special flavor. Americans often refer to purslane as "that nuisance weed," the one that crops up in gardens, window boxes, sometimes even in the middle of gravel driveways. But to knowledgeable cooks, it is no nuisance! With its mild lemony taste and plump texture, it is a wonderful-tasting fresh green, of which there are precious few in late summer. If you don't have a garden and don't know where or how to forage for purslane, ask an organic grower at your local farmers' market to pick some for you. Perhaps you could even tempt the grower with a pot of stew.

This is a little bit of work, but it uses up 1 12/ pounds of purslane. Prepare it in the morning and serve it in the evening at room temperature or cold. It is absolutely delicious.

Serving: 4 TO 6

1/2 cup dried black-eyed peas, soaked overnight and drained

1/3 cup dried chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained

1/4 cup mini brown lentils, picked over and rinsed (See box)

1/4 cup olive oil

5 ounces boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 medium onion, finely chopped

2 teaspoons tomato paste

2 teaspoons Turkish red pepper paste (See Notes)

1 1/2 pounds purslane, thick stems discarded and leaves coarsely shredded

1/2 cup coarse bulgur

2 tablespoons minced garlic

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Salt

1 tablespoon dried spearmint, leaves crushed to a fine powder

1/4 teaspoon Turkish red pepper flakes (see Notes)

Freshly ground black pepper

Trimmed scallions and lemon wedges, for serving

1. Rinse the black-eyed peas and chickpeas. Pour them into separate medium saucepans and cover with several inches of water. Cover and cook over moderate heat until tender, about 20 minutes for the black-eyed peas and 1 hour for the chickpeas. Drain the black-eyed peas and discard the liquid. Drain the chickpeas; reserve 1/3 cup of the cooking liquid.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, combine the lentils with 4 cups of water, cover partially and cook over moderate heat until tender, about 40 minutes. Drain; reserve 2 cups of the cooking liquid.

3. In a large, enameled cast-iron casserole, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the lamb and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the onion, cover and cook until softened but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add the tomato paste, red pepper paste and 1/2 cup of water and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook, stirring once or twice, until the mixture begins to caramelize, about 20 minutes.

4. Add the purslane, bulgur and the reserved chickpea and lentil cooking liquids to the casserole. Cover and cook for 10 minutes. Add the chickpeas, black-eyed peas, lentils, garlic and enough water to barely cover. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice and season with salt.

5. In a small skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the spearmint, Turkish red pepper flakes and 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper. When the oil begins to sizzle, give it a stir and drizzle it over the stew. Stir once and let stand for 30 minutes. Serve the stew at room temperature or let cool, then refrigerate and serve chilled the following day. Pass the scallions and lemon at the table.

©Paula Wolfert, Mediterranean Grains and Greens

NOTES: Turkish red pepper paste and Turkish red pepper flakes are available at Middle Eastern groceries or by mail order from Kalustyan's (212-685-3451).

Edited June 29, 2004 by Wolfert (log)

[trillium]

Purslane (aka verdolaga) gets used a lot in some areas of Mexico... my favorite way to eat it is in a pork stew type thing with tomatillos and green chillies. I remember reading it has the highest omega3 and 6 fatty acids of any vegetal thing, so it's good for you too...

And it is good with fish too.

regards,

trillium

[Behemoth]

Purslane is what is supposed to be in the Lebanese salad, fattoush. (Here restaurants always seem to use just lettuce or something.)

Ms. Wolfert has a recipe her book, "The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean". I'd also be happy to post my version, if you want it, though I'm guessing its fairly similar...

Sadly, my yard weeds don't include purslane, and I am no longer in Philly so I can't swipe some from my moms garden. I tried my dandelions though, those were okay. (My neighbors think I'm really weird.)

[esperanza]

Trillium, you jogged my memory: espinazo con verdolagas (pork spine with purslane) is one of my favorite Mexican 'big soups'. Verdolagas can be purchased here at any time of the year, in big bunches, at the local street markets. The taste is slightly acid, very green, and it makes a wonderful combination with the pork, the chiles, etc, that are used in this magnificent rustic dish.

[Wolfert]

Another recipe that uses huge amounts of purslane is a mixed greens salad in Morocco. The Moroccans steam the purslane leaves until tender. After cooling they are chopped and mixed with parsley, cilantro, garlic and some salt and fried in a skilet with olive oil into incredibly dense. Some paprika and cayenne are added to taste. Just before serving, some lemon juice is added.

This paste like greens salad keeps up to a week, covered, in the refrigerator. You could call it "purslane confit."

[newguy]

we are currently adding it to the saute of yellow carrots, braised baby fennel, green and yellow beans and snap peas for a dish at the restaurant. we add it in right at the end, so it doesn't even really wilt at all. keeps it's citrusy crispness.

we also had it once with lemon cucumbers, tomatoes, real fresh herbs and a fantastic tomato vinaigrette for a shrimp dish.

[bong]

From a recent San Francisco Chronicle: Purslane: To some a weed, to others a delicacy

[cdh]

Thanks so much everybody! I'm feeling some inspiration now.

As promised, here's a picture of part of the purslane patch:

[Busboy]

I find the stuff more of a weed than a delicacy -- can't get the image of it growing through the cracks in my driveway out of my head -- but I did once try a pretty good recipe with it. Just toss it with roasted or fried potatoes, fried pancetta or your favorite cured pork product, and a vinaigrette. Simple, summery, tasty.

[helenas]

for those less fortunate, i've just read about the possible substituation for robust purslane - watercress.

[Mottmott]

Rx uses it on its pickled beet, fried cheese, and mango app. I had it just tonight and it was pretty good.

[Bond Girl]

CDH, my address is ....Please send unwanted purslane

I actually sautee them with balacan paste and thai chili and serve them over rice.

[hathor]

We've been eating all summer: mash up anchovies with basil, EVOO, red wine vinegar, toss with tomatoes and purslane. Eat lots.

I never thought to cook with it! Very sorry to hear its season is ending!

[bloviatrix]

They had purslane at the greenmarket this morning. I wish I had seen this thread before I went -- I would have bought some.

[petite tête de chou]

You could use purslane in place of spinach in a quiche or savory tart...with bacon, of course.