restaurants

[peterdee]

I will be in Paris for four nights in late July and will be staying in the marais-batille area. For the last five years we have stayed on the left bank, but last year we decided to stay in a new area. We have been given a number of resturants to try, but we will only need four. If anyone knows about the following or has suggestions I would be most gratfull. La Grande Colbert, La Biche Au Bois, Chez Julien, L Auberge Nicolas Flamel, Chez Paul, I Impasse [Chez Robert]. We will also be travelling to Nantes as a base but travelling to the Loire and Brittant for four weeks so would appreciate any recomendations.

Peterdee

[John Talbott]

I used to love Biche Au Bois especially in game season when they had biche on the 122 FF menu; but they underwent a changement in direction two years ago and I think things really went downhill despite the very nice waiter who stayed on. Recall that Paris is really very small and so easily navigated; just go where you want and don't be bound by the Marais/Bastille geography. That said, however, there is a very nice new restaurant, Le Duc de Richelieu right near the Biche which was recently well reviewed in both Figaroscope and Pariscope's TimeOut section (see the Paris Digest, week of May 31st above) and I loved it on June 3rd. But again, why be bound by geography?

[PS]

La Grand Colbert was *okay* when I went there a year or so ago. Great interior, entertaining sites of 70 year old Parisian males dining out with 6 foot-plus blonde goddesses, food not bad, but not as good as could be had elsewhere.

I had a very good meal in La Pamphlet, 38 rue Debelleyme, Tel:01.42.72.39.24 in February. Good food, good, friendly service, good value. It's an easy walk to the north of the Marais.

[John Talbott]

Just to balance things, I had a very disappointing meal at La Pamphlet two years ago and never went back; but it gets continuing great reviews.

[PS]

I did read that before I went, John, and, I think, John Whiting's review, where he had a bad experience with the staff in particular, so I feared the worst. However, for our meal the staff were relaxed and friendly and the food hit the spot.

[John Talbott]

For what it’s worth, here are the restaurants listed in Figaroscope 21-27 April for Bastille – 11th

Le Square Trousseau

Le Brespail

A l‘Ami Pierre

Swann et Vincent

Paris Main d’Or

And Figaroscope 28 January-3 February for Rue des Rosiers – 4th

Jo goldenberg

La Verriere du Marais

Le Loir dans la theiere

Chez Marianne

I would add my personal favorite in the area – Le Dome du Marais 53bis rue des Francs-Bourgeois; great setting, good product.

[Hugo]

Chez Paul is an absolute delight.

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,11410-990353,00.html

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Just to balance things, I had a very disappointing meal at La Pamphlet two years ago and never went back; but it gets continuing great reviews.

Le Pamphlet was wonderful when it first opened; we made it a point to reserve there for every stay. In, perhaps, its third year it went downhill, and we, too, stopped going. I have read that in the past year it has greatly improved, the food returning to its previous level and the staff more accommodating.

I would certainly add Le Repaire de Cartouche to this list. It is located at the Filles-du-Calvaire metro stop, certainly an easy walk from the Marais-Bastille area. We have never been disappointed with a dinner here.

Le Repaire de Cartouche

8, boulevard des Filles-du-Calvaire or another entrance at 99, rue Amelot

Paris 11e

01.47.00.25.86

[menton1]

I second the vote for Le Dôme du Marais; A wonderful choice, and a truly beautiful environment, an old building with a skylighted-courtyard so it gives an outdoor feeling though you are indoors. Food has a Breton accent, but is eclectic as well.

The Marais is our favorite area to stay in Paris. the area is hip and lively, wonderful shops and activity, yet it doesn't have the cold, tourist feeling of the 1st and 8th Arrs., nor the over-congestion and frenzy of the 6th. The Seine beckons, just a few blocks, and you have the magnificent Hôtel de Ville, and great, quirky shopping at the BHV.

Another interesting choice of ours is L'Alivi, where everything is from Corsica including the wines and the paintings on the walls-- quite interesting; and a terrific, casual bistro with about 40 tables on the sidewalk on a dead end street is Café Trésor.

Bon appétit! Please report back here after your trip!

Edited July 3, 2004 by menton1 (log)

[NYCmedic]

Any comments on PIERRE GAGNAIRE's place in Paris?

[Bux]

Any comments on PIERRE GAGNAIRE's place in Paris?

Have you tried doing a search? I'm sure the restaurant's been mentioned many times. He's highly respected. The food is very creative and although most reports are excellent, I've heard from those who did not enjoy dinner there. The latter may be true of every restaurant. What exactly do you want to know about it, or more specifically what do you already know about it?

[cheeseandchocolate]

I'm currently renting a little apartment in the 11th, on rue du Chemin Vert, so I'm a nice little walk from the Bastille and the Marais. I definitely second the votes for le Repaire de Cartouche--absolutely fantastic food, wonderfully rustic interior --and I'd also add Au C'Amelot, which is about a block south of le Repaire on rue Amelot. Au C'Amelot offers one set four-course menu per day at 32 euros, and it's tiny and always packed. I have been to Swann et Vincent, which was mentioned above, but wouldn't write home about it.

As for the Marais, I second the mention of Le Loir dans la theiere, which is a really lovely, funky tea spot with enormous and delicious tarts. A mile-high lemon meringue pie comes to mind--be not afraid of its size! Also on rue des Rosiers, don't miss L'As du Fallafel--the best fallafel in Paris, hands-down. I'm headed there tomorrow night myself. Don't be led astray by the other fallafel joints in the neighborhood.

As for a good local boulangerie, don't miss Au Levain du Marais. It has three outposts, two of them being right in this neck of the woods: one is at blvd. Beaumarchais and rue du Pasteur Wagner, and the other is just north of la Place des Vosges, at rue de Turenne and rue du Foin Verlomme, I believe. Mmmm, pain de campagne!

[marlena spieler]

In the marais I'm always happy with Le Baracane, on rue des tournelles, especially wonderful (and reasonably priced) for lunch, and if a big fat salad is on the menu, do order that! (only thing that really really dissappointed was their cassoulet which they had told me was a speciality. don't order it).

wonderful wines and eau de vies from the countryside and great duck, and cheese.

la remulaud on rue fauboug st antoine is out near nation, but a nice walk from the bastille. chez leon for tunisienne food: esp the selection of augerbine salads etc, and couscous.

and camille on rue francs bourgeouise serves food at all hours, and is a capsule of french life, has never let me down for reliable bistro-ish faves.

brunch or wine and a cheese plate/charcuterie plane at coup de fou..........

[marlena spieler]

ps: I meant charcuterie PLATE instead of plane. though a plane filled with charcuterie might help me get over my fear of flying, at least for that meat-filled flight.

marlena

[zoeadler]

We live not far from the Bastille and I can say that although we love Chez Paul for the atmosphere, the food has taken a serious nose dive. I'd highly vote against it - and it used to be our regular place. As for Swan and Vincent, it's a neighborhood regular, but as someone said, it's nothing to write home about - good pasta and ok wines. Although not mind boggling, but a real french experience is Bofinger on place de la Bastille...go for the deluxe seafood platter for two to experience what french brasseries are all about. Per John Talbott's list - Goldenbergs and Chez Marianne are like NYC deli food with a bit of sephardic fare mixed in. Fun because they are in the heart of the Marais on rue des rosiers. Square Trousseau is somewhere we've been meaning to try - it's typical french fare and it's quite trendy right now...but attitude I've heard is a bit snobby. But on a warm night on the terrace it's quite nice. Sadly I can't say we've discovered any amazing restaurants in our area in the past year or so and venture outside the Marais and Bastille for good eats!

[John Talbott]

  I definitely second the votes for le Repaire de Cartouche--and I'd also add Au C'Amelot, which is about a block south of le Repaire on rue Amelot. 

I like both le Repaire de Cartouche and Au C'Amelot, for what's it's worth, and Square Trousseau, last time I was there as well.

[halland]

I'll also add a recommendation for Au C'Amelot. I was there in February and had a phenomenal meal there. The food was outstanding (see my post here).

With regard to Le Grand Colbert -- I'd avoid it like the plague. If you have the time, you should check out La Galerie Colbert as it is stunning, but I'm afraid that Something's Gotta Give has ruined the place. When we were there, they had their regular, French language menu posted in the window. Outside the restaurant they had a large 3' square English language menu (all in the horrible Comic Sans MS font, which is reason enough not to patronize them) posted on an easel. Also I remember hearing from other people that during service they bring out a photo album of the making of the movie.

Hal

[peterdee]

La Grand Colbert was *okay* when I went there a year or so ago. Great interior, entertaining sites of 70 year old Parisian males dining out with 6 foot-plus blonde goddesses, food not bad, but not as good as could be had elsewhere.

I had a very good meal in La Pamphlet, 38 rue Debelleyme, Tel:01.42.72.39.24 in February. Good food, good, friendly service, good value. It's an easy walk to the north of the Marais.

←

We have just returned from a five week stay in France and one of the best meals we had was La Pamphlet, and the service was wonderful

Peterdee

[kerriar]

Le Loir dans la théière on the rue des Rosiers (near Place des Vosges) should be on anybodies list of places to drop into at any time of the day – you'll find cluttered collections of mismatched furniture, good coffee and teas and cakes which risk departing from conformist tendency which sometimes afflicts even the greatest of French patisserie. Also serves light lunches although the sagging couches are better suited to tea and lemon cake. (The earliest edition of Patricia Well's "Food Lover's Paris" has the recipe for the latter but there is I think no reference to either the cake or the café in later editions – can't see why it's been dropped as the place hasn't changed in twenty years.)

If you want to eat in one of the city's most authentic Italian restaurants, then I can advise L'Osteria which is nearby at 10 rue de Sevigné. In this instance the street number is vital as there is no sign outside and in fact you may be hard put to determine that there is a restaurant there at all unless the door is open. The place is small and intimate in many senses – most railway carriages will seem like tennis courts in comparison – but the food will not disappoint. Service is unpretentious, portions are moderate but the quality of the food is beyond reproach and flavours are deep and authentic. We had a risotto with truffles and pasta with sea urchins (the French word oursin also means hedgehog I think) and there is a good selection of Italian wine. It's by no means cheap – and that's before you start ordering truffles – but seems to attract small groups of sophisticated Parisians who have the air of people who eat there regularly. The chef will come and talk at the table – he doesn't have far to come – and is at ease in either French or Italian.

Try also Le Rouge Gorge in nearby rue St Paul – again this restaurant is small, food is reasonably priced and influences tends towards rural France but you go here for the wine. The patron is a wine merchant but there is almost no wine list – instead you can go down to the cellar, pick a bottle and it will be served at retail price plus a small corkage. Again you should reserve here, at least in the evening.

[John Talbott]

one of the best meals we had was La Pamphlet,

I've got to believe you guys who love Le Pamphlet are right and I just had one of those odd bad experiences. Thanks, I'll put it back on the try again list.

[Felice]

I was looking through this thread for options because I have a friend who will be in town on Thursday night and he's staying in the Marais. Since he's only here for the night I wanted to stay close to that area.

I've always wanted to try both La Repaire de Cartouche and Le Dome du Marais so I leaning towards these. Any thoughts?

He asked for something "terribly French" if that's a help.

Merci!

[peterdee]

I have been travelling to Paris for the last six years and my favorite restaurants would be Le Pamphlet 38 rue debelleyme 0142723924, and L'Ambroise 9 pl. des Vosges 0142785145. The two are wonderfully FRENCH. I have eaten at Le Dome and have not been impressed

[TarteTatin]

We just stayed in the Marais the beginning of January and had two lovely meals at neighborhood bistros:

La Baracane

Chez Janou

Liked them both, La Baracane is southwest French, and despite a review earlier, we liked the Cassoulet...

Chez Janou is more good salad, fresh fish, Provencal cuisine. Not a lot of tourists in there either.

Also, there's an oyster chain that isn't bad. Les Bars au huitures .

Bofinger has good food if you go off hours, sit in the non smoking beautiful room. During busy hours they are extremely snotty if you don't reserve.

Don't eat at Ma Bourgogne on the Place Des Vosges, but do try a morning pastry shop around the corner from there for pain au chocolat, the best in the city! It's Levain du Marais, I believe on rue de Tournelle.

[John Talbott]

I've always wanted to try both La Repaire de Cartouche and Le Dome du Marais so I leaning towards these.  Any thoughts? 

←

Repaire is more "French." Both are good, but the setting at the Dome du Marais is more impressive.

[Felice]

Thanks very much for the suggestions. I've actually been to both Bofinger and Chez Janou (which is great in the summer) a few times and want to try something new this time.

Hmmm, it's a difficult decision, but I think I might lean towards La Repaire as it is more "French".

Plus I have a cookbook called "Qu'est-ce qu'on mange ce soir" and Rodolphe Paquin, the chef of La Repaire, is one of the authors, so it would be nice to try.