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New York minute


Florida Jim

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My daughter hadn’t been in ten years, her husband, never.

On the plane up from Tampa, we met an old friend on the plane. We caught a cab from LaGuardia and the driver was chatty and friendly. The bellman at the hotel was telling jokes and really efficient at the same time. Our rooms were delightful; the weather was cool and pleasant. And we were together in the greatest city in the world.

The kids had a list of must do’s; Diane and I didn’t. Ostensibly we had come to see the Klee exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It was understated, albeit a bit dark; reflective of his life and health in his later years. But the Chagal of “The Lovers” inspired me, the Modigliani’s enchanted and a Balhaus or two were so seductive. I could spend several weeks here; several hours were just an appetizer portion.

We walked countless miles in three days; so many that my calves are cramped. On what must have been one of the first beautiful weather weekends in the city, we rode subways shoulder to shoulder, walked streets completely overwhelmed by pedestrians and never found a rude, unfriendly or inconsiderate person. Many folks said hello, subway riders talked to us and literally everybody said please, thank-you and your welcome in appropriate circumstances. I did not see a single angry or frustrated person nor hear a single swear word. I think the “nasty New Yorker” persona is created to keep tourists away.

Since the kids were along, this was not a weekend for wining. But we tasted a few:

2002 Feudi, Falanghina:

I’d not had a Falanghina before but remembered one of Marshall’s notes; it was delicious. Soft in the mouth but not flabby with ripe fruit, some rainwater scents and tastes and a clean finish. Note to self – buy more.

2000 La Ragose, Ripasso:

Decent fruit but little complexity or structure and less flavor than I expect from Ripasso. Nonetheless, very good with osso bucco.

1996 Cantina Produttori, Carema:

Unimpressive with little nebbiolo character and some sour earth scents and flavors with dusty tannins. We drank it with pizza, because there was nothing else, but if I’d have opened this at home it would have gone down the drain.

I also made a quick trip to Chambers Street Wines for a 2001 Burgundy tasting, a chance to talk to co-proprietor Jamie Wolfe and the opportunity to meet Lyle, David and Nick. Funny (as in funny “nice”) about wine people; you’re always welcome.

The wines generally did not impress with the biggest disappointment being the Fourrier, Clos St. Jacques which came across stemmy and closed. Surely time is on its side but I can’t imagine someone unfamiliar with the wine plopping down $70+ on the strength of this showing.

But there was a gem on the shelf:

2001 Mark Angeli, Anjou “La Lune”:

100% chenin with a wet wool, chamomile nose that opened to more tropical fruit tones; smelled liked a sweet wine but despite being full in the mouth (like a sweet wine) it was dry, structured and deep; flavors much more about fruit than the nose with mineral accents and a hint of beer and really outstanding length. A sensational wine and my first from this producer. Thanks Nick.

Oh yes, one twilight zone moment; walking for hours among the skyscrapers and throngs, Diane and I came upon Paley Park. A quiet oasis in a cement world, this tree shaded patio has a water-wall across one end that took me completely away from the urban surroundings. We just stood at the edge of the pool and stared and breathed in the humid air. And felt better.

I could go on and on; so many great moments. It’s a turbulent, dazzling, excessive city that is a carnival for the senses; I truly love it. And all this nonsense about surly New Yorkers; well, you can’t prove it by me.

Maybe a small place on the upper west side . . .

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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never found a rude, unfriendly or inconsiderate person. Many folks said hello, subway riders talked to us.

You just didn't look hard enough! Glad you enjoyed our city, and had some good wine as well. I'd like to check out the wine shop you mention, thanks for the info.

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I'd like to check out the wine shop you mention, thanks for the info.

Its between West Broadway and Greenich on Chambers Street. Ask for Jamie or David; these guys know their stuff.

And if you want to see what my cellar looks like, just browse their inventory. IMO, the best small store inventory I know and definitely "to my taste."

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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