Grand Central Oyster Bar

[Beachfan]

I'm thinking of a light lunch of oysters and red chowder there on Wednesday.  Location is super-convenient.  Anyone with recent a recent experience to share?

[pastrychef]

Was there this past weeek. Excellent. Suggest white not red soup though. It is the signature. Sitting at the bar is the way to go. The bar bar to the right of the entrance not the horseshoe shaped counter in the middle.

[Bux]

I would agree about sitting at the bar and that's the bar facing the oysters if there's any doubt. I'm not a fan of anything I've had there except the oysters and the new herring that arrives at the end of May from Holland. I found the New England clam chowder exceptionally rich, but tasteless. Others have loved it.

[Beachfan]

Well, it was just ok.  I only expected great oysters, but only half of the dozen were great.

Kumumoto's - the major disappointment, as these are my favorite.  They were from California, which might have been the problem (Puget sound's Kumi's are very sweet).

Malpeque's from PEI - superb

Coromandel's from New Zeeland - excellent ,and a new discovery

Blue Points from Long Island - tasted tired.

The red chowder was nice though, I enjoyed it (with a shot of tabasco).

Overall, it drops off my list.

[Ingrid]

Narrowly escaped an accident in a pedicab (couldn't find a cab) driven by a deranged Estonian  on the way to Grand Central, but that's another story.

The oysters were amazing. My brother asked the waiter to choose a selection, and they were all incredible. Somehow, the Wellfleets were even better than the ones I had a week earlier in Cape Cod.

The house Viognier was delicious.

The only shortcoming was that the squid salad came without any dressing, and service was very, very slow.

The following night I had oysters on the half shell at the Plaza Oyster Bar, and was wishing I was back in Grand Central.

[Vivian Horwitz]

I went there for dinner with my brother on a short trip to NYC a while back - the noise level was INCREDIBLE couldnt hear myself think (loud enough to be unpleasnt to my euro-sensibilities) I ordered a bottle of white burgundy (expensive wine -mantargis as I remember) anyway got the wrong wine (was cheaper wine - sent it back eventually got the right wine but by then halfway through dinner) My Bro (who is a NYorker by adoption & marriage) had stone crab "wunnerful wunnerful" I tasted it and was less impressed - my tuna was rank, stale inedible and really rather nasty. Ann's oysters were excellent.

Overall - expensive, noisy and apart from the history and decor and stuff like that - if what you want to do is eat then I would go elsewhere. Though if somebody else is paying I will always "go in hope" it ought to be one of the great places and could be.

[Bux]

Depending on where you are coming from, even the oysters may not be a draw. Nevertheless I recommend them and recommend you sit at the oyster bar as table service is not much better than the cooking the--sometimes esteeemed chower included, and apart form the ceiling, what decor? Perhaps you should point your brother to this group. ;)

[Wilfrid]

As I write, I am weighed down by pan roast clams.  Nevertheless, I am thinking of trying an early evening walk-in for two people at the above establishment, to sit at the bar or communal tables.  I have never eaten there during the rush-hour (i am thinking of, say 6.30 to 7.30), and given its location I may be mad.

Will it be bedlam?  Should I forget about it?

(Edited by Wilfrid at 2:55 pm on Nov. 7, 2001)

[cabrales]

I had an average dinner at Grand Central's Oyster Bar recently.  I sat along the counter area, and was attended to by a waitress who was serving too many guests and appeared pressed and impatient. That being said, I recognize that service is not necessarily an expected feature of the oyster bar.  

(1) Oysters -- 3 Belon (Wild, Maine); 2 Bras d'Or (Nova Scotia); 2 Coromandel (New Zealand); 2 Kumamoto (CA); 1 Malepeque (PEI); 1 Pemaquid (Maine); 1 Penn Cove Flat (Farmed Belons, Washington state) (Prices for these and other oysters ranged from $1.75 through $2.75, for either variety of Belons. There is no oyster platter available.)

Certain oysters sampled were nice -- the wild Belons and the Kumamotos. Specimens from both varieties had an appealing intrinsic sweetness. The wild Belons from Maine were rather dissimilar to French Belons sampled in France. They went well with the slightly sweet cocktail sauce, which did not carry spicy overtones. The mignonette had more stark a taste of vinegar than I had expected.

Most of the other oysters sampled were so-so. In particular, the Malpeques, which I ordinarily like, had an unusual aftertaste (not necessarily due to staleness of the oysters).  There are better places in the city to have oysters.

(2) Nieuwe Maatjes Herring (5.00/Filet)

A single herring fish was presented whole, and raw. The flesh was fine, and was aided by chopped egg, diced chives and onions. I particularly liked the onions, which added a bit of "kick" to the fish. The waitress indicated that the herring had been flown in from Holland. I would not necessarily feel a need to sample this again, although I am glad to have tasted them for the first time.

A promotional brochure offered by the oyster bar indicated: "Widely regarded as the greatest tasting herring on earth. You'll only catch the Nieuwe Maatjes at the Oyster Bar for three weeks starting on or about May 29th. Gone tomorrow."

(3) Oyster Stew (9.45)

Five or six plump Blue Points were included in this light-cream based stew (which was more like soup). The oysters felt relatively "insubstantial", although they were large.  The broth tasted a bit milky, although the paprika tastes were evident as well. Overall, the oyster stew (one of the better-known dishes of the oyster bar) was disappointing.

I had a glass of Domaine G. Millet Sancere 2001 (7.75).  Overall, an average meal.

Potentially interesting dishes included: (1) Caviar sandwich appetizer ($8.95), (2) Poached Wellfleet oysters on wild mushroom with beurre blanc (9.50), (3) Smokehouse sampler (North Atlantic salmon, rainbow truout, sturgeon; 19.95), (4) Texas stone crab claws with mustard mayonnaise (not priced; not available on day of visit; Joe's of Florida was not on the menu), (5) Imperial Balik salmon (9.95), (6) Bouillabaisse (25.95 -- have members sampled this dish?), (7) *Copper River King Salmon Filet, pan-seared (31.95; limited availability), (8) *Pan-seared Copper River wild king salmon filet, horseradish mashed potatoes, wilted spinach, dill & caviar beurre blanc (31.95), (9) Old fashioned fish 'n' chips, (10) Bing cherry tart (5.75), and (11) Green apple or rhubarb sorbet (4.25).

White wines available included: O Leflaive Mersault 1997 ($75; 18.75 per glass); 1/2 J.N. Gagnard "Morgeot" Chassagne Montrachet (54); Domaine Zind Humbrecht "Brand" Riesling 1998 (90).

[jaybee]

Oh Cabrales, your post makes me so sad.  I eat at the Oyster Bar maybe two three times a year and have not in at least six months.  But it always resides in my mind as one of those special places I can go for a pan roast preceded by oysters and clams on the half shell and a good draft beer or crisp white wine.  Your experience, which was mirrored by someone else recently, makes me wonder what has happened there?  

Since I love this kind of food so much, I need to know where else is it better?  I like the Aqua Grill for oysters.  The Ocean Grill has never disappointed with the quality of the shellfish.  City Hall does a nice job, and the fried oysters there are superb.  Who makes a great pan roast?

[cabrales]

jaybee -- Apologies for making you sad. There were many varieties of oysters I did not try and such variation in shipment/arrival schedules that the oyster bar may be fine. I used to eat there every couple of months, and the oysters were somewhat better.

I expect to return to the oyster bar, particularly in view of the Texas stone crab (which I have never sampled; I have only sampled Florida versions).  The waitress indicated Texas stone crab might be available next week (??).

The other oysters available at the time of visit included: Blue Point (Long Island), Box (Long Island -- these can be large), Beau Soleil (New Brunswick), Chedabucto (Nova Scotia), Cranes Neck (NY), Dungeness (Washington State), Duck Island (Long Island), Dutch Isle (Rhode Island), Glidden Point (Maine), Hog Island (Tomales CA), Island Creek (MA), Imperial Eagle (Washington State), Matinecock (Long Island), Moonstone (Rhode Island), North Umberland (Nova Scotia), Newport Cup (Rhode Island), Rasbery Point (PEI), Salt Aire (Nova Scotia), Saint Anne (Nova Scotia), Watch Hill (Rhode Island), Wellfleet (MA) and Westcott Bay (Washington State).

I posted the Aquagrill oyster list in a thread named for that restaurant over the weekend. Aquagrill appears to offer a good selection of British Columbia oysters, with Grand Central having more US East Coast oysters. Based on past experience (no recent visits), Aquagrill has good oysters. I have the Aquagrill wine list, and can post parts of it in which you indicate an interest.  

[jaybee]

jaybee -- Apologies for making you sad.

I appreciate your report.  It's just that when a place you think of as special shows signs of becoming less so, it's sad.  I'll give it a try, though and see for myself.  Until then, I'll placate myself by trying Jinmyo's method of eating ossetra from the jar while driving.

[anil]

.......

(2) Nieuwe Maatjes Herring (5.00/Filet)

A single herring fish was presented whole, and raw. The flesh was fine, and was aided by chopped egg, diced chives and onions. I particularly liked the onions, which added a bit of "kick" to the fish. The waitress indicated that the herring had been flown in from Holland. I would not necessarily feel a need to sample this again, although I am glad to have tasted them for the first time.

A promotional brochure offered by the oyster bar indicated: "Widely regarded as the greatest tasting herring on earth. You'll only catch the Nieuwe Maatjes at the Oyster Bar for three weeks starting on or about May 29th. Gone tomorrow."

.......

The matjes herring without bread ? Had this when we went to

Floriade2002. It is really an acquired taste you know  

Once it's done, it is very difficult to resist. THis first catch does go to the queen, and the popular myth @ GCOB is that the second comes over to GCOB.

[Ron Johnson]

Cabrales,

did you take notes while you were dining or do you have a photographic memory?  Your recall of the varieties of oyster available is astounding.

Also did you dine solo at the Oyster Bar, if so do you find it to be a good place to dine solo?

(No Tommy, you have a pornographic memory, there is a BIG difference.)  

[Steve Plotnicki]

Cabrales - You have to chat up the servers to see what oysters might have come in fresh that morning. As for the food at the Oyster Bar, it's pretty plain. It isn't prepared by top level chefs. Not to deride the abilities of the people who work there but, they haven't staged at Le Divellac. So as long as you go in there with your eyes open to that fact, you can eat a pretty decent meal there. But that means sticking to simple grilled fish. Of course, the Roasts and Pan Roasts are superb and a throwback to a different era, possibly century. But it's not a gastronomic adventure, unless you happen to hit it right with the oysters.

[cabrales]

Steve -- Indeed, I did try to chat up the waitress regarding the appropriate oysters. For the first plate of six, she dismissed (by ignoring) my requests for a recommendation and noted she would choose (I ended up receiving 2 wild Belons, which were good, and 4 average other oysters).  While other "apparent" servers were standing around doing little, the waitress was serving around 8-10 people on her own. As you said, this is no Le Divellec or Goumard, Paris. I miss Marennes and the teeny oysters dubbed Papillon (butterfly) plucked from French waters.  :confused:

On a happier note, I have never been to Pearl Oyster Bar. Do members have input on that establishment?

ron -- On recalling the names of the oysters: (1) I asked for the menu, which appears to be printed daily, (2) each serving came with a little piece of paper appearing to list, in sequence, the included oysters (I kept that list), (3) the oyster varieties were listed on the bill, and (4) I did take notes.  

[Steve Plotnicki]

Cabrales - No you have to sit at the oyster bar and chat up those guys, the ones who shuck the oysters. The waiters and waitresses don't know anything. And I find that they are surly to boot. And the heralded wine list is overrated, although you might find a bottle of high end California chardonnay. One would think they would offer wines that are classic European pairings with oysters like a good Muscadet, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc etc. Another dish I like there very much is the Rice Battered Fried Shrimp w Tartar Sauce. It's perfect for moi.

[cabrales]

Steve -- Thanks; I'll adopt your recommendation on my next visit. In the meantime, Aquagrill awaits. Do you think that D Dagueneau's Pouilly Fume, Cuvee Pur Sang, could match oysters? As I was discussing with Liza during the NYC potluck, I don't like Riesling due to its sweet-ish tones (Jason's sparkling Riseling did not have such tones, happily)  

I agree the wine list is significantly overrated.  For example, in one of Frank Prial's introductory pieces to the 2001 NYT Guide to NYC Restaurants, he noted "[f]ew seafood restaurants, if any [pl--ease -- what about Le Bernardin or Cello leaving aside price considerations], offer the huge selection of white wines to be found at the Oyster Bar . . . ."

[Steve Plotnicki]

Cabrales - I'm not a fan of Pur Sang. I'm more of a purist. And you need to drink a bone dry rielsing, not one with residual sugar. Stay away from the wines of Zind-Humbrecht because they are usually very ripe, i.e. sweet. Try and drink wines from Trimbach as they are austere. Gruner Veltliner might be a good wine for you. Mostly an acid bath. When chilled correctly it goes great with icy oysters. Does Aqua Grill have their list on line?

[cabrales]

Steve -- No, but I have the menu that has the wine list. I'll post excerpts later.

[jaybee]

Recently I have been sipping a very dry gin martini (Beefeater or Bombay regular), straight up with olives as an accompanyment with oysters and clams.  It is a great combination.  The gin brings out the flavors of the oysters and the dry finish sets up the next one.  I find two average size martinis will do for a dozen oysters.  A gin with fewer botanicals works best. (ie, not Saphire or Ten or Tanquerray).

[cabrales]

I had another meal at Grand Central Oyster Bar recently. The oysters were at the same general level, except the Kumamotos were again good. I tried Bluepoints and wild Belons. This time, I sat at the bar area closest to where Oyster Bar employees were shucking. However, it is not practicable to speak with them directly, although they were clearly within view. I asked a server, who again seemed stretched with respect to coverage, and was recommended the Bluepoints.  

I tried the restaurant's caviar sandwich ($8-9) for the first time. Toasted, with a sturgeon caviar grade that fell below Sevruga (expectedly, given the price). There was a generous amount of lower-quality, but not unappealing, caviar and an appropriate amount of diced hard-boiled egg between the pieces of toast. For some reason, the sandwich was average-plus. I drank a Sauvignon Blanc from France by the glass that was average.

As of earlier this week when I visited, the restaurant still offered Copper River Salmon. I had thought we were past the season for that particular item, or very close to it.  

[cabrales]

I had dinner last night at the oyster bar. The meal began with three Cortez Island (British Columbia) oysters ($2.25 each), which were larger than I had anticipated. They had a very matte, almost powdery feel in their interior portion, and were probably not the type of oyster I prefer. I ordered Sancerre 2001, R. Bourgoise, by the glass ($8.25), which was average.

Then came Florida Stone Crab Claws with Mustard Mayonnaise ($37.95). There were about 6-7 medium-sized claws. I like stone crab in general, but the claws last night were only average.

I finished (I appreciate the sequence might appear odd) with Grilled Bras d'Or oysters with Roquefort butter ($10.95). The oysters were very thin and small, although these were the first Bras d'Or I had sampled. The Roquefort was nicely integrated into the melted butter. The dining room team members, whose service was slightly better than the brusque attention normally accorded, made a mistake in also placing an order of fried oysters (these were likely Blue Points or a similar variety). The batter was average-minus only. However, the dish was left for me free of charge.

Other items that momentarily caught my attention on last night's menu were (1) Point Judith Squid (served in a salad with avocado and purple basil vinaigrette ($20.95), (2) Imperial Balik Salmon ($9.95), (3) tilapia filet (I have wondered about this fish), and (4) bouillabaisse ($25.95). There was maple ice cream ($4.75), but I have been on a diet and did not order any.

Overall, an average meal. Note that the area in the Oyster Bar directly facing the entrance has been converted into a decent-looking "wine bar". It appears to be only a marketing gimmick; appetizers from the oyster bar are available at the wine bar.

[HungryChris]

I am an oyster fan who always visits the GCOB when in New York. Recently I have wondered if I should try another place in NYC. I am the type of person who will make a quart of cocktail sauce in the morning and go to Wickford, RI (to Champlins) and pick out my own oysters from their iced counter, put them in a cooler in my trunk and go home with the best of intentions of trying them in many recipies. What usually happens is that I slice up a few lemon wedges, open the lot and wolf them down over the sink instead of dinner that night. I love them so! What I really want to know is: Where can a day tripper get good oysters in NYC on a weekend.

[cabrales]

HungryChris -- The question of good oysters in NY has been one I have been pursuing for a while now. This weekend, perhaps I will go to Pearl Oyster Bar and provide a report (perhaps not, if I am tired). Aquagrill has a decent selection, although I have not visited recently:

http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...&f=4&t=7098&hl=

I believe that Grand Central Oyster Bar has the best Kumamotos, when they are available, however.