New Orleans in March

[sugarpiglet]

Hi,

I am new to the board and I live in the frozen north (Minnesota). DH and I are spending three days in New Orleans in March and I've been trying to figure out where to eat, but I get easily overwhelmed by the choices. I've read nearly every thread on this board and here is my problem: How do I tell if a restaurant is just general fine dining or if it offers traditional NO food? I went to New Orleans a few years ago but I was with friends who were picky eaters. We ate at NOLA, Brigtsen's and The Gumbo Shop, all of which I enjoyed, although I don't recall specifics anymore. I also had terrific red beans and rice at a bar, although my friends wouldn't eat it. DH and I love to try new foods. We also would prefer to eat our meals in the French Quarter and not worry about cabs, streetcars, etc.

Some places I am considering: Redfish Grill, Stella!, Bayona, Acme, Mr. B's. We have three dinners and two lunches, one of which probably will be a muffaletta from Central Grocery after reading about them here.

Comments? Suggestions for a real NO experience? Our airfare and hotel are free so we are OK with a couple of pricier meals.

Thanks.

[PopsicleToze]

There are many good restaurants. I have a personal aversion to Stella! as our first and only visit there was just awful, although it rates very high with locals. I may have to go back and just see if it was an off night, but I just have no desire to go back.

Broussards is always terrific, and the menu is online. http://www.broussards.com/

Consider them, because they are consistently excellent and just a first-class place.

Another place that is a favorite is Begue's restaruant in the Royal Sonesta Hotel. Their website could use some work, but the restaurant is very good. They have a terrific seafood lunch buffet on Fridays. In general buffets aren't very good, but this one is. http://www.sonesta.com/neworleans_royal/pa...sp?pageID=16540

Mr. B's Bistro has excellent gumbo, and I would go there for a nice lunch -- salad, bowl of gumbo & a Bloody Mary

Here's a website with current reviews for New Orleans food. Tom Fitzmorris is the food critic. http://foodfest.neworleans.com/

Some of the ones to skip:

Bella Luna (beautiful setting, but mediocre food)

Court of Two Sisters

Muriel's (Ate there 3X before I X'd them off my list -- they have yet to get their act together, but good location. Overall consensus of friends agrees that the restaurant is just not very good.)

Hope you have a good trip!

[Mayhaw Man]

Hi,

I am new to the board and I live in the frozen north (Minnesota). DH and I are spending three days in New Orleans in March and I've been trying to figure out where to eat, but I get easily overwhelmed by the choices. I've read nearly every thread on this board and here is my problem: How do I tell if a restaurant is just general fine dining or if it offers traditional NO food? Comments? Suggestions for a real NO experience? Our airfare and hotel are free so we are OK with a couple of pricier meals.

Thanks.

Welcome to egullet. Come on down and thaw out and get something to eat. Late March and early April are about as good as it gets weather wise around here (maybe mid October), not too hot but not humid and 40 either.

You mentioned several places I like quite a bit on your list. Redfish Grill is a very dependable spot for lunch or dinner (I much prefer it for lunch) and Mr. B's is good as well (Brennan Family Restaurants might differ in what they serve etc., but whatever it is there is a pretty good chance that it is going to be done right).

I like Bayona, but when I am getting into that catagory of dining I much prefer Peristyle (as I am sure you have seen from my many posts on that venue). You also may want to consider Restaurant August if you are planning on doing a little fine dining. It is currently considered by many to be one of the finer places in the country for big buck dining and I am extremely fond of both the place and of the work that Chef John Besh turns out. (the link is to a media review link-go to Dec. 21 for a review and more info)

I also am pretty crazy about NOLA (yeah, yeah, I know it's Emeril's place-but the food is over the top and it is still a really good (as are all of his New Orleans rests.) place to get an interesting casual meal). Emeril has used it for years as a place to experiment with the concept of over the top, too much of this, too much of that, and let's see what happens kind of place. The food is good, the specials are better, and the desserts are really good. In fact, just going there after another meal for a dessert and a little after dinner drink is a good thing to do and they are glad to have you and happy to serve at the bar if you like (as are most of the places in this town, a great thing if you ask me).

You mentioned a real New Orleans Experience. Well, if you are going to be here on a Friday and want the real deal, go down and eat in the DOWNSTAIRS dining room at Galitoire's. Nothing, and I mean nothing, is more New Orleans than that. You will see some real dinosaurs blowing it out New Orleans style as most of them have been doing most Fridays their entire lives. It is loud and fun. It will not be the quitest fine dining experience you will ever have, but I promise you will enjoy it.

Let us know a little more and we can be more specific. Are you up for fine dining, mid level, casual, etc. There are a number of places in the Warehouse Dist. CBD that you could walk down St Charles and get to if you felt adventuresome. Let us know as there are lots of willing advisers ready to help. One of the great things about New Orleans is that even people who have visited only a time or two develop very strong attachments/feelings about certain places and get stuck in a rut (albeit a very pleasant and tasty rut) so it is always good to get plenty of diverse opinions and there is usually not shortage of them here.

[sugarpiglet]

You mentioned a real New Orleans Experience. Well, if you are going to be here on a Friday and want the real deal, go down and eat in the DOWNSTAIRS dining room at Galitoire's. Nothing, and I mean nothing, is more New Orleans than that. You will see some real dinosaurs blowing it out New Orleans style as most of them have been doing most Fridays their entire lives. It is loud and fun. It will not be the quitest fine dining experience you will ever have, but I promise you will enjoy it.

Let us know a little more and we can be more specific. Are you up for fine dining, mid level, casual, etc. There are a number of places in the Warehouse Dist. CBD that you could walk down St Charles and get to if you felt adventuresome. Let us know as there are lots of willing advisers ready to help. One of the great things about New Orleans is that even people who have visited only a time or two develop very strong attachments/feelings about certain places and get stuck in a rut (albeit a very pleasant and tasty rut) so it is always good to get plenty of diverse opinions and there is usually not shortage of them here.

Would I go to Galitoire's for lunch or dinner? We will be there on a Friday--our trip is March 10-14 but we arrive very late on the 10th unless we can standby an early flight.

Thanks for all the suggestions. To answer your question, we want to have one or maybe two "fine dining" meals and the rest we would prefer mid-level. Casual is OK as long as the food is good. Mainly, we want to eat stuff that is more difficult to get in St. Paul, such as seafood and Cajun food. At home, we tend to prefer small, chef-driven types of places, but on vacation we like to experience the destination a bit. No point in traveling just to do what we do at home.

Also, we like late dinners while on vacation. Is 9 or so a good time to go to restaurants or do people eat earlier?

Edited February 16, 2004 by sugarpiglet (log)

[Mayhaw Man]

Lunch- Dinner is nice but a whole other experience.

Virtually everywhere we are discussing will take reservations for late dinner and some of them kind of specialize in it. As always, it is good to call ahead, but you should have no trouble.

Incidentally, this is a late town. We are kind of on our on time here and generally dinner is late and music is later. There are no closing hours for drinking to speak of and things tend to go until daylight at many places. During the Jazz Festival many clubs have bands scheduled to start (and play 3 full sets) at 3 a.m.

[Comfort Me]

Enjoy! I went last month, and I still haven't goten over the place. I ache for New Orleans -- not just the food...the people, the palm trees, the odd man in the top hat and cape on the St. Charles Streetcar who politely recited poetry to himself. I am pining away.

Galitoire's is an experience you will never forget. Don't miss it if you can help it!

The one thing I will say which will be controversial -- and probably bring me hate mail -- is that I would never again go to the Camelia Grill. We had been told that it was a "don't miss" place, so we went, stood in line for an hour, and then sat down to the most dreadful meal in the dirtiest place I have ever experienced. The waffles are made in advance and reheated on the grill before service. They charge by the cup for inferior coffee. Their grits are watery and flavorless. And the place was just nasty dirty. It led my wife to ask if New Orleans actually had a public health department.

[Mayhaw Man]

I'm kinda with you on Camellia Grill. They have been getting by for years on the fond memories of Tulane students who only ate there when they were loaded.

It's really a shame, because there was a point when I enjoyed eating there because it was all fresh and made to order and also because I like the way that the place looks.

Glad you had fun otherwise.

[sugarpiglet]

Thanks for all the good suggestions. I developed a tentative itinerary and made some reservations. Feel free to offer critiques.

Thursday dinner Peristyle.

Friday lunch Galatoire's. It looks like we wait in line for the downstairs room. Do we just show up and get in line? What about dress?

Friday dinner Red Fish Grill.

Saturday lunch Muffaletta from Central Grocery.

Saturday dinner Stella!

We are not big breakfast people on vacation, so I didn't bother with breakfast. We also might have a change in plans and arrive Wednesday night in time for dinner, in which case I am thinking either NOLA or Mr. B's, depending on where we can get in. I also might have dessert at NOLA one time because I recall some happy dessert moments from my first (and last) visit.

We leave at the crack of dawn Sunday (*&^%&&* frequent-flier rules), so no meals that day.

Thanks again. I will post reviews when I return.

[davebr]

Personnaly, I would have the Red Fish Grill be my swing table for wednesday night. Go to NOLA for dinner on friday. All of your other selections are perfect for staying in the French Quarter. Another thing you might want to consider is dinner or lunch at The Bistro Masion De Ville. Patric is by far the quintessential New Orleans Maitre'd. You would be amazed at the food put out by what seems to be a 10 by 10 foot kitchen. If you have trouble getting a table at NOLA, email me Im sure I can help. For fun, there is an antique culinary store in the french quarter with some rediculous foodie antiques, I think it is on Royal st, the name escapes me but it is french and it starts with an L. If you like wine, go to the Vieux Carre wine store next to K-Pauls and ask to see the back room, just dont go with a buzz. Snug Harbor has great live jazz with 2 shows each night. If you slip the doorman some money he'll let you stay thru both preformances. Oh Yeah, dont bet money with anyone that wants to tell you "where you got dem shoes".

[bleachboy]

Friday lunch Galatoire's. It looks like we wait in line for the downstairs room. Do we just show up and get in line? What about dress?

Yep, just show up. I would recommend a jacket for men, but they have seated me without one. Show up a little bit before the posted opening time, too, if you want first seating downstairs. Lunch on Friday at Galatoire's is a real hoot. You'll be glad you went. Society ladies in ostrich feather hats and Chanel suits everywhere! Be sure to order some soufleed potatoes ... yum!

[Comfort Me]

Even if you aren't breakfast people, you really should go to Cafe du Monde in the French Market. It was actually an everyday event for us. The cafe au lait is pretty good (one day the milk tasted a tad bit scortched) and I couldn't get enough of it, and the beignets were almost, but not quite, better than sex. (Which is exactly how New Orlinians, er, New Orleanians, um, People in New Orleans like it!)

Oh -- and I would plan on Central Grocery for at least a snack sandwhich much earlier in your trip. "Cuz if you are like everyone else, you are going to wast to return for more. (Many people buy one on the way to the airport and eat it during that horrible 1 1/2 hour mandated wait!)

One tip: If there are touristy grills or "local eats" places you are planning to go to, call ahead. We had read lovely things about the Hummingbird Grill in a guidebook, and when my son and I walked there for lunch, we found that it was an abandoned building. (But then we walked to see what we could find and happened upon La Boulangerie Bakery on St. Charles, I think the 700 block. Without a doubt the very best iced cafe au lait I have ever had in my life. I have had more than one dream about it! Beans roasted to an almost chocolaty perfection, brewed strong to accomodate melting ice, and whole milk that provided just the right mouth-feal without sticking to the teeth. I think I'm going to cry, now. (I've probably PM'd Brooks with this place, but I can't help but repeat myself.)

Enjoy!!!!!

[Rachel Perlow]

You can get in an additional lunch if you just take that muffaletta from Central Grocery to go home with you. They keep real well, and make a great airplane lunch on your way home, so buy two (one for the plane, one for lunch on Monday) and travel with them in your carry-on bag. While you're at Central Grocery, buy a jar of their olive salad and you'll be able to make an approximation of their muffaletta a month later with that and some provisions from a local Italian deli. They also have the best prices on local spice blends and a huge collection of hot sauces (much better prices than at the French/Farmers Market across the street).

So, now you have another lunch slot to fill, Yay!

I say, Mr. B's for some of their amazing barbecued shrimp.

(Edit: Just noting above post, great minds think alike)

Edited February 18, 2004 by Rachel Perlow (log)

[sugarpiglet]

They keep real well, and make a great airplane lunch on your way home, so buy two (one for the plane, one for lunch on Monday) and travel with them in your carry-on bag.

Would they keep all that time without refrigeration??

[Mayhaw Man]

Would they keep all that time without refrigeration??

Sure. Bread, various kinds of preserved italian sausages, olive mix, etc. Pretty much everything in them is preserved already and they travel pretty well.

Sounds like a pretty good dining schedule you have lined up for yourself. Have fun!

[Rachel Perlow]

Well, we bought ours the morning before our afternoon flight, and didn't eat any of it until the next day, since we ended up not eating it on the plane. I think it tastes better after it marinates for a day, the oil gets absorbed into the bread, etc., but I would refridgerate it when you got home, and if you have a mini-fridge in your hotel room, you could keep it in there overnight.

[sumac]

We were just there the weekend after Christmas for a short get away from the cold deal (also in MN). Thanks to all the advice from eGullet, our food was fabulous. Our top place, hands down, was Upperline. I would not miss it. Jacques'-Imo was closed, but I would go there also. We had a great lunch at Mr. B's (gumbo, BBQ shrimp and Bloodys) and also Sunday Jazz Brunch there. We love that place. We had another wonderful dinner at NOLA, but dinner at Brightsen's was very disappointing. We did mid afternoon snacks of a beer and oysters at Acme and shared a Bloody and a bowl of Jambalya at Coops. Don't miss that either. Breakfast one morning was sharing a mufeletta at Central Grocery. Get there early, the line is long. We love lots of little tastes so we can experience it all. I would go back in a flash if I could and again graze my way through that wonderful city. Lucky you!

Sumac

[Mayhaw Man]

Sumac,

Thanks for the report. Sounds like you ate your way to a good time.

What happened at Brigsten's? I don't think I have ever had a bad meal there, and am constantly telling people that their early bird is one of the best deals in town (2nd only to lunch at Commander's Palace-one of the best dining deals in the US).

[sumac]

Mayhaw Man,

Our whole experience at Brigtsens was okay, but nothing special compared to that wonderful Joanne at Upperline, the way she treated us, her hospitality, her fabulous food. We ate dinner at Brigtsen's on Friday, December 26th, so they might have all been "holidayed-out." We arrived with a gift for Marna and Frank, a special bottle of wine, gave it to Marna, she thanked us, seated us and said she'd be over later to talk to us. Although she was around, she never even acknowledged us again, and when we asked to say goodbye to her, we were told she had gone home. The food was good, very solid, not great. The service is a team approach and was not always the smoothest, rather inattentive at times. I will admit that our mediocre experience there was only magnified by the amazing experience we had at Upperline. We arrived with the same gift of wine for Joanne and you would have thought we were Santa Claus. She was super friendly and attentive all night, kept sending out extra courses for us to taste and even brought the chef to our table to meet us. By the end of the evening we felt like family. Ahhhhh, southern hospitality and definitely the best food of the trip. We had a great weekend and can hardly wait to come back.

A funny part of our trip: we took a taxi to Jacque's-Imo and arrived at 5:00 all prepared to stand in line (with a drink from the bar next door). Oops, closed for the Holidays. After much discussion, we had the taxi take us to Nola and became first in line for one of the six seats at the bar as the restaurant was fully booked, but we had a great meal and loved eating at the bar, so a near disaster became a huge success.

[Mayhaw Man]

My children would rather eat at the bar at NOLA than anyplace in New Orleans. It may have something to do with the constant stream of mini treats from everybody for the boys, but I could be wrong.

[sumac]

I think the bar at NOLA's is the best table in town, but with only 6 seats, it was already taken at 5:30 by us and the 2 couples who arrived 30 seconds after we did. They also have a "kitchen" bar which faces the kitchen, but it is by reservation only and was fully booked. If I needed a sure thing, that is where I would book a reservation. Any reaction from any one to my Brigtsen experience?

[bjgeraci]

I don't know how much time you'll have, but I always enjoyed the New Orleans School of Cooking on the same block as NOLA. It was a 2-3 hour cooking class usually composed of gumbo, jambalaya, bread pudding, and pralines. You get the recipes and it's usually led by an entertaining person, for $25 per person. It also has a store where you can buy some spices and goodies to go.

Too bad you're not going to be in town the following weekend; that's the time of the year where New Orleans puts out a lot of St. Joseph's altars. It comes from the big Sicilian heritage in New Orleans. Many years ago in Sicily, there was a drought and a famine and the people prayed to St. Joseph for relief---in exchange they would erect altars in his honor. Needless to say, the rains came, the famine was over, and the altars are built even to this day.

I know that you're not breakfast eaters, but in New Orleans we can run the gamut from Cafe DuMonde (near Jackson Square), La Marquise (my favorite on Chartres near Jackson Square) to Brennan's on Royal, where breakfast can easily run $50 per person and will be enough food for lunch and about 1/2 a dinner. A cheap place in the CBD that I like for breakfast is Mother's (on Poydras & Tchoupitoulas) which has an early bird special $4.25---including coffee or OJ. I particularly love their biscuits there. They specialize in debris (Roast beef pieces in its own gravy), and baked ham with the wonderful charred exterior.

Finally, if you get tired of "New Orleans" food and you just want a sandwich or a burger, I'd like to recommend Cafe Maspero's on Decatur. It's always crowded, and it's a place that a lot of locals like.

[davebr]

Crazy enough, I had the some of the same problems at Brightsens. I brought my parents there for dinner. They had given our table away---no we were not late. My dad is a very uncomprimising man. They took a drink order from us while we waited for a table and after 45 minutes we never got it. They never brought me my salad course until the entrees showed up, then insisted that I have my salad "europeon style" after the entree. Come on, if you make a mistake just admitt it and move on, dont lie to me assuming that I dont know any better. Frank's food was great. They were out of a couple of things(isnt everyone on a saturday night), but they probably weren't 45 minutes ago. My guess is Frank has some family working for him. Which is noble. He is definitly the star and they cant live up to his level of skill. What ya gonna do?

[sugarpiglet]

I don't know how much time you'll have, but I always enjoyed the New Orleans School of Cooking on the same block as NOLA. It was a 2-3 hour cooking class usually composed of gumbo, jambalaya, bread pudding, and pralines.

Another friend recommended this class and we did sign up for Thursday. I love to cook, and I am looking forward to all the storytelling.

[Comfort Me]

They keep real well, and make a great airplane lunch on your way home, so buy two (one for the plane, one for lunch on Monday) and travel with them in your carry-on bag.

Would they keep all that time without refrigeration??

The staff at Central Grocery quote a 20-hour shelf life unrefrigerated.