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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, July 4, 2007

Super Scoops, Janet Fletcher

New ice cream recipes and machines make it easy to experiment with fanciful concoctions

Recipes:

Vietnamese Coffee Ice Cream

Fresh Peach Ice Cream

Butter Pecan Ice Cream

Vanilla Ice Cream, Philadelphia Style

Fudge Cookies for Ice Cream Sandwiches

Web-only recipes:

Peppermint Ice Cream, adapted from "A Passion for Ice Cream" by Emily Luchetti

Cheesecake Ice Cream with Blueberry Sauce, adapted from "The Perfect Scoop" by David Lebovitz

Straciatella (Italian-style Chocolate Chip Ice Cream), adapted from "The Perfect Scoop" by David Lebovitz

Scoop Shops, Kacie Ratner

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

When life gives you melons, make a summer salad

Recipe:

Charentais Melons with Candied Walnuts, Watercress & Vanilla Bean Vinaigrette

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

“Mastering the Grill”, by Andrew Schloss and David Joachim

Recipe:

Turkey Fajitas with Guacamole Vinaigrette

What’s New:

  • Fra’Mani mortadella
  • Restaurant Opening: Citrine is a new restaurant from Safeway, in Redwood City
  • ”Ratatouille” – the book
  • Food Conscious: Yukon River salmon
  • Creamy new mascarpone from Crave Brothers of Wisconsin

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Ice cream sandwiches are tasted, the winner is from Lucerne (Safeway, again!), sadly the It’s-It only scores in the middle of the pack

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

The birria that didn’t get the goat

Recipes:

California Birria

Mexican Rice

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Sophisticated interior meets stylish food at Osha Thai in Cow Hollow

(This review appeared Sunday, July 1, 2007)

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Food outclasses service, décor at Chez TJ in Mountain View

The Inside Scoop

Charles Phan and Loretta Keller will run the café at the California Academy of Sciences when the rebuilt museum opens next year . . . rising star chef James Syhabout is going back to Manresa . . . Pacific Catch benefits from iPhone ads . . . frozen yogurt bars . . . and more.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Hot off the grid, Tara Duggan

Solar ovens utilize nature’s rays for energy-efficient, everyday cooking – even in foggy San Francisco

Recipes:

Baby Beet Salad with Feta, Walnuts & Arugula

Buttermilk Cornbread Peach & Blackberry Cobbler

Rice Pilaf

Wheatless Apricot Cake

Shrimp & Lemon Skewers

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

How to play with a peach

Recipe:

Shakin’ Lemongrass Turky & Green Beans with Peaches

Chef’s Night In, Dabney Gough

Chef Vanessa Dang of Vanessa’s Bistro in Berkeley

Recipe:

Ginger-Soy Marinated Salmon Salad

What’s New:

  • Restaurant Openings: Nick’s Cove on Tomales Bay, Le P’tit Laurent in Glen Park, Sushi Solano in Albany
  • Restaurants for Bastille Day
  • Market Watch: Peaches and corn

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Middle East Co. tops pita bread picks

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

“My Bombay Kitchen”, by Niloufer Ichaporia King

Recipe:

Fish Moli (Fish in Coconut Milk)

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Quirky charm, homey cuisine at Café Saint Rose in Santa Rosa

(This review appeared Sunday, July 8, 2007)

Dining Out, Amanda Gold

Less is more at Ginza in Tiburon

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Alamo Square offers solid seafood choices in Fillmore Street in San Francisco

The Inside Scoop

Another new pub near AT&T Park . . . Zuppa’s owner to go back to the kitchen . . . changes at Elite Café . . . update on Plumpjack Group . . . and more.

Between Meals, blog by Michael Bauer

About our reviews

Letters to Food

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Slices of summer, Amanda Gold

Seasonal Cook: Crisps, shortcakes, clafoutis and other fruit desserts are the superstars of the season

Recipes:

Vanilla-Scented Blueberry & Nectarine Crisp

Marbled Chocolate Cherry Clafouti

Cinnamon Shortcakes with Plum Compote & Cinnamon Crème Fraiche

Peach & Mascarpone Tart with Oatmeal Cookie Crust

Gadget junkie puts devices to the test, Stacy Finz

The Accidental Vegetarian, Amanda Berne

Soups to chill when it sizzles

Recipe:

Avocado Soup with Cucumber, Melon & Mint

What’s New:

  • Restaurant Openings: Palmetto in Cow Hollow, Frjtz on Valencia, Laiola in the Marina
  • New Book: “Healthy Community Cookbook” from the Bayview-Hunter Point based group Youth Envision
  • Fair trade, organic coffee from Sundance Coffee Company
  • Market Watch: Tomatoes! Also corn, beans and zucchini

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Panel tests fresh mango salsa, Whole Foods and Mollie Stone’s are winners

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

“Adventures of an Italian Food Lover’, by Faith Heller Willinger

“Cucina del Sole”, by Nancy Harmon Jenkins

Recipes:

Spaghettini with Swordfish Ragu

Lemon & Garlic Chicken

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Hawaii’s many cuisines coexist in one bowl

Recipes:

Saimin

Winnie’s Somen Salad

Sesame Salad Dressing

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

It’s high time to rediscover the redone Café Majestic in San Francisco

(This review appeared Sunday, July 15, 2007)

Dining Update, Amanda Gold

Italian chef focuses on the tried and true at Ristorante Fabrizio in Larkspur

Dining Out, Carol Ness

Riva Cucina wades into restaurant business in Berkeley

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

El Dorado Kitchen caters to all seasons in Sonoma

The Inside Scoop

Donna Scala to open new San Francisco restaurant, plus more around the country . . . Bar Tartine pastry chef moves to Manresa . . . SF chefs Traci Des Jardins and Chris Cosentino will compete on the Food Network’s “The Next Iron Chef” show starting in October . . . and more.

About our reviews

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, July 25, 2007

The dish on Los Angeles, Michael Bauer

10 meals, 5 days -- and too many valets and VIPs to count

Capsule reviews of:

  • BLD
  • Cut
  • Spago
  • Hatfield's
  • Patina
  • Jar
  • Pizzeria Mozza
  • Providence
  • La Terza
  • Lucques

Seafood of the Season, Olivia Wu

Going wild for white sea bass

Recipes:

White Sea Bass in Escabeche

White Sea Bas Tacos

Peruvian Tiradito of White Sea Bass

Seasonal Cook, Olivia Wu

Forget diamonds; give stone fruit

Recipes:

Grilled Peach Panzanella

Roasted Chioggia Beets with Nectarine Juices & Marjoram

Green Bean & Santa Rosa Plum Salad

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Starbucks sweeps iced coffee taste-off

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Change of pace, and ribsticking fare at Napa’s BarbersQ

(This review appeared Sunday, July 22, 2007)

The Inside Scoop

Affordable, healthful dinners to go in Berkeley . . . Burritoeater.com nearing 500th review . . . and more.

Letters to Food

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, August 1, 2007

Revisiting the caprese, Janet Fletcher

Seasonal Cook Tomato Days: Italy’s classic salad inspires other summer dishes

Recipes:

Tomato Bread Salad with Burrata

Bruschetta with Slow-Roasted Tomatoes, Mozzarella & Basil

Spaghetti with Spicy Cherry Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella & Basil

Caprese Tower with Pesto

Marinated Bocconcini with Cherry Tomatoes

Fresh Tomato Risotto with Mozzarella & Basil

Food Conscious, Carol Ness

Pastured eggs catching on

Chef’s Night In, Jane Turks

Chef Alison Barakat, a.k.a. Bakesale Betty, riffs on a picnic favorite

Recipe:

Bakesale Betty’s Fried Chicken Sandwich

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Plenty of lemons in sorbet tasting, the highest scorer was Sorbetto Classico

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Essencia’s upscale Peruvian fare is hit-and-miss, on Gough Street in San Francisco

(This review appeared Sunday, July 29, 2007)

Dining Out, Jennifer Tomaro

Smokin Oakie’s BBQ Joint in Pleasanton gets to the meat of the matter

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

A tip of the Chapeau to chef Philippe Gardelle, Chapeau on Clement Street

The Inside Scoop

Hotel Palomar and the Fifth Floor restaurant for sale . . . Press Club, a wine tasting room featuring six wineries is planned for Yerba Buena Lane . . . Town Hall/Salt House team plans to open a Napoletana style pizzeria . . . The Art Institute of California will launch a culinary program next March . . . and more.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, August 8, 2007

Sweet on tomatoes, Carol Ness

Seasonal Cook Tomato Days: Oliveto pastry chef, Jenny Raven, shares her secrets for uncommon desserts

Recipes:

Mascarpone Budino with Sungold Tomato Compote

Walnut Ice Cream with Brandywine Caramel Sauce

Tomato Sugarplums

Scrape together a simple granita, Casey Ellis

Recipes:

Watermelon Lime Granita

Lemon Mint Granita

Ginger Maple Granita

Raspberry Granita

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Breaking bread with bakers in the shadow of Mt. Vesuvius

Recipes:

Pane e Pomodoro (Savory Tomato Salad on Bread)

Pappa al Pomodoro with Basil or Arugula

What’s New:

Restaurant Opening: Spruce in Presidio Heights

Marin-French Cheese Company sweeps annual awards


Rancho Gordo’s new “Gay Caballero” hot sauce

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Two ways to dress up fish for company

Recipes:

Broiled Fish with Salsa Fresca & Rice

Broiled Fish with Israeli Couscous Pilaf & Corn

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

Tres Leches cake goes one better

Recipes:

Pastel de Cuatro Leches (Four-Milks Cake)

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Slices and sips of Italy as Mission’s chic Bar Bambino

(This review appeared Sunday, August 5, 2007)

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

New chef elevates Absinthe in San Francisco

Dining Update, Tara Duggan

Eclectic Doce Lunas satisfies in Sonoma county

Dining Out, Mandy Erickson

Chef marries Moroccan flavors with California accents at vibrant Zitune in Los Altos

The Inside Scoop

More projects set for Village Pub Group . . . Bistro Zare closed in Napa . . . Foothill Grille opens in Napa . . . Suppenkuche remodeling . . . and more.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Chef's Night In, Karola Saekel

Eggs first for Chow chef

Recipes:

Clarified Butter

Plain Omelet

Very Important Breakfast Potatoes

Chowder the West Coast way, Georgeanne Brennan

Summer soups draw from the garden and the sea

Recipes:

Corn Chowder with Roasted Red Peppers

Clam Chowder

Salmon Chowder with Tarragon

Southwestern-Style Red Chowder

The Baker, Flo Braker

Bake a mix-and-match cake

Recipe:

Summer's Fruit & Cornmeal Cake

Cook's Books, Amanda Gold

Building a better salad

Recipe:

BLT Chicken Salad with Ranch Dressing

Champion pizzaiolo seeks oven, Carol Ness

"The Bay Area's own Tony Gemignani went to Naples, the birthplace of pizza, and came home the world champion Neapolitan pizza maker - beating every Italian contender in the very city where pizza was born."

Seafood: Abalone in Half Moon Bay, Olivia Wu

"In Half Moon Bay harbor, there's a twofer going on with abalone. Doug Hayes is selling live, farmed abalone from his boat."

Meat Beat: Piggybacking on the salumi trend, Carol Ness

"Boccalone is the new retail operation from Chris Cosentino and Mark Pastore, who are producing the same kinds of salumi that has starred on the menu at their Noe Valley restaurant, Incanto."

Taster's Choice, Carol Ness

"Athenos comes out atop pita chip heap"

Sonoma County farm trails weekend

"Sonoma County farms will give visitors a chance to meet the people and animals behind their products on the first Weekend Along Farm Trails, Sept. 29 and 30."

Shopping Cart, Victoria McGinley

Peppery Popcorn

New Markets, Tara Duggan

Avedano's in Bernal Heights

New Markets, Carol Ness

Capay Valley Farm Shop

Benefits

Taste of Marin...Greek Festival...The facts on fish

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Sonoma's Harvest Moon is a welcoming addition

(This review appeared Sunday, August 12, 2007)

Dining Update, Carol Ness

Fresh sushi stars at Alameda's Angel Fish

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Brick thinks big with daring combinations

Between Meals, Michael Bauer

Readers respond to cocaine discussion on Michael Bauer's blog

The Inside Scoop

Embarcadero to get Peruvian restaurant...New chef for Campton Place...Yoga power...New Grand Cafe chef...Big changes at Jardiniere

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Green Days, Olivia Wu

Gardeners, cooks glean fresh ideas from a downtown rooftop herb garden

Recipes:

Roasted Vegetable Soup

Green Gazpacho with Sorrel & Lemon Verbena

Rooftop Cilantro Pesto

Lemon Verbena Crème Brulee

Shiso Sushi

Garlic-Chile Rib Roast in a Thyme Nest

Magrut (Kaffir) Lime Leaf Cake with Garden Flowers (Web-only recipe)

Seafood by the Season, Olivia Wu

Northwest’s mussel beach

Recipes:

Simple Roast Mussels

Golden Mussels

Accidental Vegetarian, Amanda Berne

Getting saucy without heat

Recipes:

Pasta con Salsa Cruda

Penne with Basil Cream

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Vanilla non-dairy frozen desserts, Whole Soy is the winner

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Witty Spork follows through on flavor, too on Valencia Street

(This review appeared Sunday, August 19, 2007)

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Oakland’s Pearl has lost its luster

Dining Out, Karola Saekel

Unique French dinners at Post Meridian @ the Kensington Bistro

The Inside Scoop

New wine bar openings . . . Buca di Beppo to close for remodeling . . . Kuleto to open two San Francisco restaurants in 2008 . . . renovations at Jardiniere . . . Fifth Floor is sold . . . and more.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, August 29, 2007

Snack attack, Stacy Finz

With a new law and schools cracking down on junk food, what’s left for kids to eat?

Recipes:

Crunchy Vegetable Aram Sandwiches

Banana Licuado

Fruit Smoothie

Web only recipe: Sweet Potato Biscuits

The Baker, Flo Braker

Kid-hearty and healhful

Recipes:

Fig-Quinoa Breakfast Bars

Dried Fruit Crumble Squares

The Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

Plum-perfect summer cakes

Recipes:

German Plum Cake

Plum Cake II

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Lunch meat tasting, turns up turkeys, sliced packaged turkey is tasted, Organic Praire and Diestel are top scorers

Cook’s Books, Victoria McGinley

“Allergy-free Cookbook”, by Alice Sherwood

Recipes:

Leek & Butternut Squash Soup

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Mexico DF shows promise, but ultimately disappoints, on Steurt Street in San Francisco

(This review appeared Sunday, August 26, 2007)

Dining Out, Tara Duggan

Flavors sing at Popol Vuh, Yucatecan restaurant in the Mission

Dining Update, Miriam Morgan

Capellini still exudes pizzazz and polish in San Mateo

The Inside Scoop

Monte Cristo Café to open in Embarcadero 4 . . . in Palo Alto, St. Michael’s Alley will relocate and Calafia Café and Market a Go-Go will open . . . Chefs Cookoff benefit for Afterschool Alliance . . . and more.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, September 5, 2007

Chicken and Egg

We don’t care which came first – the chicken or the egg – but both are at the core of cooking, in restaurant kitchens and at home. Today’s Food section explores some of the latest trends in these two indispensable ingredients, from humanely raised birds to slow-cooked eggs.

Food Conscious, Carol Ness

Raising poultry the new-old way

Restaurant chickens come home to roost, Amanda Gold

Recipes:

My Dad’s Best-Ever Roasted Chicken

Creamy Chicken Masala

Wood Tavern’s Pan-Roasted Chicken with Breadcrumbs

Sesame Chicken Drumsticks

Bistro Luneta’s Chicken Adobo

JW’s Grilled Chicken

Chicken Curry

Bay Area chefs take a crack at slow-cooked eggs, Tara Duggan

Recipes:

Baby Romaine Hearts Salad with Tempura Egg

Garlic Chips

Egg Methods

What’s New:

Openings: Supersize supermarkets
Also Open: Tinderbox sustainable food in Bernal Heights
Haute Caffeine: Peet’s precious Panama Esmeralda
Breaking Bread: Who’s got Challa
Market Watch: Apples, pears & figs

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Egg Beaters beat out other egg substitutes

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

West African twist on chicken stew pleases parents, kids

Recipes:

Arugula & Tomato Fritatta

West-African Inspired Chicken Stew with Mashed Sweet Potato

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Ducca brings back the allure of hotel dining at the Westin San Francisco Market Street

(This review appeared Sunday, August 2, 2007)

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Scene trumps food at Pleasant Hill Left Bank

Dining Out, Amanda Gold

Goood Frikin’ Chicken, but also much more in the Mission

The Inside Scoop

New executive chef at PlumpJack Café . . . Sutra to close . . . Limon to open second location . . . and more.

Benefits

Recipe Clarification: Plum Cake II

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Secrets of great home cooks, Janet Fletcher

Gifted Bar Area food lovers open their kitchens and recipe files

Recipes:

Susan Abbanat’s Barley, Lentil & Fennel Salad

Susan Abbanat’s Shaved Celery & Sweet Pepper Salad with Watercress, Pecorino & Mint

Ruth Begell’s Roasted Feta with Olives & Thyme

Bedig Margossian’s labne Sandwiches

Bedig Margossian’s Grilled Flatiron Steak with Roasted Summer Vegetables

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Sweet thoughts for Rosh Hashanah

Recipes:

Polish Apple Cake

Sephardic Cinnamon-Ginger Chicken with a Cornucopia of Grapes

Baby Greens with Apples, Honey-Balsamic Vinaigrette & Sesame-Phyllo Wafers

Web only recipe: Ruth Begell's Summer Vegetable Frittata

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Whole wheat tortillas fail to win over panelists, Whole Foods 365 Organic and Buenatural are the leaders

Cook’s Books, Amanda Gold

“Aromas of Aleppo”, by Poopa Dweck, Sephardic cooking of Syria

Recipe:

Tamarind-Stewed Meatballs

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Painstakingly re-created Nick’s Cove is worth the wait on Tomales Bay

(This review appeared Sunday, September 9, 2007)

Dining Out, Mandy Erickson

Tried-and-true Thai best at Citrus & Spice in San Rafael

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Revamped Bacar still having growing pains in San Francisco

The Inside Scoop

A. Sabella’s to close after 87 years . . . Rick Bayless to bring Frontera Fresca to Macy’s Union Square . . . Chow to open new location in Danville . . . and more.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Meaty Alternatives, Amanda Berne

Chefs find winning ways to cook seitan, tempeh and tofu

Recipes:

Buffalo Girls

Mock Aioli

Firefly Seitan Italian Sausage

Maverick’s Pan-Fried Tempeh

Tempeh Picadillo Empanadas

Tempeh Picadillo

Mint Mojo

Alex Arguellos’ Pickled Red Onion

Food Conscious, Carol Ness

Farmers burning out on market life

A feast for the harvest moon, Olivia Wu

Recipe:

Popia

What’s New:

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Aloo gobi, just like Mom makes

Recipes:

Aloo Gobi

Gemelli Pasta with Chicken & Arugula

Restaurants

Dining Out

Bargain Bites, 107 mini-reviews

(This review appeared Sunday, September 16, 2007)

Dining Out, Karola Saekel

La Finestra focuses on Sicilian flavors in Lafayette

Dining Update, Miriam Morgan

Berkeley’s Venezia continues to satisfy

The Inside Scoop

New chef at Rose Pistola . . . changes on Belden Place . . . airport dining . . . and more.

Benefits

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, September 26, 2007

The Magic of Ginger, Marlene Sorosky Gray

Recipes:

Asian Ginger Chicken Salad

Ginger Spice Cornbread with Ginger Honey Butter

Sauerbraten with Gingersnap Gravy

Very Gingery Gingerbread Bundt Cake with Caramel Glaze

Baked Ginger Apple Pancake

Gingerbread Roll with Lemon Cream

Triple Ginger Triangle Cookies (Web-only recipe)

Cafes feed need for play dates & lattes, Karen Solomon

Seafood by the Season, Olivia Wu

A hotbed for oysters

Recipe:

Cream-Free Oyster Chowder

What’s New:

Food Conscious, Janet Fletcher

Dairies unite to set safety standards for raw-milk cheese

East to West, Linda Furiya

Two ways to coax eggplant haters from their shells

Recipes:

Lightly Vinegared Eggplant

Eggplant and Ginger Soy Sauce

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Farina needs marinating to realize its full potential, in San Francisco

(This review appeared Sunday, September 23, 2007)

Dining Update, Tara Duggan

Relocated Tajine as tempting as ever in San Francisco

Dining Out, Mandy Erickson

Small plates a big hit at Spasso in San Carlos

The Inside Scoop

1300 On Fillmore to open next month . . . change of venue for Slow Food Nation . . . Roosevelt Tamale Parlor closed for renovations . . . and more.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, October 3, 2007

A Pizza Odyssey, Michael Bauer

Michael Bauer launches his quest to find the Bay Area's best pies with Pizza Friday, a weekly multimedia feature on his blog. But first he samples some of the nation's best.

One man’s attempt to perfect the art of home pizza, Jon Bonné

Recipe:

Jon Bonné’s Pizza

Chef’s Night In, Jane Tunks

Chef Brad Levy of Firefly

Recipe:

Brad’s Mom’s Chicken with a Mushroom White Wine Sauce

So you think you can cook?

Top Chef? Iron Chef? They've got nothing on us. With Thanksgiving just around the corner, we're firing up The Chronicle's Turkey Training Camp. And we need you for our Turkey Team Cook-Off.

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Victoria McGinley

Testing local pizzeria pies, eight local chains were tested

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Two simple sidekicks round out weeknight suppers

Recipes:

Grilled Chicken with Tortellini Pasta Salad

Brown Rice Risotto-Pilaf

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

Autumnal salad marries quail and the love fruit, from Luka’s Taproom and Lounge in Oakland

Recipe:

Pomegranate-Glazed Quail with Frisee and Brussels Sprout Leaves

UC Berkeley film festival spotlights food, farming

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Butterfly Bistro offers bold take on Vietnamese, in the Tanforan Mall in San Bruno

(This review appeared Sunday, September 30, 2007)

Dining Update, Amanda Gold

Jeanty at Jack’s loses some of its spark, on Sacramento Street

The Inside Scoop

Fork chef to open a new restaurant on Oakland’s Auto Row . . . Frisee to open in the Castro . . . new chef at Campton Place . . . new owners for Baraka . . . new owners for PJ Steak in Yountville . . . and more.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, October 10, 2007

Fired Up Over Wood Ovens, Olivia Wu

Outdoor cooking builds community while keeping traditions alive

Recipes:

Sourdough Starter

Bean Ragout with Toasted Breadcrumbs

Walnut Sourdough Bread

Putting a wood fired oven to the test, Carol Ness

The hottest items on a restaurant’s wish list, Amanda Gold, Victoria McGinley

Breaking Ramadan’s fast with a taste of home, Ben Hubbard

Recipe:

Yemeni Kahsa

Pizza of the Week, Michael Bauer

Gialina in Glen Park

So you think you can cook

Enter the Turkey Team Cook-Off

What’s New:

Desserts
Iron Chef Watch
Openings: Craig’s Place, La Farine, Sultan
Market Report: pumpkins, and more

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

O.J. with calcium lacks backbone

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Spanish and California cuisine blend well at Laiola in the Marina

(This review appeared Sunday, October 7, 2007)

Dining Out, Carol Ness

Berkeley’s Hot Pot Spot, Zabu Zabu

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Refined menu brings Bong Su into balance in San Francisco

The Inside Scoop

Kuleto is updating restaurants . . . Slow Club update . . . and more.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Alice in the Heartland, Amanda Gold

The Bay Area is well acquainted with the culinary philosophy of the Chez Panisse founder, but how does it play outside California?

Cook’s Books, Amanda Gold

“The Art of Simple Food: Notes, Lessons, and Recipes from a Delicious Revolution”, by Alice Waters

Recipes:

Chicken Legs Braised with Tomatoes, Onions & Garlic

Poached Egg with Curly Endive Salad

Brussels Sprouts Gratin

Turkey cooks, stay tuned

Winners are being selected for Turkey Training Camp

Seasonal Cook, Georgeanne Brennan

Persimmon’s, Enjoy a fall fruit’s split personality

Recipes:

Grilled Persimmons

Persimmon Bread Pudding

Persimmon & Melon Salad

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Frozen, breaded, cooked chicken, Manor-House is top scorer with only 61 points

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

Autumn’s pumpkin parade

Recipes:

Pumpkin Pickles

Sweet Marinated Ancho Chiles Stuffed with Pumpkin

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Wide-ranging menu satisfies at the long- awaited Spruce in San Francisco

(This review appeared Sunday, October 14. 2007)

Dining Out, Tara Duggan

San Francisco’s cozy Tinderbox shows promise

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Acclaimed Fleur de Lys loses a little magic

Pizza of the Week

Dopo in Oakland

The Inside Scoop

Danko said to be eyeing Ghirardelli Square location . . . update on the fire at Original Joe’s . . . changes in Napa and Santa Rosa . . . and more.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Imbibing izakaya style, Ben Narasin

Japan’s sake and small-plate pubs are popping up from the South Bay to S.F.

A culinary pioneer’s epic journey, Janet Fletcher

Profile of Cecilia Chiang, who founded the famed Mandarin restaurant in San Francisco and has written a combination memoir and cookbook

Recipes:

Hot & Sour Cabbage (Suan La Bai Cai)

Steamed Rice-Powder Ribs (Mi Fen Zhen Pai Gu)

Accidental Vegetarian, Amanda Berne

Falling for roasted vegetables

Recipe:

Spicy Autumn Vegetables & Lentils

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Chocolate chip cookies from supermarket bakeries, most score poorly

East to West, Linda Furiya

Recipe:

Ginger & Orange Doughnuts

Cook’s Books, Amanda Gold

“A Great American Cook”, by Jonathan Waxman

Recipe:

Potato Skins with Potato Salad

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Ubuntu takes vegetarian cuisine to new heights in Napa

(This review appeared Sunday, October 21, 2007)

Dining Out, Mandy Erickson

Risibisi’s Italian fare at home in Petaluma

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

PlumpJack menu needs some fine-tuning

Pizza of the Week

Little Star in San Francisco

The Inside Scoop

Roxanne’s raw food line for stores . . . Mecca to reopen after fire . . . Eater SF . . . and more.

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Stock Tips, Janet Fletcher

Chefs offer their do’s and don’ts for making this essential base

Recipes:

Basic Fish Stock

Basic Beef Stock

Basic Vegetable Stock

Basic Chicken Stock

Zuni Chicken Stock

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

From the fire to the frying pan

Recipes:

Red-Alert Red Enchiladas

The Fire Brownies

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Treat yourself on Halloween

Recipes:

Crisp, Spicy Asian-Inspired Salad

Macadamia-Chocolate Popcorn Chunks

Turkey Training: The Finalists, Stacy Finz

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Panel likes Birds Eye view of frozen corn

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Updated again Enrico’s pleases many palates, on Broadway in San Francisco

(This review appeared Sunday, October 28, 2007)

Dining Out, Amanda Gold

Bistro 9 is a cozy spot for a solid meal in the Sunset district

Pizza of the Week

Pizza Azzurro in Napa

The Inside Scoop

Changes at Fifth Floor . . . Cortez chef to move to French Laundry . . . restaurant changes for Mint Plaza . . . and more.

Benefits

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, November 07, 2007

The Lounge Act, Laura Compton

Fine dining slips into something a little more comfortable

Seasonal Cook, Victoria McGinley

A soft spot for hard squash

Recipes:

Butternut Squash Gratin

Roasted Kabocha Squash Salad with Pumpkin Seed Brittle

Cook’s Books, Amanda Gold

“Cooking”, by James Peterson

“Cook with Jamie”, by Jamie Oliver

“1080 Recipes”, Simone and Ines Ortega

“The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Cuisine”, by The French Culinary Institute

Recipes:

The Best Onion Gratin (Jamie Oliver)

Citrus & Endive Salad (James Peterson)

Pork Chops with Onion & Mustard Sauce (Simone and Ines Ortega, online only recipe)

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Panel wades through clam chowder, Campbell’s condensed wins

Festival of Lights, feast of sweets, Jaspreet Jodhka

Diwali is the Indian Festival of Lights

Recipe:

Coconut Barfi

Potato & Spinach Pakoras (online only recipe)

Spicy Mint Chutney (online only recipe)

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Beyond Pad Thai: Grand Pu Bah’s upscale experiment, South of Market

(This review appeared Sunday, November 4, 2007)

Dining Update, Carol Ness

Ninna still enjoyable on Piedmont Avenue in Oakland

Pizza of the Week

Pazzia in San Francisco

The Inside Scoop

Michael Mina to open a restaurant in the Millennium Tower . . . A. Sabella’s closes after 67 years . . . Slow Food update . . . and more.

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, November 14, 2007

In it to win it, Stacy Finz

The Chronicle's Turkey Training Camp Cook-Off had a twist this year - home cooks put their best Thanksgiving dishes to the test

Team Navy's Thanksgiving Menu

Best Way Brined Turkey

Steve's Sausage Stuffing

Lily's Mixed Greens

10-Clove Garlicky Gravy

Mashed Parsnip Potatoes

Cranberry Ginger-Tangerine Chutney

Apple Clafouti with Cinnamon-Nutmeg Cream

Upside-Down Pumpkin Tart

The Coach

Olivia Wu

The Team

Steve Caniglia, Douglas Leach,

Jonathan Proctor, Lily Thang

Team White's Thanksgiving Menu

Mini Crab Cakes with Chive Cream

Grilled Cajun-Rubbed Turkey

Oyster Dressing

Green Beans with Pickled Vidalia Onions

Andouille Sausage & Mushroom Gravy

Sweet Potato Gratin with Bourbon & Pecans

Cranberry-Pear Marmalade

Buttermilk Pie

The Coach

Tara Duggan

The Team

Marker Lovell, Louise Hixon,

Benjamin Seto, Diana Cheifetz

Recipes:

Grilled Cajun-Rubbed Turkey

Oyster Dressing

Green Beans with Pickled Vidalia Onions

Steve’s Sausage Stuffing

Lily’s Mixed Greens

Mashed Parsnip Potatoes

10-Clove Garlicky Gravy

Cranberry Ginger-Tangerine Chutney

Apple Clafouti with Cinnamon Nutmeg Crean

Upside-Down Pumpkin Tart

Buttermilk Pie

Mini Crab Cakes with Chive Cream

Sweet Potato Gratin with Bourbon & Pecans

Andouille Sausage & Mushroom Gravy

Cranberry-Pear Marmalade

Best Way Brined Turkey

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Panel pummels stuffing mixes

Thanksgiving To Go

Don't have the time to prepare Thanksgiving dinner? Here are some restaurants, markets and food services offering ready-to-serve feasts.

Holiday Hotlines

Crab for Thanksgiving? Maybe, but it won’t be local

Seasonal Cook, Leah Clark

Cranberries to relish

Recipe:

Cranberry Oatmeal Cookies

Cook’s Books, Carol Ness

“Demolition Desserts”, by Elizabeth Falkner

Recipes:

Chocolate2 Chip Espresso Cookies

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Palmetto mixes homey menu with upscale décor, on Union Street in San Francisco

(This review appeared Sunday, November 11, 2007)

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Quality takes a dive at Kuleto’s in San Francisco

Dining Update, Amanda Gold

Syrah blends casual, sophisticated dining in Santa Rosa

Dining Out, Mandy Erickson

Sushi meets spaghetti at San Mateo’s Chika

Pizza of the Week

Pizzaiolo in Oakland

The Inside Scoop

Big opening for Mint Plaza . . . Zoya looking for a larger location . . . Soizic in Oakland to open a new location . . . and more.

Letters to Food

Food nonprofit looking for volunteers to transport meals

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, November 21, 2007

No-sweat Thanksgiving, Madelyn Feldman, Elizabeth Cruse, Cindy Lee & Victoria McGinley

Fast, fresh ideas capture favorite holiday flavors

Recipes:

Chicken-Apple Sausage & Fennel Stuffing

Green Bean Un-Casserole

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Roasted Yellow Peppers

Cornish Game Hens with Sage, Lemon & Garlic

Pumpkin Crème Caramel

The Chronicle's Best Way Thanksgiving recipes, Miriam Morgan

Recipes:

Chronicle Classic: Best Way Brined Turkey

Chronicle Classic: Best Way Mashed Potatoes

Chronicle Classic: Pumpkin Pie

Best Way Pie Crust

Best Way Gravy for Brined Turkey

Accidental Vegetarian, Amanda Berne

Give vegetables a big entrée

Recipes:

Phyllo Pie with Greens, Goat Cheese & Cranberries

Winter White Cobbler

Testing which cooking gadgets make the best gifts, Stacy Finz

Holiday Hotlines

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Frozen apple pie is tasted, Vermont Mystic Pie Co, Sara Lee Deep Dish and Trader Joe’s are the winners.

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Two ways to savor the remains of the day

Recipes:

Mashed Potato and Cheddar Soup

Turkey Potpie with Rosemary Roux

list of recipes

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Saratoga’s Plumed Horse offers bit-city luxury

(This review appeared Sunday, November 18, 2007)

Dining Out, Carol Ness

Gutsy flavors hit the mark at Champa in Oakland

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Casual Rex Café is one of the city’s best deals on Polk Street

Pizza of the Week

Piccino in San Francisco

Recipe Correction: Cranberry Oatmeal Cookies

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Five festive finales, Flo Braker

Starting early is the key to pulling off these impressive desserts

Recipes:

Baked Alaska Pave

Chocolate Almond Ring Torte

Cranberry Cherry Ribbon Cookies

Panna Cotta Parfaits with Jellied Pomegranate Ribbons

Rugelach Pastry Puffs

Food Conscious, Carol Ness

Is organic better? It depends.

Wrapping up Hanukkah treats, Marlene Sorosky Gray

Recipe:

Crisp Hanukkah Dessert Wrap

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Stirrings brand ginger ale leads the fizzy pack

Chef’s Night In, Karola Saekel

Chef Maggie Pond from Cesar restaurant in Berkeley

Recipe:

Chicken Fricassee

Restaurants

Dining Out, Olivia Wu

Big Portions, home-style Korean food at Sui Tofu in Santa Clara

(This review appeared Sunday, November 25, 2007)

Dining Out, Karola Saekel

Pinole Café’s upscale fare worth a trek

Dining Update, Olivia Wu

Cantonese and more at Richmond’s Daimo

Pizza of the Week

Zachary’s in Berkeley

The Inside Scoop

Danko to open a new restaurant in Ghirardelli Square . . . Mooses’s undergoing a redesign . . . and more.

About our reviews

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Simply lavish, Tara Duggan

Caterers divulge their top tips and crowd-pleasing recipes

Recipes:

Filet Mignon with Horseradish Cream on Rosemary Rolls

Chocolate Peppermint Ganache S’mores

Squash Tagine in Puff Pastry with Cinnamon Harissa Crème Fraiche

Chestnut Crostini with Chanterelle Mushroom Duxelle

Warm Prosciutto-Wrapped Dates Filled with Toasted Almonds, Gorgonzola & Chevre

Smoked Whiskey Shrimp in Chinese Soupspoons

Seafood of the Season, Olivia Wu

A crab feast that triples the pleasure

Recipes:

Crab Endive Appetizers

Roast Garlic Crab

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

How to tackle the holiday smorgasbord

Recipe:

Creamy Swedish Potatoes with Chives

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Trader Joe’s wild smoked salmon is the winner

Chef’s go for the heart of chocolate, Janet Fletcher

Recipes:

Broiled Flank Steak with Spicy Cocoa Nib Rub

Mustards Grill’s Mexican Chocolate Cookies

Nibby Pecan Cookies

Nibby Ice Cream

Restaurants

Dining Out, Amanda Gold

Les Amis shows promise, but needs some fine-tuning in San Francisco’s Financial District

(This review appeared Sunday, December 2, 2007)

Dining Out, Amanda Gold

Layaly Mediterranean Grill just waiting to be discovered on Clement Street in San Francisco

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

San Francisco’s Grand Café fails to live up to the name

Pizza of the Week

Tommaso’s in North Beach

The Inside Scoop

Myth restaurant sold . . . Pizzeria Delfina to open second location . . . expanded quarters for Jai Yun . . . and more.

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Liquid Gold, Amanda Gold

What could be better than butter? Wait till you try browning it?

Recipes:

Orecchiette in Brown Butter with Toasted Pine Nuts, Capers & Currants

Petrale Sole with Ginger Brown Butter Beurre Blanc

Brown Butternut Squash & Scallion Risotto

Brown Butter Lemon Squares

Brown Butter Caramel Apple Cake

Cook’s Books, Amanda Gold

“Artichoke to Za’tar”, by Greg Malouf and Lucy Malouf

“Dolce Italiano”, by Gina DePalma

“The Elements of Cooking”, by Michael Ruhlman

“Food: The History of Taste”, edited by Paul Freedman

“Indulge: 100 Perfect Desserts”, by Claire Clark

“Pure Dessert”, by Alice Medrich

“The Tenth Muse”, Judith Jones

“Veganomicon”, by Isa Chandra Moskowitz & Terry Hope Romero

“Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone”, by Deborah Madison

“Where Flavor Was Born”, by Andreas Viestad

Recipes:

Lemon Ricotta Fritters (from Dolce Italiano)

Shortbread (from Indulge)

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

Seafood chowder – Patricia’s way

Recipe:

Christmas Eve Chowder

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Sugar-free chocolate sweetens the holidays, Michael Mischer and Charlemagne are top scorers.

Restaurants

Dining Out, Miriam Morgan

Southern fare, California style, at Gator’s Neo-Soul Café in San Mateo

(This review appeared Sunday, December 9, 2007)

Dining Out, Carey Sweet

Vino Grigio predictable, but satisfying in Petaluma

Dining Update, Michael Bauer

Jack Falstaff finding its groove in San Francisco

Pizza of the Week

Rosso’s in Santa Rosa

The Inside Scoop

Mono Restaurant to open in Jack London Square . . . Dean Biersch to open Hopmonk Tavern in Sebastapol . . . Uva Enoteca opens in the lower Haight . . . Olivia Wu will open a restaurant at Google, Amanda Gold takes over her duties at the Chronicle . . . and more.

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, December 19, 2007

Four-star Feasts , Janet Fletcher

Top Bay Area chefs share their menus for a holiday at home

Recipes:

Lamb Chops with Sunchoke Puree & Shallot Marmalade, Ron Siegel, Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton

Braised Pork Shoulder with Savoy Cabage & White Beans, David Kinch, Manresa

Herb-Roasted Sirloin of Beef with Beurre Colbert, Thomas Keller, The French Laundry

Cajun Shrimp (with Help from Mom), Douglas Keane, Cyrus

Pancetta-Wrapped Venison Loin, Roland Passot, La Folie

Grilled Duck Breast with Cabbage, Chestnuts & Citrus Salad, Jean Pierre Moullé, Chez Panisse

What’s New:

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Best budget caviar, under $35, Tsar Nicoulai and Marky’s are top scorers

For the food-obsessed, a holiday postcard from Europe , Karola Saekel

Recipes:

Riesling Pears

Yara’s Super-Easy Frozen Holiday Mousse

Obaster

Gingerbread Spice Mix

The Baker, Flo Braker

Recipe:

Braided Coffee Cake

Restaurants

Dining Out, Michael Bauer

Not one miss in the Italian- inspired menu at SPQR, on Fillmore

(This review appeared Sunday, December 16, 2007)

Dining Update, Miriam Morgan

Ingredients shine at understated Parcel 104 in Santa Clara

Dining Out, Mandy Erickson

Back A Yard does Jamaican jerk the right way in Menlo Park

Pizza of the Week

Pizzetta 211 in the Richmond District

The Inside Scoop

Fire damages Globe restaurant . . . Mission Pie youth program to expand . . . Imperial Tea to close Chinatown location . . . and more.

Benefits

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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