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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle


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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, February 23, 2005

Choucroute, Georgeanne Brennan

I was astonished, and frankly taken a little aback, to find what I had regarded as lowly choucroute featured at the famed Au Crocodile, a Michelin two-star restaurant in Strasbourg. The nouvelle choucroute was served with delicate fillets of local perch and carp dressed with a juniper-flavored beurre blanc. The previous night I had ordered choucroute with three kinds of fish and Champagne sauce at L'Ami Schultz, a casual wine bar on the river Ill, which already seemed a disconcertingly elegant treatment for fermented cabbage. In both cases, the choucroute dishes were accompanied by Alsatian Riesling.

My curiosity piqued, I kept my eye out for more signs of the unexpected versatility of the French sauerkraut. It was served steaming hot at the open- air markets, next to potatoes laced with the local Munster cheese and cauldrons of hot mulled wine. I read the menus posted in restaurant windows and discovered such things as quail stuffed with choucroute, choucroute pancakes with Munster cheese, and tarts of choucroute. In delicatessens I found choucroute crue, or raw, choucroute nouvelle (only recently fermented), and of course, choucroute garni.

Recipes:

Choucroute Tarte with Pork Belly & Bacon

Choucroute Garni

Sauerkraut & Linguica Open-Faced Sandwich

Making Sauerkraut from Scratch

Basic Recipe for Cooking Raw Sauerkraut

The Chronicle Cooking School: Schedule for the new season.

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Pickles from New York

Recipe:

Pickle Soup

What’s New:

  • New cookbooks to shake winter boredom
  • Deep Roots Urban Teahouse, organic tea in Oakland
  • Mozzarella is the top cheese in California
  • Chicago style pizza at Little Star on Divisadero
  • Soy and flaxseed snacks

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Canned hearts of palm, Organic Trading Co. from Trader Joe’s wins.

The Chronicle Cooking School, Thy Tran

How to use dried mushrooms.

East to West, Linda Furiya

Finger foods are fun to make and to eat.

Recipes:

Egg Rolls with Turkey & Shrimp Filling

Spicy Apricot Dipping Sauce

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Dining while reclining, new concept club to open south of market . . . more SF restaurateurs venturing to Singapore . . . and more.

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

Taste of the Himalayas, a dining adventure, Nepalese, Tibetan and Indian food on Lombard.

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, March 2, 2005

Puddings of perfection, Amanda Berne and Tara Duggan

Another article in the "Cooking in Common" series explores how rice pudding is adapted around the world.

Recipes:

Carnaroli Rice Pudding with Wine-Poached Raisins

Scandinavian Almond Rice Pudding with Cherries

Black Rice Porridge in Flower Water with Coconut Cream

Kheer

Seasonal Cook, Janet Fletcher

Frisee and other members of the chicory family make substantial winter salads.

Recipes:

Eccolo's Frisee & Radicchio Salad with parmesan

Frisee & Spinach Salad with Avocado, Fennel & Beets

Grilled Frisee & Endive Salad with Bacon & Poached Eggs

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

New owner for the Red Hen in Napa . . . expansion plans for the Carneros Inn . . . YaYa will reopen in a new location . . . and more.

What's New:

  • Heavy rains are delaying the arrival of spring produce in the markets
  • Info on the new U.S. food pyramid
  • Food to go from the Slanted Door
  • New single cup coffee makers

Taster's Choice, Carol Ness

Couscous is tested and Casbah Whole Wheat brand is the winner.

Cook's Books, Carol Ness

"Wolfgang Puck Makes It Easy", by Wolfgang Puck

Recipes:

Roasted Garlic and Wild Mushroom Pizza

Roasted Garlic Cloves

Letters to Food

Readers opinions on the new U.S. dietary guidelines.

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, March 9, 2005

Going Blog Wild, Amanda Berne

A profile of bay area food bloggers, including eGullet's own Pim.

Recipes:

Crispy Rice Cakes with Prawn & Peanut Dip (Chez Pim)

OTT (Over The Top) Chocolate Chip Oatmeal Cookies (Cooking with Amy)

Ghormeh Sabzi (Persian Green Herb Stew) (Gastronomie)

Young Parisian puts her heart into a cordon-blog, Eric Wahlgren

Voted Best Overall Food Blog in the 2004 Food Blog Awards

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Marlena cooks for a housewarming party!

Recipes:

Queso Fresco with Chpotle Romesco

Tiny Oven-Roasted Potatoes with Black Olive Aioli

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Sellers Market will open in the Financial District for sandwiches and other lunch items, they will use only locally produced ingredients . . . Breads of India expanding to Oakland . . . Sol Food, new Puerto Rican restaurant in San Rafael . . . Cory Lee is the new chef de cuisine at the French Laundry. The FL and Per Se in New York have their own video conferencing system so that chef Keller can stay on top of what's happening in both kitchens . . . and more.

What's New:

  • Besos Foods delivers fresh, ready to cook meal kits in San Francisco
  • Champange and caviar at new restaurant Cyrus in Healdsburg
  • Local strawberries are now available in the produce markets
  • Sahale Snacks offers new flavors (like balsamic or harissa) for trail mix

Taster's Choice, Carol Ness

Brownie Bites, Whole Foods wins, Albertsons Homestyle and Sugar Bowl Bakery also get good scores, Hostess is in last place.

The Chronicle Cooking School, Thy Tran

How to make great stock from scratch.

Cook's Books, Traci Barr

"Spices of Life", by Nina Simonds

Recipe:

Moroccan Spiced Lamb Stew

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, March 16, 2005

Butcher's best-kept secret, Tara Duggan

The popularity of bistro style steaks, hanger, skirt and flank, have increased their prices. Flap steak is a lesser known, lower priced alternative.

Recipes:

Bavette Steak with Beurre Rouge & Roasted Potatoes

Bi-Rite's Carne Asada

Beef Stir-Fry with Seared Broccolo & Kumquats

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

Delta asparagus

Recipe:

Asparagus Pudding

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

It's time to have a little chaat. Where to find the best Indian snacks

What’s New:

  • Americano restaurant opens on the Embarcadero
  • Adagia restaurant opens in Berkeley
  • Mad About Crackers from British Columbia
  • Local asparagus and strawberries are in the market, so are mangoes from Mexico

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

S&W has the winning cooked black beans.

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Chef changes at Frisson . . Oakville Grocery will open a branch in the Cannery . . . and more.

The Exhchange, Karola Saekel

A request for coffee jell-o is filled. New requests for restaurant favorites: Tiki Bob's Pork Chow Mein, Tarte Tatin aux Tomates, Steak Soup from the Pam Pam East and good ginger ale.

Recipe:

Giggly-Boo or Coffee Jell-O Supremo

The Baker, Flo Braker

Recipe:

ZCMI Chocolate Peppermint Brownies

Letters to Food

Edited by PamelaF (log)
Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, March 23, 2005

Sweet Sensations, Olivia Wu

Fresh desserts for Spring

Recipes:

Chocolate Fruit Cups with Chocolate Mousse

Coconut Cake with Pineapple Bavarian Filling

Lemon Meringues with Balsamic Strawberries

Bread Pudding with Creamy Topping

Chocolate Tiramisu

Strawberry Almond Shortcake

Easter eggs of a different flavor, Renate Valencia

Recipes:

Tea Eggs

Spicy Pineapple Eggs

Onion-Skin Eggs (Huevos Haminados)

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Long empty restaurant spaces are being revived . . . and more.

What’s New:

  • Maldon sea salt from England
  • Crepe & Brioche, French bakery, opens in North Beach
  • Halibut is in season
  • Seasonal Bistro, ready to cook meals

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Frozen blueberry waffles are tasted, Van’s Organic and Ralph’s are the leaders.

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

Recipe:

Enchiladas Suizas / Enchiladas Verdes

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

“A Swedish Kitchen, Recipes and Reminiscences”, by Judith Pierce Rosenberg

Recipe:

Sour Cream Waffles

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, March 30, 2005

Dim Sum Dynasty, Carol Ness

A profile of the Chan family who have been running Yank Sing restaurant since 1958.

Recipes:

Mandarin Dumplings with Chives

Snow Pea Shoot Dumplings

Dumpling Skins

Seasonal Cook, Tara Duggan

Parsley is more than just a garnish.

Recipes:

Burmese-Style Parsley Salad

Parsley Ravioli

Fried Parsley

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Marlena shares some favorite Russian snacks.

Recipes:

Beet & Potato Salad with Pickle & Dill

Buckwheat Groats with Mushrooms & Onions

Pickled Mushrooms

What’s New:

  • New Chocolate Factory mural on 12th Street
  • Sweet Adeline Bakeshop opens in Berkeley
  • Dreyer’s has Girl Scout Cookie ice cream flavors
  • New restaurant Winterland opens on Sutter.

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Dark Amber maple Syrup, the winner is Trader Joe’s.

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Recipes:

Chicken Breast with Braised Endive and Potatoes

Pasta Salad with Tuna, Chickpeas & Lemon-Mint Dressing

Cook’s Books, Beth Budra

“Get Saucy”, by Grace Parisi

Recipe:

Sweet Chile-Garlic Stir-Fry Sauce

Dining Around the Bay Area: Capsule reviews

  • CreoLa, New Orleans style bistro in San Carlos
  • Hamilton Café in Novato
  • Tacubaya, taqueria in Berkeley

Letters to Food

Beard Foundation names S.F. sommelier to board

Correction to last week’s recipe for Sour Cream Waffles

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, April 6, 2005

Pizza Wars, Amanda Berne

Amanda takes New York author Ed Levine on a Bay Area pizza marathon to prove once and for all that there is good pizza to be had in California.

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Marlena shares memories of a trip to Cyprus and recipes for meze.

Recipes:

Cypriot Village Salad

Cypriot Lemon-Coriander Olives

Bulgur Pilaf with Orzo & Toasted Hazelnuts

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Tartine to open another location in the Mission . . . San Mateo Kingfish to open another location near SBC Park . . . Changes in Mill Valley . . . and more.

What’s New:

  • Canteen restaurant in the Commodore Hotel now open
  • Marin French Cheese Co. wins at the World Cheese Awards
  • Café del Soul does smoothies in Mill Valley

New labeling law for fresh seafood goes into effect this week, Carol Ness

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Unmarinated artichoke hearts, the winner with only 65 points is Whole Foods 365.

The Baker, Flo Braker

Recipe:

Lemon Custard Tart

The Chronicle Cooking School, Thy Tran

Simple tricks for making light and luscious biscuits

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, April 13, 2005

Sizing Up Shrimp, Olivia Wu

Part of the Seasonal Seafood series: Shrimp is America’s favorite seafood, but at what cost to the environment?

Recipes:

Bay Shrimp Salad with Tarragon Dressing

Steamed Spot Prawns with Ginger & Scallions

Fritto Misto

Spot prawns are heads above the rest in shrimp tasting, Olivia Wu

Dairy guideline draws dissent, Carol Ness

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

Rhubarb shows off its savory side.

Recipes:

Duck Breasts with Lentil Ragout, Glazed Turnips, Watercress & Rhubarb Salad

Orange Bay Salt

What’s New:

  • Bay Area shops offering Passover items
  • Homebaked Pizza, offers specialty take-and-bake pies in Burlingame
  • ”Mini-Mart a la Carte”, by Christopher Rouser and Victoria Taig
  • Parfaits are trendy on Bay Area menus

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Frozen raw shrimp, Andronico’s is a clear winner.

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Nominees for this year’s James Beard awards . . . changes in the Marin restaurant scene . . . Café Marimba has closed . . . and more.

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Recipes:

Roasted Halibut & Asparagus with Melted Leeks

Spicy Curry Fried Rice with Shrimp

Letters to Food

Readers’ feedback on favorite pizza places.

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, April 20, 2005

A Taste of Spring, Amanda Berne

Second installment of the Sunday Dinner series: a meal inspired by a trip to the farmers' market.

Recipes:

Braised Artichokes

Cumin Carrot Soup with Cilantro Cream

Chickpea & Dill Sauce

Harissa-Marinated Lamb Kebobs

Spring Salad with Roasted Asparagus

Tarragon-Macerated Strawberries with Vanilla Ice Cream

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Specialities for Passover.

Recipe:

Exotic Fruit & Spice Charoset

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

"Jewish Food: The World at Table", by Matthew Goodman

Recipe:

Pan di Spagna (Sponge Cake)

Finding Marcona Almonds, Janet Fletcher

Recipe:

Slow-Roasted Almonds

What’s New:

  • New restaurant Zare in Napa
  • New restaurant Boca in Novato
  • Fresh Fava beans are in the market

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Sour cream: Horizon Organic and Berkeley Farms are winners.

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Fior d'Italia to get new location . . . new retaurant Olivia to open in Berkeley . . . be careful when shopping for kosher foods, not all stores label items correctly . . . and more.

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

Maroc restaurant on Haight Street.

Special from the Chronicle's front page:

New food pyramid difficult to digest Abstract update requires Web access for personal plan, Carol Ness

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, April 27, 2005

Secret Ingredient, Janet Fletcher

Fish sauce adds distinction to cuisines far beyond Southeast Asia

Recipes:

Mahi Mahi Ceviche with Coconut Milk

Gary Danko’s Seafood Salad

Mustard Greens with Garlic & Fish Sauce

Terra’s Grilled Hanger Steak ‘Tagliata’

Vietnamese-Style Five-Spice Chicken

Shortcut Ceasar Salad

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Lots of new restaurant openings.

Seasonal Cook, Jeremy Adelson

Farmers’ markets back in force. Includes a listing of markets in San Francisco and the north bay.

Best cup of chai this side of Bombay, Tara Duggan

Recipes:

Raman Bechar’s Chai

Chai Masala

What’s New:

  • Ramps (wild leeks) are in season
  • San Francisco company Divinely D’lish makes wheat free granola
  • Where to get great hot dogs around the Bay Area

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Chai tea bags were tasted the winners were Good Earth and Zhena’s Gypsy Tea

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Shortcut dinner using rotisserie chicken

Recipes:

Unagi with Sauteed Kale & Seaweed

Mediterranean Chicken Salad Sandwiches

The Chronicle Cooking School, Thy Tran

Shells, bones heads constitute a fine kettle of fish stock.

The Exchange, Karola Saekel

A request is filled for an old restaurant favorite. New requests are for English toffee pudding, Peking spareribs, carrot bread, and ginger-orange-pumpkin cheesecake.

Recipe:

Pam Pam East Steak Soup

Cook’s Books, Raina Fletcher

“Not Your Mother’s Slow Cooker Cookbook”, Beth Hensperger and Julie Kaufmann

Recipe:

Old-Fashioned Applesauce Cake with Walnuts

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, May 4, 2005

Laughing with Lola, Olivia Wu

Another “Rent-a-Grandma” feature. This article profiles Benita Advincula who mentors Terri Goehner on traditional Filipino dishes.

Recipes:

Beef Machado

Chicken & Pork Adobo

Pinakbet

Banana-Mango Spring Roll

Fish & Shrimp Sinigang

French cheeses fall victim to import rules, Janet Fletcher

Seafood of the Season, Olivia Wu

Local salmon may be scarce this season.

Recipes:

Monger Hot-Smoked Salmon

Saigon Salmon Sandwich

Salmon & Cucumber Spread

Deviled Smoked Salmon

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

Celebrating Cinco de Mayo.

Recipes:

Meyer Lemon Guacamole

Turkey Chipotle Fajitas

Grilled Peppers with Balsamic Dressing

Study touts power of plant-based diet, Tara Duggan

Listing of East Bay and Contra Costa framers’ markets

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

The Sea Breeze Café in the outer Sunset is a friendly neighborhood place that is great for brunch.

Northern Californians win Beard awards

Special from the Chronicle’s Datebook section: Recipe for Scandal. First article in a 3-part series on the financial investigation of the James Beard Foundation in New York City.

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, May 11, 2005

Against the Grain, Carol Ness

Achieving a gluten-free diet can be very difficult.

Recipes:

Flax Bread

Teff Gingerbread with Dates

Almond & Lemon Cake (Torta di Noce)

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

New BBQ in the East Bay . . . Rue Saint Jacques . . . Marvin’s Gardens in Larkspur . . . SPCA benefit . . . and more.

Seasonal Cook, Tara Duggan

Baby artichokes

Recipes:

Grilled Baby Artichoke Skewers

Carciofi alla Romana (Artichokes with Garlic & Mint)

What’s New:

  • Charles Chocolates
  • All Star Tamales, available at Bay Area farmers’ markets
  • A trend for Peruvian restaurants

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Gluten-free pasta: Tinkyada Pasta Joy, made from rice, scores an 83 and enters the Hall of Fame.

The Chronicle Cooking School, Thy Tran

A Cooking Basic: Cutting Onions

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

“John Ash Cooking One on One”, by John Ash

Recipe:

Grilled Thin Pork Chops with Xnipec & Avocado Sauce

Listing of farmers’ markets for San Mateo and Santa Clara counties

Letters to Food

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, May 18, 2005

The Chill Factor, Beth Budra

The guide to what freezes, what doesn’t and why

Recipes:

Cauliflower Gratin with Mornay Sauce

Basic Freezer Sauce with Mochiko

Fruit Crisp

Crisp Topping

Freezing Helps Some Wines, Hurts Others, W. Blake Gray

Dining Survey Taps Likes, Dislikes, Carol Ness

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Marlena’s love for beets started in France.

Recipes:

Roasted Beets

Goat Cheese Crostini with Beet “Caviar”

What’s New:

  • New Thai restaurants, Citizen Thai and the Monkey Noodle Bar, in SF
  • Blupointe Raw Bar Bistro opens in SF
  • New Boudin Bistro at the Whart
  • Monte Cristo Café opens in Embarcadero Center

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Recipes:

Beef Stroganoff

Turkey Sausage Red Beans & Rice

Cook’s Books, Carol Ness

“Pie Pie Pie: Easy Homemade Favorites” by John Phillip Carroll

Recipes:

Butter Brickle Banana Cream Pie

Shaker Lemon Pie

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Restaurant changes in Sonoma . . . Fior d’Italia has a new location . . . report on Carmel restaurants . . . and more.

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

Country Station Sushi, quirky spot in the Mission

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, May 25, 2005

Rib-stickers, Tara Duggan

Fire up the grill – from Korean short ribs to Southern favorites, it’s time for barbecue

Recipes:

Mattie Bivens Dennis’ Hattiesburg Mississippi Ribs

Savory Grilled Country-Style Pork Ribs

Kalbi Kui (Grilled Korean Shortribs)

Cook’s Books, Karola Saekel

“Vegetarian Suppers” by Deborah Madison

Recipe:

Onion Frittata Glazed with Sherry Vinegar

“New Glorious American Food” by Christopher Idone

Recipe:

Double-Dusted Fried Chicken

“La Cocina de Mama” by Penelope Casas

Recipe:

Pork in Almond Sauce (Carne en Salsa Meson Poqueira)

“Molto Italiano” by Mario Batali

Recipe:

Bread Dumpling Soup (Zuppa di Polpettine di Pane)

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

Fresh garbanzo beans

Recipes:

Fresh Chickpea Hummus

Late Spring Vegetable Ragout with Fresh Garbanzos

What’s New:

  • Marinated mussels
  • Grill gadgets, a better skewer
  • New restaurants: Olivia in Berkeley, Bungalow 44 in Mill Valley, Impala in SF

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Mole paste in a jar: Rogelio Bueno is the winner.

The Baker, Flo Braker

Recipe:

Biscuits with a Twist

The Chronicle Cooking School, Thy Tran

Slow and low is the way to go for grilling large cuts of meat.

East to West, Linda Furiya

Recipe:

Lion Cub’s Head Meatballs with Vegetable & Pasta “Mane”

Capsule Restaurant Reviews

  • Banyan Garden in Union City
  • Taste of the Himalayas in Berkeley
  • Cinecitta in San Rafael
  • Nino’s in San Carlos
  • New Kapadokia in Redwood City
  • Sweet Sisters in Pleasant Hill

Letters to Food

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, June 1, 2005

ENVIRONMENT IN FOCUS

Diet for a sustainable planet - The challenge: Eat locally for a month (You can start practicing now), Olivia Wu

Four women are urging people to buy, cook and eat from within a 100 mile radius of where they live in a monthlong challenge in August called "Celebrate Your Foodshed: Eat Locally."

Recipes:

Potato-Corn Chowder

Calabacitas with Herbed Crema

Summer Berries with Lavender Creme Anglaise

Summer Pot Roast

For Chowhound founder, it's an eater's life, Amanda Berne

Get a glimpse into Chowhound founder Jeff Leff's life.

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Whole Foods pasta whips the competition.

What's New, Olivia Wu, Carol Ness, Amanda Gold, Karola Saekel

Keith Luce's new restaurant, Market Watch with peaches and cherries, handmade Russian dumplings, and the new Mackerel at Midnight cookbook.

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Recipe for wasabi-crusted fish will wow taste buds.

Events to celebrate all things organic, Carol Ness

"From grass-fed beef jerky at the Castro Theatre snack bar to the menus of nearly 100 restaurants, San Francisco will be showing the world its dedication to organic and sustainable food for the next five days."

THE INSIDE SCOOP, GraceAnn Walden

Zare, Mecca and 2223 change hands.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, June 8, 2005

Seafood of the Season, Olivia Wu

Northern Exposure: Alaskan salmon

Recipes:

Sauteed Salmon with Morels & Peas

Salmon Escalopes a la Nage with Julienne Vegetables

Riesling-Poached Salmon

Spring Salmon & Sorrel Soup

Salmon Stock

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

Apricots, includes a list of farms where you can pick your own.

Recipes:

Easy Apricot Jam

Low-Sugar Apricot Jam

Apricot Chutney

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Lavender

Recipes:

Nectarine & Dried Montmorency Cherry Compote with Lavender

Lavender-Yogurt Panna Cotta

Lavender Sugar

What’s New:

  • ”Chocolate: The Exhibit” at the California Academy of Sciences
  • Meal kits to take home and cook, from the Slanted Door
  • Marshmallow Shooters
  • Peaches are in season

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Walnut Oil: La Tourangelle, produced in Woodland, makes the Hall of Fame.

The Chronicle Cooking School, Thy Tran

Picking Good fruit takes practice

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

Los Flamingos, Cuban and Mexican restaurant in the Duboce Triangle neighborhood.

Letters to Food

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, June 15, 2005

The Sticking Point, David Rubien

Nonstick pans are a boon to cooks, but are there dangers lurking beneath the surface?

The demise of the dress code, Peter Kupfer

"Ten or 15 years ago, it was common for high-end restaurants to have strictly enforced dress codes. But those days are gone."

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

News on The Last Supper Club, the new Nice Ventures restaurant Terzo, Maverick in the old Limon space, and a new North Beach restaurant.

What’s New:

  • Pizza chef seeks pure flavors
  • COOK'S BOOKS covers "Being Dead Is No Excuse; The Official Southern Ladies Guide to Hosting the Perfect Funeral''
  • MARKET WATCH - Fields of Corn
  • SHOPPING CART - Haagen-Dazs with half the fat

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Smucker's leads raspberry jam session

Cookies with a kiss of cacao, Flo Braker

Baking with cacao nibs

Recipes:

Cacao Nib Meringue Kisses

Crispy Cacao Nib Wafers

THE WORKING COOK , Tara Duggan

Recipes:

Lamb burgers fit for Father's Day

Cheese Ravioli with Asparagus & Peas

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, June 22, 2005

KIDS' DAY OUT, Amanda Gold

Attractions offer healthier foods, but children still hanker for hot dogs.

Rundown of what's available at some of the Bay Area's major attractions for kids.

Waxing eloquent about cucumbers, Tara Duggan

Everything you ever wanted to know about cucumbers, including handy glossary.

Recipes:

Market's House-Made Pickles

Chilled Cucumber Soup with Shrimp

Secrets of good cooking, Karola Saekel

Linda Carucci, one time dean of the California Culinary Academy and now the Julia Child curator for food arts at Copia, condenses classroom teachings into "Cooking School Secrets for Real World Cooks."

TASTER'S CHOICE, Carol Ness

Starbucks licks coffee ice cream competition

What’s New, Tara Duggan, Linda Murphy, Amanda Gold, Karola Saekel

  • New Union St. "Home" restaurant
  • OPENINGS / Showcase for Healdsburg's food and wine producers
  • OPENINGS / Kingfish takes a swing at ballpark dining
  • SHOPPING CART / What the doctor ordered

The Exchange, Karola Saekel

Sticky pudding captures the heart and sweet tooth of many a Brit

Benefit features martinis, appetizers and a live auction

July 21 Summertini benefit will benefit San Francisco CHEFS (Conquering Homelessness though Employment in Foodservice) program.

THE INSIDE SCOOP, GraceAnn Walden

Fork's Scott Howard to open in S.F.

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, July 6, 2005

OUTSTANDING IN HIS FIELD, Carol Ness

Farmers create a market niche for eco-friendly heritage meats.

Culinary pilgrimage pays homage to the Basques, Cheryl Koehler

Baking bread in a Sierra Nevada meadow.

Recipe:

Burning Lamb (Basque Sheepherder's) Bread

Buckling under blueberries' charms, Carol Ness

"When the Carlons planted their bushes 17 years ago, blueberries were more a Maine and Michigan thing than Californian. John Carlon, whose off-farm work is in restoring wildlife habitat, says California had only 100 acres planted in blueberries back then; now there are 1,200."

Recipe:

Blueberry Buckle

TASTER'S CHOICE, Carol Ness

Original Wheat Thins crunch competition.

What’s New, Carol Ness, Karola Saekel, Tara Duggan

  • Bizou's new incarnation: Coco500
  • OPENINGS / Irish spirit at O'Reilly's
  • COOK'S BOOKS / Hold the French fries
  • SHOPPING CART / Fancy fudge sauces

SOUTH TO NORTH, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

Mexican breakfasts a treat for the eye and taste buds

Recipes:

Huevos Rancheros with Seared Salsa

Mexican Veggie Omelet

Wine bars to pop corks in San Francisco, Santa Rosa, GraceAnn Walden

Wine bars, Carnelian Room makeover, Mom Is Cooking and Palatino closures, new Asia de Cuba chef

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, July 13, 2005

Small bites, big tastes , Amanda Gold

Starting things off right with easy appetizers

THE ROVING FEAST, Marlena Spieler

Tiptoeing through Barcelona's Boqueria

Recipe:

Barcelona Romesco

Fijian restaurant corners market in Hayward, Amanda Berne

"Curry Corner, a tiny restaurant and takeout place, is a gathering spot for the Bay Area's growing Fijian population."

TASTER'S CHOICE, Carol Ness

Frozen contender wins quick brown rice test

What’s New, Amanda Gold, GraceAnn Walden, Olivia Wu, Karola Saekel

  • When the moon hits your eye
  • MARKET WATCH / Wild Salmon
  • OPENINGS / Sweets in the square
  • SHELF LIFE / Mints make nice

Summertime, and the eggplant is easy, Linda Furiya

"Eggplant is often associated with Mediterranean cooking -- baba ganoush, moussaka, ratatouille. But for me, the tapered deep purple variety brings the Japanese cuisine of summer to mind."

Recipe:

Grilled Eggplant with Soy Orange Dressing

Mastering the art of mayonnaise, Thy Tran

"Nothing illustrates the interweaving of simple art and complex science in cooking better than homemade mayonnaise."

Recipe:

BASIC MAYONNAISE RECIPE

LETTERS TO FOOD

Eating sustainable meat is no more ethical

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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, July 20, 2005

SPECIAL ISSUE, Miriam Morgan

100 Great Ideas for making the most of the season's bounty

Turn ripe produce into a south-of-the-border refresher, Tara Duggan

Making agua fresca.

Recipes:

Chunky Cantaloupe Agua Fresca

Horchata

Watermelon Agua Fresca

Pina Colada Agua Fresca

Cucumber-Lime Agua Fresca

Picked-to-perfection fruit is just a stone's throw away , Olivia Wu

"Andy Mariani of Andy's Orchard in Morgan Hill will walk and talk you through his 30 acres in Santa Clara County."

Recipes:

Five Spice Duck Salad with Plums & Plum Vinaigrette

Mariani Peach & Lemon Verbena Parfait

Father puts his stamp on homegrown tomatoes, Linda Furiya

"...nothing will replace my father's tomatoes, which he sends to me two-day parcel post."

Recipe:

Japanese-Inspired Stuffed Tomatoes

Provence sojourn whets appetite for peaches, nectarines and figs, Georgeanne Brennan

"I just returned from Provence, where the markets were brimful of peaches and nectarines and early figs."

Recipes:

Fig Clafouti

Peach Gratin with Lavender Sugar & Walnuts

and more fig and stone fruit recipes.

Falling hook, line and sinker for local halibut, Olivia Wu

"This is almost a different animal from the bottom-trawled halibut caught the rest of the year."

Recipes:

Pan-Seared Fish Cakes with Avocado Salsa Verde

and more halibut ideas.

Corn goes four ways, Amanda Gold

Ideas for creating a full meal with corn.

Recipes:

Sweet Corn Ice Cream

and more simple corn recipes.

Brew sun teas with ease , Karola Saekel

Making your own sun teas.

Sock away the best of the summer garden, Janet Fletcher

Recipes:

Hallie's Giardiniera

Freezer Marinara Sauce

Strawberry-Rhubarb Sauce

Amy Giaquinta's Oven-Roasted Tomato Sauce

and more ways to preserve summer's bounty.

Bay Area chefs cultivate fresh ideas in restaurant gardens, Amanda Berne

"The chef's hat represents many roles -- businessperson, mentor, chef. For some it's become a sun visor, too."

Simple fruit puddings satisfy a sweet tooth, Karola Saekel

Recipe:

Basic Summer Pudding

Playing it cool with frosty summertime soups, Jennifer Tomaro

Recipes:

Melon Gazpacho with Maine Crab

and more cold soups.

Warm weather chills and thrills, Flo Braker

Recipes:

Traditional Jelly Roll with Vanilla Ice Cream

and more uses for ice cream.

Fast summer inspirations

Quick recipes for major oomph including Punchy Fruit Salad, Chile-Lime Corn,

Wilted Cucumber Salad, and lots more!

Wedding dessert? Easy as pie, Amanda Berne

"In true, unconventional Erin fashion, she wanted pies instead of a wedding cake."

Recipes:

Blueberry Wedding Pie

Pie Crust

THE ROVING FEAST, Marlena Spieler

Tomatoes lead the charge.

Recipes:

Tomato Ginger Salad with Crisp Indian Chickpea Sev

Cherry Tomatoes with Vietnamese Dressing

Warm Saffron Tomato Tea

Braised Mediterranean Vegetables

Angel's Fava Spread

Mediterranean-Herbed Picnic Meatballs

and more simple berry desserts, salads, refreshers!

Edited by Hest88 (log)
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, July 27, 2005

The mozzarella dreams are made of, Marlena Spieler

"All of the mozzarella I've eaten in Campania is fresh, milky and better than you'll find elsewhere, but some is far better than others."

COOKING IN COMMON, Jennifer Tomaro, Ryan Miller

KEBABS / Sizzling skewers / Biting into the worldwide appeal of meat on a stick

Recipes:

Spain: Chicken Skewers with Yogurt Mint Sauce

Japan: Ume Chicken Skewers

Southeast Asia: Thai-Style Chicken Satay with Sweet Pepper Sauce

Peru: Anticuchos

Peruvian-Caribbean: Lamb Skewers with Mint Mojo

Middle East: Ground Beef Kebabs

THE INSIDE SCOOP, GraceAnn Walden

Chez Maman expecting triplets

WHAT'S NEW, Lynne Char Bennett, Laura Compton, Tara Duggan, Carol Ness, Amanda Gold, Karola Saekel, Janet Fletcher

Reincarnated restaurants, takeout spots debut; American cheese win big

TASTER'S CHOICE, Carol Ness

Panelists are sweet on Hershey's syrup

Homey Mission spot offers made-to-order Mexican fare, Amanda Berne

Pastores charms critic with vibrant,, simple fare.

LETTERS TO FOOD

Pies inch up on cakes as favorite ceremonial sweets

Edited by Hest88 (log)
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, August 03, 2005

Seeds of change, Olivia Wu

For Central Valley Hmong families, the farming tradition faces an uncertain future.

Recipes:

Soup of Pork Ribs with Kabocha Squash Leaves & Baby Spinach

Pork Lahb Vermicelli

Spicy Cherry Tomato Dip

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Vietnamese restaurant to take the old Max’s Diner space . . . more Vietnamese, Mangosteen opens in the Tenderloin . . . Public on Folsom Street changes hands . . . new banquet space on the Peninsula.

Seasonal Cook, Karola Saekel

Breakfast at Bette’s Oceanview Diner features summer fruit.

Recipes:

Lemon-Ricotta Pancakes

Plum-Raspberry Compote

What’s New:

  • New kitchen gadgets for summer
  • Wonder bread goes whole grain
  • New restaurants: Cock-A-Doodle Café in Oakland and Satur Wine Bar & Bistro in Santa Rosa

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Campbell’s wins the top three spots for tomato juice.

East to West, Linda Furiya

Recipe:

Green Tea Ice Cream

The Exchange, Karola Saekel

Two versions of avocado soup. New requests for artichoke soup, cream of chile soup from Duarte’s, and blueberry custard.

Recipes:

Chilled Avocado Soup

Ivory Coast Avocado Soup

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, August 10, 2005

Rising Above Adversity, Janet Fletcher

The Bread Project teaches adults professional baking skills

Other need-based culinary training programs, Amanda Bowman

The Inside Scoop, GraceAnn Walden

Revamp in store for restaurant Tartare . . . Andrew Jaeger's House of Seafood & Jazz to open in North Beach . . . Tommy Toy's celebrates 20 years while Hawthorne Lane celebrates 10 . . . and more.

The Roving Feast, Marlena Spieler

Spiking the fruit bowl

Recipes:

Peaches and Red Wine

Wine-Splashed Peaches & Raspberries

Fresh Figs, Peaches & Raspberries in Red Wine with Ice Cream

What’s New:

  • Best spots for ice cream and gelato
  • Omega dogs, made from grass-fed beef are sold near SBC Park on game days
  • Piel de Sappo melone, nectarines and tomatoes are in the markets this week
  • Tamarindo Antojeria Mexicana opens in Oakland

Taster’s Choice, Carol Ness

Taquito's were not a hit with the tasting panel, the winner only scored 60 points.

The Working Cook, Tara Duggan

Recipes:

Pad Thai

Ceviche Tostadas

Tostadas

Cook’s Books, Ryan Miller

"Ocean Friendly Cuisine" by JamesO. Fraioli, in association with the Monterey Bay Aquarium

Recipe:

Sauteed Pacific Cod with Greek Wlanut Salsa

From South to North, Jacqueline Higuera McMahan

Recipes:

Sauteed Zucchini Blossoms

Zucchini Blossom Fritattas in Muffin Cups

Dining Out, Amanda Berne

Tajine brings inexpensive Morroccan food to the Tenderloin.

Pamela Fanstill aka "PamelaF"
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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Food Section for Wednesday, August 17, 2005

Celebrating Aioli in a Grand Style, Georgeanne Brennan

In Provence, a grand aioli is a festive happening, a communal get- together. The food is simple to prepare in quantity and is served at room temperature, which makes it ideal for a summer party in a Northern California park, backyard or even cul-de-sac.

Menu:

Toasted almonds

Blue Cheese & Walnut Puff Pastries

Mixed heirloom cherry tomatoes

Mixed olives

Aioli

Potatoes, carrots, beets, green beans and hard-cooked eggs

Poached salmon fillets

Fresh fruit and cookies

Fill 'er up means more than gas at quirky mountail Mobil, Carl T. Hall

Ask anyone within a 50-mile radius of Mono Lake to recommend a restaurant, or suggest a place to meet, and odds are they will start gushing about the Tioga Gas Mart near Lee Vining, where the Whoa Nellie Deli offers filet mignon specials most weekends and "insane soups daily."

Bay Area women harvest memories of summers past, GraceAnn Walden

Food traditions that start in childhood are passed on to the next generation. Special meals, like Thanksgiving, may be set in stone, but summer is a time for letting the harvest dictate, when we anticipate the corn coming to market, the bounty of our gardens, grabbing a perfect peach or tossing a beautiful salad.

Recipe:

Pat Summers' Mushroom Salad

What's New:

* Cowgirls make panir

* Energy bars with a cause

* Vegetarian food as Medicine

* Coffee That's Good for the Stomach

Taster's Choice samples Toasted Sesame Oils, Carol Ness

No-bake way to tart up some great August fruit, Flo Braker

A Roundup of Dining Around the Bay

Siam Royal in Palo Alto

Olivia in Berkeley

La Beau's Kitchen in Martinez

Cafe de la Presse to Reopen as a Bistro, GraceAnn Walden

Laurent Manrique, Charles Cody and a group of anonymous investors to reopen Cafe de la Presse as a French style bistro...Gira Polli sold to new owners...Goood Frikkin' Chicken expands...GGRA to offer English as a second language classes at City College...Eric Torralba (ex of Antidote fame) new executive chef at Tra Vigne...Giovanni Perticone of Splendido passed away in his hometown in Italy after a long battle with cancer.

Blanching locks in flavor, freshness, Thy Tran

Edited by eje (log)

---

Erik Ellestad

If the ocean was whiskey and I was a duck...

Bernal Heights, SF, CA

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