Restaurant Tom Aikens

[robyn]

A word of warning for anyone wanting to make a reservation at Tom Aikens - do NOT use the phone number from the website's info page.

I had printed off the "Info" page as it included both phone number and opening times, but when I rang the number it was for a private house.

I went to BT's online directory enquiries for the right number and found later that the main page of the website has the correct number.

I decided not to complicate things by trying to explain this when I made my reservation, so I had intended to send them an email about it. Unfortunately the website does not have an address for a webmaster and my guess of "webmaster" bounced. So if anyone does know of a suitable email address to tell them about it perhaps you could send me a PM.

Happily I have managed to make a reservation for Duncan's birthday, so we're looking forward to our visit in June.

I had the same problem when I called to make a reservation - and I did tell the restaurant about the wrong number on the website. I was only paying 8 cents a minute for my call from the US - but other people might be paying more to reach a wrong number! Not to mention that the fellow I reached when I dialed the wrong number can't be too happy about getting dozens of calls for the restaurant.

Note to people in the US who are planning a trip to the UK. Bellsouth has a great deal. $1/month for an international plan - calls are 8 cents a minute to the UK. You can turn the service on and off whenever you want. Robyn

[sarah w]

Is it just my PC or is the text really unclear on the Aikens website?

x

Edited May 7, 2004 by sarah w (log)

[JudyB]

Is it just my PC or is the text really unclear on the Aikens website?

x

No, its not just your PC - I had to turn up the brightness quite a long way to read the (wrong!) phone number from the site. Light green on a black background is one of the poorer choices for website design in my view.

[JudyB]

either info@tomaikens.co.uk

or laura@tomaikens.co.uk

should get through. Let us know how the meal goes.

Thanks Moby - I've sent an email to "info" which hasn't bounced yet (my previous attempt bounced more or less immediately).

Duncan or I will certainly post to let everyone know how we get on.

[Gareth]

if the irish sommelier you mentioned is gearoid devanny he worked in paris (whilst tom had his sabbattical) at pierre gagnaire, maybe he's just picked up the accent a bit?

I didn't realise Gearoid had moved to Tom Aikens.

I celebrated (the quieter) part of my stag weekend at Pierre Gagnaire. It was a brave - and almost disasterous - choice, given that those with me were not all hardcore foodies and the Gagnaire tasting menu took no prisoners. In the end what transformed it into a rip-roaring success was the attention devoted to the table by Gearoid who guided us through the cooking and the evening with wit, charm and unstuffy expertise. And I could only sympathise with any sommelier trying to match wines to the diverse firework display that is Gagnaire's cooking !

Anyway, he was infinately more accomplished that the Russian mafioso trying to flog us 'fizz n rohypnol' cocktails in a strip joint in La Pigalle the following night...

I had been trying to decide between Tom Aikens and The Capital for an anniversary meal tomorrow night. In the end, I plumped for The Capital partly 'cos I thought the cooking might be more suited to the occaision (less tricksy, more voluptuous...) and partly 'cos I hadn't eating Chez Chavot since he was cooking at Interlude - and I thought that was fantastic. The idea he might have improved with practice (!) was just too tempting, so Capitol it was. Strangely, had I known about the sommellier at Aikens, that might have tipped the balance. Still, life is all right: Aikens or Capitol - it's not exactly Sophie's choice is it ?

[MobyP]

Still, life is all right: Aikens or Capitol - it's not exactly Sophie's choice is it ?

Literary, tragic, hilarious.

Please let us know how the meal turns out. Chavot and Aikens actually trained together under Koffman at RHR - it's interesting to see now how they've diverged.

[howardlong]

Still, life is all right: Aikens or Capitol - it's not exactly Sophie's choice is it ?

Literary, tragic, hilarious.

Please let us know how the meal turns out. Chavot and Aikens actually trained together under Koffman at RHR - it's interesting to see now how they've diverged.

Hell Moby

I hadn't realised the Tante Claire connection. Although you say 'diverged' there is certainly some similarity in both chefs' propensities to potentially spoil dishes with too many different items (IMHO), but it is taken to new heights at TA's.

The Capital would certainly be my choice every time, if only for the excellent service and the intimate surroundings of the small dining room. Although if Meryl Streep turned up at either I'd know which was Sophie's choice.

Cheers, Howard

[Matthew Grant]

Just read that Mr & Mrs Aiken's have split up (Evening Standard) . She will continue to manage the restaurant. He will continue to cook.

[robyn]

Just read that Mr & Mrs Aiken's have split up (Evening Standard) . She will continue to manage the restaurant. He will continue to cook.

Should I bring a football helmet when I eat there next week ? Robyn

[Matthew Grant]

I don't know - I'm too scared to eat there

[tony h]

just returned fom a stellar lunch at TA's (tasting menu)

will write up soon (need to wait until alcohol has worn off)

[MobyP]

...will write up soon (need to wait until alcohol has worn off)

Sometime in August then?

[Andy Lynes]

While we wait for BLH to sober up, I have heard a rumour that Laura Aiken will not continue to work at the restaurant, despite what was said in the Evening Standard. I checked this with their "people" who said that, as she part owns the place, she's not going anywhere. Although she might well take a holiday. And they have hired a restaurant manager, but that was always the plan as Laura doesn't want to work every night. Watch this space.

[robyn]

just returned fom a stellar lunch at TA's (tasting menu)

will write up soon (need to wait until alcohol has worn off)

Like I've said - we had a fabulous dinner there on the 27th - and just got home today. Once I get unpacked and back to normal (a couple of days) - I'll report too (on this and the other places we went to). It would really be too bad if Mrs. Aikens left the establishment - because I thought she was a terrific "front of restaurant" person.

By the way - I read an article in the paper on the plane today. I think it was from the Times. About the Michelin rating system and the fellow who wrote a book "exposing" the "dirty little secrets". And all I can say is he was totally on point. If one looks only at food and service - then the 2 best restaurants we went to were Gordon Ramsay and Tom Aikens (the interior at Gordon Ramsay was a bit more polished). Can't say that one was better than the other. They were just totally different in terms of food styles. Gordon Ramsay is Chanel - or Gucci - traditionally elegant - and Tom Aikens is Cavalli or Alexander McQueen - right on the cutting edge. Like I said - no better or worse (except perhaps as a matter of taste preference) - just different.

That said - I can't understand Aikens having 1 star - and Ramsay having 3. You might say - well Aikens is new - and Ramsay isn't. But if the Times article is correct - the chefs with "pull" can get their 2 stars or 3 stars even when they're new. Makes me wonder.

I'll also note that we thought Menu was very very good. It got a first star this year - and that is clearly where it ought to be. Zaika - on the other hand - while enjoyable - simply isn't in the same league as the other restaurants with Michelin stars. In light of the Times article - it really gives one pause.

Anyway - I know I'll get around to writing more about each place when I get caught up back home. We had a great time eating in London (apart from the star restaurants we ate at places as diverse as the hotel restaurant - 140 Park Lane - Wagamama -the Anchor and Hope - fantastic lamb sweatbreads there - and terrific dim sum in Chinatown). I took some pictures at a few places and will post them when I figure out how to upload pictures. I had to diet before I left and I fear I'll have to diet now upon our return . But it was worth it! Robyn

P.S. The favorite things we saw apart from food were the Chelsea Flower Show, Jerry Springer at the Opera, the Hopper exhibit at the Tate, the roses at the Queen's garden in Regent's Park (simply the most amazing display I've ever seen) and listening to people from dozens of countries who now live in the UK scream at Speakers' Corner in Hyde Park about how awful the US and the UK are (it is of course their right to do that in the US and the UK - but they'd have their tongues cut out were they to say similar things about their home countries in their home countries - my husband and I furthered the tradition of heckling that afternoon ). You're too late the catch the first event - but the others are ongoing and I recommend them. Those of you who live in London live in a wonderful city - and I'm more than a bit jealous.

[robyn]

I like Clare McIntosh's comment "Being greeted by a champagne trolley was a brilliant idea!". I agree, it's bound to do a better job of it than Mrs Aikens if my recent experience is anything to go by.

Just curious - what didn't you like about Mrs. Aikens? What was your experience?

I found her to be quite charming. Like the rest of the staff. And the Irish sommellier - well no one could mistake him for anything but Irish the night we dined. Which is kind of beside the point - because we judged him on his wine selections (for us - we don't exactly drink traditionally) - and we were quite happy (I with my pol roger - my husband with his wine).

Her husband - Mr. Aikens - is quite interesting too. We chatted with him for a while in the bar area (I like to have a cigarette after dinner and you can only smoke in the bar there). I really hadn't gotten the kind of feeling about food I got that night since I had my first Robuchon meal at Jamin. Something new - something exciting. In this case - well I have to liken the dishes to what one feels watching the Cirque du Soleil. There is a lot going on - but you take it in with a sense of awe and wonder - not scorn. Like every possible piece of veal (including the tongue) cooked every which way with everything that goes with it - including magical beignets of foie gras - what could be more terrific than that (this was the single most delicious thing I ate in London)?

I was pleased to learn that Mr. Aikens (is it Aiken or Aikens?) trained for a while with Mr. Robuchon. The most favorite chef of my younger days passing on ideas to a new generation of chefs who will bring a smile to my face as I age .

Anyway - what didn't you like? What did they do to offend you? I am a simply a middle aged woman who loves good food - and my love didn't go unrequited the night I dined there. Robyn

[MobyP]

The two things that characterize everyone who has eaten at Aikens are firstly that no one agrees with anyone else, and that everyone thinks everyone else is nuts. If you enjoyed your meal, the first person you talk to would have hated theirs. I have had cooking both delicate and bold, flavours quiet and loud, presentations brash and restrained - and almost all of it exceptional. But I couldn't begin to explain to you the animus his food inspires in others.

As to the Michelin stars - everyone starts with one, with almost no exceptions. He will no doubt attain more, so long as Michelin doesn't send him more than one inspector to deal with.

[Andy Lynes]

I like Clare McIntosh's comment "Being greeted by a champagne trolley was a brilliant idea!". I agree, it's bound to do a better job of it than Mrs Aikens if my recent experience is anything to go by.

Just curious - what didn't you like about Mrs. Aikens? What was your experience?

Mrs Aiken was manning the reception with another member of staff. She was on the phone when I arrived. When I told the other member of staff my name, Mrs Aiken looked up from her call and shot me what I can only describe as a filthy look. Mrs Aikens did not appear in the dining room at all during the lunch service.

Towards the end of the meal Tom Aikens appeared from the kitchen and looked over at my table. I assumed he was about to come over and talk to me as he knew I was going to be dining that day and that I wanted to arrange an interview for eGullet. Mrs Aiken appeared by his side shook her head, and the chef disappeared again.

I have since had it confirmed that immeadiately before I arrived, Mrs Aikens had been reading this very thread and didn't like what she had seen. So perhaps my experience was a little unusual and under other circumstances I may have recieved a different type of service. However, this was my seciond visit. I had found Mrs Aikens to be lacking in warmth the first time, and the service generally to be below expected standards on both occasions. As I don't find Aikens' food to be particularly to my taste, it is highly unlikely that I will return for a third time.

An interview with Tom Aikens by MobyP and Jonathan Day will appear on The Daily Gullet soon.

[tony h]

Tom Aikens

May 2004

I was taken for my birthday to TA last week and had an absolutely stunning lunch there. We chose the tasting menu (well, I did take her to Fat Duck for her birthday) although there was quite a lot on the ALC that I wanted to try. Just means more visits, I suppose.

Starter was a small cup of potato froth/foam with cubes of potato at the bottom with the slither of crisped potato protruding from the foam. An instant wow – such simplicity and clarify of tastes and with a very very long finish. I could easily have had a pint of the stuff.

First course – thinly sliced scallops cooked by marinated sitting on top of tomato slices and deeply intensified tomato salsa. On top was a jelly of basil & tomato – when tasted there was a quick explosion of basil flavours with subsided to leave an intense tomato flavour - quite wonderful. We couldn’t taste the scallops – overpowered by the marinated – but it didn’t matter really as the rest of the dish was so good.

Second was foie gras and carrot salad. I’m sure it had a better name but I don’t recall. First impressions was that this was the most stunning plate of food I’ve had in a very long while. A symphony of orange and green and yellow. The carrots were supplied in a variety of ways – foam, ribbon sliced, boiled (but in an interesting way), jelly and a few more – the green was hibiscus-like leaves dotted around the plate simply but beautifully arranged. Then there will things like intensely flavours prunes to give the dish balance. And lots and lot of different t white & yellow sauces which had been painted onto the plate – one was mango purée with ginger; another vanilla (I think) mayonnaise. Here and there were dash of aged balsamic. In the middle, slightly, hidden, was a small piece of foie gras – ballotineed and covered with crumbs (bread or ginger cake – not sure). The FG really wasn’t needed – but it was pretty good. Over all – bloody amazing – this I could have eaten & eaten.

Third was carpaccio of sea bass with fennel shavings (cooked & raw) with slight pernod sauce – very refreshing. Again, didn’t want this dish to end.

Fourth – boudain of chicken with seriously good cream stock with lots of peas and broad beans. Fab.

Cheese course – we were asked what kind we liked & they chose a selection of some pretty good cheeses to match our taste. Usually not my favourite course – but this was pretty good.

The two desserts were less interesting and formulaic in that they are based on the chocolate cylinders filled with foam. The first was a series of coffee and caramel flavours – the second was lemon 7 different ways. I’m sure these must have taken ages to perfect but they left me quite cold and unengaged. The lemon one, in particular, was just too strong at times.

The post meal goodies have been very well described elsewhere on this thread.

Wines: whites by the glass for first 2 courses then a red Michel Gros for the rest – very good but I don’t recall specifics. Muscat dessert wine was also good but couldn’t hold its own against the lemon

Overall – I cant wait to go back and attack the ALC. The food here is certainly punching well above its 1 star status and provides a welcomed alternative to Ramsay & his (stale?) derivatives.

Post Note – Mrs Aiken was there and looked, well, broken. She had none of the presence that I observed 2 months ago and seemed to have taken a step back from the micro-management she did last time. She was very courteous when taking our orders but apart from that the brigade ran the place. I guess her heart just isn’t it right now – who can blame her.

[Suzi Edwards]

Fourth – boudain of chicken with seriously good cream stock with lots of peas and broad beans. Fab.

i misread this as bourdain and was totally flummoxed for a moment.

[MobyP]

Post Note – Mrs Aiken was there and looked, well, broken. She had none of the presence that I observed 2 months ago and seemed to have taken a step back from the micro-management she did last time. She was very courteous when taking our orders but apart from that the brigade ran the place. I guess her heart just isn’t it right now – who can blame her.

It's one thing working closely with your husband/wife. But to break up and have to keep working - it must be unbearable.

How much has the menu changed from the last time you were there (which was only a couple of months ago, no?)?

[robyn]

Unpacked and found my menus. I've told you just about everything I thought about our meal at TA - but I didn't tell you what my husband and I ate.

We started with the champagne trolley. The first time I saw one of these was at ADNY - and it was love at first sight. Wine generally doesn't agree with me but - for some reason - champagne does. So I stuck with champagne for the evening - Pol Roget NV. I'd never tried this champagne before (it isn't that common here in Florida) - and I liked it a lot. It wasn't a bargain at TA - 10 pounds a glass. I've found some here in Florida today for $20/bottle. I'll be stocking up.

My husband and I both had the ALC carte menu for 55 pounds. I thought the price was very reasonable for the meal.

We had several amuse bouche courses. I don't take notes - so what I don't remember isn't memorable. The one amuse bouche that was memorable was a wonderful parfait/mousse/whatever of tomato with pesto. The essence of spring.

My starter was "Duck" - which is billed on the menu as hot duck cassonade with foie gras beignets, cured duck and prune puree. It was terrific (duck several ways and things that taste good with duck) - and the foie gras beignets were the single best thing I had in London. We deep fry everything here in the deep south in the US. Wonder why no one here has thought to fry foie gras ? My husband's starter was "Scallops" - billed as roast scallops with cauliflower puree, sherry jelly and pickled raisins. It was good - delicate - but I liked my "Duck" better (I tend to prefer hearty dishes).

For the main - I had "Veal" - roast veal fillet with veal shin lasagne, braised veal and braised onions with sorrel. The circles of fillet were served over little piles of delicious mashed poatoes. The single best thing on this plate was a square the size of an envelope served vertically which was fried tongue of veal. I swear - Tom Aikens is the best southern cook in the world - he knows what to fry and how to fry it .

My husband had "Chicken" - roast chicken breast with boudin of chicken leg confit, chicken and morel mousse, morels and Sauternes sauce. I thought this was very good - but again - more delicate than and not as good as the veal. My husband tends to order a lot of fish and chicken - but I always like to give a chef a chance to work with the big flavors that you can only develop when you're working with game and meat.

The best dessert throwaway was the truffles (I have a weakness for truffles). I would have ordered the Coffee and Hazlenut for dessert (it's one of my favorite flavor combinations) - but my husband ordered it first. So I took the Lemon. The Coffee and Hazlenut was coffee and hazlenut cake with coffee mousse and coffee parfait. I liked it better than the Lemon (lemon rice pudding with lemon pannacotta, lemon sorbet and lemon mousse) - but the Lemon was tasty (perhaps parts might have been a bit tart for some people - but I like my citrus desserts tart). I will note that I had never heard of lemon rice pudding before this trip - but I wound up having it twice. The first time was at 140 Park Avenue - and I thought it was better at 140 Park Avenue because the rice was lumpier there and it was served with spiced poached pears - I'm a sucker for poached pears. If I had to point to one weakness at the restaurant (and it's a minor weakness) - it would be on the dessert end.

All in all - it was a terrific meal - and I think what I ordered played to the chef's strengths - which are the big tastes of game and meat. I always advise people to order the "big" dishes at "big" restaurants - and TA is no exception.

The wine service was excellent. My husband asked for a recommendation for a bottle to go with his meal - and received a Menetou-Salon "Clos des Blanchais" Henri Pelle Loire 2002 for 35 pounds. He liked it a lot - and it didn't break the bank. So you don't have to spend a fortune to drink good wine here (although it is certainly possible to go to much greater heights - at much greater cost - than we did).

I frankly can't see how reasonable people can disagree about this restaurant. It's excellent. I know from reading this thread and other things on the internet that this chef carries some baggage with him - and then there is the unfortunate current gossip about him and his wife. I don't think that the chef's past or his marital situation is any of my business. I'm simply a diner at his restaurant - not his mother - and all I want is a excellent meal. There is no question my husband and I got that when we dined with him and his staff last week. Robyn

[Suzi Edwards]

I frankly can't see how reasonable people can disagree about this restaurant.

isn't that the beauty of opinions though?

glad you enjoyed your meal robyn, it sounds like you had a good trip.

[Andy Lynes]

I frankly can't see how reasonable people can disagree about this restaurant.  It's excellent.  I know from reading this thread and other things on the internet that this chef carries some baggage with him - and then there is the unfortunate current gossip about him and his wife.  I don't think that the chef's past or his marital situation is any of my business. I'm simply a diner at his restaurant - not his mother - and all I want is a excellent meal.

Apart from BLH's recent comments about Mrs Aikens and my own unusual circumstances, the disagreements on this thread are all about the restaurant and the food, and don't appear to me to be influnced by opinions about the sort of person Tom Aikens may or may not be and his relationship with his wife.

Some people say its as good as Gordon Ramsay, others describe their meal as dismal. Others just say its just average. I don't know of any other high profile "Michelin" style establishement in the UK that provokes such a divergance of views. My guess is that its partly to do with Aikens' exuberant style of cooking not pushing everyone's buttons in the same way, but may also indicate a lack of consistancy in the overall operation of the business.

[robyn]

I frankly can't see how reasonable people can disagree about this restaurant.

isn't that the beauty of opinions though?

glad you enjoyed your meal robyn, it sounds like you had a good trip.

We had a great trip. A combination of various things. Just about everything in London was very good ---> excellent. And we'll be spending most of June taking my father-in-law for radiation therapy for cancer. So it was our last chance to have a good time for a while - and we made the most of all the good things London has to offer. Robyn

[robyn]

My guess is that its partly to do with Aikens' exuberant style of cooking not pushing everyone's buttons in the same way, but may also indicate a lack of consistancy in the overall operation of the business.

After one meal - I obviously can't comment on consistency. I do suspect it's more of a style thing though. Just like all the arguments about the show gardens at Chelsea this year (the most contentious arguments I heard in London weren't at Speakers' Corner - they were at Chelsea!).

As for you and Mrs. Aikens - some people are oil and water. For various (frequently no-fault) reasons. Such is life. Robyn