How Far Will You Go?

[itch22]

I was in the local Vintages/LCBO store looking for a bottle of port for cooking. On the left was a $20.00 bottle, which most run-of-the-mill port goes for. Then, on the right, are bottles ranging from $60.00 to $100.00.

Though I persoanlly would not use a $100 bottle or even a $60 bottle of port or anything else in cooking, what about you? The old adage is, if you wouldn't drink it then don't cook with it. What is the most expenisve you've used?

[fifi]

Are you familiar with those handy dandy boxes?

Just kidding.

I once used a $30+ bottle of burgundy in a pot of beef burgundy. Now, I am not a wine freak by any means and for all I know burgundy at that price point might be crap. I felt pretty extravagent using it. My beef burgundy critics (son and friend) proclaimed it a waste of money and told me to quit f***ing with my recipe.

[tammylc]

I wouldn't buy an expensive bottle of wine for the sole purpose of cooking with it. But if I needed 1/2 c of something for a sauce, I'd use whatever I had on hand or was about to open up, and if that was something expensive, that's okay. I've used 20 year old Tawny Port (~$35/bottle) to cook with - but it was 1/4 cup here or there as needed before I'd finished the bottle.

[Craig Camp]

While the adage don't cook with it if you won't drink it is sound: a second one should be if you can sell it at auction don't cook with it.

Putting great wine in a dish is an incredible waste of good wine. Just use very good wine with clean fruit flavors.

I have been in many top restaurant kitchens over the years and I can assure you they are not tossing Cru Burgundy or Barolo in the pots.

[pleiades]

no kidding. I agree, use something clean and well made, usually between $7 and $10, with the exception of port, obviously.

I sell wine to restaurants for a living, and I can tell you they all cook with red and white that would sell for no more than $11 in a 1.5l.

And don't laugh too hard at the box stuff. I admit the current crop of enhanced sweetened plonk is nooo good for anything. But Banrock Station and now Delicato are selling their decent-quality magnum juice in 3 liter bag-in-box. It's not augmented with fruit juice or sugar like the Almaden or the other BIG box wines, it spoils far less quickly, and the chef might find it worthy plonk to sip on while cooking too. They're more expensive than typical box "wine" obviously, but cheaper by volume than their 1.5l or .750l counterparts.

[Busboy]

I have been in many top restaurant kitchens over the years and I can assure you they are not tossing Cru Burgundy or Barolo in the pots.

Although, I once saw Yanik Cam at Le Pavillon pour a half-bottle of d'Yquem into a gelee. I can't remember much else about the dessert, I think he was creating the world's most expensive fruit 'n' jello combination (poach pears in sauterne gelee or something). But I remember him goinf down into the cellar and coming up with that hundred dollar half-bottle, and pouring it into the pot.

[Carolyn Tillie]

I was working with Julian Serrano on an event where he reduced a Banyuls for a dessert glaze - it was really a Banyuls-caramel. Now I adore Banyuls and have never been able to buy one for less than $25.00 or so - but would I reduce a whole bottle of it for a little dessert sauce? Probably not.

But I'll tell you - it was damn fine...

[Craig Camp]

I have been in many top restaurant kitchens over the years and I can assure you they are not tossing Cru Burgundy or Barolo in the pots.

Although, I once saw Yanik Cam at Le Pavillon pour a half-bottle of d'Yquem into a gelee. I can't remember much else about the dessert, I think he was creating the world's most expensive fruit 'n' jello combination (poach pears in sauterne gelee or something). But I remember him goinf down into the cellar and coming up with that hundred dollar half-bottle, and pouring it into the pot.

[Chad]

Judge: "Mr. Ward, you are charged with beating a chef with a ladle until he became incontinent."

Me: "But your honor, he dumped a half-bottle of d'Yquem into a pot just to make some jelly."

Judge (a wine lover; my lawyer knows this): "Dear God man, why didn't you finish the job!"

Chad

[Busboy]

Even by "roaring 80's" standards, it did seem a little excessive.

[badthings]

While the adage don't cook with it if you won't drink it is sound: a second one should be if you can sell it at auction don't cook with it.

Putting great wine in a dish is an incredible waste of good wine. Just use very good wine with clean fruit flavors.

Richard Olney has some words of wisdom remarkably similar to Craig's on this subject in Simple French Food. There is an amusing discussion of Coq au chambertin.

I have used a glass or two of the wine I was drinking, up to about $20/bottle, which is about as much as I spend on wine, but always with regret.

Edited November 25, 2003 by badthings (log)

[fifi]

And don't laugh too hard at the box stuff. I admit the current crop of enhanced sweetened plonk is nooo good for anything. But Banrock Station and now Delicato are selling their decent-quality magnum juice in 3 liter bag-in-box. It's not augmented with fruit juice or sugar like the Almaden or the other BIG box wines, it spoils far less quickly, and the chef might find it worthy plonk to sip on while cooking too. They're more expensive than typical box "wine" obviously, but cheaper by volume than their 1.5l or .750l counterparts.

I agree that there are some good "boxed" wines out there. Actually, that is a terrific idea, especially if you like to keep a decent wine around for cooking and the occasional glass. The point being that air doesn't get to it. I just haven't tried those yet.