Trio Kitchen Table

[cbarre02]

I don't think that we should look at food as though it a toy, maybe we are missing the boat. I think that this type of food is moving to the realm of entertainment. Grant seems to want us to think about his food rather than just taste it.

Just as wine has some sort of entertainment value now so does food. Why would some one pay so much for a bottle of 70 year old fermented grape juice (after reading this please read on... don't find my house and shoot me), to me it's because of the stories that can be told through those 70 years. All of the wonders and terrors that have happened in the world in those last 70 years, yet some one felt this bottle special enough to keep special tabs on it. The history that it carries and that it unleashes when it is open. All of this and we have not eve tasted the bottle. Why can't food be the same way, why don't we try to understand it on the same kind of thought level? Can we see into the thought pattern of a chef by reading their menu, I think so. It could be the true genius be hind the food that we find just as amazing as the food itself.

To many times the greatest compliment that we can give to a chef and their food is, "wow this tastes great". Try going to a chef and telling them that you truly appreciate the way they were able to pair all the earthy elements on the plate with out loosing the lightness of it, or by telling a pastry chef that you truly appreciated the gelling ratio of their panna cotta. These are the things that we strive for everyday, to break away from the mundane with out breaking away from our customers.

[ronnie_suburban]

Well said Cory

=R=

[Suzi Edwards]

I just read on another thread that there are "credible rumors" that Achatz will be leaving Trio later this year. How credible are the rumors? When is he supposed to be leaving? Where will he go next?

Since I had planned to revisit Trio (from out of state) for the kitchen table in early September, this rumor is distressing, if true. I already have reservations that week for the kitchen table at Trotter's. But, frankly, I was looking forward to the meal at Trio with even greater anticipation.

Hoping it isn't true (and, failing that, hoping Achatz moves to Dallas),

Scott

can you post a link to the thread?

cheers

[ronnie_suburban]

I just read on another thread that there are "credible rumors" that Achatz will be leaving Trio later this year.  How credible are the rumors?  When is he supposed to be leaving?  Where will he go next?

Since I had planned to revisit Trio (from out of state) for the kitchen table in early September, this rumor is distressing, if true.  I already have reservations that week for the kitchen table at Trotter's.  But, frankly, I was looking forward to the meal at Trio with even greater anticipation.

Hoping it isn't true (and, failing that, hoping Achatz moves to Dallas),

Scott

can you post a link to the thread?

cheers

I'm not very enthusiastic about batting around rumors but if we're going to do it, since the rumors in question revolve around chef g, this thread is the best place to discuss them. Please.

=R=

[Scott -- DFW]

I heard the rumor of a rumor at: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=42506 . Perhaps others can provide more detail as to what they've heard and from whom. Ideally, we could get an answer from Achatz himself.

Scott

[ronnie_suburban]

I heard the rumor of a rumor at: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=42506 .  Perhaps others can provide more detail as to what they've heard and from whom.  Ideally, we could get an answer from Achatz himself.

Scott

Yep, that's the thread but let's try to keep discussion of it here.

Chef Achatz does indeed frequent eGullet so perhaps he'll chime in at some point and give us the scoop (if there is one).

=R=

[raych77]

I wasn't planning my return trip to Trio for probably a year. I was going to go exploring in other places, but I guess I had better go sooner rather than later just in case! Gee, twist my arm....

[Schneier]

Food as toys? Does no one think this is contrived? Am I alone in thinking that none of these dishes sounds remotely appetizing? Just curious.

There are things you can do with small bites of food that you can't do with larger portions. That's one of the key components of this kind of meal; nothing is large.

Bruce

[Schneier]

Over a year after first wanting to go, I finally made it to the kitchen table at Trio. It was the week after Karen's daughter's wedding, and I figured a short vacation would be nice. I made a reservation, booked plane tickets, and got a room in he hotel upstairs from the restaurant. Basically, Karen and I went to Chicago for dinner.

And a grand dinner it was. Twenty-seven courses, roughly arranged in two complete meals. Five hours. Interesting and excellent wines. And an excellent view of the line. All in all, a grand time.

Karen and I always enjoy kitchen tables. We like watching the bustle of the line, the preparations and the platings. Chef Grant Achatz runs a calm kitchen in Trio. He looks like a mad genius. He's intensely focused on what he's doing, and didn't so much as turn around and acknowledge our presence until the end of the meal when his job was basically done. (Then he was talkative and friendly.) His two sous chefs seem to be his exact opposite in temperament, and the various under chefs somewhere in between the two.

The food was all delicious, but I wasn't as impressed as I would have been a year ago. Back then I hadn't really had a bizarre tasting menu before. I had never eaten a menu prepared by someone channeling, or interpreting, El Bulli. But in the past year I've eaten at the French Laundry, Jose's Minibar at Cafe Atlantico, the Fat Duck, and several other restaurants along those lines. I've had many meals that included tiny bites of interestingly juxtaposed tastes, textures, and all sort of other things. I'd already learned that food combinations that you would never imagine serving as a course are delicious and surprising when it's only a single bite.

And to make matters worse, I didn't have time after the meal to write it up.

So now it's two and a half weeks after my meal. I have the menu, and I have my notes. I'm only going to make short comments on the individual dishes.

This is the "Tour de Force" menu, served with the wine parings. (I generally liked the wine choices. They were non-standard and interesting, which I always appreciate.) Served in the kitchen...

1. Caramelized Sri Lankan Eggplant. It was a tiny square; just a bite. Eggplant with caramelized sugar and Sri Lanken spices. A yummy taste of the meal to come.

2. Wild Steelhead Roe, sake, tosaka seaweed, cucumber.

3. Charred Pineapple, smoked salmon, shichimi togarashi, soy. Shichimi togarashi is a Japanese spice blend. This was the first weird delivery mechanism. It was a bite of pineapple, a bite of fish, and a bite of cucumber, all stuck on a slender wire that stuck up from the plate and boinged up and down in front of you.

Wine 1-3. Pommery "Brut Royal," Reims.

4. Chilled English Peas, ramps, eucalyptus, yogurt, ham. This dish was delicious in every way:" chilled pea coulis, ham, ham granita, eucalyptus pearls. We watched this dish being made all night; it was part of another of their menus. We would have gladly eaten more.

Wine 4. Montesole Fiamo di Avellino, Campania, Italy, 2002.

5. Black Truffle Explosion. This was a liquid black truffle ravioli with broccoli bits and broccoli puree. It just explodes in your mouth. Delicious.

6. Maine Lobster, flavors of Thai ice tea, aromatic bread. Poached lobster and lobster consomme. The "Flavors of Thai ice tea" consisted of cinnamon, star anise, and cloves, and gave the dish a nice pop. The aromatic bread had peanut butter--another Thai flavor--on it. There was also coconut foam, artichokes, orange tea, and Thai basil. The most complex dish so far, and very delicious.

Wine 5-6. Birgit Eichinger "Strasser Gaisberg" Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria, 2001.

7. Roasted California Porcinis, dried bacon, caramelized dairy, walnuts. Another complex dish: porcini puree, parsley juice, paprika, onion, lemon zest, fresh parsley, saffron, walnut milk, the oddly named "caramelized dairy." Also excellent.

8. Hot Fava Bean and Cold Parmesan Purees, olive oil, lavender. A very rich dish, served with lavender petals and olive oil. Yum.

Wine 7-8: Conreria d' Scala Dei "Les Brugueres" Garnacha, Priorat, 2001.

9. Chicharrones con Salsa. The pork rinds came seasoned with pepper and served with cilantro puree, vinegared tomato seeds, and avocado. Very tasty.

10. Elysian Fields Farm Lamb, sunflower plant, bag of crispy texture. The lamb was served with sunchokes, sunchoke puree, and lamb reduction. The "bad of texture" was a bag filled with nuts and seeds: sunflower seeds, fried capers, fried oregano, crispy garlic, lamb bits. The idea was to sprinkle the bag over the dish and eat. Really, really good.

Wine 9-10. Honig Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2000.

11. "Cheese 'n Cracker." A single cracker ravioli filled with sharp cheddar.

12. Moulard Duck Foie Gras, blueberries, cinnamon tapioca, sorrel. This dish was served in a tube, and the idea was to suck it out. It all happened so fast that I couldn't make out any of the individual flavors, but the combination was delicious.

13. Raisin Soda. This was served with hot Hawthorne berry foam. Tasty.

Wine 12-13. Ochs Blaufrankisch Eiswein, Neusiedlersee, Austria, 2001.

INTERMISSION. Karen and I walked to Lake Michigan and back.

14. Kiwi Seeds - Young Coconut - Lime. If you notice, we're starting a second meal here. Basically, the kiwi was the flavor that dominated this dish. It was served with lime vinaigrette, baby coconut, and passion fruit seeds.

15. Tempura of Maine Shrimp, vanilla, cranberry, Meyer lemon. Everyone seems to rave about this dish, and I can see why. It's a single shrimp tempura served on a vanilla bean. I could have eaten an entire meal of these and not complained one bit.

16. Confit of Melysol Melon, prosciutto, catmint, sherry vinegar. The dish was beautiful: small balls of different colored melons in vinegar and honey, garnished with mint and crispy prosciutto.

17. Virtual Shrimp Cocktail. A spray bottle; you sprayed the taste of shrimp cocktail into your mouth. Silly.

Wine 15-17. Luis Pato Maria Gomes, Beiras, Portugal, 2002.

18. Green and White Asparagus, parmesan, geoduck clams, apricot. Another beautiful dish: strips of thinly sliced green and white asparagus, topped with little piles of tastes that go well with asparagus: geoduck clam and seaweed, poached quail egg, apricot call, herb mixture, wine sorbet, pickled white asparagus. This was another dish that was on other menus, and we watched it being made all night. Very tasty.

Wine 18. Argiolas "Argolas" Vermentino, Isola dei Nuraghi, Sardinia, 2002.

19. White Pekin Duck, green garlic, Australian rainforest plums, foie gras. The duck was served three ways: poached breast, poached leg, and confit. The duck skin was crisped. The green garlic was cooked in goose fat. There was foie gras. There was more fat drippings. There was hearts of palm. An excellent dish.

Wine 19. Rosenblum "Richard Sauret Vineyard" Zinfandel, Paso Robles, 2001.

20. Frozen WillaKenzie Verjus - Thyme. A small frozen disk that you eat with tongs. Amazing thyme flavor that lasts forever in your mouth.

Wine 20. Chateur la Rouviere, Bandol, 2000.

21 Ribeye of Prime Beef, spring lettuces, morel mushrooms, smoked tongue. This is another one of those dishes that we saw being made all night. A chef would take a piece of cherrywood and light it. Then he would blow out the flame and put the smoke in an upturned glass on the plate. Under that glass would be the piece of tongue. When serving, the waiter removes the glass and the smoke aroma fills the air. Very showy. And tasty.

Wine 21. Oloroso "Pata de Gallina," Juan Garcia Juarana, Jerez, Spain.

22. Transparency of Aged Manchego, white anchovies, peppers, arugula. This is what passes as a cheese course here. It's a small plate of croutons, grilled bell peppers, grilled garlic, braised fennel, dried olives, arugula, and white anchovies, covered in a thin layer of cheese. Very tasty, but not what I'd call a cheese course.

23. Carrot-Mandarin-Smoked Paprika Leather. Probably the best fruit leather I've ever eaten.

24. Australian Finger Limes - Sugar. I don't have any notes on this dish.

25. Red Wine Braised Rhubarb, strawberries, violets, goat milk sorbet. Complicated and delicious. It's a glass with many layers. From bottom to top (also from hot to cold): red-wine braised rhubarb, violet essence, goat milk sorbet, strawberry foam, rhubarb, strawberries.

Wine 25. Forteto della Luja Brachetto "Pian dei Sogni," Piedmont, 1998.

26. Warm Guaranda Chocolate, yeast, pistachio, flax seed. Here we are at dish 26, and we get to the first one that doesn't work at all. It's kind of a deconstructed pain au chocolat. The chocolate was delicious; warmed 71% dark chocolate from Ecuador. It was served on a flaxseed pistachio tuille that didn't really add anything. Accompanying this was pistachio puree, oil, flaxseed sprouts, and yeast sorbet. Honestly, I didn't like anything but the chocolate.

Wine 26. Vinhos Barbeito "Special Reserve," Malmsey, Mareira.

27. Tripod Hibiscus. Hibiscus popsicle served very prettily. Nice taste and presentation.

And that was it. We had a room at the Homestead Hotel upstairs, which made things very easy. And the next morning we flew home.

Bruce

[mnfoodie]

A couple of observations from the meal Bruce and I had:

I wouldn't want to work for one of the sous chefs. He gave his guys a look that would kill at least twice while we were watching. That felt momentarily really tense, in an atmosphere that's otherwise very calm and almost clinical.

Only one of the line guys appeared to pay any attention to us at all. I looked up with this fabulous mouthful of truffle, and he was watching my reaction. He gave me the barest raised eyebrow of a question, "How is it?" It was unbelievably good, of course. I hope I communicated that without actually running over and leaping into his arms and promising to have his children. Knowing that this guy really cared that his food was wonderful made that little course even more enjoyable for me. It's cool to make it just the way you're supposed to, just the way you learned to. It's a whole other thing to care about the person who is there to enjoy all the talent, work, and inspiration.

[mnfoodie]

Oooh, yeah. They gave us 5 kinds of homemade chewing gum each as a little take-away. They were all very good, and blew excellent bubbles.

[Louisa Chu]

The Australian Finger Limes and Sugar were the sophisticated lollipops served in a clear bud vase - two small delicate disks of sugar, sandwiching pink cells of the finger limes, barely heated under the salamander - so the sugar just embraces the lime cells. Like most of the other courses it's a one-bite experience - the brittle breakthrough of sugar sweetness to the juicy tartness of lime.

One of the hidden components of the chocolate dessert is a disk of Sierra Nevada Porter Stout gelee - under the flaxseed nougatine. Personally I loved that dish - but when I sampled it they were using the Ocumare - both chocolates from Chocovic. The concept behind the dish was simply a chocolate bar left in a hot car - that state of chocolate when it still barely holds its form - when you can still read "Hershey" on the bar itself - but is nearly liquid to the touch - a seductive and elusive concept I think. To achieve that effect, the chocolate is heated through with light bulbs - but carefully monitored and turned as needed. As simple as that sounds - the light bulb breakthrough - literally and figuratively speaking - came from trial and error experiments over the course of two weeks. The accompanying elements were added to enhance the other perceived undertones of the chocolate - primarily an earthiness. The pistachio puree I especially liked simply because it had no added colour - it's usually a pale green in France that I dislike. The sprouts are grown in-house - quite successfully from the sun that pours into the pastry kitchen. Bruce, I can completely respect that it did not appeal to you - but I don't understand it as an deconstructed pain au chocolat at all.

mnfoodie, rest assured that both sous-chefs are officers and gentlemen - and the fact that they might reprimand the crew with just a look is a testament to their professionalism. And EVERYONE in that kitchen cares about the food.

Next time - go ahead - jump in their arms - cooks need a LITTLE extra excitement sometimes - but maybe AFTER service.

[mnfoodie]

To achieve that effect, the chocolate is heated through with light bulbs

How perfectly excellent! Easy-Bake Oven technology! The guys in the lab at Hasbro would be so proud! :-)

both sous-chefs are officers and gentlemen - and the fact that they might reprimand the crew with just a look is a testament to their professionalism

I'm absolutely certain that's true. I was just expressing my surprise over it, because all my cooking experience was with a bunch of roughnecks not unlike those Bourdain so charmingly describes in the early chapters of "Kitchen Confidential." I was surprised by a moment in this kitchen that was clearly, "You didn't hand me that spoon I asked you to and now I will disembowel you with my eyes." It just felt sort of over-the-top and a little mean. I'm making much of very little here: the kitchen was quiet, well-ordered, and efficient, and a pleasure to observe for the entire evening.

EVERYONE in that kitchen cares about the food.

Of course they do! But one guy let me know that he cared about my reaction to it. It wasn't the common and unwelcome (though this didn't happen at Trio) waiter's question, "So, how's everything?" It was more: "I made that for you. Did you like it?" Not in the sense of running a business and insuring customer satisfaction (important though those things are). The query was more like, "Do you like the food I made? Is it as good as I think it is? Isn't it wonderful?" For a second, the whole show-stopping business of a high-end restaurant really crystalized, and that moment was simply about the food. Not the swank surroundings, nor the knowledgeable and pleasant waiters, nor the thoughtful presentation of ... well, everything. Just the food.

Chef G. came to talk to us after they were cooked out, and he asked questions and listened to what we had to say and was thoughtful, interested in our reactions and interesting in what he had to say. That he cared about our impressions was never in doubt.

Am I making any sense here?

[ducphat30]

"Do you like the food I made? Is it as good as I think it is? Isn't it wonderful?" For a second, the whole show-stopping business of a high-end restaurant really crystalized, and that moment was simply about the food.

I think that this is one of the best attributes of Trio, because there is a common goal of producing incredible food. I also think that this is a common attribute in the more forward thinking kitchens in America. Ideally it should always be about the food, the fact that Trio does it with such incredibly personable service, seamlessly, is amazing. As soon as I pay my Amex bill from my December visit I'm making my reso.

[yellow truffle]

I heard the rumor of a rumor at: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=42506 .  Perhaps others can provide more detail as to what they've heard and from whom.  Ideally, we could get an answer from Achatz himself.

Scott

Sadly, rumor confirmed.

[Suzi Edwards]

Food as toys? Does no one think this is contrived? Am I alone in thinking that none of these dishes sounds remotely appetizing? Just curious.

There are things you can do with small bites of food that you can't do with larger portions. That's one of the key components of this kind of meal; nothing is large.

Bruce

i think one of things that grant does very well is tranistion the meal from the single bites to the more traditional (yet still very innovative) larger plates.

[chicagowench]

Not the kitchen table, but I'm flying up to Chicago for my mom's birthday on July 16, and taking her to Trio. I was more than a little surprised that I could get a reservation on either Friday or Saturday.

I'm not entirely sure my husband will ever forgive me- I'll have been twice now, during Chef Achatz's tenure, and he will miss it entirely. Perhaps a promise of a reservation at Alinea come January....

Edited June 16, 2004 by chicagowench (log)

[bluekale]

I loved your review of Trio, especially since I had the honor of eating there this past weekend as well (it was only the four-course menu in my case, although we ended up getting seven courses anyhow). The pictures are amazing; I wasn't sure I was allowed to bring a camera when I went, so I decided not to. If anyone is interested in an alternate review of Trio's more modest (heh) offerings, I will post a description of what I ate soon.

As for the rest of my trip to the Chicago area, I also came home stuffed. Apart from Trio, I highly recommend Mia Francesca for dinner and The Bagel for brunch, both of which are in the Wrigleyville area.

[ronnie_suburban]

I finally had the pleasure of dining at Trio with Chef Achatz at the helm and I was absolutely blown away by my experience there.

I'm very late to this party and there isn't really much more to say that hasn't been said. Still, I will try to add a little bit (hopefully something new) to the conversation. I will not be providing photos or a course by course description of our meal. Those who've already done so have done a far better job than I ever could.

Dining at Trio was a unique experience. I want to emphasize that owner Henry Adaniya, Chef Grant Achatz and the entire crew treated us like royalty. The service we received was not only unprecedented in its professionalism but also friendly, focused and highly knowledgeable. There is a passion at Trio that starts at the top and touches every single person who enters the space. The genuine enthusiasm of those with whom my party interacted was delightful, infectious.

Yes, it was a fantastic meal but it was also so much more. More than any other food experience I've ever had, the meal which the Trio team served us utilized all our senses. We opted for the 28 course Tour de Force and the accompanying wine pairings. Throughout the evening we were amused, delighted, surprised and satisfied on numerous levels. At the core of it, the meal was a 5-hour, glorious ride where the Trio imaginations communicated with our imaginations--over and over again.

Several courses utilized utensils and serving pieces that were specifically designed for those courses. We were told that the pieces had been designed by an architect friend of Chef Achatz. In this realm, form was not only beautiful, but also followed function with precision.

Throughout our meal, I kept thinking that the experience reminded me of someone or something yet I couldn't quite identify what. Then, 4 atomizers in a small bowl filled with ice, arrived at our table. We were told that the course was "virtual shrimp cocktail." We spritzed the atomizers into our mouths and sure enough, their contents tasted exactly like shrimp cocktail. It was in that moment when I figured out who Chef Achatz reminded me of--Willy Wonka--and I mean that in the most complimentary of ways. The only difference being that Chef Achatz is real and possesses an intensity that could boil Wonka's chocolate river with a glance.

Dinner at Trio was a singular experience which changed me. I am truly grateful that I had the chance to eat there before Chef Achatz moves on. What lay ahead for him and for Trio, promises to be wonderful.

=R=

Edits: typo, clarity

[Bicycle Lee]

I would like to know where one would purchase atomizers.

Anyone know?

[Suzi Edwards]

marshall fields?

[Suzi Edwards]

Throughout our meal, I kept thinking that the experience reminded me of someone or something yet I couldn't quite indentify what.

Some experiences are characterised by an absence of thought, others by an overactivity of it. You can be so in the moment you just experience and can't think through it to make connections. Other times it all just drops into place. Trio was like the former for me. So many things happening, tangents running all over the place. It took me two visits to work out why I loved it.

[ronnie_suburban]

Some experiences are characterised by an absence of thought, others by an overactivity of it. You can be so in the moment you just experience and can't think through it to make connections. Other times it all just drops into place. Trio was like the former for me. So many things happening, tangents running all over the place. It took me two visits to work out why I loved it.

I think that's why I especially enjoyed the length of our meal. By the end of it, I was able to gain some perspective (critical distance) on our entire experience--especially the beginning of it.

=R=

[robyn]

I would like to know where one would purchase atomizers.

Anyone know?

Any perfume department at a high end store (like Neiman Marcus). Robyn

[ronnie_suburban]

I would like to know where one would purchase atomizers.

Anyone know?

Any perfume department at a high end store (like Neiman Marcus). Robyn

Here is a picture of one of the atomizers we were served...(we asked to take home our empties and they gave us full ones for the road )

The background is a 3x5" notecard and you can see the edge of the notecard at the top of the frame. This appears to be a single-use, micro-unit. Please forgive the poor focus of the photograph (distant macro shot w/out tri-pod). I just wanted everyone to be able to visualize what I was talking about. Still not sure where one might procure these...

=R=