Blue Hill (NYC)

[Steve Plotnicki]

You know exactly what I'm talking about. It has to do with a certain wager.

[Wilfrid]

Macrosan hasn't been luring people into games of spoof again, has he?

[cabrales]

In yesterday's NYT dining section, there was an article on co-executive chefs entitled "Two Chefs, One Broth". Discussed are, among others, (1) Patricia Yeo and Pino Maffeo at Pazo -- it's a bit clear in my mind Yeo is more the "lead", although she's very generous with according credit to Maffeo; (2) D Forley and M Otsuka; (3) Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger at Border Grill in Santa Monica; and (4) Chefs Dan Barber and Mike Anthony from Blue Hill.

Excerpts from the article:

"One key lesson was about communication . . . . 'I'm a bit sensitive,' Mr Barber acknowledged. 'If Mike's forgotten to tell me that he put yellow watermelon in the tomato coupe on my night off, and I come in the next day and find out from one of the cooks, it stings me. I think, 'What did he go and change it for?' But ultimately if it improves the dish, we both win.' . . . Mr Barber of blue Hill noted: 'Most people would think it's easier to work with a co-chef because you would noly have to do half the work. But it doesn't actually happen taht way. When you're working by yourself, you can quickly make all the hundreds of decisons that need to be made every day without having to stop and discuss every little thing. It takes more thought and energy than working by yourself.'"

Below are excerpts from an old thread on the co-chef point:

A note for members without ready access to Food & Wine magazine: Michael Anthony's mention of eGullet is in a piece on the best new chefs in the US (there are a number mentioned). Each chef generally has description in a column the width of 1/3 of a page.

There is a picture of the summer lettuce soup with pickled eggplant that Anthony created with co-chef Dan Barber, also named one of the best new chefs. Barber describes his favorite childhood food: "My aunt made scrambled eggs for me when I had tonsillitis. I still remember the wonderful taste of the eggs."  

Does anyone know if there is precedent for this--"co-chefs" each nominated for the same award or achieving comparable recognition at the same time?

I don't know why, but I find this aspect more appealing and intriguing than anything else.

Steve Klc -- I agree the topic is fascinating. When our dining party was at the restaurant, the two co-chefs ... came to greet our table together....

On co-chefs receiving comparable recognition, it is likely the twins Jacques and Laurent Pourcel at Montpellier's Jardin des Sens have received the same award. Of course, they were equally honored when Michelin conferred the third star, although it could be said the star was given to the restaurant (?).  Similarly, there are many father-son combinations that have likely won the same award. Jacques Lameloise and his father were both cooking when Lameloise won its third star. Same for Jean-Michel Lorain and his father, with Michelin specifically mentioning the contributions of both. It is likely Jean and Pierre Troisgros have won the same award, as another example. There are likely many morel. However, I cannot think of a situation where two unrelated-by-blood chefs have won the same award as co-chefs.  

Thank you cabrales for weighing in on the "co-chef" issue--and like you, I'd assign little significance to a father-son-daughter arrangement, though I'm sure it has some other interest.

No, in the very competitive world of higher-end cooking--and it doesn't get more competitive than in NY--it seems rare, if ever, that experience, age, egos and the media allow something like this to occur.  Usually it is clearly a paternalistic executive chef/chef-de-cuisine setup or the cute husband/wife chef and pastry/baker type. There seems to be talent and generosity co-existing in this little restaurant, though, and it does my heart good to see both recognized.  I plan to visit soon as well.

In my experience, at the elite level the truly talented chefs and pastry chefs have no trouble whatsoever co-existing and sharing and collaborating--it is lesser or immature chefs that grab the spotlight, forgetting how lucky they are to be where they are or who has gone before.

Edited January 2, 2003 by cabrales (log)

[jaybee]

Five of us dined at Blue Hill last night, including the charming StellaBella, who has graced us with her presence here in loud, fast-paced New York, up from the rural and bucolic surroundings of her home town. We started at 7 PM, The room was never more than 3/4 full. Plotnicki was celebrity spotting all night. The pace was leisurely and relaxed, and the round table allowed for much easy conversation all around. Michael came to our table twice and was his usual delightful self.

The tasting menu included five fish courses, one beef course and two dessert courses. With the exception of the sea bass, which was largely bland, the dishes were delicate, interesting and very tasty. Owing to the scintilating conversation, spurred on by four bottles of excellent wine brought by JB(1) and SP(3), my recollections of the dishes are not very good. I recall an eserbeche )sp?) of mackeral with a turnip sauce, poached cod in a reduction of mushroom sauce with small onions and squid, salmon belly with an apple compote, sea bass, turbot (preparation unclear) and salt beef with an onion compote? Did I miss anything. Dessert included a yummy chocolate bread pudding, a pineapple compote and other things I ate but can't recall.

Any of our tablemates are more than welcome to correct, modify or otherwise properly report what we ate. I enjoyed the food. It was not "knock me off the chair" wonderful, but it was a very good meal of a kind I have not had in many restaurants.

The wines were: Romarantin 2000, Paradis, Chassagne Montrachet 1990 (grower?), Echezeaux 1969 LeRoy, Cote Rotie 1989 Grower?)

[Steve Plotnicki]

One of Charlie's Angels was in the house.

The white Burg was a 1990 Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon and the other wine was a 1989 Michel Ogier Cote Rotie. Both drank really well. But I thought the restaurant wasn't firing on all cylinders last night. The best dishes were the mackeral and the beef (what kind of steak did they call it again?) But the company was definitely three star.

[southern girl]

oooh...1990 Leflaive PM Clavoillon....yummy

[Toby]

The beef was very nice. It was flatiron steak, I think?? The parsnip puree with the mackerel was delicious, very sweet. I looked up that unpronounceable word -- escabeche. (I think there are other spellings with a "v"??) Hot vinegar and some sort of citrus juice was poured over the mackerel. I'm not sure what they did at Blue Hill, the recipe I'm looking at first sauteed the fish and then poured a vinegar mixture over the fish and let it steep in a terracotta dish. The mackerel didn't taste as if it had been sauteed. My favorite was the little cup of custard with an oyster and some raw soy beans, that reminded someone of wonton soup. There was a lot of very delicious wine so the meal is hazy.

Stellabella is as nice in person as she is in her posts, and we hope she'll come to visit us often.

[stefanyb]

Youse guys forgot the oyster on savory custard with edamame. It was the highlight of my meal, food-wise. Otherwise the highlight was, of course, StellaBella and our knockout conversation Symposium style .

edit:Toby very sneakily posted while I was composing

Edited January 8, 2003 by stefanyb (log)

[stefanyb]

The beef was very nice.  It was flatiron steak, I think??

Yes, thats right. I asked him to repeat that and he further explained that it was from the shoulder. Its a cut I've never heard of but since its triangular they nicknamed it flatiron, I guess.

Edited January 8, 2003 by stefanyb (log)

[Steve Plotnicki]

Yes Stefany vetted everything we did. She would grab my arm before I was able to put the fork in my mouth to make sure it had the right amount of food on it. And before I could talk to the waiter, she had to clear what I was going to say. Her husband is such a lucky fellow.

[stefanyb]

Yes Stefany vetted everything we did. She would grab my arm before I was able to put the fork in my mouth to make sure it had the right amount of food on it. And before I could talk to the waiter, she had to clear what I was going to say. Her husband is such a lucky fellow.

Ironically, you happen to be right on the money .

[jaybee]

Oh, But I ...aaaarggghhh...(Notice: post removed for violation of the fast paced, heated, and off topic rules

[jaybee]

I loved that custard with the oyster too. And the little shot glass of mushroom consomme was delicious. The White Burgundy was the best wine of the night, IMO.

Edited January 8, 2003 by jaybee (log)

[Robert Nesta Marley]

could you talk about the romarantin, steve? or someone else? and how was the '69 leroy? singing or not?

[Ron Johnson]

How was the '89 Ogier?

I had a bottle of the '90 about six months ago and it was awesome.

[jaybee]

could you talk about the romarantin, steve? or someone else? and how was the '69 leroy? singing or not?

RNM and Ron,

I brought the Romarantin. I first tasted it in the Sologne, in the town of Romarantin, made by Tessier. We loved it. I recently found it here (not Cour Cheverny, which is made from the same grapes, but Romarantin) thanks to SF Joe's advice. Romarantin is an obscure varietal grape, grown on 100 year-old (pre-phyloxeria) vines in an area near the Loire. It is a hgh acid wine with both fruit and mineral tastes. It cuts through and stands up to strong tasting foods, spicy hor d'ouvres and the like. It is a good aperetif wine. After it has been opened, in the glass for awhile, it softens but does not lose its "edge." It is quite different from any other whites you may know, and some may like it others may not, but it's worth a try, in case you do.

The '69 Echezeau Leroy promised more on the nose than it delivered in the mouth. It had a wonderful fruity bouquet, deep and rich. In the mouth it tasted rather thin, with a sort of "thin" almost slightly acidic finish. Not unpleasant, but not what I would have hoped for from a great '69 Burgundy. I've had the '69 Bonne Mare and found it to be fruitier and more perfumey, fuller tasting with a good finish.

The 1990 PM was spectacular. Waves of tastes, perfumes and delicacy backed by a powerful structured wine. It made a great follow up to the smaller, more acidic Romarantin.

[Steve Plotnicki]

Let's see. I was not a fan of the Romorantin. If you like esoteric white wines like Arbois, this could be a wine for you. I found it so tight, and with an off taste, I didn't finish my glass. But it could be that 15 years from now it will bloom into something special. But I don't think I will ever like it as it was too herbal for me. The 1989 Ogier was super though. And I had a bottle of it a few years back and was disappointed as I thought it was diluted. But this one really popped out of the glass. And the Leflaive is a terrific wine for a village wine. Perfectly mature. One of the Captains at Taillevent turned me onto about 5 years ago as a wine that is perfectly ready to drink as well as offering great value for a white Burg. I have gone through almost 2 1/2 cases since then and it has been my "go to" white Burg since then. I thought the wine would be dead by now but it is still kicking and I would buy another case as I only have a few bottles left. The '69 Leroy Echezeaux was good but nothing more. Coffee and cherry flavors but relatively weak for a '69. But then again, old Burgundy is old Burgundy and it doesn't suck.

[Miss J]

Dinner with Stellabella.

Lucky New York board.

Could someone elaborate a bit on the savoury custard, oyster and edamame thing? Those three elements are among my favourite foods on earth. I'm not sure I can imagine them all together without a little more info, though.

[jaybee]

Could someone elaborate a bit on the savoury custard, oyster and edamame thing? Those three elements are among my favourite foods on earth. I'm not sure I can imagine them all together without a little more info, though.

It was warm and tasty. It came in a small glass, as in intermezzo. One oyster, poached I think. Perhaps I should have paid less attention to StellBella and more to the custard. But I'm a guy, you know.

[Robert Nesta Marley]

I recently found it here (not Cour Cheverny, which is made from the same grapes, but Romarantin) thanks to SF Joe's advice.

jaybee, was your bottling a VDQS, then?

also, did you get it at chambers st.?

steve, i do think SF joe has talked about its ability to age quite gracefully. perhaps it might be interesting to find some older bottles. but yes, i do favor savigny (and i'd be interested in finding some vin jaune), although it doesn't seem like the two have much in common save for their offbeat ways.

too bad about the leroy.

[Miss J]

It was warm and tasty.  It came in a small glass, as in intermezzo.  One oyster, poached I think.

Thank you, jaybee.

[jaybee]

jaybee, was your bottling a VDQS, then?

also, did you get it at chambers st.?

steve, i do think SF joe has talked about its ability to age quite gracefully. perhaps it might be interesting to find some older bottles. but yes, i do favor savigny (and i'd be interested in finding some vin jaune), although it doesn't seem like the two have much in common save for their offbeat ways.

RNM, I will look at the label. It is a domaine bottled wine. There are two or three growers/bottlers of Romarantin in that area. Tessier are two of them. I don't recall the name of this one. (something de Paradis) I bought it from Astor. It is not the kind of taste that Steve cottons to, but I like it quite a lot as a chilled "first" glass with hor's d'ourvres.

Vin Jaune is another matter. Chateau Chalon is the best of the class. It is sweet, not like the Romarantin.

[Steve Plotnicki]

Robert - Morrel's in Easthampton ran across a case of older Arbois a few years back and I bought a few bottles. The stuff was like Vick's sough syrup. It was so mentholated. Perfect to drink with foods that had herb crusts. Or after brushing your teeth.

[stellabella]

Imagine eating a meal that costs as much as a cashmere sweater, accompanied by wines almost as old as you are. That's my evening at Blue Hill. As Steve poured me some Leroy he asked, "So, were you born yet?" I assured him I was already walking.

For me the memorable taste was the cod in bouillabaise--I too liked the parsnip puree, Jaybee, with the flat leaf parsley leaves--I decided not to emabarass any of you by whipping out a pen and taking notes on the tablepaper, so thank god for collective memory. And egullet, of course.

I must confess, when Steve turned to me and asked, "So, did you ever watch that show Ally McBeal?" I thought I was being set up. No, I never watched that show. I thought everyone would know from my posts that I'm an intellectual. Anyway, Steve has revealed himself to be, among other things, a crackpot celeb spotter: first Lucy Liu, and then Robert Goulet, both at Blue Hill on the same night.

Jaybee and Steve, I gotta tell ya'll that those were the best wines I've ever had in my life. Well, maybe with the exception of a great bottle of Amarone at holidays. Jaybee, I REALLY liked the Romarantin, perhaps because I'm partial to whites that flirt with sweetness--it was indeed a good aperitif. Steve, I liked the Ogier better than the Leroy, too, but I'm not sure exactly in the overall scheme of things what that means because they were both so good. Can I thank you both publicly for allowing me to feel rich for an evening?

It was a wonderful evening. I'd like to do it again someday.

[stellabella]

oh, well, nevermind

Edited January 10, 2003 by stellabella (log)