The Biltmore Room

[SobaAddict70]

The Biltmore crab cake, cleverly disguised as a stuffed squash blossom, took me completely by surprise. The squash blossom, fried to a crisp, provided the necessary exterior crunch, a textural contrast to the creamy filling of crab meat in béchamel sauce. It is a seafood doughnut, really, whose smooth, unctuous filling gets the condiment it deserves, a spicy mango dipping sauce, offset by a cool corn and avocado salad.

Biltmore Room (William Grimes) (from today's DIGEST. You may have to scroll down for the appropriate link.)

With the introduction of Biltmore Room (290 Eighth Avenue near 25th Street), Chef Gary Robins, formerly of Mi, Aja and Match, returns -- this time to Chelsea Heights, with pan-Asian fusion that borders on dazzling.

Has anyone visited or had any experiences here?

On another tangent, are new three-star restaurants in short supply in New York these days?

Discuss,

Soba

[Suzanne F]

YAY!!!!!!!!!! Gary finally gets the recognition he deserves.

Remember, I worked for him.

[Holly Moore]

My first reaction upon reading the article was to wish the restaurant the best of luck. Three stars. Terrific for them. And scary.

How does a restaurant handle evolving from apparently being a relative face in the crowd to a NY Times 3 Star restaurant? Not just the influx of business, which will probably be overwhelming, but the nature of the business, the high expectations of the demanding New York Times 3 Star restaurant diner.

That, more than Rocco's, would be an interesting story to follow.

[SobaAddict70]

A question then: is it more preferable to aspire to the welcoming arms of safer pastures than to culinary heights of greatness? Because I thought it's usually the other way around, but what the hell do I know.

Soba

[Holly Moore]

I wasn't speaking to aspirations. Rather I was wondering about the challenge and the effect on a restaurant suddenly thrust into NY Times triple stardom. In NYC, especially, and at least for the next few weeks, I can see three stars being a mixed blessing.

[SobaAddict70]

I know, but its more of a philosophical inquiry if you will. Not directed at you Holly, but pls feel free to answer it if you want.

I have a feeling based on the following cues picked up in Grimes' review

Gary Robins, the executive chef, has been listed as missing in action ever since leaving Mi, a modest sushi restaurant, which he lifted to unexpected heights with a subtle, imaginative menu devoted to Asian fusion cuisine.

Mr. Robins vanished into thin air, leaving behind some beautiful memories, as he did at his previous restaurants, Aja and Match.

that BOH is probably up to it. FOH might be a different story entirely. Who knows, time will tell.

Soba

[Suzanne F]

I haven't been in touch with Gary in quite a while, so I don't know who's cooking for him. But there used to be a group of cooks who followed him from place to place. (The only drawback was his short tenure, so one could not be assured of having the job for very

long. ) So they understand his food and how to execute it well and fast. And once you learn how to do it, it's not all that hard.

FOH is indeed a different story entirely; it's more up to the management and owners rather than the chef (Rocco notwithstanding).

Edited November 12, 2003 by Suzanne F (log)

[SobaAddict70]

Interesting to note that the commentary regarding service and decor was minimal this time around. I'd say the food's the showpiece it's meant to be. Or maybe Grimes is becoming more like his predecessor.

Soba

[daisy17]

With mention of The Biltmore Room in this week's New Yorker and my upcoming visit tomorrow night, I thought that I'd revive this thread and see if anyone had more to share . . . . Food recommendations are always helpful! Many thanks in advance.

[Felonius]

I ate there at the bar once last fall and thought the food was excellent. I was quite surprised at the quality of the meal, as I'd never heard of the place before and assumed it was more about the setting and hype than the food. I'll have to give it another try.

[jogoode]

With mention of The Biltmore Room in this week's New Yorker and my upcoming visit tomorrow night, I thought that I'd revive this thread and see if anyone had more to share . . . . Food recommendations are always helpful! Many thanks in advance.

Welcome, daisy! I look forward to hearing about your meal.

[gmi3804]

Is The Biltmore Room an appropriate gathering place for a late, post-theatre supper for a group of 8-10? What's the noise level like? What kind of tables do they have (i.e., large rounds, corner booths, etc.)?

Thanks!

[daisy17]

The dining room is one large, moderately noisy room, with banquettes along the walls and deuces and four tops in the middle. I don't recall seeing any large rounds. While the decor is somewhat old-school and sophisticated (marble, mirrors, high ceilings) it has a modern flair to it that I really liked. It very much has its own style - I couldn't think of another restaurant that it even resembled. There were not many (or even any) large parties when we were there. I would definitely recommend making reservations for a large group. They were booked when we were there (a Friday night).

The food was excellent, no question about it. The room was stifling when we sat down, so much so that we commented to our server who immediately spoke with the manager and adjusted the temperature. (She actually seemed relieved that someone said something . . . and we were equally relieved when the AC went on.) Service was efficient and helpful but not friendly or warm. Our server knew the menu very well and made some good recommendations. In all, a very satisfying meal.

[ellenesk]

Looking for biltmore room suggestions for dinner

[Suzanne F]

You have to like busy, busy food. This is not a place for simple fare.

We were there about a month ago for our anniversary and had a very good meal. (Full disclosure: I worked for Gary at three different restaurants, so he sent out some extras. )

The "Tataki of hamachi" (I think it was hamachi) was great: pristine fish, and the cucumber sorbet that accompanies is a zillion times better than the version at rm.

Quail (another app) was also very good: delicately smoked, very moist and juicy, not overly sauced.

The crab-cake stuffed squash blossom: eh. Very nicely fried, but short on flavor.

Veal chop was cooked just right, and all the many, many other items on the plate went with it very well. But there was an awful lot going on there.

Ditto the dal-crusted halibut. Fabulous pieces of fish, cooked perfectly, but with almost too much accompanying.

Of desserts, the panna cotta with blueberry sorbet was one of the best things we've ever tasted. Chocolate tart was quite good, very (maybe too) rich. Cherry Biscuit -- sort of a monster financiere -- was good but gloppy.

Service can be, well, iffy. I absolutely HATED our waiter, as did the table next to us, who upon inquiring where their dessert might be about fifteen minutes after ordering, got a very snippy answer from her. But the managers made it up to them, and everyone else was pretty good.

[oakapple]

According to Eater, Biltmore Room has closed.

[oakapple]

According to Florence Fabricant in today's NYT food section, it has merely closed temporarily for a summer renovation.

[lizard]

According to Florence Fabricant in today's NYT food section, it has merely closed temporarily for a summer renovation.

←

They will not reopen as a full-service restaurant, but will reopen as a lounge with limited food. This is per the restaurant staff.