In and Out

[Jason Perlow]

Russ:

What cuisines and chefs and restaurants are currently "In" and "Out" in the California and L.A. food scene?

What trends and restaurants make your skin crawl? Which ones do you like? What's the next big thing to come out of L.A?

[russ parsons]

Boy Jason, that's really hard to say, beyond personal reactions. I've talked about some of the restaurants I like a lot. I should at Campanile to that list. I've had some very fine meals there. I've also had some that were not so fine. But I've been going since Mark and Nancy opened the place, so I guess that says something. I like Suzanne Goin's food, particularly at AOC. I think as she matures and continues to simplify her food will continue to improve. I really like Michael Cimarusti's food at Water Grill, too. He seems to me to be the guy in LA most into cutting edge technique. I haven't eaten at Sona yet, but that's got a terrific buzz.

But really, these are questions better asked of David Shaw. People never believe me, but I really don't eat out all that often. I'll have maybe 8 or 9 big deal meals a year and I try to have 3 or 4 of those at the French Laundry. I'm much happier eating at home, either mine or at friends'.

As far as hot trends out of LA, the ones I'd most like to see getting more attention are the sub-cuisines of Japan, particularly more kappo cooking. There's some great stuff out there.

And all trends make my skin crawl. I am a culinary reactionary (how's that for a book title?). Good food is good food.

[Jason Perlow]

Well, get David Shaw on eGullet!

What sort of things do you like to cook at home then? What's your comfort food?

[russ parsons]

My cooking changes with the time of year (spoken like a stereotypical Californian). Right now I'm getting back into roasting and braising. At this time of year I like things that take time and develop complex flavors. I will put in a plug for the book, there are some killer braises in there, including some high-heat stuff that is just amazing. Leg of lamb at 400 degrees for 5 hours!

For me, the ultimate comfort food is scrambled eggs. I start them with half the butter, cook them over medium-low heat. When they start to curdle solid, I beat in the other half of the butter to stop the cooking. Serve this on buttered toast and it will cure anything from the blues to cancer.

[bloviatrix]

I'm much happier eating at home, either mine or at friends'.

Considering your status as a food writer, are friends afraid to cook for you? How do you get them to overcome their wariness?

[Jason Perlow]

For me, the ultimate comfort food is scrambled eggs. I start them with half the butter, cook them over medium-low heat. When they start to curdle solid, I beat in the other half of the butter to stop the cooking. Serve this on buttered toast and it will cure anything from the blues to cancer.

Do you like french/euro butters or american butters like Plugra better?

Eggs? I'd appreciate learning what egg dishes (non-dessert) sampled at a restaurant or in recipes that you have prepared that have been particularly memorable for you. In addition, your input on when humor can play a significant role in a dish (with any available examples) would be of considerable interest to me.

No, I'm kidding, you don't have to answer the last two questions if you don't want to.

[russ parsons]

Yes, i do find that people are reluctant to cook for me. Which is a shame, because I'm never critical, I'll help out when invited and I always bring lots of wine. (Reminds me of when my daughter was young and we were going to an adult dinner at some friends and had to tell her she couldn't go. She wailed "But I won't eat much!").

As for butter, I'm a big fan of Plugra and not just because at Trader Joe's it's cheaper than teh grocery store's.

Probably the most memorable egg dishes for me have been the white truffle custard at French Laundry and a somewhat similar dish at Citronelle last year. Michel R. glue-gunned handles on the tops of each of the eggs. amazing.

I do find that humor in cooking is treacherous. It needs to be very subtle and not the point of the dish at all (the point of the dish, of course, is simply to be delicious).