[PDX] BBQ...

[Human Bean]

Reo's Ribs in Aloha:

After passing by this place on my way somewhere, I finally decided to try it. It's less than 10 minutes from where I live, but I never knew quite where it was, and I was jonesing for some BBQ on a Saturday night. Advance word from e-MSG (above) was "mediocre," the Citysearch poll from Sweet Willie (also above) was 7th best (worse than Tony Roma's??? Ewww, can't be good). Also, I'd heard that they were spendy.

So, I got some takeout. Er, eventually. They have a sign in the restaurant saying, "This is not fast food" (or words to that effect). Granted, it was a Saturday night, but when I phoned in my order, they said there'd be an hour wait. I was willing to wait; I wasn't jonesing THAT bad, but wanted BBQ.

Executive summary: okay; expensive; if you need to cross the Wilamette (or Columbia) River to get there, there are better options.

I had a half-rack of pork ribs ($12) with sides of red beans and rice and cole slaw ($2 each for about 8 fl. oz.)

The pork: They say they are "Southern Country Cooking Mississippi Style." I have no specific knowledge of Mississippi style BBQ. Be that as it may, I'd have to say that the smoke was fine; the cooking was okay - moist, not quite as falling-off-the-bone as I'd like, but flavorful overall. The sauce (red) was okay, but rather too sweet for me. They don't offer multiple sauce options; the only alternative is "HOT HOT HOT Barbecue Sauce - WARNING test first" which I haven't yet tried, but I suspect is something that a fan of southern Asian cuisine wouldn't be worried about.

Red beans and rice: Boring. Nothing to write home about. My benchmark for reds-n-rice is a Jeff Smith recipe, which may or may not be authentic, but is similar to what I've had in other PDX BBQ joints. I don't have an 'authentic' reference for this, but Reo's was lacking in any character; thin slices of sausage were prominent, but the sausage may as well have been hot dogs, since they didn't make any impression at all.

Cole slaw: This one, I just don't have any reference points. As takeout, it was chopped cabbage with dressing on the side in two little cups. The dressing seemed like, roughly, generic italian oil-and-vinegar salad dressing with a lot of sugar syrup added. Adding about a third of the provided dressing to the cabbage gave an interesting result, but I have no idea what was intended.

Overall, I'd hate to say that it's mediocre, merely not worth the trip if you've got easier alternatives. (Damning with faint praise? Maybe, but there aren't a lot of other choices in the 'boring western 'burbs' Jim Dixon). I'll try them again, but I have the advantage of being close.

[bbqboy]

That was an accurate review of Reo's, HB. I've eaten there once, but it's not worth going out of the way to get this food. I don't know what Mississippi style means either, and I'm confused about

the confluence of "country style" and BBQ, 'cuz they aren't the same thing to me. Growing up in KC, I've always preferred cafeteria style presentations. Who can stand to wait with the smell of Q

wafting through the air? If they started cooking 12 hours before, the meat should already be there, or they've run out. Oh well. Plane tickets are cheap. I've still got to get back up there to try LOW. Does anyone serve Hand cut fries(shoot, just fries) with their Q in the greater Portlandopolis? I always get the faint idea that none of these folks that establish places could exist in their native locales. Am I wrong? MSG, I've read your raves about chef rodrigo and looking foward to trying those lamb ribs, etc.

[ExtraMSG]

The couple times I've been to Reo's, I had to wait less than 15 minutes. I think it depends on when you hit them. They took it directly out of the pit, checking it to see if it was done, so they must be timing it, probably staggering the start times, rather than reheating. I think their ribs are decent, worth eating if you're on that side of the hills and have a hankering for ribs. I know some people have suggest Stanford's instead, though. They're clearly not as good as LOW, Yam Yam's, or Campbell's. I think they're slightly worse than Cannon's, for those that have tried them. Both Cannon's and Reo's tend to be a bit fatty, often giving you the shoulder piece from the spare ribs. I like that fine, but many people don't.

[fierydrunk]

First, what is LOW?

As far as BBQ, I don't bother eating it in PDX anymore. I am from Memphis, so I am spoiled and I like it a certain way and if it isn't Memphis-style, I don't like it. I want smoky, cooked all day and night, spicy/sweet sauce with pickled cole slaw PORK. Oh yeah, it would be nice to get this with a side that cost under $8. That is one thing I can't get about PDX--the overpriced "Soul Food". Everytime I would go to Doris' or Soup n Suds, I would come out blowing a $10 bill on mediocre food...not a good feeling in the soul.

But, as I am not in Memphis but once a year and I do crave the Southern cooking, usually I cook myself or hope someone fires up a grill and wants to do a potluck BBQ. I have to say I have enjoyed fried chicken from Doris and Soup n Suds and even the Delta. Yam Yams is awful everytime I have been. Can anyone reccomend a truly Southern-style place to rock this jaded Memphis gurl off her high horse???

[bbqboy]

soul food for a trendy white audience means it's priced accordingly. I concur with all your comments. Low is chef rodrigo, originally from Texas. I'll reserve judgement, expecting good things.

Sides, yes! BBQ is not supposed to be gourmet, just good food. Gawd, how I long for some fresh cut fries and pickles. The trinity of white bread ,pickles, and grease seems to be lost on these recreations. oh well! It's not worth moving back to KC, or Memphis. Bill in Southern Oregon

[ExtraMSG]

Remember, the min wage, cost of living, cost of doing business, etc, is much higher in Portland than it is in most of the south. It's like comparing the prices for a taco in Mexico to the price in the US.

LOW is a stand at the corner of 6th and Hawthorne that serves Central Texas style BBQ, brisket and pork ribs. They also do lamb ribs at the Portland Farmer's Market. You get cole slaw, sweet pickles, and 2 slices of white bread with your brisket. No white bread with the ribs, I don't think. I can't remember the exact price, but they have a regular and large order now of each. They also serve chopped beef sandwiches.

[fierydrunk]

I hear you, but Memphis adds a hefty sales tax and still, stuff is CHEAP. Even at the popular joints like Ellen's, a meat and 3 sides (hefty servings too) with tea is no more than $7. Maybe food in general is cheaper there than here, but still. Hollis had a good point when he said, "If it was good food, you wouldn't care if you paid the $10...its just that it is a mediocre attempt so it doesn't feel worth it."

Anyway, one place I haven't tried is The Tropicana on Williams--it is all fixed up now, anyone been?

[chefrodrigo]

I hear you, but Memphis adds a hefty sales tax and still, stuff is CHEAP. Even at the popular joints like Ellen's, a meat and 3 sides (hefty servings too) with tea is no more than $7. Maybe food in general is cheaper there than here, but still. Hollis had a good point when he said, "If it was good food, you wouldn't care if you paid the $10...its just that it is a mediocre attempt so it doesn't feel worth it."

Anyway, one place I haven't tried is The Tropicana on Williams--it is all fixed up now, anyone been?

I think its mostly the cost of the food here. You can buy brisket and ribs at any supermarket in Texas for half of what they cost wholesale here.

If any of you want to go to a big bbq cookoff this month there is one in Lincoln City on the 17th and 18th at the Chinook Winds Casino. That will be the only one that Kyle and I will enter this year. It looks like it should be a good time.

Rodney

[ExtraMSG]

That sucks. I don't get back until the 18th. I'd love to go take some pics and do a writeup. I've been lazy on my site lately. I should have done a bunch of work while I had the chickenpox, but I just gained 10 lbs eating ice cream instead.

Good luck!

[fierydrunk]

I'll be by the stand at 6th & Hawthorne soon! BBQ cookoffs give me bad memories of Memphis (when the whole Downtown smells so much like smoke and you can't get the smell off your clothes & hair for a whole day!!!)...

[ExtraMSG]

Thought I'd hit one of the few BBQ spots that I haven't tried in Portland, Russell Street Barbecue.

The restaurant is pretty nice (for a BBQ joint) inside. It's clean, open, and pleasant.

I got there at the end of the lunch rush and made a takeout order and was told it would take 20 minutes. 45 minutes later, I had my food. They gave me a free pecan praline to apologize. 45 minutes, though, is a hell of a long wait for BBQ.

However, for really good BBQ, I'd gladly accept the wait. But Russell Street's Q isn't really good. It's okay, though.

I got the meatapalooza ($15, overpriced), the three meat combo. I chose the pulled pork, baby back ribs, and beef brisket.

The worst of the three were the ribs. The texture reminded me of poached chicken -- not braised chicken, poached chicken. The ribs weren't adequately smokey, imo, and I suspect that they're par-boiled. They were also small and not very meaty. I generally prefer spare ribs, though.

The next best item was the brisket. One of their mistakes may be explained on the back of their menu: "We provide the freshest natural meats, very lean and never fed animal proteings or hormones." It's the lean part that raises my suspicions. This is BBQ folks -- a method of cooking, like braising, where you are, essentially, purposefully overcooking the meat. It needs fat to render and lubricate the sinews. RS's brisket is too dry. It's tender (probably too much so, since it's in lots of little pieces) and adequately smokey. There's a slight bark, but not enough to make up for the dryness.

A little better is the pulled pork. It wasn't really any less dry, but the flavor was a little nicer and the texture a little better.

The back of their menu holds another clue as to why their Q may not be as good as one would hope: "In our pursuit of regional barbecue, we have found that while different meats are regional, the real difference lies in the sauce."

Sauce should not be the first thing mentioned when you talk about your BBQ. It's like basing an opinion of McDonald's french fries on the ketchup. Their passion for sauce was apparent when I received my meats covered in sauce even though I asked for it plain.

Again, it's not bad (it's no Big Daddy's, that's for sure), but it's not LOW or Campbell's. It's mediocre BBQ.

[ExtraMSG]

Trying to get more comprehensive still in my Portland BBQ experiences. Hit Doris' today with duckduck. She got the rib combo and I got the pork ribs. I probably should have got something else so we could try more stuff.

Well, their pork ribs are not good. They're big, but dry, not tender, and difficult to eat at times. They might be as bad as those at Big Daddy's.

Luckily, my companion remembered that one of their ribs was good and one was bad, so she got the combo. The beef ribs are much, much better. They were falling off the bone tender and moist, the sinews nicely lubricated.

I don't know how smoky the meat actually was since I forgot to ask for sauce on the side. I so much prefer sauce on the side. There was a little bit of a smoke ring on the pork ribs, though. But the beef ribs could have easily been braised instead of smoked. Either way they were still good.

The sides were okay, nothing special, and the sweet potato pie was okay, but nothing special either.

The people were very nice and it's a pleasant little place with a patio out front.

Prices are okay. Lunches come with one side while dinners come with two. Most lunches are $7.25 to $8.25 and most dinners are about $3 more. I hope you get more meat at that price. I assume you do. They serve lunch until 4 pm.

They have a specialty of the house I'd like to try: oxtails. If their beef ribs are any indication, they should be good. You can also order ala cart. $10.50 for a half slab of ribs. $18.50 for a full slab. They also have catfish, fried chicken, and some other stuff.

I'd like to try Tropicana and Clay's next, though it may be a while. Also, there's a place off the same exit as the Berry Empire, Rob's or something -- just a little cart -- that's never been open when I drive by. Anyone try it? I think that might be the Aurora exit.

Anywhere else? Here's what I've tried (* by my favs): *LOW, *Campbell's, *Yam Yam's (as much for the buffet as anything), Cannon's, Russell Street, Reo's, Doris's, Buster's, Big Daddy's.

[duckduck]

Hey! There's my lunch again! Yes, there was a lot of smoke to the pork ribs. A lot of smoke for my sensitive tastes. The beef were a little more subtle but I thought the smoke was pretty strong on the pork. Now I remember how much I liked the beef ribs. I'll have to try the chicken some day.

[ExtraMSG]

The Aurora exit is a great I-5 stop for berries and peaches and such. But recently I noticed a sign for BBQ and hot dogs. Tried to stop by the other day, but no one was there. It's just a little trailer 1/4 mile west of the interstate. Today, they were open.

They have several dogs and sausages and seem to buy quality, so I imagine they're good. But I was there to test the Q.

They don't have a sampler plate, but I asked for one and they agreed. I got the pork loin, tri tip, and pork ribs. They also do chicken and sandwiches.

The tri tip was dry and not smokey at all. The loin was better, decently moist and tender for loin, which I don't think generally makes good Q. It also wasn't that smokey, though. The pork ribs were clearly the best of the three and pretty decent. They're only seasoned with salt and pepper, which is nice, imo. They were tender and decently moist. They're still only as good as LOW's on an off day, but they're worth eating and a good I-5 stop. The BBQ sauce is overly sweet, imo, btw.

They're open 10-5 M-S, closed on Sunday. See a couple more pics (including their menu with prices) at the link below.

http://www.extramsg.com/modules.php?set_al...=view_album.php

[ExtraMSG]

Link to my blog entry for my BBQ trip across Tennessee and Missouri and back to here. I began with LOW and ended with Campbell's. Honestly, I think our 'cue holds up. LOW actually more than holds up.

Follow this link: http://www.extramsg.com/modules.php?name=N...=article&sid=26

There are lots of pics on the photo album, too.

[fierydrunk]

Truly sorry you didn't get to Payne's or Cozy Corner in Memphis and had to settle on crap like Corky's for your Memphis experience. Hopefully you can get back there in the future to get the real deal. Did you see if Interstate or Neely's was open?

[ExtraMSG]

I don't remember who all we called. I know that Payne's was the first place on the list. But I don't know who else. I did call a lot, though, just to have options, but few were open. I was hoping someone on the SE forum would speak up about the tuna-fish textured sandwiches.

[fierydrunk]

What are the "tuna fish textured sandwiches"?

You'll have another chance--I am telling you, no one does a pulled pork sandwich like Payne's. They have the best slaw too. Corky's is one of those local chain places, akin to Pasta Veloce here. I will have to read the rest of your blog to see your opinion on the Commissary. I tend to never go to Germantown unless I had to. The best Q was definitely in town.

[bbqer]

Link to my blog entry for my BBQ trip across Tennessee and Missouri and back to here. I began with LOW and ended with Campbell's. Honestly, I think our 'cue holds up. LOW actually more than holds up.

Follow this link: http://www.extramsg.com/modules.php?name=N...=article&sid=26

There are lots of pics on the photo album, too.

←

I envy you your BBQ trip, Nick. Thanks for compiling your adventures and sharing with us. My dream still is doing the Memphis in May competition and the Jack Daniels. Maybe when I'm retired (not too far off now). In honor of the saliva you evoked in my mouth, I walked down to the market this noon and had some World Class Texas style chili. It's not brisket or ribs, but it sure tasted good. Maybe someday I'll be able to make that trip. However, your find in Denver suggests that good 'Q can be found most anywhere (and of course in PDX at LOW).

Edited September 8, 2004 by bbqer (log)

[ExtraMSG]

I'm a strong believer that good examples of a cuisine can be found most anywhere. Maybe they aren't always, but they can be. You're just not going to have the quantity that others have. Texans and Southerners like to think they have a monopoly on Q and it's just not the case. We may have to satisfy ourselves in Portland with just a couple options, but we've got something worth eating. I've had good to great BBQ in Hawaii and California, too. I still should try Seattle's offerings some day, though that will have to wait until after I try the Thai up there.

I just got back from a trip to Chicago. There's lots of great food there, and an amazing amount of diversity. But because of the hype, I was expecting to find Thai, Mexican, and Indian unmatched here at home. It's just not the case. They do have lots of options we don't have. But Cha Ba, de Leon, and Curry Leaf would be standouts in Chicago, too. As would LOW be a standout in KC or Memphis, imo.

[fierydrunk]

I know I am biased,being a Memphian, but there is something very special and particular about GOOD Memphis BBQ. I am sure LOW is good and I am sure people in Memphis would eat it and like it, but I can vouch I never thought of eating beef brisket in any of my favorite BBQ places at home.

I think the point is give credit where it is due, but don't ever forget: Some places excel for certain things for mysterious reasons. Pork BBQ ribs and sandwiches just haven't been as good anywhere else (and believe me, I have lived all over the USA and I have wished that wasn't the case many times!)

[ExtraMSG]

Here were my main problems with what I tried in Memphis:

1) The sandwiches sucked. At least to my palate, but I might as well be blunt about it. The consistency of the pork at both Central and Corky's was, as I said, like tuna fish -- mushy tuna. And there wasn't much flavor to it. I much preferred the KC style of sliced meats. While they're not what I truly prefer, it was better than the mush. I expected something akin to the pulled pork I'd had before -- closer to shredded chicken or beef than tuna.

2) When the ribs were bad, they were very bad. I've had "Memphis style" BBQ before outside of Memphis that had the same problem. It wasn't tender and juicy inside and the bark wasn't a crust, but just dried outer meat, closer to jerky than to the crust on a grilled steak or something like that.

Don't get me wrong, as I've said, Central's ribs were as good as ribs can get, truly. Once they get to that level, it's merely a matter of personal taste -- smokey, tender, moist, with a flavorful crust. They were one of my favorite items on the trip.

But I don't know that those are typical of Memphis. I haven't been to enough places and I didn't go to a couple of the top choices, though everything I went to was recommended by people in Memphis. I didn't just start dialing from the phonebook.

It's worth noting that LOW makes Texas style 'cue. Brisket isn't my first choice for BBQ either, even though it's a major part of both midwest/KC and Texas 'cue. I have no emotional attachment to Southern style BBQ and it's pig-myopia. I just prefer pork. But still, LC's burnt ends and and LOW's brisket are excellent. Still, though, I love LOW's lamb ribs more than anything else they serve. I do have a certain fondness for the central Texas style of keeping it simple, salt and pepper, and sauce as optional. The meat comes first. When people get into a discussion about which BBQ place is better based on sauce, I roll back my eyes, take a nap, and tell them to wake me when they're done.

[fierydrunk]

Agreed re: the sauce talk--but I have had some gross sauce here in PDX (Cannon's).

I have to just reiterate that you went to one of the worst (to me) BBQ places in town--Corky's. Central I have never been to before--I strictly stick with the ancient, tried and true: Paynes, Cozy Corner, Interstate and on occaision, Neely's. I hear you about that kind of weird pork sandwich--that was the sort they would serve us at school. You would definitely notice a difference, esp. in the Payne's sandwich. It is much more what you describe as enjoying and their slaw is UNREAL, I have never seen or tasted one like it. It drips with great, spicy sauce, it has a good mix of crisp ends and tender PULLED meat and it is not overwhelmed by the bun.

Just like any other town, some people just have no taste. Even Memphians with their BBQ. I am not one of those fools, however!

Edited September 9, 2004 by fierydrunk (log)

[ExtraMSG]

I definitely look forward to getting back there and trying those places. They were at the top of my list before. You should get yourself to LOW sometime, though.

Edited September 9, 2004 by ExtraMSG (log)