Croatia: Merged topics

[marktynernyc]

Macondo

Hvar Grad

With every day being blue cloudless sky it was no

surprise tat Macondo was thronged the night I went. Started

with a anchovy and seafood pate sampler (40 kn), followed

by frutti de mare risotto (80 kn) and then lobster buzara

style (250 kn). The risotto was full of plump mussels and

clams - the lobster well grilled. Leaving late after a glass of

homemade prosec Macondo was still hopping - be sure to make reservations.

Golden Shell

Petra Hektorovica 8

I started with dumplings lasagana (70 kn) - light gnocci

in a walnut sauce subtlety flavored with dried herbs, really

a revelation of creamy flavors. Rabbit in Hvar sauce with

olives (100 kn), a fresh salad with goat cheese, (50 kn) -

I could eat one of these every day- and 1/2 L of the house

red (40 kn) - all wonderful. His spin on drunken figs was a

nice finish to a wonderful meal - macerated figs and fresh

berries. Ivo remembered me from my last visit - next time

I'll leave the decisions to him.

Knoba Dvor Dubokovic

Pitve

021.761.757

Try to arrive an hour before sunset and retreat to the upstairs

terrace for some wine and prust. The view looking out over

the vineyards, Jelsa and the mountains of Bol in the distance

as the day slowly shifts to night is beguiling. For my first dinner

I tried their salted sardines (5 kn a piece) - they were deep,

meaty, almost smoky, a little crunchy from the salt. For my

entree I had a whole grilled fish - the flesh scented with the

smoke from the grill - so good. I noticed the owner was preparing

lamb under the bell for other customers that evening. I made a

reservations for another night to come back and try it. The lamb

dish is cooked with onions, garlic and carrots under a metal bell

with embers scattered on - the long cooking process caramelizes

the onions and carrots, making the lamb tender and falling off the

bone. The owners can even help you locate a room to rent in Pitve

[marktynernyc]

Konoba Lovrincevic

Dubovica

The only way to get to Dubovica is down a dirt

trail which leads you to a wonderfully secluded,

pebbled beach cove. There is only one restaurant

here - Lovrincevic. After swimming and sunning for

few hours I retreated to their shaded patio for some

ham and house wine. Afterwards caught some more

sun. For lunch I started with their octopus salad - fresh

juicy tomatoes, a sprinkling of parsley, some olive oil

and firm octopus - this dish almost transported me back

to a beach in Huatulco. Whole grilled fish - once again -

well prepared - and the house white. I think lunch came

to about The quiet lull of the waves on the pebbled beach

and few other people made time stand still. For dessert

I had a couple glasses of prosec - which is home made -

and arrived a deep ruby red, nicely chilled and just

the right amount of sweet.

Skalinada

Zavala

021.767.019

www.skalinada-apartmani-hvar.hr

Still the wonderful tranquil place I remember from last year.

After I finished giving my order, the owner told me I had

ordered too much food and offered to half the servings for me.

Tried the octopus salad - light and fresh, with corn, fresh olive

oil and lemon. Had the gnocci with gorgonzola, fresh grilled fish,

zuchinni and potatoes and the house wine - all satisfying and

delicious. The special dish for the day is only offered for dinner.

Some mellow jazz in the background - I have to stay here

next year for a few days.

[marktynernyc]

Vina Plenkovic

Svete Nedjelja

A beautiful stone restaurant that allows you to sample

the various award winning wines. In between tastings I

stepped through one of the windows to catch some sun or

go for a swim. The south side of the island is a great place

to spend the day. Be sure to sample their prosec. A

majority of prosec served in restaurants is watered down

and added sugar. Prosec should be a deep red / brown

(almost like a cream sherry) and slightly heavy.

Konoba Stoncica

Vis

Located on the island of Vis, set on a wonderful tranquil

sandy cove (a rarity in Croatia) beneath palm fronds.

Started with savur marinara (20 kn) which was cooked

fish that had been marinated in olive oil, lemon and various

herbs and marinated sardines ( 5 kn a piece) that arrived

under a blanket of capers, onions, olives and a drizzle of

olive oil - both dishes greedily devoured. I order 2nd class

fish (80 kn, 1 KG) and potatoes, which were lightly mashed

and sprinkled with herbs (20 kn) - all washed down with a

1 liter of house white (40 kn).

[AmyH]

Can you give a quick summary of your itinerary. We are thinking of going to Trieste next summer and than on to Croatia. Now I'm hungry!

[marktynernyc]

I'll try to post over the weekend....

DAY 1

As I made my way from the Split airport bus ( 30 kn)  to the bus

station to catch the 3 pm bus to Zadar, I saw a prospective renter/tourist

literally being argued over by two rather statuesque Croatian women.

One screaming in her best Natasha-Boris accent while gesturing at the

other, "SHE IS VERY EXPENSIVE, VERY EXPENSIVE".   (Okay so maybe

dealing with political demonstrators, the NYPD and Republican

conventioneers on my way through NY Penn Station the previous day was

a bit easier)  As the bus pulled out of the station I saw the renter still

boxed in between the two women. The bus ride (72 kn) to Zadar took

about 3 hours, stopping at numerous towns along the way,passing bland

modern constructed suburbs and beautiful untouched pine coves, the 10

hour flight and warm sun making me drift in and out of a sleepy stupor.

At the bus station in Zadar I could see the Hotel Kolovare

(http://www.hotel-kolovare-zadar.htnet.hr/) sign on top of

the hotel - it's about a 5 minute walk, no need to take a cab. The hotel is

a 70s modern affair and has recently been updated - air conditioning,

electronic card swipes, great bathroom, adequately appointed room.  

I asked for a sea side room but even on the top floor the pines trees

blocked the view. After unpacking and showering, I walked along the

water's edge for about 15 minutes till I passed through the Land Gate

and into the historic center of Zadar.    Unlike Dubrovnik's Old Town which

is pedestrian only, Zadar's historic district does have some, though very little,

vehicular traffic, unfortunately. I noticed a mix of old and new constantly in

Zadar - the history of numerous countries visible around every corner in

this crossroad's city.   I wandered around - finding the mix of Italianate,

Hapsburg, Croatian and modern architecture surprising and a bit of a let down

after Hvar and Dubrovnik.   I made my way to the Forum where remnants of

Roman pillars and stones still stand and then back to Fosa for dinner - which

is located just outside the Land Gate and city walls, on a small cove. For

dessert I walked back to the Forum for some ice cream and maraschino

liquor - admiring St. Donat and St. Anatassia's tower - then walked around

getting gloriously lost.   On one square I sipped a glass of travarica and listened

to a Croatian played acoustic guitar in a cool evening breeze. At a bar on the

main walk, a Croatian folk group sang accapella. The main walk, like Stradun

in Dubrovnik, glistens in the night and was thronged with people.  The view

looking towards St, Anatasia tower at night is enchanting. After 24 plus hours

of traveling and a couple more travaricas I decided to call it a night and

made my way back to the hotel.

[vesnuccia]

you've been to hvar and you have'nt been to Palmizana????

big mistake!!!!

ThereMeneghello family made a little botanical paradise and now thaey have some apartmants and rooms to rent, but their first love is traditional cuisine. They live on the island where there is no electricity so you eat what the son has fished the night before, the cheese they maked from goat milk...

if you return there you have to have afish soup they do in a witch like pot with all kind of fish, sea food, and even aragoste which they fish and let live in sort of enormous wooden boxes in the sea.

marvolous!

[marktynernyc]

DAY 2

My first full day in Zadar was spent sightseeing. Started with the

archeology museum, A well proportioned modern building, located

at the Forum.  Wonderful stone carvings, decorated columns,

sarcophaguses, stone friezes - be sure to check the view of the

forum from the second floor.   Next on my list - St. Donat (10 kn).  

Built in the 9th century - a pre-Romanesque, Byzantine influence church  

The interior of the church is plain - just space created by the arches,

columns and overall circular shape of the building - I could sense the

heaviness of the walls- a great, great space, the bright Croatian sunlight

pouring through the few windows high above - fragments of Roman temples

in the walls - musical concerts are held here during the summer. Be sure to

go upstairs to the where the women would congregate.   Across from St.

Donat is Svete Marija - a monastery and church.  Admission to the monastery

is 20 kn.  From the outside you would have no idea what treasures are

within - I was blown away by the religious gold and silver art work, reliquaries,

crucifixes, vestments, etc. And the collection is beautifully and very

professionally displayed - moody lighting, dark wood glass cabinets, deep

red plush carpet and in the shadows Benedictine "ninja" nuns lurk in case

you pull out your camera.  I spent an hour amazed at how beautiful

everything was. If you see only two things in Zadar - see St. Donat

and the silver and gold art at Svete Marija.   Afterwards I went over to

the restaurant, Kornat, for lunch. Delicious contemporary Croatian cuisine.

The restaurant is set on the water's edge, boats and ferries arriving and

departing.  After lunch I walked back to St. Anatassia and climbed the bell

tower (10 kn) for a bird's eye view of Zadar and the archipelago - which

is fantastic .   Afterwards, I sat inside St.Anastasia - listening to the

various church bells ring, admiring the Romanesque interior. My initial

disappointment in Zadar was totally vanquished by the afternoon - every

corner I turned was a new discovery - small chapels, hidden courtyards,

the Riva Nova. Late afternoon I went back to the hotel to lay out for a bit -

the waves on the pebbled beach and the warm sun lulling me to sleep.

For dinner I went to Trata - which is located behind the Roman Forum and

has pieces of Roman temples in it courtyard. For dessert, ice cream - in

fact, I made a point of trying new flavors every time I had ice cream - my

favorite flavor was punc.

[marktynernyc]

Actually Vesnuccia - I went to Palminzana last year - had lunch at Zori -

the weather wasn't cooperating very well so I wasn't able to explore the island.

This year I was going to go to St. Klement (?) - Dinko's wife's parents have a

restaurant and vineyard there - but the days got away from me. I remember

reading about Meneghello - just not enough time.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 3

I spent half the day catching some sun, swimming and sleeping.

There is a beach near the hotel - somewhat scruffy, barren and

rocky. I found the water, while clean, not crystal clear. I walked

into town to check on the ferry schedules to Dugi Otok and Sali and

then grabbed a cab from the Harbor gate to Roko's (70 kn). After

lunch I went back to the historic center and meandered around -

stopping into Trata for some wine and Dalmatian ham, getting

some ice cream and walking along the Riva Nova, sitting on a

ancient column in the Roman Forum, walking along the walls

which has parks and promenades on top of them. Walking along

the Riva Nova I watched a bright cherry red sun set slowly behind

the Zadar archipelago. For dinner I went back Kornat - the feathery

lite gnocci with gorgonzola and pine nuts was so good. I turned in

early because I was taking a boat excursion to the Kornati the next day.

[Carrot Top]

These are marvellous descriptions of bounteous delicious food!

Has the cuisine always been so abundant? I would have thought that the troubles within the country would have diminished both the availability and quality of food...

It might be a difficult question to answer without wandering into the proscripted eGullet areas of politics and religion, but I hope you will try...

Or of course, a simple yes or no would be an answer too!

P.S. Everyone remembers that the great Nero Wolfe hails from that area...yes?

Edited October 9, 2004 by Carrot Top (log)

[marktynernyc]

DAY 4

I booked a Kornati excursion (250 kn), which included lunch

and beverages, through the hotel the previous day. We were

scheduled to leave at 9 am but being that high season was over,

excursion groups were combined and we didn't leave until about

10 am. There is a market just inside the walls near the Harbor

Gate - the fresh smell of produce hung thickly in the air - to buy

some snacks. The only thing that concerned me about doing another

boat excursion was last year on an excursion to Bol I had to listen to

ABBA for 5 hours. On this excursion one could escape to the upper

deck. The Kornati are islands located in the southern end of the Zadar

archipelago - and were deforested due to Venetian boat building.

Sheep grazing contributed to the loss of top soil and the Kornati are

now practically bare islands due to the bora (winds). The rocking of

the boat, the wind, the sound of the waves, the bright sunlight glittering

off the deep blue Adriatic, the misty slate blue Kornati scattered to the

horizon. Sailboats cruised about - their white sails billowing in the breeze.

We stopped at Dugi Otok to visit the salt lake and view the white cliffs

from above - then cruised around more of the islands. There are no

hotels in the Kornati - however, there are a few Robinson Caruso houses

available to rent - no electricity, water tank - grocery boats sail around

to the houses during high season. We stopped at another island for lunch -

grilled fish, lamb, salad and wine - which was fine. We made it back to Zadar

around 6:30 pm. I walked over to the Riva Nova and grabbed a table at

Restaurant Zadar - the only restaurant I found with outside seating where

you could watch sunset. I order some seafood salad, Dalmatian ham, fried

girice and wine and watched the sun set. People strolled along the quay

in the early evening - the sky shifting from pink to violet to blue - ferries

and boats going back and forth to the islands - I found myself wishing I

could stay a few more days. Zadar is a great jumping off point - the only

problem is there is little accommodations in the historic center but plenty

of mega complexes north and south of the city. After dinner I wandered

around again, having some ice cream and a couple drinks at a cafe located

in the Forum, with a full view of St. Donat and Anastasia.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 5

I was up early and caught the 7 am bus to Split (72 kn). I got

to Split about 10:30 am - the catamaran to Hvar departed at

11:30 am so I checked my bags and walked around Split. We

departed on time, an hour later arrived in Hvar. This year I

stayed at the Hotel Adriatic (58 E a night, breakfast included) -

room 110 - a picture perfect view of the harbor (unlike last year

at the Palace Hotel), air conditioning and adequately furnished

(unlike the Palace Hotel). For lunch I finally tried Croatian

pizza (35 kn) at Kogo which is on St. Stephan's Square. Alviz,

the other local favorite place for pizza, is located near the bus

station, behind St. Stephan. After lunch grab my towel, swim goggles

and went for a swim. The water was crystal clear - according to a

store owner this is due to the numerous currents created by the

Palkeni islands nearby. For sunset I hiked up to the Fortress above

Hvar Grad - the view is still as wonderful as I remember - the warm

golden light of the setting sun turned the town a warm pink. For

dinner I went back to Menego (http://www.menego.hr/). The house

wine was a revelation for me - and the artisinal food was delicious -

don't forget to sign the world atlas. I had to sit upstairs which was

not as comfortable as downstairs - you can make reservations. After

dinner I meandered around, got some ice cream and hung out on the

square. I turned in early due to being in transit so much of the day. My

one concern about the Hotel Adriatic was possible noise from the bar,

Carpe Diem, across the harbor but with the windows closed and the pseudo

air conditioner (more white noise maker) on I was able to fall asleep

with no problem.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 6

Breakfast is a standard affair at the Hotel Adriatic but having it on

the terrace, the boats an arms throw away makes just a bit nicer -

the sound of water slapping against the stone, the church bells ringing.

I decided to rent a scooter and explore the island - in the farmer's

market there is a speciality store with cheeses, sausages, wines, l

iquors and scooters to rent. I was able to rent a scooter for 24 hours

for 200 kn - compared to last year, 300 kn for 12 hrs - all I can say is

shop around. I explored the interior villages - Pitve, Selca, Vrbanj -

wide vistas over vineyards, mountains in the distance, the smell of pine

in the air, the blue sky - a scooter is a great way to really see the island.

One my favorite villages is Pitve - situated near Jelsa on the way to Zavala,

located on the south side of the island. The views looking out over vineyards,

Jelsa and the mountains of Bol in the distance from Pitve is seductive.

There are two restaurants in Pitve - for afternoon snack I stumbled upon

Knoba Dvor Dubokovic and had some wine and Dalmatian then headed to

the south side of the island - to get there you have to go through a long

single-car width tunnel which is thrilling to say the least - the rough hued

rock just barely visible from the headlight of my scooter and the chill in

the air make it memorable. Having been to Zavala last year I headed to

Vina Plenkovic (www.zlatanotok.hr) in Svete Nedjelja. Here you can sample

award winning wines - I did a tasting of Zavala Otok, Zaval ( unique bouquet),

Zlatan Rose ( which I liked a lot, and I'm not a big rose fan), Zlatan Barik

(which was quaffable), Zlatan Galeb (which struck me as ordinary) and their

prosec. Their prosec was beautiful - thick, almost like a cream sherry -

raisiny - I yearned for some manchego and quince. A lot of the prosec

served in restaurants is adulterated crap - water downed, sugar added.

It should be either a deep brown or a deep ruby red - and somewhat thick,

not watery. Unfortunately the kitchen was closed for the season so all I could

nibble on was Pag cheese and Dalmatian ham. The restaurant is beautiful -

at times I stepped through one of the windows facing the sea and dove in -

it was so wonderfully remote. I spent the afternoon here. For dinner I

decided to stop at Knoba Dvor Dubokovic. I was seated on an upper terrace

which gave me a panoramic view - the salted sardines, the grilled fish, watching

the night gently descend. I noticed during dinner the owner was preparing

lamb under the bell - I made reservations to come back to try this dish. I had

forgotten to bring my jacket so the drive back was a bit chilly - at times I would

pull over, turn off the motor (and thus the headlight) and just appreciate the star

filled sky above, the crickets and the stillness. When I got back to Hvar I stopped

off for a rikea then turned in - tomorrow the green & blue caves.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 7

Last year when I tried to do the blue & green cave excursion it

was canceled because of high winds. This year the winds weren't

so bad - we were able to visit the green cave but not the blue cave.

Of course, I over heard a couple other days that the winds were to

high to visit the blue cave - which makes me wonder if there is a

blue cave. Our excursion was changed to Vis, the green cave and

Stoncica (150 kn, lunch was not included). It was a smaller boat

than the normal excursion boats because of the caves - and thus faster.

We first stopped at Vis - the island was at one time under Ventian control

and at another, a military base for Tito. Vis was a delight - I noticed lots

of decorative architectural details that were unique to Vis. During the

excursion a Canadian woman struck up a conversation - asking "do they

ever have a cloudy day here in Croatia?" - I'll admit I chuckled at her

lament (mea culpa). We then headed towards the green cave - the

boat entered a long tunnel and I wondered if this was a man-made

passage to the green cave - no, it was a garage for one of Tito's

submarines. We finally arrived at the green cave - which is striking

however as for it being the green cave (like the Blue Cave in Capri) -

a single blob of dancing light in the water from a man-made hole in

the ceiling of the cave was a bit of a let down. However the other tourists

jockeying for position to take photos of the dancing green blob was rather

humorous. After the green cave we headed to Stoncica - a sandy cove

( a rarity in Croatia) for the afternoon. The restaurant, Knoba Stoncica,

is a bit make shift - palm fronds and such - the food however was top notch.

The savur marinana, cooked fish that was marinated in olive oil and herbs

was delicious. The marinated sardines arrived under a blanket of onions and

capers drizzled with olive oil - delicious. One can order 1st class or 2nd class

fish in Croatia - the only discernible difference is price - both class are good,

1st class being a bit firmer in texture. I had 2nd class fish and potatoes that

were lightly mashed, still somewhat chunky and sprinkled with herbs.

Afterwards I found a spot to lay out and swim for while. The owner of the

restaurant can arrange for accommodations on the cove. The ride back was

peaceful - everyone seemed slightly unconscious - the bright sun, the smell

of the sea, the waves, the food and wine. We got back to Hvar around 6:30 pm -

I fell asleep till 11pm. Still full from lunch I opted for some ice cream and sat

in the square hovering in that in between state of consciousness.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 8

I decide this day I wanted to just relax - no sightseeing, no excursion -

just be hypnotized by the waves and the sun. I asked the desk clerk

how to get to Dubovica - which is situated on a secluded cove. She

said I could take a bus then walk down a rocky dirt trail, that it was

easier to go down than to go up. I commented that life was like that

and we both shared a good laugh. The bus schedule is posted at the

bus station and is easy to understand - the bus fare from Hvar to

Dubovica is 9 kn. June 2003, Hvar had a couple fires - one fire

burned all the way to the sea, near Dubovica - walking the dirt trail

down to Dubovica I noticed charred pine trees and new growth.

Dubovica is on a secluded pebbled cove with one restaurant and one

house with rooms to rent. Blue cloudless sky - water as smooth as

glass - sailboats on the horizon - peace and quiet except for the

lapping of waves - this was exactly what I was looking for. I swam,

I slept, I swam some more - I noticed that sea urchins were congregated

at deeper levels and on large rocks and none were near the pebbled

beach area - which was a relief. Around noon I walked over to the

restaurant, Lovrincevic, for some wine and ham - admiring the small

church next to the restaurant and talking with the owner. After some

more sun and swimming I came back for lunch - octopus salad (which

transported me back to Huatulco, Mexico), grilled fish and the house

white wine - the stillness and quiet of the day intensified the meal. For

dessert - a couple glasses of homemade prosec - a deep ruby red,

nicely chilled - this was heaven. The owner's daughter who is about

7 years old sells sea shells and is an enchantress with her smile - you

will not be able to resist this siren. Hiking back up to catch the bus

wasn't too difficult - the fare from Dubovica, 9 kn. For dinner I went

back to Macondo. The good weather made for a long wait for a table

outside - make reservations. While the food was good, the evening

seemed rushed and forced. When I left, the restaurant was still busy.

I noticed during the previous 2 years visiting Croatia it was customary

to get finger bowl with your meal. This year not one restaurant

provided a finger bowl - instead I got those antiseptic, burn your nose

hairs, make your eyes squint, towlettes. For dessert - I stopped off at

a bar near St. Stephen for a night cap.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 9

While having dinner at Knoba Dvor Dubokovic my waiter and I

struck up a conversation about NY and whatelse but Sienfeld.

(He loves Seinfeld) Frank invited me over to his mother's for lunch,

in Jelsa at noon the following day. We had fish and freshly sauteed

potatoes and zuchinni. What I found interesting was that Catholic

Croatians observe fish on Friday year round. Lunch was pleasant and

a nice change from the restaurant scene - I noticed how efficient

Croatian houses are designed - almost like a ship - nothing superfluous.

During lunch I mentioned to Frank that I wanted to buy some

Croatian olive oil. He told me to come back the next day and he

would take me to a local producer. Croatians (like Mexicans) also like

instant Nescafe coffee I discovered. The afternoon was spent tooling

around on my scooter, exploring small villages, taking dips in secluded

coves. For dinner I went back to Knoba Dvor Dubokovic. Sitting

under a canopy of grape vines - the sound of crickets - the night

so dark I couldn't tell where the horizon lay - the world's problems

seemed non existent. For starters, dalmation ham and salad. For

entree - lamb under the bell - the caramelized onions and carrots

and tender lamb - delicious. For dessert - pancakes with chocolate

syrup - which was average. The drive back was a bit nerve racking -

I had choosen not to refill the gas tank while near Jelsa - every time I

went up a hill the orange gas light came on - going down hill, no light -

it's easy going up but harder going up - words have never been so true.

Luckily I made it back to Hvar with no problem.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 10

Got up early to photograph the morning light - watched back packers

trudge through St. Stephen's square to the bus station. After breakfast

grabbed my towel and goggles and went for a swim then laid out - near

the harbor a five masted sailboat was anchored. Met Frank in Jelsa at

noon and picked up my bottle of Croatian olive oil. After saying good

bye to Frank - and promising to send him a NYC t-shirt - I headed off

to Zavala. I had lunch at Skalinada (www.skalinada-apartmani-hvar.hr) -

after ordering my meal the owner told me I had order too much food and

offered to halve the portions - and he was right. I spent the afternoon

sunning and swimming then went back to to Vina Plenkovic

(www.zlatanotok.hr) in Svete Nedjelja to buy some bottles of wine.

Back in Hvar I stopped off at the specialty food store and bought some

more wine and sampled more cheeses, the owner's son and I discussing

the first chain supermarket in Hvar. For dinner I went back to the Golden

Shell - Ivo remembered me from last year. The gnocci in walnut sauce

was hearty, creamy and nice herbed - the rabbit in Hvar sauce was okay -

the salad with goat cheese was fantastic. For dessert - drunken figs.

Walking through St. Stephen square I did not want to go back to NYC - getting

my customary ice cream for the evening added to the poignancy of the evening.

DAY 11

The catamaran departed Hvar at 9 am, which allowed me time to meandered

around Split for about an hour and a half before taking the bus to the

airport (30 kn). The flight was uneventful - arriving at JFK I couldn't decide

between taking the train-to-the plane or a taxi back home - I had 6 bottles

of wine and 1 bottle of olive oil in my back pack - would you believe I opted

for the train - quicker and more efficient.

[rshorens]

Sounds like a wonderful trip! I'm leaving Thursday for a cruise sponsored by the Metropolitan Museum of Art- we go to Split and Dubrovnick but will not have time for explorations on our own. Your posting makes me think I'll have to return on my own!

Roz

[marktynernyc]

rshorens -

Dubrovnik is beyond words - when I turned the corner on to Stradun

( the main street in the Old Town) I became giddy with joy - it's unlike

anywhere in the world. A must do in Dubrovnik - when walking the walls

you may notice outside the walls on the Adriatic seaside a bar - the name

of this bar is Buza. You must go - you walk(stoop) through a small

opening in the wall, down some twisty concrete stairs and you arrive at a

somewhat rag-tag little bar - they only serve wine and beer ( I brought my

own prust and figs) - it is a bar with an edge, on the edge - 1950's Dean

Martine and Croatian folk music play in the background - the wide expanse

of the Adriatic in front of you - a real sweet spot. I really enjoyed dinner

at the Rustica Taverna at the Hotel Excelsior (http://www.hotel-excelsior.hr),

where I stayed - a picture perfect southern view of the Old Town and really

well prepared Dalmation cuisine. Go early - at least an hour before sunset

if possible. As for Split - it's a bit rough around the edges - I've only been

there for a few hours. A couple I met on Hvar stayed in Split for 2 nights

and really enjoyed it. My second "lay over" - I was able to explore a bit

more and found numeorus bars, cafes and restaurants down narrow alleys -

so let us know what you think of Split. The day of my departure (Sunday) -

mass was taking place in a small chapel within Diocletian's Palace.

Grape harvest has just finished on Hvar and olive picking is about to

commence - I love this time of year (Sept -Oct) - let us know how it is.

[marktynernyc]

Carrot Top -

The cuisine in Croatia is quiet diverse. In Istria (northern Croatia) - there is

a strong Italian influence (truffle season just finished). Further inland -

there is Serbian and Hungarian influence. Anywhere along the coast is

seafood. If you're wondering about the residual effects of the war - which

was almost 15 years ago - all the infrastructure is up and working. I find Croatians

to be very efficient and savy. By my third trip to Croatia I stopped worrying

about being on a tight schedule - push come to shove, if I missed a ferry I

could always find a room to stay in for the night - not a big deal (the exception

being having to catch a flight) - and even then, there's plenty of internet cafes to reschedule.

I will say that the accomodations are not Four Seasons luxury - but

I spent so little time inside because Croatia is so beautiful, it really didn't matter.

Croatians speak German, Italian and English ( and I've over heard a bit of

Hungarian also). A lot of the restaurants serve the same dishes - but quality

and source vary. Yes there were moments when I was jonesing for some Thai

or good Mexica but somehow fresh seafood, prust and wines was more than enough.

Any other questions,, feel free to ask.

[marktynernyc]

I went to Brac and Hvar at the beginning of September - a good friend

decided to join me this trip. The weather was perfect - once again, a very

relaxing and restorative vacation - my friend now understands why I keep

going back. Sorry this is so late - work, holidays and closing on an

apartment got in the way. If you would like to hear about what we did -

please let me know. Here are the restaurants we ate at:

BRAC

Konoba Gust,

Frane Radica 14, Bol, Brac

http://www.bol.hr/index.php?ukljuci=taverna%20gust

For our first dinner on Brac, I suggested we go to Gust - which is located

across from the Hotel Kastil. I had eaten lunch here 2 years ago, on a day

excursion from Hvar, and had been yearning for their salted sardines ever

since.  The dalmatian ham (50 kn) was as good as ever. I was in heaven

regarding the salted sardines (6 kn a piece) dense and slaty but with a slice

of onion the salt seemed dimenished. My friend found them a bit too salty

and made comments about my impending blood pressure problems.   For

mains I had spaghetti de fruttie de mare (65 kn) - which was pretty good,

and my friend had grilled calamari (230 kn /1 kg - his serving came to 92 kn).  

The only true dissapointment for the evening was the house wine (1 ltr, 60 kn) -

which seemed to be flavoured with apple (dare I say Boone's Farm?)

Another day, due to possible inclement weather (which never transpired)

we decided to have lunch here.  We both started with lobster salad (60 kn).

A generous plate of lobster meat, served plain, with shredded lettuce

surrounding  - it was just as delicious as I remember from 2 years ago,

especially with a light drizzle of olive oil. I also ordered the marinara -

marinated anchovies - which were pleasent.   For mains - my friend order

the rump steak with french fries. My friend was surprised how well prepared

and flavorful the steak was. And the fries were perfect. I order fruti de mare

risotto - which was full of mussels, clams, shrimp, a couple scampi and

toothsome rice - very good. This time we order a couple bottles of Prosip

Cara - 175 kn - which went really well with the meal.

You can sit outside or inside, which has a cozy konoba feel to it.

Taverna Riva,

Frane Radica 5, Bol, Brac

I was a bit skeptical of this restaurant at first - concerned that it might

be a bit of a tourist haunt - I was proved wrong. Almost every dish was

delicious - the octopus salad, the mussels, the fish (dorado, scorpino),

octopus under the bell. The only dish that didn't impress - the marinara (?),

marinated anchovies - which were okay, nothing exceptional. The wines

recommended were perfect. For our second dinner we had 'octopus under

the bell'. The octopus was so tender and cut like fillet - the sauce was

wonderfully rich - the potatoes, carrots and baby eggplants were beautifully

carmalized. Another very interestng dish was a special type of mussel that

had a a growth (cork) that you had to remove to open it - the mussels arrive

to the table closed - the meat was pale white. The setting along the water's

edge was sublime. They also serve lunch. Highly recommended.

Vrsalovica dvori,

M. Vrsalovica 4, Bol, Brac

This restaurant was recommended by a few locals - well prepared home-style

cooking.  Not much ambience - rather straight forward. We started with salads.

For my 1st course I order the black risotto - the ink giving a depth of flavor that

is hard to describe - the rice had just the right firmness.   We both ordered

scampi - generous plates of scampi arrived and we dug in.  The meat was

dense but soft and sweet.  We order 1/2 liter carafs of both the house white

and house red.

Ribarska Kucica

A. Starcevica, Bol, Brac

After debating where to go for dinner - my friend and I decided we wanted to

eat along the water's edge and decided to try Ribarska Kucica. The service

was warm - the evening filled with laughter and the soothing sound of the

waves. I started with gnocci in gorgonzola sauce with dalmatian ham. Dense -

rich - warm - filling. A nice contrast to all the seafood i had been eating. For

my main - whole grilled fish (dyntex, I think) - not as sweet as scorpino or

light as orada - but dense and meaty. We ordered a couple pinot grigio type

white wines.

Toni,

Dol, Brac

http://toni-dol.netfirms.com/index.html

After visiting the Stone Cutting school in Puscica (highly recommended),

we made our way along the north side of the island towards Postira - took

a left and head inland through mandarian groves and vineyards.  There is

only one road in Dol and Toni is located on it. Upon our arrival we were

offered brandies and figs and the brother showed us around their konoba.

Another brother came out from the kitchen with a octopus draped over his

left hand and asked if we would like to start with ocotpus salad as a

starter - yes.   Yes we said. My friend ordered dorada and I order lamb

for our mains. The octopus salad was perfect - a drizzle of olive oil, a squirt

of lemon - the flesh was tender. My friend's fish was perfectly grilled - the

lamb was okay. Glasses of homemade prosec followed along with figs.We

sat underneath an arbor of kiwis. Highly recommended.

Vinotoka,

Jobova 6, Supetar, Brac

We were here for lunch so crowds were minimal. The patio area looks over

a leafy park - dinner in the eveing would an enjoyable affair. I started with

octopus salad - tender meaty chucks of tentacles slathered in fresh olive oil.  

For my main -  mussels that were plump, juicy and instead of being red-orange

they were pale white - the white wine broth was soaked up with some fresh bread.

HVAR

Menego

Vl. Dinko Kovacevi, Hvar Grad, Hvar

Dinko's food still reflects good quality and flavor. New item this year - stuffed

peppers. We order prust, octopus salad, a house salad, marinated anchovies

and stuffed peppers. Dinko spoiled me my first year with his marinated

anchovies - though sadly for me he has not repeated the dish exactely but

still serve tasty variations. My friend didn't warm up to the place or food -

he thought everything was pickled (marinated I said) and the prust hanging

from the rafters smelled a bit musty (I didn't smell anything). The wine once

again had a certain yeast/bread like quality to it - very unique.

Golden Shell

Petra Hektorovica 8, Hvar Grad, Hvar

Ivo is still serving great food - my friend and I started off with salads and

hen order whole grilled fish - scorpino and orada. A bottle of red plavic

rounded out the meal. For dessert  Ivo treated us to home pear brandy -

golden nectar with a punch. Will be back again next year.

Jurin Podrum

Duonja kola, Stari Grad, Hvar

Started with the octopus salad - tender chucks of flesh mixed with juicy

tomatoes and a restrained sprinkling of parsley.  2 years ago I had the

lobster spaghetti here - I have been trying to get back to Jurim Podrum

every time I've returned to Hvar because it was so good. This year I was

able to get back and see if the lobster spaghetti was a good as I remember.

While not as light as the first - this version was a bit more hearty but still

good. Get a table outside on one of the quiet lanes, sit back, relax and enjoy

a long leisurely lunch. The food is well prepared and straight-forward. I'll be

back next year.

Eremitaz

Stari Grad, Hvar

http://www.stari-grad-faros.hr/eremitaz/

I had my last meal here. Located on the north side of the bay, overlooking

the sea - I started with frutti de mare risotto followed by double stripe bream

(which were small in size) - being that I rode a vespa, I only had a 1/2 liter

of house white. Wish I had ordered scorpino or orada for my last meal -

but was still full from lunch - good setting.

Knoba Humac

Humac, Hvar

http://www.humac.info/

Konoba Humac is located east of Jelsa. You'll have take a rock filled, dirt

road to reach this konoba but the effort is well rewarded. The setting looks

out towards Brac - you sit beneath trees amid a cluster of stone houses.

Order a glass of the strong red plavic and take in the view, and let the

tranquilty of the setting work it's magic. All the food is locally produced.

You must order 'under the bell' type dishes in advance.   I started with  

salted sardines which were bathed in fresh olive oil. The lamb was incredibly

tender and juicy - the thinly sliced grilled potatoes slightly smoky from the grill.  

The home made plavic wine is robust and strong. Highly recommended.

Knoba Dvor Dubokovic

Pitve, Hvar

Located in Pitve - which overlooks Jelsa. We arrived about an hour before

sunset and retreated to the upstairs table which has an incredible view looking

out over vineyards towards the island of Brac. After complimentary aperitifs

of homemade brandies - we started with salted sardines and a bottle of their

red (which was very good). We meandered down to where the octopus

under the bell was cooking and talk with Mr. Dubokovic. Back upstairs we

had shells buzara - which was mussels, clams and scampi in a tomato-wine

broth and another bottle of red. The shelsl were okay - the mussels were a

bit small and gritty. The 'octopus under the bell' dish was more rustic than

the version at Taverna Riva in Bol but just as good. The flesh was so tender

and meaty - the potatoes and carrots roasted beautifully. For dessert we

had some home made brandy. Highly recommended.

Konoba Lovrincevic

Dubovica, Hvar

Dubovica is located on a secluded bay and can only be reach by footpath.

There is only one restaurant in the cove. We swam, caught some sun, the

gentle lapping of the waves lulled us to sleep, sailboats drifted on the horizon.

We retreated under the palm thatched roof and ordered octopus salad, grilled

orada and a liter of house white. The real insight was when I order a glass of

prosec - last year it was a deep ruby red, this year a light pink. When I asked

about the color - the waiter said, "a new year, new grapes, different color".

Edited December 7, 2005 by marktynernyc (log)

[srhcb]

Thank you for the review.

I'll print out your message and forward it to my cousins, who have made several voyages to our ancestoral homeland in the past couple of years, and see if they recognize any of the places you mention.

SB (it sounds great!)

[monkey2000]

So I am off to Croatia for two weeks later this summer and am wondering what to look out for foodwise. And where I should go to eat.

My reading so far makes it sound like an interesting mix of Greek, Italian, Austro-Hungarian, Turkish, Slavic and other Eastern European influences. A cured ham called prsjut made me think of prosciutto! Sausages cured with spicy paprika bring to mind chorizo! A strudel like pastry that can be savory or sweet! Cabbages either stuffed or as sauerkraut!

I am headed to Istria, Split and Dubrovnik and wherever else our wanderings take us along the coast. Any recommendations?

[srhcb]

My Serbian Grandparents are from that area, (it was all Austria when they came here), and my Sister and Cousins have made several trips to the vacinity.

According to their reports, just about anything you eat will be great!

SB (and don't miss Plitvicka Jezera National Park for spectacular scenery)

[marktynernyc]

I've been going to Croatia for the past 4 years (trips reports have been posted). Going back again this September for 2 1/2 weeks - Trogir, Komiza (Otok Vis), Stari Grad (Otok Hvar) and Podgora (Makarska riviera). Hoping to participate in the grape harvest. Try to get to one of the central islands. I would recommend Trogir over Split as a base - it's only 30 minutes north of Split.

What to eat? Prust. There's a salty moist feta like cheese that I really like. The Pag cheese I think is okay. Octopus and lamb cooked under a bell. Scorpino is great. Fruti de mare risottos are good. Black risotto can be quite good if properly done. The organic fruits are so juicy. Marinated anchovies.

I've not gotten to istria yet - maybe next year - if possible for truffle season. Croatia is wonderful.