Annisa

[chefboy24]

she had a nice spot on the first or second episode of "martha" this season.

phenominally high zagat rating, right? like 27 for food? thats the same level as gotham?

they're a little too pro-women there, i think, though. something about a wine list featuring women winemakers! please, give me a break. italy is full of them, i could give a shit if the winemaker is a nice guy or not, or a woman or not (planeta for example...great stuff, upon hundreds of other women winemakers).

[Bond Girl]

Does it really matter if the restaurant is "Pro-women", "Pro-Men" or something in between?

Can we just try to keep the discussion to food, service and dining experience in general?

[georgesimian]

They have a great wine list. One of the best.

[cupcakequeen]

i've never had popsicles at a restaurant. i am curious how are they presented as far as melting and ease of eating are concerned...on a plate, in a cup?

[greensNbeans]

i've never had popsicles at a restaurant.  i am curious how are they presented as far as melting and ease of eating are concerned...on a plate, in a cup?

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me too - please tell more

[Bond Girl]

If I remember correctly, the popscicles came in a bowl like stand and we each just took one, they were little ones in different flavors. It's really cute, and we all felt like kids afterward.

[gaf]

Chick Pick New York City Entry #35

If restaurants have personalities, they also have gender. The steakhouse represents the archetypal masculinist bastion - a clubhouse for grown-up boys. Yet, until recently there was not an equivalent chick pick. In an industry in which until fairly recently most chefs were men and most owners were as well, this was to be expected - and most of those who made reservations were men as well. Servers considered women to be trouble, and fought to avoid all female parties at their station. The system was well-established. Most restaurants, even those at the high-end, bustled, bruted, and boomed.

The world has turned. It is not only that more women are poised with power - running, shaping, or choosing restaurants, but there is a new sensibility. Serene cuisine. Consider Annisa. This petite West Village establishment is a cove of repose. From the clean white, grey and cream decor with its gently swaying curtain, to the civilized calm, encouraging talk, intimate and otherwise, a diner realizes that this is not your father's restaurant.

Still, Annisa must not be labeled too readily. It is not a feminist restaurant, nor really a "feminine" restaurant (as described by Michelin), but a restaurant with a soft and supple aspect. Despite the fact that many of the well-priced wines are from vineyards with female proprietors or winemakers (selected by co-owner and sommelier Jennifer Scism) and that Annisa means "women" in Arabic, Anita Lo's food is not so easily categorized. The flavors are grand - not at all timid - although I wished that the cooks felt more comfortable in undercooking.

Annisa's menu is notable for the use of obscure foodstuffs: honshimeji mushrooms, bottarga di muggine, sumac, vincotto, Iroquois hominy, mochi, kabocha. Huh? Some boychefs play with chemistry sets or Lincoln Logs; Chef Lo's game is Trivial Pursuit.

As appetizer, I ordered Spicy Grilled Eggplant with Yogurt and Lentils - a dish as clear and compelling as its name. Chef Lo cooked the eggplant in an Indian style but with a well-modulated fire, further calmed by her sweet yogurt. Off to the side was a clever lentil patty. At first glance it appeared as couscous, but a taste revealed a complexity of spices and textures. My only complaint was that the eggplant was charred, and with the skin tough and splintery. If the eggplant is to be cooked such, it deserves to be peeled.

As a main course I ordered Sauteed Filet of Fluke with Fennel, Orange, and Bottaga di Muggine (grey mullet roe). As with the appetizer, the fluke was perfectly composed in its range of flavors. The orange sweet/acid brightened the fluke and the pressed roe, and the fennel added a restrained bitterness. However, the top layer of the fish was a bit overcooked, although the bottom was moist and rich. Cutting the fish, mixing it with the accompaniments, diminished the problem. Yet, both dishes suggest that at the stove sometimes less is more.

We shared two desserts. The star was the Tower of Kabocha (Japanese pumpkin) with mascarpone with ginger. The "tower," less Alfred Portole-vertical than horizontal had the challenges of much culinary architecture. The first forkful precipitated a crackup. Yet, the ginger and pumpkin did nicely even when in shards. Ginger proved a fine accompaniment for pumpkin, and both made this creamy autumn evening memorable.

The second dessert, Crispy Mochi with Black Sesame and a duo of Coconut Caramel and Pineapple Dipping Sauces, was notable for the powerfully silky sauces. While the pineapple flavor was intense, it was the distinctive tropical mix of coconut and caramel that will be remembered. The mochi - sweet rice balls - were too gummy for my taste. They served best as a means of mopping up the delightful sauces.

I was impressed by Chef Lo's beautifully conceived flavor palette, by the reasonably priced wine list, and by the civilized, balmy environment that distinguishes Annisa from its brethren.

Annisa

13 Barrow Street (near 4th Street and 7th Avenue)

Manhattan (West Village)

212-741-6699

My Webpage: Vealcheeks

[tammylc]

I've never picked a restaurant based on seeing the chef on Iron Chef before, but if all my meals turn out as well as this one did, I might have to make it a habit...

After seeing Anita Lo kick Mario Batali's butt on Iron Chef earlier this year, I was intrigued. I liked the crisp, clean, minimalist approach to cuisine that I saw on the show. I came to eGullet and read reviews and looked at the restaurant's website, and decided to make this one of my two dinners in NYC this past weekend.

We got the seven course chef's tasting menu. It seemed to be mostly smaller portions of things from the regular menu, which was fine with us. We asked to have the special appetizer of poached egg with white truffle included in our menu. But first we had an amuse of pureed white beans with chorizo and chive in a thin crispy pastry shell. Simple, clean tastes - yep, exactly what I was envisioning from my meal.

The rest of the meal lived up to that first bite.

First up was the special appetizer - a poached egg with shaved white truffle, served atop cooked juliened celery root with a pecorino creme sauce. Rich, and heady and aromatic from the truffles, this was a bit rich for a first course. But in retrospect, we couldn't actually figure out where in the menu it would have fit better (and we'd asked for it, so we had only ourselves to blame). And in any case, it was absolutely delicious.

As soon as our waiter began describing course number two, my friend and I started smiling. A single soup dumpling, filled with broth and foie gras mousse and jicama, with a bit of seared fois gras on top and a black vinegar reduction beneath. Why the smiles? We'd gone to Grand Sichuan for lunch and had the soup dumplings there. We figure we were probably the only people in all of New York to have soup dumplings twice in one day (especially without trying). The Grand Sichuan soup dumplings were good, but Annisa's were another thing entirely. Utterly luxurious. (I should admit a profound weakness for foie gras here - it's hard to make a foie dish I don't like.)

Next up, two takes on a single dish. On one side of the plate a piece af sauteed fluke served over a slice of cooked fennel, with orange and bottarga vinaigrettes. On the other side, the same ingredients in raw form as a salad of sliced fennel with pieces of fluke sashimi. An excellent play in contrasts of texture, temperature and flavor.

Our fourth course was another fish. This time, sea bass served with pieces of poached jerusalem artichoke and regular artichoke, on top of a puree of the two artichokes, with a sprinkle of sumac on top. I liked the pungent citrusy sumac bite and the textures of the artichokes, but don't really remember much else about this dish.

There was no wine pairing offered with the tasting menu, but we had asked our waiter for suggestions and each had a glass of a white Cote du Rhone (Chateau Noel St. Laurent 2003) for the first few courses. Assuming we'd have a meat course coming up, we asked our waiter to suggest a red. When he brought us a Bordeaux (the Chateau Pichon-Lussac Saint Emillion) my friend was skeptical. "What are we eating," he asked "short ribs?" Close...

The fifth course was a trinity of beef. First, beef carpaccio. Next, three slices of beautifully seared and beautifully rare hanger steak. Then, a mound of braised oxtail and bone marrow. Our waiter poured a cinnamon infused oxtail broth over the carpacio, lightly poaching it in a shabu shabu kind of style. The aroma of the oxtail broth was absolutely intoxicating. In a further nod the East, a small dish of condiments accompanied the course - wasabi for the broth, spicy chinese mustard for the hanger steak and oxtail, and pink salt for the carpacio and hanger steak.

Cheese course up next. Seven selections, thoughtfully arranged on the plate in order of assertiveness. Ossau-Iraty, something from Cobb Hill in Vermont, a slightly aged Pecorino, a delightfully runny Selles sur Cher, a Tomme du Chevre, "Grayson" from Meadow Creek, and finally, a Bleu d'Avergne.

We received two different desserts. Both were well executed versions of fairly classic desserts. A flaky apple tart was topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and surrounded by a luscious caramel sauce. The warm molten chocolate cake came with a banana mousse and a crispy fried banana slice. I know molten chocolate cakes are overdone, but that's just because they're so yummy, and this one was no exception.

We received some lovely parting gifts, of course. The little popsicles someone else mentioned. Small pieces of candied ginger. And a little chocolate something.

The restaurant is small, and the tables are close together. By their third bottle of wine we'd learned a little bit more about our neighbors than we really needed to know... Service was good, although when we arrived we were surprised to have to wait while they set our table. Perhaps a last minute switch to accomodate another reservation, but I really don't know. The restaurant filled up over the course of our meal and they were turning tables as we left.

All in all, a really fabulous meal. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this restaurant to anyone who appreciates understatement and tightly focused simplicity.

[mikeycook]

Based on the overall favorable reviews we have seen in numerous sources (including eGullet), my wife and I chose Annisa for our anniversary this year (6th). Has anyone been recently? Is there anything on the menu now that is particularly recommended?

[mikeycook]

Sorry for the late post, but my wife and I had a great meal at Annisa on Friday for our Anniversary. We both opted for the shorter tasting menu (5 courses) and were impressed by all of the courses.

The two courses that stood out the most were the Foie Gras with Soup Dumpling and Jicama and the Filet of Barramundi with Artichokes, Leeks and Black Trumpet Sauce.

First, the Foie Gras. I love Foie Gras and rarely have a dish that I don't like, whether hot or cold. That said, this was an excellent example and the combination of the stock-filled Shanghai dumpling and a little slice of foie gras was a completely hedonistic enjoyment. It reminded me of occasional soup dishes I've made with stock in which foie gras has been poached (for a terrine), which usually involve a pasta of some sort. A completely logical and delicious dish.

Regarding the Barramundi, I don't believe I have ever had it prior to Friday, although it seems to be emerging as a popular fish (probably because we've overcaught sea bass everywhere else in the world). Aside from the fact that the fish was perfectly cooked, what was interesting about the dish to me was the black trumpet mushroom sauce. It contained only very tiny visible bits of black trumpet mushroom, but not so large that the tongue could sense pieces. The end result was a wonderfully complement flavor to the fish without any bits where the mushroom dominated.

I was initially hesitant about Annisa because I was afraid that the fish dishes would be the high point and the meat dishes less tasty and interesting. In fact, all of the dishes, from the Kanpachi Sashimi with Lilies to the Grilled Loin of Australian Lamb with Golden Raisins and Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms (stuffed with ground veal and bulgar) were excellent. It definitely merits a return trip.

[Daniel]

Great Mikey,

Place sounds worth visiting.. I am glad you had a good time on your anniversary..

[freshherbs]

visited annisa last night. fabulous experience...just such a charming, comfortable space with highly proficient service and finely-executed bright-tasting dishes.

since most of what we ordered (foie, barramundi) has been well-covered above, i will report on the dish i most enjoyed: skate with korean spices.

the skate came in two forms: a grilled wing with cubes of kimchi and a sashimi with korean red spicy sauce (gochujang i think) on a bed of avocado. the wing was delicious and had a great textural element: the fish was crisp and the cubes of kimchi exploded in refreshing, spicy bursts. my wife and i aren't sure if the kimchi was cabbage or daikon.

the sashimi provided another texture alltogether. the silky fish and avocado had a surprising kick. it was a very sultry dish--both silky smooth and a little naughty.

all in all, a great experience and we will definitely be back for the tasting menu

[skiter53]

I have a reservation upcoming for Annisa in early Nov. Looking at their website, I'm just curious if anyone can tell me if the menu/prices are accurate?

It annoys me to no end when dishes, menus, and prices aren't as expected upon arrival...

[chefboy24]

going on saturday night! very excited.

any recommendations? is the wine list up to date because there is some very nicely aged and well priced stuff on there?

[tupac17616]

going on saturday night! very excited.

any recommendations? is the wine list up to date because there is some very nicely aged and well priced stuff on there?

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I went to Annisa for the first time just this past Sunday, actually. Very, very solid, I thought.

I had the foie gras soup dumplings with jicama, followed by the skate with avocado and radishes with Korean flavors. Both were delicious. The description upthread describes my entree nicely. I also tried my friends' miso sable (quite good; always on the menu, from what I gather) and pan roasted monkfish with monkfish liver, lobster and cabbage (buttery and wonderful). Wanted to try their mushroom soup they each had as an appetizer as well, but neither would share! So it must've been pretty good too. We split two desserts among the two of us, the mochi (dipping sauces are seriously tasty) and the lemon (poppy?) bread pudding, which had absolutely the best texture of any bread pudding I've ever eaten. Great service. Very good food. No complaints whatsoever. I'll be back.

As for the wine list, sorry but I have not a clue. Two of us didn't drink the other night, and the other had a nice cabernet he seemed to enjoy.

[ulterior epicure]

Seeing Anita Lo on Top Chef Masters prompted me to check in with annisa online. Apparently, there was a fire on July 4 and the restaurant is closed until this fall.