All change at L'Ortolan

[curlywurlyfi]

you'll find both Ortolan reviews in the UK Media round-up (she says, bossily)

[magnolia]

I just read the Jan Moir review and .. well .. Jura wines are meant to be oxidized, so it's a bit unfair on that point.  I haven't read her stuff before -- does she know anything about food or wine in general?

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Like most of the resto critics, she is more reliable when writing on food than wine but I find her reviews pretty trustworthy - and she has a better 'write about the restaurant' to 'write about myself' ratio than do several other critics who spend most of their column inches on the latter.