The truth about Merlot & Bordeaux

[Carema]

Lately there has been all manner of discussion regarding use of Merlot in Bordeaux.

Some facts:

Behind Grenache and Carignan, Merlot is the most wide planted grape in France.

2/3 of all acreage in Bordeaux is planted with... Merlot.

Only in the Medoc is Cabernet dominant in the blend. If you aint drinking Medoc wines, most likely it is Merlot dominant.

I did some figuring. Contrary to public belief the breakdown for most Classed Bdx is available on the internet. There is a great site- www.margaux.org that tells all. Of the 61 classed Bordeaux (and these all come from the Medoc save for Haut Brion & Mouton Rothschild, from Graves), here is how it all comes down:

only 8 have a cepage of 75% Cab or more (The American standard for varietal labeling, just for the sake of comparison)

1st growths- Lafite,Margaux, & Latour. (Mouton is unknown) Haut Brion is 55 cab 25 merlot and 20 Cab Franc

3rd Growths- Chat Ferriere (Mgx), Chat Langoa-Barton (St Julien)

5th growths- Chat Grand Puy Lacoste, Lynch-Bages, Lynch- Moussas. (all Paulliac)

about 40% fall in the between 60-74 percent cab

no I will not list all. (phew!)

about 5 % were unknown

5 were under 50% Cab

Chat Lascombes (2nd growth, Mgx), Chat Rauzan-Gassies (2nd Mgx), Chateau palmer (2nd Mgx), Chat Marquis D'Alesme Becker (2nd Mgx) & Chat Kirwan (2nd, Mgx).

In the Libournes (which encompasses all th Emilions, pomerols, Fronsac & Canon) there is more Merlot.

In Graves and Sauternes There is more Merlot.

In Entre Deux Mers, a huge catchall there is a heckuva lot of Merlot.

The most interesting part of this exploration was reading again and again in people's descriptions of Bordeaux, how the Bouchets (Cab sauv & Cab Franc) provide the structure and how Merlot provides the depth and flavor. The relationships are intrinsic & inseparable. In a way it makes this very post futile. But hopefully it is found interesting at the very least.

[Fat Guy]

Thanks for doing that research. I'm not sure about the 2/3 figure, though. Here's what I found:

"Bordeaux is the largest fine wine region in the world with 110,000 hectares under vine . . . . Merlot is the most planted variety with 40,000 hectares under vine."

http://www.american.edu/projects/mandala/T.../wine/wine3.htm

Another interesting issue is that the makeup of a given wine can change year-to-year. For example I believe Lafite is sometimes up to 70% cabernet sauvignon, and sometimes up to 50% merlot. I'll have to double-check that, though.

[tommy]

interesting numbers for sure.

i don't think i'm the *only* one who associates bordeaux with cabernet sauvignon. i wonder why that is? aside from ignorance of course.

[Fat Guy]

There are good reasons: 1) California Cabernets, as well as Cabernet-dominant "meritage" blends, have been very influential in determining American perceptions of Bordeaux as well as wine in general. Americans have trouble relating to the appelation system, so wine salespeople and the like often explain Bordeaux as being like California Cabernet. 2) Latour, Margaux, Lafite, and Mouton tend to be Cabernet-dominant and are probably the first names most semi-aware people reach for when thinking of classic heavy-hitting first-growth Bordeaux. 3) In my limited experience tasting and thinking about blends, cabernet tends to be more defining of a wine's structure than merlot -- I think the literature also supports that view in general.

[tommy]

i've answered my own question: willie gluckstern's book suggests that cabernet sauvignon is used more than merlot in bordeaux. i wonder why he says that? perhaps the misconception is so wide that wine professionals are also wrong about the numbers.

Edited July 19, 2003 by tommy (log)

[Fat Guy]

"The truth about Merlot & Bordeaux" -- Yeah, but which is better?

[tommy]

"The truth about Merlot & Bordeaux" -- Yeah, but which is better?     

i don't get it.

[Fat Guy]

[britcook]

"The truth about Merlot & Bordeaux" -- Yeah, but which is better?     

Now that's funny.

["T"]

It's odd, when I drink Chateau Soutard for instance, I know I am drinking mainly merlot, but I don't think of it as merlot but as Soutard.

BTW. 65% merlot, 30% cab/franc, 5% cab/sauv.

[malachi]

As noted before - it's a different mindset.

Americans think "varietal" while the French think "appelation" (actually, limited those mindsets to those two countries is somewhat silly, but you get the idea).

Given this - it's not a shock that American wine drinkers try to view French wines from a "varietal" POV. Nor is it a shock that in France, when you can find California cabs they are rarely looked at as "cabs" but rather as "Napa" or "Sonoma" or just "Californian."

In addition, I think that it is hard for American wine drinkers to relate Merlot to Bordeaux given that in the US the emotional association with Merlot is cheap, fruity, approachable, one dimensional and the emotional association with Bordeaux is expensive, tannic, gourmet and complex. When one then looks at the emotional association American wine drinkers have with Cabernet Sauvignon (expensive, gourmet, tannic and complex) you can see why folks might assume that Bordeaux is mostly Cab.

A couple of useful quotes:

"Cabernet Sauvignon: Grape of great character: spicy, herby, tannic, with characteristic "blackcurrant" aroma. The first grape of the Medoc; also makes most of the best California, S. American, E. European reds. ... Usually benefits from blending with eg Merlot, Cabernet Franc or Syrah." (Hugh Johnson)

"Merlot: Adaptable grape making the great fragrant and plummy wines of Pomerol and (with Cabernet Franc) St-Emilion, an important element in Medoc reds, soft and strong (and a la mode) in California, Washington." (Hugh Johnson)

"In the Medoc the average percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend ranges from 40% to 85%; in Graves, 40% to 60%; in St.-Emilion, 10% to 50%; and in Pomerol, 0% to 20%." (Robert Parker)

"In the Medoc the average percentage of Merlot in the blend ranges from 5% to 45%; in Graves, from 20% to 40%; in St.-Emilion, 25% to 60%; and in Pomerol, 35% to 98%." (Robert Parker)

[Fat Guy]

Are there any Bordeaux wines wherein one of the other three red grape varieties dominates?

[Fat Guy]

willie gluckstern's book suggests that cabernet sauvignon is used more than merlot in bordeaux

Is it a short enough quote to type up?

[malachi]

Are there any Bordeaux wines wherein one of the other three red grape varieties dominates?

I think that there are a few wines from St.-Emilion that have a very high percentage of Cabernet Franc. I will check.

[malachi]

Cheval Blanc has been made with up to 50% Cabernet Franc.

[Carema]

Are there any Bordeaux wines wherein one of the other three red grape varieties dominates?

I think that there are a few wines from St.-Emilion that have a very high percentage of Cabernet Franc. I will check.

Ausone is 50 Merlot 50 Franc. Also, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon are considered very similiar in this area (both Bouchet- gros and petit). It is widely held that Franc is the Daddy Cabernet S. Mommy is Sauvignon Blanc. This baby did not make an appearance until the middle of the 1800s. That is a nice big tasty family.

[Craig Camp]

interesting numbers for sure. 

i don't think i'm the *only* one who associates bordeaux with cabernet sauvignon.  i wonder why that is?  aside from ignorance of course.

Because other than Petrus the most famous classified growths are from the Medoc and use predominately Cabernet Sauvignon. As respected as Ausone and Cheval Blanc are by serious wine lovers - they are not as well known as Lafite, Mouton, Latour, Marqaux, Lynch Bages, Leoville Las Cases and so on - all wines where cabernet is predominate.

[Chef Fowke]

Celler Notes talks about the merlot grape in French wine making and why it is used.

The Merlot grape is a close cousin to Cabernet Sauvignon in many respects. It is lower in tannins and makes wines that mature faster and are softer in texture. Merlot is often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon in order to soften the blend.

Merlot is able to mature in regions that are cooler than those required for Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot is more susceptible to fungus and mold diseases and therefore a bit harder to grow. Merlot varies widely in quality around the world depending on location and producer. This variety was first known for its success in the Saint Emilion and Pomerol areas of Bordeaux. Chateau Petrus is the stellar example of fine Merlot.

Merlot usually has ripe berry components in the bouquet. It's wines tend to be soft, fruity and smooth in texture. Select Merlots can have long aging potential but most are ready to consume in 4 to 8 years.

Merlot is enjoying a surge in popularity and additional acreage is being planted in many major producing regions. It came to California in the mid-1860s and has become one of the most popular wines since its surge in popularity in the 1990s.

[Mark Sommelier]

Chateau Petrus is the stellar example of fine Merlot.

Pet peeve of mine: The label only says Petrus, not Chateau Petrus.

[Fat Guy]

interesting numbers for sure. 

i don't think i'm the *only* one who associates bordeaux with cabernet sauvignon.  i wonder why that is?  aside from ignorance of course.

Because other than Petrus the most famous classified growths are from the Medoc and use predominately Cabernet Sauvignon. As respected as Ausone and Cheval Blanc are by serious wine lovers - they are not as well known as Lafite, Mouton, Latour, Marqaux, Lynch Bages, Leoville Las Cases and so on - all wines where cabernet is predominate.

Though I made the same argument above, let me play devil's advocate for a minute: What percentage of people who would say "Bordeaux is mostly cabernet with some other grapes blended in" have ever had a bottle of Lafite, Mouton, Latour, etc.? How many of them have ever seen a percentage breakdown of the varieties that make up those wines? I think it's safe to say that most people are getting this information second-hand, through expert sources or word-of-mouth (especially salespeople and waiters). So what could explain the misinformation at that level?

[Carema]

they are not as well known as Lafite, Mouton, Latour, Marqaux, Lynch Bages, Leoville Las Cases and so on - all wines where cabernet is predominate.

After doing all this research, it is very questionable to me that Mouton, which comes from Graves is predominately Cab. It was very apparent that cab focused Bdx hail only from the Medoc but there are many exceptions to that rule too. (Haut Brion remember, from Graves as well is 55 cab 25 merlot and 20 CF). I think a lot of wine writing is hyper-focused on these classed Bordeaux all of which, excepting the two mentioned above hail from the Medoc. At one time the quality standards were quite low in Bordeaux and this classification that happened in 1855 (is that right?) was an attempt to boost the standings. Yet the lion's share of the wines were from the Medoc. One can only assume that there were more fiscal resources and better political stature in the Medoc at that time. I think some questions remain:

What percentage of all Bordeaux comes from the Medoc?

What is the cepage of Mouton?

What was going on elsewhere in Bordeaux at the time of the classification?

And yes, someone did try to reclassify the Bordeaux in the 1960s. His name was Alexis Lechine. It did not work.

[Fat Guy]

After doing all this research, it is very questionable to me that Mouton, which comes from Graves is predominately Cab.

"The Mouton-Rothschild estate includes about 185 acres planted with around 85 percent cabernet sauvignon, 8 percent merlot, and 7 percent cabernet franc."

http://eat.epicurious.com/dictionary/wine/...D=2064&ISWINE=T

"Château Mouton Rothschild has 75 hectares of vines in Pauillac, planted with the typical varieties of the region: Cabernet Sauvignon (80%), Cabernet Franc (10%), Merlot (8%), Petit Verdot (2%)."

http://www.margaux.org/rubriques-eng/resul...asp?pos_fiche=1

[Fat Guy]

What percentage of all Bordeaux comes from the Medoc?

"The Médoc At a Glance

Production

Vineyard size 16 000 hectares (15% in red Bordeaux)."

http://www.medoc-bordeaux.com/rubriques-en...tatistiques.htm

I think they probably mean 15% of red Bordeaux come from the Medoc -- it's a translated page.

[Bux]

Of the 61 classed Bordeaux (and these all come from the Medoc save for Haut Brion & Mouton Rothschild, from Graves),

Whoa. Are we talking Ch. Mouton-Rothschield? If so we're talking Médoc. Pauillac to be exact.

Because other than Petrus the most famous classified growths are from the Medoc and use predominately Cabernet Sauvignon. As respected as Ausone and Cheval Blanc are by serious wine lovers - they are not as well known as Lafite, Mouton, Latour, Marqaux, Lynch Bages, Leoville Las Cases and so on - all wines where cabernet is predominate.

Correct regarding Mouton, but I'd give some respect to Haut-Brion, a Graves, myself. I think it's well known, but I'm not that serious. Or should I say my budget is not that serious when it comes to first growths. Admittedly, in 1855, Haut-Brion was classified as one of the four first growths of the Médoc, although it was a Graves. I suppose it was just too famous, and perhaps too good, to be a Graves. I have to let Craig get away on a technicality here.

After doing all this research, it is very questionable to me that Mouton, which comes from Graves is predominately Cab. It was very apparent that cab focused Bdx hail only from the Medoc but there are many exceptions to that rule too. (Haut Brion remember, from Graves as well is 55 cab 25 merlot and 20 CF). I think a lot of wine writing is hyper-focused on these classed Bordeaux all of which, excepting the two mentioned above hail from the Medoc. At one time the quality standards were quite low in Bordeaux and this classification that happened in 1855 (is that right?) was an attempt to boost the standings. Yet the lion's share of the wines were from the Medoc. One can only assume that there were more fiscal resources and better political stature in the Medoc at that time.  I think some questions remain:

Like when did they move Ch. Mouton-Rothschild?

And yes, someone did try to reclassify the Bordeaux in the 1960s. His name was Alexis Lechine. It did not work.

Other's have tried, but this is the first I've heard about reclassifying Mouton as a Graves. For what it's worth, Mouton was classified as a second growth in 1855. Premier ne puis, Second ne daigne, Mouton suis became the motto of the pissed off owners.

I also question the fact that Merlot is the predominant grape in Graves as most of the wine is white, but of course merlot could redominate because of the percentages used the blend of whites and reds and if its yield is low.

[Carema]

Oh god let me just express my horrror. I printed out a paper that listed every classified growth so I could check the cepage of each and Mouton was listed in Pessac! Now that I think of it it is insane but it seemed completely logical at the time. However I did just learn that officially Chateau Margaux has been moved into the middle of Entre Deux Mers.

As for the Graves/Merlot business I will let you know although I guess I will have to double check all my sources. Shoddy and shame on me!