A New Yorker in Austin...

[jas8v]

Hi there everyone - long time reader, first time poster.

I'm going down to Texas next weekend for a friend's wedding in Fort Worth and I decided to take the opportunity to stay a couple days afterwards and drive to Austin, since more than a few people I know have raved about the city.

So, I wanted to take some recommendations (from people in the know) on good places to eat, drink, etc. for a solo 'tourist' in his mid-20s in town from Sunday afternoon to Tuesday afternoon/evening. I don't have anything in particular in mind - I'm game for anything from a hole-in-the-wall to a 4-star place. Cost isn't really a driver either. I'm willing to shell out some cash if it's worth it. I'll be staying at the Stephen F. downtown, but obviously am willing to drive wherever.

Any feedback would be appreciated. I'm totally psyched about my trip anyway - good suggestions will just be a bonus. Thanks!

Edited June 22, 2003 by jas8v (log)

[fitz]

There are SO many places that might be recommended depending on your likes and dislikes in terms of food and atmoshpere that some of the best advice might just be to take a gander at the Austin Food Trail thread, which contains everyones' musings about all sorts of local favorites (and places we wonder about), as well as about the various eGullet get-together sites...

Not all of these places are right downtown, but some are certainly worth a drive, too, so if anyplace catches your eye, feel free to ask about it and I'm sure someone will jump in with some feedback.

One thing I'll say is that you'll have to have breakfast somewhere--and you couldn't go wrong in getting it at Magnolia Cafe... Migas: yum... For that matter, a nice Mexican dinner at Fonda San Miguel wouldn't be a bad thing, either...

[Jaymes]

Ditto suggestion about perusing the Austin Food Trail thread.

And - since you are downtown, don't miss the bats - ask anyone and they'll tell you how to go about seeing them.

I'd also suggest you drive down to Lockhart for lunch one day - go to Smitty's for sure. The BBQ is good, but the main thing is to see that building. Wander through the halls and rooms and imagine the history of the place. It's like visiting a museum of Texas BBQ.

Don't have much time to post right now - but will add more stuff later - and I'm sure the other Austinites will chime in as well.

[NewYorkTexan]

Staying at the Stephen F Austin puts you right in the middle of downtown Austin.

A few random thoughts:

I agree with the suggestions to drive to Lockhart, about 20 miles south of the airport on 183 South. There are three well known bbq places within five minutes of each other; Smittys. Kruetz & Blacks. Maybe pick two of them and compare/contrast.

Bitter End is a good brew pub a few blocks from your hotel that is friendly place to grab a beer and/or a quick bite to eat.

The hotel bar. Steven F.’s is also not a bad place for drinks. Their balcony overlooking Congress Ave. offers some of the best people watching in Austin.

Las Manitas on Congress Ave. for migas is a good breakfast option. You can take a quick drive to Taco Xpress on South Lamar for killer breakfast tacos.

[jas8v]

Thanks for all the tips thus far guys.

Lockhart seems like a good idea - I was able to sample some Kreuz's beef and sausage when they were up here in NYC cooking at this BBQ festival a month or so ago Blue Smoke BBQ Block Party thread and I'm definitely looking forward to going back there as well as checking out some competitors.

I wanted to get some opinions on a couple places mentioned to me by a friend:

Threadgill's

Ironworks BBQ

Salt Lick BBQ

Curra's Grill

I definitely will hit some of the breakfast spots you've mentioned too. I don't usually get the chance to eat breakfast on a regular basis here in NYC - but I'm finishing up my 3-year investment banking assignment this week and I'll be able to savor the little things (like having enough time to eat breakfast) that I've abandoned for the last few years. Thanks again!

[NewYorkTexan]

Threadgills – not worth going to. For that style of cuisine, go to Tony’s on East 6th or Hoovers on Manor.

Ironworks – pass on Ironworks and head directly towards Lockhart. I was a regular at Ironworks when I worked downtown, and it was a few blocks away. Convenient to get a quick smoked meat fix, but there are many stronger BBQ options around central Texas. Only go to Ironworks if you want a place that is walking distance from downtown.

Salt Lick – great if you want a fun place for a large group, but only average bbq with above average sauce.

Curra’s Grill – I have not been there in a while, but was never overwhelmed. My wife was there last week and thought the service was awful and she never is critical of waiters.

[Jaymes]

Threadgills – not worth going to.  For that style of cuisine, go to Tony’s on East 6th or Hoovers on Manor. 

More information on Threadgills.

Speaking just for myself, there are more reasons I enjoy going to a restaurant other than just the food.

There are currently two Threadgills - the original, out on Lamar, and a new one downtown.

The original one has been there for years. My former husband went there when he was in college at UT during the 60's. He remembers sitting around and listening to Kenneth Threadgill warble country tunes. And many local and national musicians got their start there on Wednesday's "open mike night," including Janis Joplin.

It's in an old gas station. Threadgill opened in 1933 selling good Gulf Gasoline. In those days, it was north of Austin on the Dallas Highway and in the late 30's my father often stopped there while driving north to Dallas to court my mother.

Threadgill stood in line all night, they say, to buy the first liquor license in Travis county after the end of prohibition. It's still on the wall - Liquor License #1.

The food may not be quite so good there as it has been in the past, but I still go from time to time, and sit in the main dining room and think back to what it must have been like in "them days."

The meatloaf is still good, the San Antonio Squash Casserole, the Fried Chicken Livers & Gravy, among other things.

I think it's an integral part of old Austin, and I would still recommend it to visitors.

Oh - Ditto on Ironworks. Skip it. Salt Lick can be fun with a group, but since they've started emphasizing quantity over quality the general consensus is that the food has gone downhill. I've also heard talk lately that Kreuz's brisket is pretty bad, and that has been my experience my last two times there, although the pork chop is cosmic.

Edited June 23, 2003 by Jaymes (log)

[Elissa]

may i ask: a friend and quite exceptional chef moved recently (a year ago?) to Austin. Here (nyc) he had a place called the 9th Street Market. There I believe he opened something new: do you know what it is?

[Jaymes]

may i ask: a friend and quite exceptional chef moved recently (a year ago?) to Austin. Here (nyc) he had a place called the 9th Street Market. There I believe he opened something new: do you know what it is?

No names?

That'll make it tough!

[zephyrus]

another que option that is closer to town..John Muellers on Manor rd. (pronounced Maynor). best que in austin and comparable to kreuz and imho better than blacks. also dont miss some local mexican food, gueros on south congress or maudies on lake austin. more expensive options that are always wonderful are castle hill cafe on 5th or Jeffrey's (dubyas favorite) on west lynn. enjoy....

[fitz]

Threadgills – not worth going to.  For that style of cuisine, go to Tony’s on East 6th or Hoovers on Manor. 

Salt Lick – great if you want a fun place for a large group, but only average bbq with above average sauce.

Curra’s Grill – I have not been there in a while, but was never overwhelmed.  My wife was there last week and thought the service was awful and she never is critical of waiters.

Some of the offerings at Threadgills are worthwhile, like the pecan-crusted friend chicken--nothing wrong with that... but I don't care at all for most of their veggie sides. Most are too overcooked and mushy for my tastes.

I have to confess that after 16 months, we have yet to make it to the "real" Salt Lick, only the new one on 360 at Davenport Village (which was a perfectly nice place to grab a quick bite after a haircut!)...

Curra's has left me underwhelmed, too. Their mole's not bad, but the service is usually kind of iffy "though not as bad as Kerbey Lane, the Research one). I've got to say, another place I've heard talked up a lot that just didn't cut it was El Sol y la Luna (only went there after various shows at the Continental Club). Decent music, but the food's never been worth it, and the lighting can be pretty damned harsh.

Haven't been to Hoover's, but we took his class at CM and loved everything he made, especially his squash with chipotle, which we've done at home with great results.

Las Manitas is the other local favorite that I just don't get... The food wasn't that great, there's virtually no atmosphere (or no NICE atmosphere, anyway), I felt incredibly rushed, and I hate places that serve you soda in the can and just give you a plastic glass with a few ice cubes. Ick... They also charge you for every darned extra... heaven forbid you ask for sour cream on the side or something--that'll cost you probably 20% of your meal extra... (Sorry, I'm just being bitter, but that sort of niggling gets to me!)

[BigboyDan]

We've gone over this; thread:

http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?act=ST...T&f=28&t=13868&

Oh, and enjoy the heat and humidity...

[memesuze]

Don't know if I will catch you with this before you arrive in and depart Austin, but I think this week's Chronicle raves over the appetizer spread at the Roaring Fork, at the Stephen F. Austin Hotel

memesuze

[jas8v]

Thanks so much for everyone's tips and suggestions. I had a great time during my short trip to Austin (despite the heat and humidity) and I'm going to seriously consider UT as I think about business school. I thought Austin's mix of traditional Texas feel, its college town atmosphere, and hippie-ish air was really intriguing.

Anyway, a short rundown of the places I ate:

Smitty's & Kreuz's: I hit both of these places during a lunchtime trip to Lockhart. At each place I tried some beef shoulder (as opposed to the fattier brisket) and a sausage ring. Both places were amazing, better than any BBQ I've ever had. I did think Smitty's was a little better. The beef was a little more tender and a little less fatty than at Kreuz's. I also thought Kreuz's was a little too salty, but that might just be me. I would definitely go back to either one though, and I'll have to check out Black's next time I'm in the area to complete the trifecta.

Magnolia Cafe: Hit Magnolia (on Lake Austin Blvd., not S. Congress) for a quick breakfast. Tried the migas, as recommended, and thought it was great. It was the first time I'd ever had it, but I definitely want to have more of it. Wish it had been a little spicier, but again, personal preference. Thought the OJ was quite good as well!

Hut's Hamburgers: Had the Wolfman Jack burger (sour cream, dicied chilies, jack cheese, bacon) and some onion rings and fries. Not the best burger I've ever had, but it sure hit the spot at the time. Also had perhaps the best vanilla coke I've ever had.

Threadgill's: Had the chicken fried steak with cheese grits and red beans and rice on the side. The chicken fried steak was one of the better versions I've had, freshly and crisply fried with the cream gravy being just salty enough. The cheese grits were decadently gooey and tasty but the red beans and rice were a poor choice - bland and just sort of there, making no impression(I probably should've known better). Good lemonade too!

Sandy's Hamburgers/Frozen Custard: Had a bacon cheeseburger and a large vanilla cone. Burger was big and tasty and the custard was rich and a great antidote to the weather.

Amy's Ice Cream: As I drove into town on the way to my hotel, I stopped for a cup of the Sweet Cream flavor, a deliciously cold cup of sugary goodness. I'll have to go back to try the Shiner flavor.

Now I'm just waiting for the next chance I have to make it back. What a great town!

[Jaymes]

Magnolia Cafe: Hit Magnolia (on Lake Austin Blvd., not S. Congress) for a quick breakfast.  Tried the migas, as recommended, and thought it was great.  It was the first time I'd ever had it, but I definitely want to have more of it.  Wish it had been a little spicier, but again, personal preference.

Jas -

Re the "wish it had been a little spicier" thing...

When eating Mexican food, just ask for some salsa or sliced jalapenos - that's how the rest of us control the "picante" to suit our personal taste.

And thanks so much for letting us know how it went. It's so discouraging when you give advice to folks and never hear a word!

[foodie52]

Good lord! This is a serious foodie here! I am really impressed. By the way...the UT Business school is one of the best in the country...so if you have the option to come here, AND be part of the egullet group, ...

WHAT'S YOUR PROBLEM??????????????

Move down here asap!