Malaysia Restaurants

[Pan]

Thanks, SG-

I've been enjoying the coconut water vendors sell.

I had great satay in PJ last night, but since a friend took me, I have no idea where the place was.

[Shiewie]

Hi Pan

Glad you have been finding your way around KL and PJ.

There is a 'Thai Chicken' dish that I've tried at several Malaysian Chinese eateries where marinated chicken is deep fried and is covered with sweetish chilli sauce and thinly sliced fresh shallots.

Is the Thai Chicken at Restoran West Lake something like this? I haven't been there before so don't know what their version of Thai Chicken is like.

There are quite a few road side eateries along Jalan Sultan that are open till fairly late at night, if you don't mind the grubby surroundings. One of them that I've tried is on the pavement just outside the Swiss Inn. The tables are kind of dark as they are set up along the verandah of the closed shop houses along Jalan Sultan with a few flourescent lights strung across. It opens from 9pm onwards.

[Pan]

Yes, Shiewie, the Thai Chicken fits your description.

Thanks for the other descriptions.

I have a printout of all the advice in this thread which I brought with me, and I've referred to it somewhat but haven't had a chance to post a lot.

[Shiewie]

Hi guys-

I have to make a day trip to Ipoh (via Penang) next week (am based in Spore).  Will have time for lunch in Ipoh and dinner in Penang.  Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Sorry! Didn't see this till it was too late. The place that I usually stop at in Ipoh for lunch if we're going to be in Ipoh for the day or on the way up to Penang is this coffee shop in the old part of Ipoh (they call it Old Town) called "Theen Jun". It's famous for it's Ipoh Sar Hor Fun, creme caramel and the satay which the satay man dumps on your table whether you order it or not.

Oh well, perhaps for another trip.

[Pan]

Shiewie:

I first of all want to thank you and Maukitten for a fabulous feast at Greenlake (is that the right name for the place you took me to that specializes in seafood?).

My plans have changed. I've had a wonderful time visiting with old friends in Kg. Merchang, Terengganu. I'm still there and plan on leaving probably the day after tomorrow. I figure I'll have time to spend a couple of days in Kota Baru but probably insufficient time to go to southern Thailand and do much there, so I'm thinking instead of going across to Ipoh for a couple of days before I go back to KL (though I have to check bus schedules for timings). My parents will be staying in Terengganu for some time to come, though. So my updated requests are:

Chinese and Indian restaurants in Kuala Terengganu

Any worthwhile eateries anyone wants to mention in Kota Baru and Ipoh.

I've had a wonderful time in Malaysia, and the food has been excellent in Terengganu and much more consistently good than it was in 1975-77, when Chinese food in the cities was marvelous but Malay food in the kampung was spotty.

[Shiewie]

Shiewie:

I first of all want to thank you and Maukitten for a fabulous feast at Greenlake (is that the right name for the place you took me to that specializes in seafood?).

It's Greenview.

So my updated requests are:

Chinese and Indian restaurants in Kuala Terengganu

Kuala Terengganu Indian Eateries

I've never been to an Indian restaurant in Kuala Teregganu as we're usually there for Chinese New Year or Cheng Meng (All Souls Day)... so it's generally Chinese food during the visits apart from nasi dagang, roti paung and kuih for breakfast and keropok lekor for snacks. Anyway, here is a list of Indian Muslim restaurants from a couple of Malaysian tourism sites - Site 1 Site 2

• Afzal Restoran - 27, Jalan Sultan Mahmud Batu Buruk, Kuala Terengganu Tel : +609-623 2913
  
• Restoran Sharah Tanduri - Jalan Air Jernih, Kuala Terengganu
  
• Restoran Shalimar - 1F Jalan Air Jernih, Kuala Terengganu Tel: +609-623 7777
  
• Restoran Kari Asha - 1H Jalan Jalan Air Jernih, Kuala Terengganu
  
• Restoran Arilang - 467 Jalan Besar, Paka Tel: +609-827 2369
  
• Sri Shamugan Restoran-59B Jalan Tok Lam, Kuala Terengganu
  

Kuala Terengganu Chinese Eateries

The Chinese restaurant I remember best (or rather it's the only one I really remember) in Kuala Terengganu is Golden Dragon Restaurant at 198 Jalan Bandar in Chinatown. Have been there since we were kids and my dad / uncles would just ask them to prepare whatever they think is good.

For the more listings on Chinese restaurants in KT, I'm afraid that I'll have to cut and paste from the Malaysian tourism sites again as I don't remember the places:

• Wah Chai Kedai Makan - 162, Jalan Bandar, Kuala Terengganu Tel: +609-622 2162
  
• Goodluck Seafood Restaurant - 11Y, Jalan Kota Lama, Kuala Terengganu Tel: +609-622 7573
  
• Restoran Chuan Kee - 11U, Jalan Kota Lama, Kuala Terengganu Tel: +609-623 3757
  
• Everday Restoran - 11J , Jalan Engku Sar, Kuala Terengganu, Terengganu Darul Iman. Tel: +609-622 1395
  
• Tian Kee Restoran - 136/2, Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin, Kuala Terengganu Tel: +609-622 4375
  
• Restoran Ocean - Lot 2679, Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin, Kuala Terengganu Tel: +609-623 9154
  
• Restoran KT Wok-1081W, Jalan Sultan Sulaiman, Kuala Terengganu (Hey ! Think these lists on the tourism sites are not updated - we used to go to this place as well on our annual visits but think it's been closed for at least 3 years)
  
• Restoran New Rose Garden - Jalan Air Jernih, Kuala Terengganu
  
• Restoran Saujana Seafood - 169-S, Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin, Kuala Terengganu
  
• Ho Weng Fatt Restaurant - Jalan Engku Sar, Kuala Terengganu Tel: +609-623 9854
  
• Ng Gok Soon Restaurant - Jalan Engku Sar, Kuala Terengganu
  
• Ng Say Hock Restaurant - Jalan Engku Sar, Kuala Terengganu
  
• Phang Lee Men Restaurant - Jalan Air Jernih, Kuala Terengganu
  

If you're in KT in the morning, try the kuih in the shop opposite Golden Dragon or at any of the coffeeshops in Chinatown - the kuih on the East Coast is slightly different from what we get in the West Coast.

Any worthwhile eateries anyone wants to mention in Kota Baru and Ipoh.

Kota Bahru

Will extract the list from the Flavours food mag guide for Kota Bahru later today.

Ipoh

We usually stop-over for lunch at this coffee-shop in the old part of town (Jalan Bandar Timah, Ipoh Old Town). It's called Theen Jun/Thean Chun/Tin Jun (don't remember how it's spelt, just translating from the Cantonese pronunciation) and is famed for it's Ipoh Sar Hor Fun (flat rice noodles in a rich prawn and chicken stock with slices of prawns, chicken and chives). There'a also a satay man who dumps a plate of satay on your table whether you want it or not - he'll come and count how many sticks you've eaten once you've finished your meal. The creme caramel is pretty good too.

The list below is from a Malaysian food review site on geocities (the KL recommendations are generally places that are pretty good so I think the Ipoh ones should be fairly reliable...it's also got Thean Chun listed)

• Restoran Tuck Kee - Jalan Yau Tet Shin, Ipoh. Braised hor fun, fried hor fun (dry type), braised chicken feet and bean sprouts. Open for dinner from 7pm.
  
• Kedai Kopi Kong Heng - Jalan Bandar Timah (previously Leech Street), Ipoh Old Town. It's next to Thean Chun - have never tried it since we end up at Thean Chun each time we are in Ipoh. Ipoh sar hor fun, rojak, duck noodles. Open for breakfast and lunch.
  
• Wong Koh Kee Restaurant - 3 Panglima Lane, Ipoh Tel: +605 241-9474
  (in the alley opposite Kedai Kopi Thean Chun). Braised fish head, steamed eggs, fried watercress, double boiled soup. Open for lunch only.
  
• Restoran Wong (Tauge Ayam) - Jalan Yau Tet Shin, Ipoh. Steamed chicken, bean sprouts, rice and flat rice noodles. Open for dinner from 6.30pm
  
• Restoran Onn Kee (Tauge Ayam) - Jalan Yau Tet Shin, Ipoh. Similar food to that at Restoran Wong. Open for dinner only
  
• Sticky rice and soy sauce duck - Jalan Yau Tet Shin, Ipoh (opposite Wong and Onn Kee). Open for lunch and dinner.
  
• F.M.S. Bar & Restaurant - 2, Jalan Sultan Idris Shah, Ipoh Tel: +605-253-7678. Open for lunch and dinner
  
• Kedai Kopi Nam Heong - Jalan Bukit Timah, Ipoh (opposite Kong Heng) - known for their frothy White Coffee
  
• Foh San - 2 Jalan Dato Tahwil Azar (formerly Jalan Osborne) 30300 Ipoh Tel: +605-2540308. Dim Sum (They have a branch in PJ which is mediocre but it seems the original in Ipoh is loads better)
  

[Shiewie]

Kota Baru Eateries

- extracted from Flavours Kelantan Good Food Guide (May - June 2003)

Malay Food

[*] Restoran Arafah Seafood Garden

256 Jalan Kebun Sultan (intersection with Jalan Wakat Mek Zainab). Tel:+609 7443 8900. Opens Thu-Sat 11am-4pm and 6pm-11pm; Friday 3-11pm.

Malay food with a touch of Thai. Siakap Goreng Arafah, fried chicken with cashews, Kheng Som Siakap (hot and spicy Thai soup with bamboo shoots and herbs)

[*] Restoran Cikgu

Under Kampung Kraftangan (opposite Istana Baru). Tel: +6019-946 6665. Opens 7.30am-6pm. Closes Fridays

Specialises in freshwater fish such as catfish and Patin. Catfish is usually deep-fried and Patin cooked asam pedas-style.

[*]Hover Restaurant (pork-free)

1963-A, Jalan Dato Pati. Tel: +609-748 1439. Opens for lunch only until about 3.30pm. Closes on Fridays

Drawcard of this Chinese owned restaurant is the Malay rice seller whose specialty is nasi Sumatera.

[*]Zakini Nasi Kukus

437 Berek 12 Jalan Abdul Kadir Adabi. Tel: +609-743 9428. Opens 12pm-11pm daily.

Nasi Kukus (steamed rice) with an array of dishes and ulam (Malay salads)

[*]Sate Jawa Tulin (halal)

109 Sek 25 Jultan Sultan Yahya Petra Opens 6pm-6am. Tel: +6013-963 6884.

Dinner and all night supper place. The Javanese satay sauce is slightly sweeter than the usual satay sauce

[*]Mak Su Nab Nasi Air

Berek 12 Jalan Adul Kadir Adabi. Opens daily.

Nasi air, a Kelatanese specialty where cooked rice is served in a clear chicken broth with chicken pieces. The glutinous rice desserts, pulut durian and pulut pisang (banana) are also recommended.

[*] Nasi Daging / Ayam Bakar

Located beside the former Lido Cinema, Jalan Post Office Lama. Opens for lunch daily except Friday.

Malay warung that sells roast beef and chicken with rice. Also recommended are the sup ekor (oxtail soup) and sup kambing (mutton soup)

[*] Restoran Syam

594-N Berek 12 Jalan Abdul Kadir Adabi. Tel: +609-748 4713/747 2045. Opens 11am-3.30pm, 5.30pm-8.30pm.

Otak-Otak (spicy seafood souffle) and spicy fried crabs.

[*]Roses Cafe (in the New Pacific Hotel)

Seksyen 26 Jalan Pengkalan Chepa (intersection with Jalan Dusun Muda). Tel: +609-735 1111.

Daily buffet lunch at RM30 (USD7.50).

[*]Capital Cafe (Chinese-run, pork-free Malay fare)

234 Jalan Post Office Lama (beside Padang Merdeka). Opens 7am to noon. No fixed rest day.

Nasi berlauk - a traditional Kelantanese breakfast of rice with meat or fish especially the nasi lauk daging (beef). Also the place for nasi dagang which is double-steamed.

Indian Food

[*]Restoran Nasi Kandar Istimewa (halal)

4086-C Jalan Sultan Yahya Petra. Tel: +609-747 1012. Opens 7am-2am daily, rice served from 9am onwards.

A taste of Penang in Kota Bahru. Besides rice, tandoori, capati, roti canai and mee goreng are seved from 5pm onwards.

[*]Sri Dewi (pork-free)

4213F Jalan Kebun Sultan (opposite Chinese Chamber of Commerce).

Banana-leaf Indian rice in Kota Baru.

[*]Meena Curry House (pork-free)

3377-C, Jalan Gajah Mati. Tel: +609 609 741 0173. Opens 10.30am-9.30pm daily.

[*]Neelawathy Indian Rice (pork-free)

380 Jalan Tengku Maharani (behind Kencana Inn). Tel: +609-744 6202. Opens daily from 11am-11pm.

Thai Food

[*]Chiengmai Thai Food Restaurant (non-halal)

Lot 107 Kampung Kulim, Wakaf Bharu. Tel: +609-718 1546. Opens 6pm to midnight. Closes during major Chinese and Thai festivals.

The most popular Thai restaurant in Kota Baru, it is is Tumpat district, across the river from Kota Baru, about 6km from town. Speicalties are Volcano Chicken (roast chicken served on a bed of flames ignited with brandy), jellyfish kerabu (Thai style jellyfish salad), roast prok trotters, kangkung rapuh (crispy deep-fried kangkung smothered in a sweet-sour Thai style sauce), fire-ant (kerengga) eggs and spicy-stir-fried eel.

[*] Ying Restaurant

4933-B Jalan Wakaf Mek Zainab. Tel: +6019-981 1563.

Memorable spicy stir-fried eel.

Chinese Food

[*]Choo Choon Huay Restaurant (non-halal)

149 Jalan Post Office Lama. Tel: +609-748 1720 /4063.

Popular place for wedding feasts. Signature dish of pig trotters with dumplings.

[*]D'Prosperous (halal)

123 Jalan Che Su. Tel: +609-743 0523. Opens 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10pm

Located in Crystal Lodge Hotel. Set dinner for 3 costs RM38. Specialties include Siamese fried fish, garlic prawns, Hong Kong beancurd in crabmeat sauce and black-pepper stir-fried venison.

[*]Dynasty Restaurant (halal)

Renaissance Hotel, Jalan Sultan Yahya Petra. Tel: +609-746 2233. Opens 12.30-2.30pm, 6.30-10.30pm.

Eat-all-you-can dim sum promotion for about RM20 per person.

[*]The Fame Kopitiam (aka Golden City, non-halal)

3950-G Jalan Padang Garong. Tel: +609-743 9372.

Noodles with trotters, curry mee, fried stuffed beancurd, Indonesian curry fish with rice.

[*]Four Seasons Restaurants (halal)

5670 B2/3 Jalan Dusun Raja. Tel: +609-734 6666/7399. Opens noon-2.3-pm, 6-10pm.

Popular for wedding dinners. Specialties include O Chien (fried oyster omelette), asam Siakap (seabass cooked asam style), home-made fish balls, fried kampung (free-range) chicken, steamboat (hot-pot), special fishhead tomyam in taro soup and butter prawns. Teochew porridge with stewed duck is served for late breakfast and lunch.

[*]Restoran Kam Pan (non-halal)

4211-H Jalan Kebun Sultan. Tel: +6012-383 8058. Opens 5.30am-11.30am daily.

Congee (Cantonese style) breakfast place. Specialises in Ikan Haruan (snakehead fish) porridge and meehoon (rice vermicelli).

[*]How Kee Noodles

2818-G Jalan Che Su. Tel: +609-748 5884. Opens Mon-Sat from 10am-4pm.

Char-siew and wonton noodles.

[*]Lim Hin Seafood (non-halal)

Jalan Pengekalan Chepa (at the junction with Jalan Dusun Muda, opposite New Pacific Hotel). Tel: +609-747 6000. Opens 5pm-1am.

[*]Mui Kee Yong Tau Foo (non-halal)

Jalan Wakaf Mek Zainab. Tel: +6019-966 5919. Closes alternate Sundays.

[*]Wang Court Restaurant (non-halal)

5640 NM Seksyen 27, Jalan Sri Cemerlang

Hainanese Coffee Shop Fare

[*]Ann Loke Cafe (pork-free)

1183-C Jalan Ismail. Tel: +609-744 4586. Opens 9am-4pm. Closes on public holidays.

Chicken rice with steamed chicken, deep-fried chicken or chicken braised in soy sauce.

[*]Kedai Kopi White House (pork-free)

1329-L Jalan Sultanah Zainab. Tel: +609-748 4119. Opens 8am-1.30pm, 9pm-1am. Rest days are not fixed, advaisable to call first.

A Kota Baru institution, known as the "Coliseum" of Kota Baru. Perfectly done half-boiled eggs and charcoal toasted bread with butter and kaya (coconut jam). Fairly good local coffee. Breakfast and supper place.

[*]STR Family Restaurant (halal)

782-A Jalan Temenggong. Tel: +609-746 2225. Opens 11am to 10.30pm. Closes on alternate Wednesdays.

Local fare - chilli fish, nasi goreng belacan (fried rice with shrimp paste), Hainanese chicken chop, black pepper steak, tom yam and Air Batu Campur (ABC - a local dessert of sweetened boiled red beans, cream corn, shredded agar-agar, soaked basil seeds covered with shavewd ice and topped with rose syrup, evaporated milk and a scoop of ice-cream).

[*]Sun Hwa (pork-free)

1183-I Jalan Ismal. Tel: +609-748 2279. Closes on public holidays.

Mee goreng, tom yam, chicken chop, fish chop, steak and fish & chips.

[Pan]

Thank you as always, Shiewie.

My folks went to Golden Dragon the other day and brought back some food for me. The stuff they got was OK but nothing special to me. Did they order wrong? I had a fried fish that tasted like a normal Malay ikan goreng, a cucumber dish with dried shrimp that was pretty good, and a soothing chicken soup with that white rhizome I keep forgetting the name of - soothing, but not something amazingly delectable like the cili udang galah we used to have at a restaurant that used to be near there (actually, we thought it might have been on the same site).

[Pan]

I went to Golden Dragon today with my parents, and I took Shiewie's suggestion of asking them to give me what they like best. They gave me some soothing food that was good for my stomach, which was upset earlier in the day. I had mixed vegetables (including tofu skin) with little dried shrimps, which was nice, and a pork and lotus root soup, which again was very soothing. I think the place is good if accepted for what it seems to be: A place to get simple, homey (hamish, in Yiddish or New York English, which amounts to the same thing) food.

My parents and I wonder whether the location is the same as the place where we used to get hacked pork and cili udang galah in the 70s. It may be. I spoke with the proprietress, whose looks reminded me of the proprietress in those days. She said that her mother was indeed the proprietress of the restaurant and is still living, and that she will tell her mother about us. Her father, the cook, is dead. But if it's the same place, in those days, they didn't use steam trays, and the food was better.

[Pan]

I'm so happy to be in Kota Bharu now! I'm staying a hotel right across the street from the Pasar Malam (Night Market) and just went to Yati and got Ayam Percik (chicken roasted with coconut milk and various spices), which came with rice, shredded coconut, a delicious blend of herbs, and sauce. With some Te O Ais (iced tea with sugar but no condensed milk), it was a great meal. I then walked around the pasar and, at one booth, got some quail eggs (which really aren't much different from chicken eggs, though smaller), and at another, got a wood-baked cake with beans. A banana murtabak (a sort of crepe-like thing) from yet another booth is waiting in a bag.

[ecr]

I wonder if this should be a new topic ... on an upcoming trip to KL, I'm hoping --- in addition to doing my best to sample as many recommendations in this thread as possible --- to satisfy a couple of longstanding non-Malaysian cravings as well. Any suggestions for spots serving delicious

Middle Eastern (Lebanese or otherwise) and/or

Sichuan

cusine in KL?

[Shiewie]

Hi ecr

There is a sprinkling of Middle-Eastern restaurants in KL mainly in the Jalan Bukit Bintang / Jalan Sultan Ismail area. They're all fairly new and have appeared in the last 3 years catering to the influx of Middle-Eastern tourists in KL.

- Alhambra on Jalan Setiapuspa in Medan Damansara

Moroccan food - I like their couscous with 7 vegetables and chicken tagine. Mains are around RM30-ish to RM40-ish. This is in the suburbs and may be a bit difficult to get to unless you drive there or take a cab.

- Al Sabeel in the Jalan Telawi area in Bangsar

Didn't like the food here - thought it was very mediocre. The hummous was a bit bland and the sambosak pastry hard. Here's a link to a review in the restaurant. However, the place looked dark the last couple of times I passed it and it may have since closed.

- Middle Eastern food promotion at Cafe Serena Brasserie at Nikko Hotel on Jalan Ampang

Went to the middle-eastern food promo there last year where they brought in a trio of Iranian chefs and loved it. Most memorable were their lamb koftas, a rice dish with sour cherries and Om Ali. There is an Iranian food promotion on again at Nikko Hotel at the moment until the 28th of Aug.

- Sahara Tent in Hotel Fortuna on Jalan Berangan (off Jalan Sultan Ismail, it's the first left from the intersection with Jalan Bukit Bintang)

Haven't been there are good reviews on it in The Star's dining out section (but it's difficult to rely on food reviews in Malaysian newspapers as they are all overwhelmingly positive), Fried Chillies website and the kopitiam forum on the Fried Chillies site.

- Restaurant at the Islamic Arts Museum - in the Lake Gardens area, behind the National Mosque

Have heard really good things about it from some of my colleagues who have been but have yet to get round to trying it. Here's a review of it on the Fried Chillies site.

- Tarbush on Jalan Bukit Bintang (another outlet in Ampang)

A friend who works in the area sees hoards of Middle-Eastern tourists there but the comments in the Kopitiam forum on the Fried Chillies site are not positive.

Think there are a couple more along Jalan Bukit Bintang and Jalan Sultan Ismail but I haven't been there in quite a while.

[ecr]

Thanks, Shiewie --- an incredibly detailed and useful reply, as always! Ugh, I am missing the Nikko promotion by one day.

What about Sichuan food?

And c'mon now ... let's here about more finds in Saigon (the fish noodles are great, thanks for that!)!

[Shiewie]

I haven't been to a Sichuan / Szechuan restaurant in a long time.

Most Chinese restaurants in hotels in KL serve some Sichuan / Szechuan dishes though it's mainly the Cantonese dishes that prevail (Spring Garden in Crown Princess on Jalan Tun Razak does Cantonese, Szechuan and Hunanese, Tang Palace in Dynasty Hotel on Jalan Ipoh does Cantonese and Szechuan, Li Yen at the Ritz Carlton on Jalan Imbi does Cantonese and Szechuan and Ming Palace at the Corus Hotel on Jalan Ampang does Szechuan, Cantonese and Shanghainese. All of them are halal (kosher)). I've dined at 3 out of the 4 places mentioned and have always thought that they were more Cantonese.

There is also the Meisan Szechuan Restaurant at the Quality Hotel City Centre on Jalan Raja Laut (what used to be the Holiday Inn City Centre) - I haven't tried it though.

There is also a little Szechuan Restaurant (think it's called just that too) on a side road off Jalan Sultan Ismail that has been around for ages (in the shops behind the Regent Hotel, near its carpark exit. The road is the first right off Jalan Sultan Ismail if you're coming from the direction of Jalan Bukit Bintang). I remember going there as a six year old! However I'm not sure whether it's still around and if it is, whether the food is still good. A friend said that she still saw it there when she last passed that lane. You've piqued my curiousity though and now I'll have to revisit it soon.

Ok, ok will get round to posting about the Saigon eateries though I mainly followed your recommendations and those in the AWSJ article. Would you like AWSJ Eat segment on KL? I can PM that to you.

[Shiewie]

Yes, have extracted and posted it in this thread whenever the relevant restaurant comes up. Anyway, will PM it to you.

If you're interested in a fancy Chinese meal while in KL, I just heard from a foodie friend that the former chef of Li Yen the Chinese restaurant in Ritz Carlton, has just opened his own place, Chef Choy on Jalan Ampang, opposite the Corus Hotel. She raves on about his cooking but warns that it will be pricey.

Also, if you'd like a touch of East Malaysia during your KL munchathon, I just read in a local daily that the Makan-Makan Restaurant at the The Coronade Hotel on Jalan Walter Grenier (behind the Lot 10 Shopping Complex) is having a Sabah Food Festival till 5th Sept. It's RM30+ for the buffet lunch (weekdays only) or dinner.

[Pan]

I didn't try any of the Persian or Arab restaurants in KL because I was too busy having Malaysian food. Truth be told, I prefer Malaysian food to the Arab food I've had (an unfair comparison because I haven't been to any Arab countries yet), and while I happily eat Arab food in New York, I'd be a lot more likely to check out Persian in Malaysia, given a long enough stay. From what I know about Persian food, it's a highly sophisticated cuisine that uses wonderful flavors like pomegranate syrup, and it's not too easy to find that cuisine in New York. I'd also love to visit Isfahan one of these days. My flight to Malaysia flew over Iran, and the country was ruggedly beautiful from the air.

I engaged in a degree of debauchery during my last couple of days in PJ/KL. I went to Restoran Oversea in the Amcorp Shopping Center in PJ for dinner, and said I wanted to eat rice with fish, plus a vegetable dish. I said I wanted steamed fish, but left the choice of fish up to them. The vegetables were thin asparagus in sambal belacan, and they were perfectly cooked. I forget what the fish was - some river fish - but it was also perfect of its type. It was very expensive by Malaysian standards, as I expected it would be. The fish was RM 55 and the meal as a whole cost RM 72 - outlandishly expensive, but from my viewpoint, I had economized for almost the entire trip, and it was less than $20 for top-quality food that really couldn't have been better of its type (i.e., one could have other dishes, but not better-quality dishes of the exact same type, I think).

The next day, I went to the Concorde Hotel and had dim sum lunch at Xin. This time, I pigged out, getting 8 plates. Chicken feet came with a delicious red sauce and had none of the cod liver oil taste common in U.S. chickens. Fish cakes with meat underneath were clearly Malaysian in style, coming with a lovely yellow curry sauce including some galangal and plenty of hot pepper. Vegetable shiu mai were far superior to versions I've had in New York. Roast pork sandwiches (in sesame buns) were a revelation - sweet and savory, with red bean paste, I think. Red pork buns (pao) were similarly far superior to New York versions, and elicited a smile of recognition from me, as I used to go to the Imperial Court (or was it Dragon Court?) in the Hotel Merlin, which the Concorde used to be called. Etc. And they have live music: A young woman who played erhu and Chinese harp. She's quite skilled at both but a real virtuoso on the harp. The meal came to RM 55.

My last taste of Malaysian cooking was the satay I brought onto the plane, which came from Restoran South Pacific in PJ - 10 skewers for RM 7, a much more normal price for food in Malaysia - and was a nice way to say goodbye to Malaysia, for now.

[Shiewie]

The steamed fish at Oversea Restaurant - was it a Patin? It's a river fish with fatty belly bits. RM72 for one person is a quite a lot for dinner for one by Malaysian standards but Patin can be pricey. How was it steamed?

I'm glad you enjoyed your dim sum at Xin at Concorde. It's a pity that Maukitten and I couldn't meet you for lunch but there isn't enough time to make it to town from PJ and back during lunch time. Now only if my office were still next door to the Concorde - I really miss the dim sum lunches there.

Do tell us more about the food in Kota Baru, Ipoh and the home cooking at Kg Merchang.

[Pan]

Shiewie, I'm not sure what the name of the fish was. I was served what seemed to be part of the belly and the attached tail, so I think the fish was a fair degree larger than what I got (which was plenty). It had white flesh with a bit of fat (not that much) and its skin was black checkered with brown or gray. The best thing about it was how perfectly fresh it was. It was presented to me with a flame under it still lightly cooking it. It was already cooked and tender with just a bit of pleasant chewiness, yet it didn't get overcooked before I finished eating.

In Ipoh, I bought two samosas in the India Town that were just fantastic! Here's a description I gave in an email to friends:

I headed into India Town and bought two samosas that were just amazing.

When I buy samosas in New York, they're kind of dry and have a little potato filling. These were filled to

the brim with onions and then also had some potatoes in them, and they were so tasty!

In the New Town, I visited a Chinese seafood restaurant. I can't find the name of the place or its exact location, but I recall that it was sort of behind the New Cathay Hotel, where there's an Internet place. If you're facing in the direction of the Old Town on Jalan C.M. Yusuf, turn right after the New Cathay Hotel and walk a couple of blocks. It proclaims in big letters that it has seafood, so if you're on the right street, you really can't miss it. The place was Cantonese, and I ordered steamed fish much as I did at Oversea, with Kangkung Belacan. It was also a very good and somewhat though not outlandishly expensive meal (the fish was trout, and it cost some RM 29 or something, such that the whole meal was about RM 34). I spoke some with the waiter, who's the son of the owner, and he told me that he goes to a kampung every day to buy fresh fish.

I finally ran into the big Tauge Ayam street on my last night in Ipoh. Having unfortunately previously eaten, I could only order some chicken to be packed away for the next morning's trip to KL. The chicken itself was nothing special after a night in the refrigerator, but the red sauce was great. It had live chili, ginger, and various other things in it.

I ate very well in Kota Bharu. I was there for four nights and went to the Pasar Malam every night. During the day, I went to the Pasar Besar, whatever its exact name was. This is from an email I wrote to friends:

My last lunch in Kota Bharu was Nasi Ulam. Nasi is the word for cooked rice, and Ulam is a Malay salad of raw vegetables, cultivated or/and wild, and it can be eaten with various sambals (sauces). I had mine with chili sauce. For lauk (hard to translate - something to have with the rice), I got fried catfish, and a little sayur

(mixed vegetables cooked in coconut milk with fresh red chilis) was also dumped on my plate. Even though I

was still having some intestinal irritation (which is mostly gone now), I simply couldn't pass up a chance

to taste the young leaves of the cashew tree before I left the East Coast. The cashew leaves that restaurant

in the central market (which is a few blocks from the Night Market, in a building as opposed to operating

under tents in a square) lacked the freshness of the leaves I used to pick directly off the tree, but their

wonderful, indescribable fragrance was intact, and the other leaves that were on the plate were also

excellent. When the waiter noticed I still had plenty of rice after finishing the fish and sayur, he offered

to add more lauk, and I asked for more sayur, a dish which for me is also a nostalgic remembrance of old

days in the village. The whole thing, with sugared iced tea, may have cost RM 6 or so, if that (and that

would be less than $2).

P.S. about the intestinal irritation: It disappeared completely while I was in Ipoh.

Food in Kg. Merchang ranges from chicken or fish fried with a delicious blend of spices to fish cooked in a red chili sauce, chicken curry, etc., etc. (many good vegetable dishes, too, including a type of salad featuring cucumbers, onions, and small slices of red chili with a sweet/sour blend of water, sugar, and vinegar). There's much more influence of Thai food than there used to be. Pad prik (spelled Paprik, etc.) is available in local stores and all up and down the coast. When I was in the Pasar Malam in Kota Bharu, I finally tried a Malaysian rendition of Tom Yam soup. It was delicious but the beef (kerbau?) and chicken in it were unduly tough to my taste.

The fruits in Terengganu were fantastic. I used to hate durian, but no longer, and a friend and old classmate of mine has a red durian tree, whose fruit was the greatest. But I still prefer rambutan. Rambutan available all over Terengganu is wonderful, whereas the rambutan I bought in KL was tasteless and caused me to wonder what the big deal was and why I remembered rambutan as a great fruit. It is indeed a great fruit, but the further it goes from the trees where it was picked, the more taste it loses. I loved the bananas, too. I wasn't able to find my previous favorite - pisang kelat keling - but some kelat (tart) varieties were available in the Pasar Besar in both Kuala Terengganu and Marang. I also enjoyed Jambu Air (a crunchy, watery type of guava that has a tart, lemony flavor).

One odd thing about modern Malaysia is that you can get most things you want at Mydin's in Kuala Terengganu, but Ziploc bags seem to be unavailable, at least in those parts, so anyone who thinks they may need some is well advised to bring them from home.

[Shiewie]

Rambutan available all over Terengganu is wonderful, whereas the rambutan I bought in KL was tasteless and caused me to wonder what the big deal was and why I remembered rambutan as a great fruit. It is indeed a great fruit, but the further it goes from the trees where it was picked, the more taste it loses.

It is hard to find the elusive perfect rambutan in KL - sweet, juicy, crunchy and where the woody skin doesn't come off the seed when you bit into the flesh of the fruit. The rambutans sold in KL vary from stall to stall, it all depends where they brought it in from and like you say it loses quite a bit of its taste once it's trucked to KL.

I loved the bananas, too. I wasn't able to find my previous favorite - pisang kelat keling - but some kelat (tart) varieties were available in the Pasar Besar in both Kuala Terengganu and Marang. I also enjoyed Jambu Air (a crunchy, watery type of guava that has a tart, lemony flavor).

I don't think I've tried a pisang kelat keling... . Did you have any duku or duku langsat when you were in Terengganu?

One odd thing about modern Malaysia is that you can get most things you want at Mydin's in Kuala Terengganu, but Ziploc bags seem to be unavailable, at least in those parts, so anyone who thinks they may need some is well advised to bring them from home.

We can get Ziploc bags in KL (or at least in certain supermarkets) but they're all by Glad and are imported. The locally made bags are without the ziploc feature - it's usually just tied with a rubber band or a string of knotted raffia to seal it.

[SG-]

Shiewie, I'm not sure what the name of the fish was. I was served what seemed to be part of the belly and the attached tail, so I think the fish was a fair degree larger than what I got (which was plenty). It had white flesh with a bit of fat (not that much) and its skin was black checkered with brown or gray. The best thing about it was how perfectly fresh it was. It was presented to me with a flame under it still lightly cooking it. It was already cooked and tender with just a bit of pleasant chewiness, yet it didn't get overcooked before I finished eating.m home.

based on the price it could be this fish the marble goby? flesh is soooo silky and smooth almost like tofu...

http://filaman.uni-kiel.de/Photos/Pictures...76&what=species

[Shiewie]

Marble Goby is known as Soon Hock in Malaysia. The price per kg (approx. 2.2 lbs) varies between RM80 to RM200 depending on the type of place. I guess it would fit since a one person serving is RM55.

[ecr]

Darn it -- originally planned 3 days in KL, then changed it to 4, and now thanks to these recent posts it is apparent that I need at least 7!

Shiewie, thanks for the heads up on E Malaysian at the Coronade, but might you give me an idea of what E Malaysian cuisine encompasses --- ie. what Sabah dish/dishes should I be looking to eat if we hit this food festival (I'm thinking we will)?

Chef Choy --- how pricey? Relative to Malaysia or ....?

[Pan]

based on the price it could be this fish the marble goby? flesh is soooo silky and smooth almost like tofu...

http://filaman.uni-kiel.de/Photos/Pictures...76&what=species

That looks right. I didn't think it was like tofu, but it was a great fish.

[Shiewie]

Shiewie, thanks for the heads up on E Malaysian at the Coronade, but might you give me an idea of what E Malaysian cuisine encompasses --- ie. what Sabah dish/dishes should I be looking to eat if we hit this food festival (I'm thinking we will)?

From the article, the Sabahan food at the food festival covers the specialties of the various indigenous communities in Sabah. They sound sort of like a variation of the Malay food we get in the Peninsular. The chef who is cooking at the festival is from the Nexus Karambunai Resort, a beach resort near Kota Kinabalu. I haven't got the article with me at the moment and it isn't on The Star's website as it's part of the Klang Valley regional pullout. Sorry I can't give you a better idea as I haven't been to East Malaysia myself.

Chef Choy --- how pricey? Relative to Malaysia or ....?

Chef Choy - pricey relative to Malaysia and and in my estimate, RM250 (USD66) per person should cover it (without wine) ...but with Chinese food, the price can vary quite a bit depending on whether exotic stuff is ordered. Can't confirm it with my foodie friend at the moment as she's off in Sydney on a 4-day eating trip.

[Wena]

hi shiewie, wassup?

mudbug pointed me to this particular thread in eGullet.com. i still kinda get lost in this massive eGullet forem. head is spinning still.

so, i'm just going to jump rite in like 'out of the pan into the fire'. didn't read all the threads as started to get dizzy after the 1st page. gosh! u're a really into food! hehehe... am now wondering if you're expecting... hee hee

Anyway, speaking of the Sabah Food Fest, here is a link in the Sarawak daily today. Say that it mentioned the Sabah Food Fest Promotion so thought better put it here.

one of the projects in the works for mum-mum is a flash interactive map of food spots in malaysia. yeah, ambitious huh? well, we'll see what happens a few months down the road. if and when i can figure out how to use flash. will definitely need to contact you for reference on eating spots in west malaysia.

anyway, will see how it goes.