Changes at Zocalo

sara · June 7, 2003

I stopped by Zocalo (37th and Lancaster) last night hoping for what is one of my alltime favorite meals--an especial margarita, the homemade guacamole & tortillas, and camarones de infierno.

I asked the waiter if Jackie Pestka, the chef, was in the kitchen, and was told "She's no longer with us." I was surprised--I hadn' t read anything about it in Table Talk, and I know Jackie's been there quite awhile (last time I visited she took me into her kitchen & taught me how to make the camarones). I asked who had replaced her, and he said "no one-- we're chefless--we just have the regular staff." Well, this should've been a warning...

The guacamole was fine, but lacked a little of the usual punch. But the camarones, which have been renamed something like "camarones al diablo," are a sad imitation of Jackie's fine dish. Instead of head-on shrimp (a prereq for Jackie's dish since the head and shell provide so much of the fat & flavor), there was lots of little shrimp, minus shells (I asked the waiter about this--he said head-on shrimp were hard to find--whatever, I see them in Chinatown plenty, and I know they can be ordered at Fresh Grocer. More importantly, the price of the dish stayed the same even with the cheaper shrimp substituted). Jackie's dish uses plenty of butter (12 oz for 1.5 lbs of shrimp) without coming off greasy, but these shrimp were practically swimming in a very buttery sauce that was spicy but not complex. Finally, the dish, and its spinach and rice accompaniments, were totally overly salted. Just AWFUL.

The camarones were a Zocalo signature dish, and I am so sad that Jackie and those great shrimp are gone. Thank goodness I have the recipe, but still... :sad:

The waiter wouldn't say or didn't know where Jackie went. Does anyone have any info on where she's cooking now??

KatieLoeb · June 8, 2003

Sara:

Try e-mailing Michael Klein at the Inquirer. If he doesn't already know, he'll certainly want to find out.

I'm sorry to hear all this. The food there really was very good, and although I didn't get there often, I always knew there'd be a great Mexican meal awaiting me.

I guess we're going to have to drive all the way to Norristown and Tacqueria Michoaxana now for a good Mexican meal!

Holly Moore · June 8, 2003

Don't think I've been to Zocalo since a woman named Lou was chef. But unless you like the scenery on the way to Norristown, head to Tequila for upscale and La Lupe or Las Cazuelas for more basic?

KatieLoeb · June 8, 2003

Don't think I've been to Zocalo since a woman named Lou was chef. But unless you like the scenery on the way to Norristown, head to Tequila for upscale and La Lupe or Las Cazuelas for more basic?

Holly:

I had lunch at La Lupe today - inspired by this earlier response.

I like Tequilas's but the place in Norristown is less expensive. If you haven't been there you should definitely try it. Quite tasty, large diverse menu and the best posole soup I've ever tried. Let me know if you are ever feeling inclined. I'd always be game and I just discoved that I have a coupon in my Entertainment book burning a hole in my pocket, so we could get out of there really cheap... :smile:

mrbigjas · June 8, 2003

Holly:
I had lunch at La Lupe today - inspired by this earlier response.

How was it? I was down there today, but I was feeling kinda hung over from two days of partying for my birthday, so I had to have a cheesesteak instead. Thinking of Holly, who consistently defends whiz as the perfect cheese for a cheesesteak, I decided to go against my usual tendencies and get a whiz with.

I think these occasional tests of your established habits is a good thing, but next time I'll be going back to american.

sara · June 9, 2003

Regarding the Taqueria in Norristown, I have to be honest and say I was very disappointed by the meal I had there at the DDC dinner. I found the posole soup had far too much oil (you could see it on the surface) and the vast majority of the dishes were rather boring. Out of the entire meal I was only really taken with the salsas. I know it was hard for the kitchen to cook for such a large group, so I won't dismiss the place entirely, and I did appreciate the experience and the planning involved, but honestly, I doubt I'll go back.

Closer to home, I very much like Mexico Lindo in Camden, and Las Cazuelas on Girard. I am not a fan of Tequilas--I find it overpriced for what you get, or of Mexican Post in Old City, and of the Wash Blvd taquerias, I've only been to Veracruzana thus far and liked it.

But Zocalo offered a few outstanding things-- the homemade tortillas & guac remain, as do the margaritas. There were quite often some beef dishes in really intense, complex sauces-- Jackie told me once that she tried to cook in the style of Rick Bayless, Frontera chef, and while it wasn't quite the same, she often came close. It would be a real thrill if a chef opened a place in Philly at all similar to the cooking of Bayless or the chef at Cafe Azul in Portland OR (I think her name is Claire Archibald but I could be wrong--she's formerly of Chez Panisse).

I will contact Mike Klein as suggested...

sara · June 9, 2003

Well that was quick--I emailed Mike Klein and he responded to my query about whether he knew about the change at Zocalo with " Yes, keep an eye on Table Talk." I guess I'll have to wait to hear where Jackie went...

KatieLoeb · June 9, 2003

Regarding the Taqueria in Norristown, I have to be honest and say I was very disappointed by the meal I had there at the DDC dinner. I found the posole soup had far too much oil (you could see it on the surface) and the vast majority of the dishes were rather boring. Out of the entire meal I was only really taken with the salsas. I know it was hard for the kitchen to cook for such a large group, so I won't dismiss the place entirely, and I did appreciate the experience and the planning involved, but honestly, I doubt I'll go back.
Closer to home, I very much like Mexico Lindo in Camden, and Las Cazuelas on Girard. I am not a fan of Tequilas--I find it overpriced for what you get, or of Mexican Post in Old City, and of the Wash Blvd taquerias, I've only been to Veracruzana thus far and liked it.
But Zocalo offered a few outstanding things-- the homemade tortillas & guac remain, as do the margaritas. There were quite often some beef dishes in really intense, complex sauces-- Jackie told me once that she tried to cook in the style of Rick Bayless, Frontera chef, and while it wasn't quite the same, she often came close. It would be a real thrill if a chef opened a place in Philly at all similar to the cooking of Bayless or the chef at Cafe Azul in Portland OR (I think her name is Claire Archibald but I could be wrong--she's formerly of Chez Panisse).
I will contact Mike Klein as suggested...

Sara:

Sorry you were dissappointed at the DDC Mexican. It's funny, you thought the posole was oily, and others found it too spicy, and others, too BLAND. I thought it was just right, but I guess that's why Goldilocks tried everything first, huh :unsure: ? I wonder if in their lack of preparedness for such a large group if there were different "batches" of food being served that evening, as there was such a bizarrely different take on things, and much more so than could simply be explained away by personal tastes. My only complaint would have been the leisurely service, but I think it's clear they probably weren't accustomed to having that many people at once with such a large and varied set menu. I hope to go back and give it a "real" test drive, and simply order off the menu and see if I like it as much that way.

I haven't tried Las Cazuelas yet, although your good report is not the first I've heard. How is Mexico Lindo? Is it more "street grub" a la La Lupe/Tacqueria Veracruzana, or more sit-down, if not fine dining like Las Cazuelas or Zocalo? Can one go there other than in broad daylight (a VERY large male friend was carjacked in Camden, so I'm leery at best) or is it best to do this on a weekend afternoon? I've heard great things about the place and am very much looking forward to trying it.

Hey Holly! Is it time for a Mexican update on Holly Eats? I volunteer to check out Mexico Lindo! :biggrin:

Andrew Fenton · June 9, 2003

Sara, if you're up for a road trip, you might try Tacqueria Moroleone in Kennett Square. Out of all the Mexican places listed in this topic, I'd say it's closest to Michoacana (though I like it better.) Here's what I had to say (on CH) about it:

YOW! A couple of kinds of very fresh salsa (pico de gallo and something thinner and
vinegary), always a promising sign. The enchiladas were very good: nice sauce, good tortillas. But the really
mindblowing dish was the molcajete: a lava bowl filled with steak, tomatoes, onions, a big charred pepper,
that white crumbly Mexican cheese, a whole grilled sausage and a truly amazing mole sauce. Rice, beans,
tortillas and guacamole on the side were serviceable, but outshone by the lava volcano of chow erupting next
door. It was $11, I think: it'd be hard to spend more than that on a single dish, and it'd also be hard for
anyone short of a famished Eagles lineman to finish it off alone. But the sauce tasted even better for lunch
on Sunday...

Unfortunately, we got there at 3:30, so the place was pretty empty: everything else that came out of the
kitchen looked fantastic. After we'd ordered, the waitresses, who were having lunch during the slow period,
got their food; I noticed that a couple of them had whole fried fish with a bowl of limes. Looked amazing, and
I figure that they know what's good there... Next time, next time...

Don't know if it'd be your bag exactly, but if you're planning a trip out in that direction, you might give it a try...

Andrew Fenton · June 9, 2003

Thinking of Holly, who consistently defends whiz as the perfect cheese for a cheesesteak, I decided to go against my usual tendencies and get a whiz with.
I think these occasional tests of your established habits is a good thing, but next time I'll be going back to american.

Bite yer tongue, Jas! I say: whiz is fine, 'cause it gets meltiest. And provolone is good, especially Tony Luke's aged provolone. But American cheese? Worst of both worlds...

mrbigjas · June 9, 2003

I haven't tried Las Cazuelas yet, although your good report is not the first I've heard.

Las Cazuelas has some great mole, that's for sure.

How is Mexico Lindo? Is it more "street grub" a la La Lupe/Tacqueria Veracruzana, or more sit-down, if not fine dining like Las Cazuelas or Zocalo? Can one go there other than in broad daylight (a VERY large male friend was carjacked in Camden, so I'm leery at best) or is it best to do this on a weekend afternoon? I've heard great things about the place and am very much looking forward to trying it.

Mexico Lindo is more street grub--tacos, tortas, etc., although they have some more complicated dishes as well. My personal favorite barbacoa tacos, although veracruzana is a close second. You see a bunch of Mexicans in there eating big piles of tongue, eggs, tortillas, chorizo. Not many white people--I woulda had language barrier problems a couplea times in there, except that we were with someone from mexico...

Damn it's good though. It's one of those places where I wish they hadn't reviewed it, so I could keep enjoying it myself.

Re: the neighborhood..... it's hard to say. It's rough around there, but I've been there many times and never had a problem. They have a parking lot and it doesn't strike me as a scary part of town....

mrbigjas · June 9, 2003

Bite yer tongue, Jas! I say: whiz is fine, 'cause it gets meltiest. And provolone is good, especially Tony Luke's aged provolone. But American cheese? Worst of both worlds...

Yeah, I definitely see where you're coming from, and even agree with both of you. But I have this weakness for American in certain applications. I think in the case of a cheesesteak, it might actually be a texture thing--maybe I just like my cheesesteaks a little less gloppy than most, or something.

Another discovery yesterday is that Geno's has a pretty decent roast pork sandwich. I'd always ignored that part of the sign, but the mrs wasn't in the mood for cheesesteaks yesterday. It's not as good as Dinic's, but it's not bad either.

sara · June 9, 2003

Andrew--I have heard great things about the Taqueria in Kennet Sq from one of my professors--she and her husband make the drive out there frequently. I have to go sometime.

Katie--Maybe you're right about the situation at the DDC dinner. I don't know how else to explain the great variation--my soup was neither spicy nor warm.

I felt pretty safe in the Mexico Lindo neighborhood, but I live in West Philly and maybe am a bit jaded or whatever b/c of it. My only concern was my car, which sat alone in an abandoned lot-- but we could watch it from the window, so I wasn't really worried. We were done with dinner by 7:30 or so, so I wasn't there late to see any after-dark action...but I'd say you should feel as safe there as you would around 5th and Girard at night.

As for the food--I agree that Lindo's food is more street grub, but their mole was topnotch--definitely up there w/ Las Cazuelas. Very casual atmosphere, laid back service, etc--but it feels more sit-down than takeout (compared to Veracruzana where I always takeout).

Has anyone else been to Frontera or Topolobampo in Chicago and understand why I'm lusting for a restaurant like THAT around here??

Edited June 9, 2003 by sara (log)

pnapoli · June 10, 2003

But Zocalo offered a few outstanding things

I always liked the pumpkin dip, myself. :wub:

sara: try your hand at making the shrimp yourself! check it out: zocalo "shrimp from hell"

sara · June 10, 2003

Thanks. I found that recipe the other day and look forward to trying it out. Anyone know the best place to buy head-on shrimp? My contact at Fresh Grocer isn't there anymore...and I've never seen them in Reading Terminal. Best place in Chinatown maybe?

mrbigjas · June 10, 2003

Has anyone else been to Frontera or Topolobampo in Chicago and understand why I'm lusting for a restaurant like THAT around here??

I've tried the last two times I went to chicago, but it didn't work out... went to pilsen instead and had great menudo....

Rich Pawlak · June 10, 2003

Andrew--I have heard great things about the Taqueria in Kennet Sq from one of my professors--she and her husband make the drive out there frequently. I have to go sometime.
Katie--Maybe you're right about the situation at the DDC dinner. I don't know how else to explain the great variation--my soup was neither spicy nor warm.
I felt pretty safe in the Mexico Lindo neighborhood, but I live in West Philly and maybe am a bit jaded or whatever b/c of it. My only concern was my car, which sat alone in an abandoned lot-- but we could watch it from the window, so I wasn't really worried. We were done with dinner by 7:30 or so, so I wasn't there late to see any after-dark action...but I'd say you should feel as safe there as you would around 5th and Girard at night.
As for the food--I agree that Lindo's food is more street grub, but their mole was topnotch--definitely up there w/ Las Cazuelas. Very casual atmosphere, laid back service, etc--but it feels more sit-down than takeout (compared to Veracruzana where I always takeout).
Has anyone else been to Frontera or Topolobampo in Chicago and understand why I'm lusting for a restaurant like THAT around here??

I have to say that the DDC dinner in Norristown at Michoaca was well-organized, but I do think that the size of our group overwhelmed the restaurant. It showed most in the entree plate. However, the seafood in cocktail sauce, the seviche, the nachos and the posole were all quite good, as were some of the tamales. But the size of our group simply was too much. I have been back to the place, and the food was terrific!

But we were dangerous, and as a group, we took our chances.

sara · June 11, 2003

I was pretty surprised to see the positive review of Rio Bravo in today's Weekly: http://www.phillyweekly.com/ae/feed/

I stopped by there a few weeks ago and took out the spicy shrimp dish Rinaldi mentions in here review...for like $13-14, I got a couple small shrimp overly coated in spices, rather dry, not that hot...Once again, I guess I was comparing it to Zocalo's dish and was disappointed.

Anyways, at 7:30 pm on a Tuesday the place was entirely empty. I was the only person in this huge cavernous place except for the staff, and I was doing takeout! I got the impression perhaps they had just opened--but this was less than a month ago--is Rinaldi not giving them even a month to get things going before she does a review?

Has anyone else been there? How does it compare to the other places we've been discussing in this thread?

Holly Moore · June 11, 2003

I stopped by about a week ago.

Had the avocado filled with seafood, the fish soup and a Vampira (blended beet, carrot and pineapple juice as I recall). Free nacho's came with topped with refried beans and salsa. It was all ok - the fish soup had a good broth with chunks of striped bass.

The owner showed me his new menu. Much nicer selection, more polished with better descriptions. Many variations of red snapper - some soundling like they came from Tequila's menu. Supposed to start next week, but I'd call to check. The old menu is pretty drab.

Nice folks run the place. I suspect a family. Not much English though.

sara · June 12, 2003

According to Mike Klein's Table Talk this morning...Jackie left b/c of a horrible commute, and is now consulting from her farm in Montgomery County. Her chef de cuisine is now in charge.

Bummer!

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