"The Apprentice" - Pepin's memoires

[FoodMan]

In case you did not know "The Apprentice", Jacque Peppin's memoires is out on the shelves and at Amazon. Amazon has it for %30 off and my copy is in the mail.

FM

[Jinmyo]

I'm just reading it now. I'll post a few comments when I finish it.

[bourdain]

I tend to get evangelical when I run into a book I enjoyed this much. Up till now, if you wanted to read about what it was like coming up through the old system of marmitons and stagieres--the early-to-mid century style European hotel kitchen, you had only Orwell's few wonderful chapters--and the hard-to-find Freeling. But this is Pepin talking here: selecting lowest quality veggies at the market with his frugal Mom to merchandise for the family bistro, enduring the hazing and pranks of his first months doing dogsbody work (literally) at a hotel..moving up the ranks, bouncing around Paris--the Plaza Athenee...private chef to De Gaulle...then some great dishy stuff about NYC's Le Pavillon, --and its loathsome Henri Soule (a colossal, legendary shit-bag). Pepin cuts a Zelig like figure in culinary history. A really unique and thorough account of a world very different but still very much the same...and absolute caviar for working cooks, chefs and especially commis. If you need somehing to make you feel better after a double shift on the salad sation--this is the answer. Well written..And if you like that "behind the scenes" stuff? You'll love this.

[maggiethecat]

"well wriiten." Yes. I don't know why I was so surprised at how well written it is. Pepin is astounding...he can do everything. I am enjoying this book immensely. And I never knew about that car accident that almost killed him. No fourteen hours on his feet after that!

The Real Thing, Baby!

[hjshorter]

He was interviewed on NPR's Diane Rehm Show the other day, talking about the book. In addition to being talented, he is one of the most gracious guests I have ever had the pleasure of listening to. I can't wait to read the book.

[Bux]

I don't know why I was so surprised at how well written it is.

My understanding is that he earned an M.A. degree in 18th-century French literature from Columbia University in 1972. He's also got some 21 cookbooks under his belt -- some of what's in those books is under my belt as well -- and his the ease with which he communicates on TV should make us expect a well written book from him.

Washington Post review -- no less flattering than Tony's post. From Judith Weinraub, writing in the Washington Post Lest any reader think this is another saga of sex and drugs in the kitchen, it definitely is not. Instead, it's the story of just what it takes to turn a talented young Frenchman into one of the most admired figures in the culinary world. And anyone who thinks that all you need to do to be called "chef" is to survive a few months -- or even a few years -- in culinary school would do well to read it.

I have to admit that reading Tony's evangelical post may be more effective than any newspaper review in getting me to read the book. I suspect you have fans here that might have skipped the life story of a now famous French chef thinking it would not only not be another saga of sex and drugs, but uninteresting and irrelevant. Thanks for sharing your view on this.

[Jinmyo]

I had been planning to write a review of this book but Tony has cut me off at the knees in only a few words. So while I wave my whisk and shout "It's only a flesh wound!" for the cameras in the meantime I'll also say:

Jacques Pepin is first and foremost an educator. He has relenlessly taught thousands of people La Methode and La Technique through books, television appeartances, classes, and a pervading aura which inspires.

I have often referred to him as St. Jacques here on these discussion boards. Instead of bowing our heads, St. Jacques inspires us to look up, look around, and start cooking. This is his blessing.

[Lesley C]

I reviewed this book for the Montreal Gazette and met Pepin here the day after it was published. The publisher introduced us and Pepin gave me a big kiss. He was wearing a summer suit with a bow tie. He was as charming as expected, but maybe a bit shorter.

He gave me some great quotes in the interview. I'd post the link but it seems to have expired.

[pjs]

...then some great dishy stuff about NYC's  Le Pavillon, --and its loathsome Henri Soule (a colossal, legendary shit-bag).

Pierre Franey never again worked in a restaurant after the Le Pavillon mutiny. Hard to tell if this was of his own choosing. I think it was.

The Pepin book sounds like a must read.

PJ

Edited May 1, 2003 by pjs (log)

[ivan]

...and absolute caviar for working cooks, chefs and especially commis.

Dang! For a brief, glorious moment there, I thought bourdain wrote "commies".

But I want to read it anyway.

[johnjohn]

I finished this book last night. Pepin has an easy going writing style that allows his voice to come through - a really nice read. He certainly has lived an interesting life, and met some fascinating people. I went to The French Culinary Institute where he is one of the deans, while he wasn't there as often as the other deans - he was the most active in providing instruction. He would walk around and spend a good deal of time with the students. He would ask what you were doing, show you a number of different techniques, and was very encouraging.

johnjohn

[Bux]

I finished the book last week. It seems as if it should have appeal to so many different kinds of people who have an interest in food. What a contradictory man -- hero and antihero in one. His older brother distinguishes himself as a student while Jacques drops out of school to apprentice in a restaurant at thirteen by choice. He arrives in American as a chef and gets a graduate degree at Columbia in his spare time after having developed a taste for art and literature from his fellow hotel kitchen workers in Paris.

It's always about food for him. As a child in war torn France, he saves his money to buy a black market sausage for his brother as a birthday present.

[malachi]

I concur. A brilliant read and a "must-have" for your bookshelf if you're a member here. In particular, I loved the insight not only into Craig Clairborne's personality but also the way Pepin uses this to illustrate the differences between US and French cultures and attitudes towards food and entertaining.

Also - a quick plug for the upcoming Robb Walsh book Are Your Really Going to Eat That? I'm sure some will slander it for its obvious trend-following nature (it's a well-timed hybrid of The Cook's Tour and The Man Who Ate Everything). Despite this, it's a really enjoyable read and well worth getting once released.

[Bux]

My interest and fondness for French cuisine makes me a bit reluctant to push this book too greatly as I doubt too many members share that interest to the same degree, but the story of his war time survival, his growing up in France in the forties, his apprenticeship and later working in the Meurice and for DeGaulle are probably appealing to a vast audience with little or no interest in in France or cooking and absolutely fascinating to those with an interest in either.

His career in America is no less interesting. By his own admission he probably made some questionable decisions out of naivety but he took every responsibility seriously and made the most of it. He probably never made the money made by others of less culinary talent, but he was a great success in personal terms and somewhat of a star without chasing stardom. No matter how high an opinion of him you may have had prior to reading the book, I think your admiration has to grow from what you read.

[Really Nice!]

...selecting  lowest quality veggies at the market with his frugal Mom to merchandise for the family bistro...

I went to see him on the last day of his book-signing tour which he spent here in Seattle.

He talked for about 30-40 minutes about some of the highlights in the book.

He mentioned how frugal he and his family had to be when he first started out. He carried that thought to when he moved to America, and married an American, and how she would throw everything out, or she would go grocery shopping and buy new ingredients before using up what was already at home. He said after 38 years of marriage he was proud that he taught her how to be more economical... "either that, or she throws everything away before I get home."

He also discussed the PBS series he's done over the years, and how much he's enjoyed them. He said at first it was difficult because of all the work he did in preparing for them (months of writing, developing and testing recipes) and then suddenly the funding would fall through. One November in the early 80s he was given an opportunity to film an 13-part series the following July. He forgot all about it until his wife reminded him in April. He decided to forget about it rather than spending the time to work on the recipes when he got a call in May saysing they got the funding. So he had to rush on his recipe development. Ever since that series aired, they always had the funding.

He liked doing the shows. Each was 27.5 minutes long. As the end of the program neared, someone behind camera would hold up a card... 5 minutes, 2 minutes, 90 seconds, 30 seconds... and when he worked alone, he always finished on time. He said he was very proud of that. When he worked the series with his daughter, he said she'd be working on something and the person would flash the 2 minute card, so he'd push her out of the way to get the program done on time.

When he and Julia did their cooking specials on stage together, they decided that the show needed to be edited around the cooking; not cook around the editing. Their one-hour specials actually took 5 hours. They didn't use that "through-the-magic-of-television" oven.

One last thing, he's going to be making another 13-part series with his daughter this summer in San Francisco.

[pete ganz]

I was particularly impressed by how much pride he took in the job at Howard Johnson's. He really seemed excited about bringing high quality, low cost food to the masses. He also sounds like a genuinely nice guy. Great book.

[pjs]

Howard Johnson Sr cajoled Pierre Franey to take a vice-president's position at Hojo's shortly after Franey told Soulé to go fuck himself. According to Franey's excellent autobiography--"A Chef's Tale"--the recipes for the entire menu were ripped apart except for the ice cream and the clam chowder. (BTW I have the original clam chowder recipe )

I can't wait to read the Pepin book to fill in all the juicy bits. Where's that damn Amazon link?

PJ

[Rachel Perlow]

Since no one else posted it, here's a link to buy the book: The Apprentice

[FoodMan]

What a fantastic read indeed. You could just hear him talking with that smooth writing style and feel his love for life and food. I can only dream about sharing such occasions as the clam bake he mentions. As mentioned earlier he does sound like a genuinely nice guy whose whole life does revolve around food.

...another great story from the book is the story of "Billy the wild Sheep", I had to read it several times. It was funny and it just felt like I am there sharing that perfectly roast lamb with him.

If you don't have it yet, buy it.

FM

[Bux]

...another great story from the book is the story of "Billy the wild Sheep", I had to read it several times. It was funny and it just felt like I am there sharing that perfectly roast lamb with him.

Almost. The best thing about the book was sharing his experiences. The worst thing was not actually being there sharing the meals with him. It's all about a love of food and cooking, but for all his pride -- and you sense all along the way that he's proud of his cooking abilities -- it's never about cooking to get good reviews or Michelin stars.

[Lady T]

I bought it last month, and am still rereading the good bits. Marvelous stuff!

[beans]

This is exactly the ticket for an outstanding Father's Day prezzie for my pop. He never cooked and only ventured into the kitchen to raid the cookies, grab a beverage or inspect what my mother was cooking. Then one day he suddenly started to cook, watch PBS cooking shows and buy cook books. He was inspired by Jacques Pepin. It is now on the must do list tomorrow -- two copies! One for me and one for him! I can't wait!

[Lesley C]

Another great thing about the Pepin book is the recipes. I've tried many of them and they're wonderful. He was smart not to overcrowd the book with recipes. I'd finish each chapter and try to guess which recipes would be on the next page, the one that would best represent the chapter.

[johnjohn]

According to Franey's excellent autobiography--"A Chef's Tale"

Can anyone recommend other chef biographies that are worth checking out.

johnjohn

[pjs]

According to Franey's excellent autobiography--"A Chef's Tale"

Can anyone recommend other chef biographies that are worth checking out.

johnjohn

johnjohn, if you can find a copy of Franey's autobio buy it. It's out of print but used copies are available cheap.

He was one of the first American GI's during WWII to liberate the town in France where he grew up. He walked in out of nowhere on his family in his Army uniform. Hollywood can't make this shit up.

Also, Gen. MacArthur requested his services in the Pacific during the war. He had no idea who MacArthur was and he wasn't a citizen at the time so he could refuse to be transferred overseas and did so. And he duly caught shit for it.

And just for the record his first chef smacked him upside the head with a spatula for making a bad omelette.

PJ