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Now, however, I'm not so enamoured anymore. The food shops are great for ingredients but I find the cooked stuff incredibly greasy and disappointing. Who wants dal swimming in fat? Ganesha corner is fun and good value but you have to go and lie down in a quiet place after eating there.  I know this is all simple street food and it's not pretending to be anything fancier, but it would be a whole lot tastier without all the (sometimes rancid) oil. Also every restaurant offers exactly the same dishes. From the large numbers of Sri Lankans who eat in the restaurants here you'd assume this is the one place where the community is cooking for itself, rather than bobo 'tourists' who've velib'ed over from the Canal St Martin. But then, I haven't had much previous contact with Sri Lankan food so perhaps they're partial to grease?...( hard to believe.)

I don't know about Sri Lanka, but in Pakistan it is very common to find vegetables and lentils swimming in grease. And cooked to a tasteless brown mush. Maybe that's the problem with the restaurants you tried - too authentic?! My favourite places have always been those which strike a balance between totally authentic and totally Westernised. That's why I like the Indian food in London - it's aimed at people with Western tastes, but knowledgeable about Indian food, so you can't pass off any old crap to them but at the same time they expect a slightly higher quality of food than what one would get back home!

That's a funny perspective which I hadn't considered! Maybe you're right... I have never been to India or Pakistan but I once had the good fortune to meet some of the chefs from the Taj group in London and eat their food and it was WONDERFUL, but perhaps in that Western way as you suggest? Perhaps 'authentic' isn't always what we really want...

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