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21 hours ago, AlaMoi said:

"Since most 50A 120V (US) kitchen outlets are somewhat limited . . . "

immediate tip off; uber-false assumptions - be aware all info likely total BS . . .

 

Sorry, I made a typo (or egregious grammar error) in my original post.

In the US, most kitchens are either wired with a single 50A 240V outlet (12000 watt on the nameplate, 9600 watts after the necessary 20% de-rating for continuous usage) plus one or more 120V 15/20A circuits...or they are just wired with lower-wattage (often 120V 20A) outlets.  The 50A 240V outlet is usually shared by the oven and stove cooktop, and the reason it's often missing (especially in homes built decades ago) is because the assumption was that gas stoves don't need a big electrical outlet.  Contractors tend to omit circuits they don't have to install, to save money (or increase profits).

If there's a 50A 240V outlet that is not also shared with an oven, it could provide 2400 watts continuously to four induction burners (or focus a lot more power into a smaller number of burners).  But when one is trying to boil water, warm up a pan, and warm up the oven all at the same time...that 9600 watts of power can quickly look inadequate.

Putting a battery underneath a cooktop is a really interesting idea because it could make things feel more instantaneous for induction cooktops, similar to what people are used to with methane.  That said, putting a battery indoors and near heating elements is certainly an engineering challenge.  I prefer to keep my batteries far away from heat sources.  Especially if they're combustible. 

The whole bidirectional inverter talk in that video above, by the way, is also curious.  I'm not sure how much help 3 kWh of power is going to be to support the grid outside of very short outages.  A typically home battery is 4 to 5 times that large, and typically the current one can pull from a battery at any given time is relatively proportional to the capacity of the battery.  So that all seems more like marketing than a killer use case.

In any case, I would love to see Breville build a cooktop like this (even without the battery feature).  If we're lucky, they're already working on one.  I will gladly buy one, especially if one or more burners are larger and can go up to 2400 watts like the EU/ANZ Control Freaks--or in my wilder dreams 3600+ watts--for quicker boiling of water, aggressive searing, etc.  And if it's Impulse Labs that does it first, well, hopefully they plan to stick around for a very long time so I can justify buying one.

afs

afs

21 hours ago, AlaMoi said:

"Since most 50A 120V (US) kitchen outlets are somewhat limited . . . "

immediate tip off; uber-false assumptions - be aware all info likely total BS . . .

 

Sorry, I made a typo (or egregious grammar error) in my original post.

In the US, most kitchens are either wired with a single 50A 240V outlet (12000 watt on the nameplate, 9600 watts after the necessary 20% de-rating for continuous usage) plus one or more 120V 15/20A circuits...or they are just wired with lower-wattage (often 120V 20A) outlets.  The 50A 240V outlet is usually shared by the oven and stove cooktop, and the reason it's often missing (especially in homes built decades ago) is because the assumption was that gas stoves don't need a big electrical outlet.  Contractors tend to omit circuits they don't have to install, to save money (or increase profits).

If there's a 50A 240V outlet that is not also shared with an oven, it could provide 2400 watts continuously to four induction burners (or focus a lot more power into a smaller number of burners).  But when one is trying to boil water, warm up a pan, and warm up the oven all at the same time...that 9600 watts of power can quickly look inadequate.

Putting a battery underneath a cooktop is a really interesting idea because it could make things feel more instantaneous for induction cooktops, similar to what people are used to with methane.  That said, putting a battery indoors and near heating elements is certainly an engineering challenge.  I prefer to keep my batteries far away from heat sources.  Especially if they're combustible. 

The whole bidirectional inverter talk in that video above, by the way, is also curious.  I'm not sure how much help 3 kWh of power is going to be to support the grid outside of very short outages.  A typically home battery is 4 to 5 times that large, and typically the current one can pull from a battery at any given time is relatively proportional to the capacity of the battery.  So that all seems more like marketing than reality.

In any case, I would love to see Breville build a cooktop like this (even without the battery feature).  If we're lucky, they're already working on one.  I will gladly buy one, especially if one or more burners are larger and can go up to 2400 watts like the EU/ANZ Control Freaks--or in my wilder dreams 3600+ watts--for quicker boiling of water, aggressive searing, etc.  And if it's Impulse Labs that does it first, well, hopefully they plan to stick around for a very long time so I can justify buying one.

afs

afs

21 hours ago, AlaMoi said:

"Since most 50A 120V (US) kitchen outlets are somewhat limited . . . "

immediate tip off; uber-false assumptions - be aware all info likely total BS . . .

 

Sorry, I made a typo (or egregious grammar error) in my original post.

In the US, most kitchens are either wired with a single 50A 240V outlet (12000 watt on the nameplate, 9600 watts after the necessary 20% de-rating for continuous usage)...or they are just wired with lower-wattage (often 120V 20A) outlets.  The 50A 240V outlet is usually shared by the oven and stove cooktop, and the reason it's often missing (especially in homes built decades ago) is because the assumption was that gas stoves don't need a big electrical outlet.  Contractors tend to omit circuits they don't have to install, to save money (or increase profits).

If there's a 50A 240V outlet that is not also shared with an oven, it could provide 2400 watts continuously to four induction burners (or focus a lot more power into a smaller number of burners).  But when one is trying to boil water, warm up a pan, and warm up the oven all at the same time...that 9600 watts of power can quickly look inadequate.

Putting a battery underneath a cooktop is a really interesting idea because it could make things feel more instantaneous for induction cooktops, similar to what people are used to with methane.  That said, putting a battery indoors and near heating elements is certainly an engineering challenge.  I prefer to keep my batteries far away from heat sources.  Especially if they're combustible. 

The whole bidirectional inverter talk in that video above, by the way, is also curious.  I'm not sure how much help 3 kWh of power is going to be to support the grid outside of very short outages.  A typically home battery is 4 to 5 times that large, and typically the current one can pull from a battery at any given time is relatively proportional to the capacity of the battery.  So that all seems more like marketing than reality.

In any case, I would love to see Breville build a cooktop like this (even without the battery feature).  If we're lucky, they're already working on one.  I will gladly buy one, especially if one or more burners are larger and can go up to 2400 watts like the EU/ANZ Control Freaks--or in my wilder dreams 3600+ watts--for quicker boiling of water, aggressive searing, etc.  And if it's Impulse Labs that does it first, well, hopefully they plan to stick around for a very long time so I can justify buying one.

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