The Hakka Cookbook by Anusasananan

[Anna N]

Over here http://forums.egullet.org/topic/145414-dinner-2013-part-4/?p=1931617 on the dinner thread mention is made of The Hakka Cookbook. If you own it, can you do a quick review of it in terms of useability and adherence to well known Hakka dishes, please?

[huiray]

Over here http://forums.egullet.org/topic/145414-dinner-2013-part-4/?p=1931617 on the dinner thread mention is made of The Hakka Cookbook. If you own it, can you do a quick review of it in terms of useability and adherence to well known Hakka dishes, please?

Well, I haven't actually cooked much from it (if at all) and as I mentioned elsewhere I tend to leaf through cookbooks for ideas although I do cook some recipes exactly as written sometimes. I do find it a nice read. As for "adherence to well-known Hakka dishes" - that might depend on where one is, as Hakka dishes might tend to get adapted to local conditions perhaps more than other Chinese regional cuisines. Still, the backbones of some of the dishes I recall from Malaysia and Singapore appear to be there in those recipes in the book. I don't know about those from the Hakka regions of China proper, although the author describes her meals with Hakka folks from regions of China as well as in other parts of China (yes, she traveled around in China too and wrote down (so she says) what those folks did). In many cases she also describes how some dishes vary from the "traditionally-done way" in the appropriate regions of China versus what is done in the Hakka (or otherwise) diaspora outside of China.

Here's one mini-review (but concentrating on one "traditional" dish in the actual cookery part) from Andrea Nguyen - who *did* collaborate on the book; while the author (Anusasananan) joins in in the comments section:

http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/blog/2012/12/soy-glazed-black-pepper-chicken-hakka-cookbook.html

The Amazon website does allow one to peek into the book - perhaps a gander at it over there might be useful? http://www.amazon.com/The-Hakka-Cookbook-Chinese-around/dp/0520273281#reader_0520273281

[huiray]

As a further note to my post above...

One should really, really "sign in" to Amazon and read the "peek inside this book" on that link I gave. It expresses what the book is about, the "personal memoir" aspect of it , the cultural, geographical and culinary context and background of the Hakka in the "heartland" in China vs the diaspora around the world better than I ever could on these pages here. The recipes are well-written, reflect on differences between home-adapted and restaurant versions of the same dishes in many cases especially with the "Hakka Classics"; or on differences in the cuisine between the "Hakka Heartland" and in Beijing or in Malaysia; etc etc...and in re-reading some of them it does strike me clearly now how accurate (or at least evocative) they are - especially those printed on brown-colored paper, for "Hakka Classics", such as the one for braised pork belly with mustard greens ("mui choy kau yuk" (梅菜扣肉) in Cantonese, heh, my "normal" Chinese dialect) to what I remember of them when I was growing up. (I'm half-Hakka/half-Cantonese)

@patrickamory - I *think* it was you who expressed somewhere here that you liked Fuchsia Dunlop's cookbooks because she talks about the cultural and culinary aspects of Szechuanese/Hunanese food and her personal journeys rather than simply list the recipes of various dishes. If you are the person I'm thinking of, I suspect you will love this book.

BTW Anusasananan is of Hakka extraction herself - don't let her last name throw you off - it's just that she married a man of Thai heritage with that last name.

Also, note that she doesn't really get into "Hakka food" in India - where Chinese food IN GENERAL is referred to as "Hakka food" regardless of whether it is Cantonese or Szechuanese or whatever in inspiration - simply because the Hakkas were the ones who first arrived there (especially in Calcutta) and introduced "Chinese" food to the masses there, heavily doctored to suit Indian tastes, of course. (and I mean HEAVILY doctored). Indian-Chinese cuisine is a category unto itself, in fact - see here and here for leads on this. I think Manchurian Chicken, for example, might be thought to be derived from a Hakka-influenced adapted dish or concoction. In the UK, there are even restaurants specifically devoted to this style of food. My understanding is that many Indians outside of India, when they hanker for "Chinese food", actually want "Indian-Chinese" food - although nowadays of course many also seek out "authentic" (a slippery word..."traditional" might be better) Chinese food.

Edited September 15, 2013 by huiray (log)

[Anna N]

Thanks for the link to Andrea Nguyen's site. I did of course check Amazon as I always do when considering buying a book. My issue is the "look inside" feature rarely reveals enough to help make a decision and it amazes me how many people can post a review of a cook book without ever trying a single recipe. Then there are those who claim to have tried five recipes and conclude they are all great but don't name the recipes or describe the cooking process.

Your comments on Hakka and Indian food was valuable too. I have recently heard Hakka described as Indian-Chinese as though that was the definitive definition.

I am certain I will end up buying the book as I am keen to know how Hakka cuisine differs from the various regional cuisines of China. Thanks for your input.

[huiray]

You're welcome.

I think the "look inside" feature on Amazon for this book is very valuable in this case. I encourage you to look at it without the jaundiced eye you might have for other examples of this feature for other books. Just curious - what leads you to so doubt and even discount the value of these peeks on Amazon.com into books?

As for others who recommend cookbooks based on what they have tried - well, that's what they *did* try and they did like it, I would imagine, no? ;-)

p.s. Mind you, I don't think Rubens went out and raped those Sabine women when he painted his "Rape of the Sabine Women"...just sayin'... :-)

p.s.2. Martin Yan, in the front of the book (readable on Amazon's "look inside" feature) points out that Hakka cuisine is wrapped up more in the history of the Hakka people rather than in any geographical localization.

p.s.3. The book is relatively inexpensive. It's not US$199.99 or some other steep price. For many people I imagine it is a reasonable sum of money - so if one bought it and it turned out to be something that one might not clutch to one's bosom for all eternity it might not be a complete loss - for many folks here, that is, I speculate.

p.s.4. I have no fiduciary interest in the book or to the authors or collaborators in the books, who are personal strangers to me.

Edited September 15, 2013 by huiray (log)

[Anna N]

Nine times out of ten, and this book is no exception, the peek is at the introductory material rather than into the "meat" of the book. Introductions are usually the product of mutual admiration and rarely objective. Nothing in Martin Yan's introduction persuades me that he knows much about Hakka food except a vague childhood memory. And I greatly admire Yan for other reasons. This is after all The Hakka Cookbook not The Hakka History Book but he has nothing to offer in terms of his knowledge of Hakka cooking.

A peek or two at a couple of representative recipes, beyond basic chicken stock, would strike me as not expecting too much.

The whole point of a book review, I thought, was to sell the book. If you want me to buy a cook book then your review ought to include reasons why I might want to cook from it. You will have tested at least 3 of the recipes and can comment on how well and accurately the recipes are written and whether or not they result in a palatable dish.

You are stretching with the Reuben analogy. Not the same thing at all.

I don't think the price of the book has much bearing on whether or not I buy it within reason. But there are many books, especially cookbooks, which are a waste of initial investment made even more egregious by the waste of ingredients because no care was taken to make sure the recipes were tested.

I asked about this book on this forum because there are many posters whose opinion I trust. People who will point out a cook book's strengths and weaknesses. People who actually cook from the book and can talk about what works and what doesn't. The reviewers on Amazon, for the most part, are completely lacking in context and only want to see their own words.

These are my thoughts. YMMV. Best, Anna

[patrickamory]

huiray - thanks, yes, that was me - I'll check this one out!

[Ashen]

Google books search often will show more & or different pages than the amazon preview.

[huiray]

Anna, fair enough. To each his or her own.

I would say that I *would* personally expect the introduction(s) and author preambles/comments/etc of any book to be complimentary to the book. :-) I would fall over in shock if I ever saw a book with a scathing introduction printed right in the front of the book itself. I hope, however, that I might get a sense of what the book is about, cookbook or not, from the stuff at the front of the book; whether the book is successful or not I would have to find out for myself and for my own tastes. Of course, reading the reviews of people who share the same tastes as I do helps.

As for if a dish is palatable or not - I think that is a individual thing, and something I find very palatable others might find disgusting, no? I like spaghetti tomato-meat sauce made with stick cinnamon and whole cloves and lots of vinegar as the flavoring/spicing agents, whereas many folks would gag at the very notion of a savory meat sauce for pasta with cinnamon (of all things!!) in it, let alone cloves as well! (as evidenced by an old thread on another food forum)

A peek or two at a couple of representative recipes, beyond basic chicken stock, would strike me as not expecting too much.

Regarding the preview on amazon for this book - hmm, I gather you didn't see any recipes beyond that for basic chicken stock...did you sign in? When I do so, I see 16 actual recipes (on white paper) and 2 "Hakka Classic" recipes (on brown paper) one of which has 2 variations shown. Yes, plus that chicken stock recipe as well as other "basic" recipes.

Edited September 16, 2013 by huiray (log)

[Anna N]

huiray,

We have had a lively discussion and I thank you for that. I will admit to not signing into Amazon and that I might see more of the book if I did is a revelation. On most other points though I think you and I should agree to disagree so we can maintain a relationship that will allow us to spar again on other subjects. Your food, as evidenced by your photographs, appeals to me as much as anyone's on eGullet and I appreciate all the information about it that you so willingly share. And I am now an owner of The Hakka Cookbook having succumbed to temptation last evening and purchased the Kindle edition. Cheers, Anna

[jsager01]

Nothing in Martin Yan's introduction persuades me that he knows much about Hakka food except a vague childhood memory. And I greatly admire Yan for other reasons. This is after all The Hakka Cookbook not The Hakka History Book but he has nothing to offer in terms of his knowledge of Hakka cooking.

You are a lot more generous (or diplomatic?) than how i would grade Yan, if i ever do grade him at all; he is at best a showman and self-publicist. However, i do give him credit for creating interest in Cantonese cuisine in N America and UK.

p.s.2. Martin Yan, in the front of the book (readable on Amazon's "look inside" feature) points out that Hakka cuisine is wrapped up more in the history of the Hakka people rather than in any geographical localization.

That is what Yan says in his Forward to the book, but Lau says later, in her Introduction, under the heading of Travelling Cuisine:

"When the Hakka moved from one place to another, their cooking adapted to ingredients that were available in their new environments".

Now, are they talking about the same subject matter, in the same book; and if so, then who is right or makes more sense?

How does one get wrapped up and eat history? do the Hakka in the several provinces of China that they have migrated to import their ingredients from Shanxi, etc;. Are there any significant cuisines anywhere in the world that are ' wrapped up' with history and not what is locally available ..... and especially for the Hakka who are sometimes referred to as the gypsies of China?

In any case, how can anyone that has had Hakka cuisine in Meizhou,/Dabu, and in Taiwan and in Hakka enclaves in Sichuan, etc, not notice the localisation of the cuisine? Even the Hakka language, or dialect if you like, in any of the provinces that the Hakka had ‘ refugee-ed, or illegally immigrated to’are significantly different.

i have not bought/read the book, but i think the book would have been much, much better without that Forward by Yan, or the Introduction to Hakka history which is essentially a cut and paste (from the internet?) of stereotypical and inaccurate (IMO) accounts of Hakka history.

I have read and followed Lau’s travels and travails in her search for her roots, the extensive Hakka food that she ate or had to eat. I think she first blogged on this website http://tinyurl.com/hakka01 a couple of years ago.

I followed Lau’s blogs because it was how i felt and experienced. I was /am not into blogging or writing, or have any talent for such, but it was refreshing for someone else to express what i felt and experienced.

However, that website/blog seems to have been fragmented in the sense that it is difficult to keep track of her travels and the food she ate and the recipes collected in China.

In any case, if you are interested in Hakka cuisine i would still recommend this book, assuming you accept recommendations from someone that has not read the book, and if you can just skip the Forward and the Introduction, which was probably imposed by the publishers?