“Eating Las Vegas 2011”, an essential guidebook

[David Ross]

In November, I was invited by my good friend John Curtas to a book signing party for “Eating Las Vegas 2011, The 50 Essential Restaurants." John co-wrote the book with Max Jacobson and Al Mancini—the self-proclaimed triumvirate of Las Vegas Restaurant critics. (Determing which one is “the” voice of Las Vegas restaurants is a matter of taste so to speak).

The book launch and signing party was held at L’Atelier at the MGM. As those who have dined at L’Atelier know, it is not a generous space for a large, Las Vegas style launch party with an appearance from Kim Kardashian. The mood and décor of L’Atelier is more fitting of a restaurant known for attracting serious customers who are intent on sampling the French cuisine of Robuchon in an atmosphere more “casual” than the formal Robuchon temple next door.

Yet the personality and reputation of L’Atelier is in fact quite an appropriate venue for a small gathering of some of the top Chefs of Las Vegas, (and the world), to be feted at the much-anticipated announcement of which restaurants were included in the book, (and who was included in the “Top Ten” list).

Chef Joel Robuchon hosted the event and was in the tiny kitchen that night, working alongside his crew preparing plates of signature L’Atelier bites including Sea Scallop Crudo, Langoustine Fritter with Parsley Sauce, Sliders with Foie Gras and Hangar Steak accompanied by Robuchon’s iconic Pommes Puree.

The inimitable Robin Leach acted as the Emcee, proclaiming Las Vegas as standing alongside Paris and New York as one of the world’s top dining destinations. (Much to the consternation of the guests from Los Angeles that were in the house that night).

Herewith is the list of the Top 10 Restaurants. (In alphabetical order, which doesn’t mean the restaurant at the bottom of the list is any less worthy than number one)-

-Alex (Wynn)

-Bartolotta Ristorante Di Mare (Wynn)

-Bar Masa (Aria at CityCenter)

-Cut (Palazzo)

-Guy Savoy (Caesar’s Palace)

-Joel Robuchon (MGM Grand)

-L’Atelier (MGM Grand)

-Picasso (Bellagio)

-RM Seafood (Mandalay Place)

-Twist (Mandarin Oriental)

Although the above restaurants come exclusively from large Strip hotels, off-Strip and ethnic restaurants are also included in the book.

Now before we start to criticize the critics for the omission of your favorite Las Vegas dining room, realize that the voice of this book sets a different tone than the rest of the field. As opposed to other “guidebooks” which rely in large part on collecting press releases from the hotels and restaurants, “Eating Las Vegas” is written by three qualified Food Writers with opinionated palates whose tastes are as distinctly different as their styles of writing.

Finally, the power of three ruled in the writing of the book—two of the authors could out vote the third. However, a sidebar to the rule was that each had absolute veto power. As such, it was rumored that the three musketeers nearly came to blows when two voiced support of a restaurant only to have the third express his utter frustration, horror and distaste for including a wretched restaurant that can’t make a meatball in the book. (The “veto” section of the book is one of the more intriguing chapters).

While the most popular part of the book may be who made the Top 10 list, in my view this isn’t a tome to the “best” restaurants in Las Vegas. As noted in the title, it’s a guide to the “Essential” restaurants one should consider when dining in Las Vegas.

Of course, I do have my own thoughts about the restaurants in Las Vegas that garnered a mention in the book. When I got home and read through the book, I realized that the most fun came not from my depressed memories of an over-salted guinea hen at a French restaurant or duplicitous service at a seafood palace, (both experiences happened at “Top 10” restaurants this year). No, the real fun came from relishing in the opinions of others whose tastes for dining in Las Vegas are different than my own.

[David Ross]

Two days after the book launch party, I was invited to a celebration at the Bellagio in recognition of the hotel restaurants that were named in the book:

Picasso, Chef Julian Serrano

Osteria del Circo, Chef Massimiliano Campanari

Yellowtail, Chef Akira Back

Prime Steakhouse, Chef Sean Griffin

Sensi, Chef Martin Heierling

Le Cirque, Maccioni Family

Each of the noted restaurants provided small tastings of some of their newest, seasonal dishes. While I walked into the reception expecting little nibbles, I soon realized we were in for a ten-course tasting menu that opened with canapés and closed with a selection of desserts. Incredibly, the Chefs had pulled off the feat a mere two days after being recognized as “essential” restaurants in Las Vegas—and the reception occurred in the middle of a Friday afternoon—just hours before dinner service would begin.

Picasso

Selection of Picasso Canapes

Circo

Butternut Squash Bombolotti

Butter, Sage, Amaretto Cookie, White Truffle

Chef Campanari preparing the Bombolotti-

Spinach and Sheep Ricotta Flan

Smoked Pancetta, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Warm Cabernet Vinaigrette

Yellowtail

Big Eye Tuna Pizza

Micro Shiso, Truffle Oil

Prime Steakhouse

Crabapple-Wrapped King Crab

Fresno Chili, Chive, Lime

32-Day Dry-Aged Rib Eye

Marinated Hon Shimenji Mushrooms,

Miso-Mustard Sauce

Sensi

Fresh-Shucked Nantucket Bay Scallops

Uni Butter, Seaweed Foam

I asked Chef Heierling if the Scallop dish was on his current menu at Sensi. He said that they were just trying something with these freshly-shucked Scallops and came up with the idea of glazing it with Uni butter. I urged him to put it on the menu. That day.

Raw Milk Goat Cheese Bites

Beet, Basil

Dynamite Live Prawns

Crispy Santa Barbara Spot Prawns, Creamy Chili Dip

Sonoma Duck Foie Gras Brulee

Rose Petal, Cocoa Nib, Brasied Bacon

Le Cirque

Classic Blanquette de Lapin

Braised Rabbit Leg, Crispy Spaetzle, Fava Beans,

White Truffles and Alsatian Riesling Sauce

Le Cirque Dessert Extravaganza

Phillipe Angibeau, Le Cirque Executive Pastry Chef

[Aloha Steve]

While the most popular part of the book may be who made the Top 10 list, in my view this isn’t a tome to the “best” restaurants in Las Vegas. As noted in the title, it’s a guide to the “Essential” restaurants one should consider when dining in Las Vegas.

David would you please list your top ten "BEST" Las Vegas restaurants based on the food, on/off the strip, whether in a hotel or not?

I'm sure I'm not the only one who would appreciate and benefit from your list.

If you get around to it..........we leave for L.V. shortly and will be there for three full days.

[David Ross]

While the most popular part of the book may be who made the Top 10 list, in my view this isn’t a tome to the “best” restaurants in Las Vegas. As noted in the title, it’s a guide to the “Essential” restaurants one should consider when dining in Las Vegas.

David would you please list your top ten "BEST" Las Vegas restaurants based on the food, on/off the strip, whether in a hotel or not?

I'm sure I'm not the only one who would appreciate and benefit from your list.

If you get around to it..........we leave for L.V. shortly and will be there for three full days.

Thanks for asking. This isn't exactly a top ten "BEST," but a list of my best choices based on some popular types of cuisine found in Las Vegas.

Steak-

CUT, The Palazzo. The steaks; corn-fed, (my personal choice), grass-fed and Wagyu in different grades are the main draw to Wolfgang Puck’s steakhouse, but as often is the case, it’s the side dishes that set a steakhouse above and apart from the competition. At CUT, try the soft, buttery Bone Marrow Flan served with Mushroom Marmalade and Parsley Salad or the Veal Tongue, Marinated Artichoke, Cannelini Beans and Salsa Verde, (a new-style tongue salad if you will), to start off your meal.

Craftsteak, MGM. Tom Collichio’s signature steakhouse in Las Vegas is an excellent choice if you are a single diner craving red meat. Step up to the bar without a reservation and you’ll be handed the full dining room menu. It’s a great place for people watching and you won’t have to worry about why the waiters and customers in the dining room are staring at the single diner sitting at a table in the corner. The bartender’s make a very good Old-Fashioned Cocktail with sweet and slightly smoky Maker’s Mark Kentucky Bourbon.

Note: Mario Batali’s Carnevino Steakhouse at The Palazzo gets a lot of attention, but I found the steaks overly salty and tougher in texture than what one would expect from cattle duly selected by Batali’s steak guy, Adam Perry Lang. The best part of the meal; the tiny crock of “lardo,” (aka pig fat), that was served with the warm ciabatta rolls. (I asked for two extra crocks).

French-

L’Atelier, MGM. Fine French food from Joel Robuchon in a somewhat casual scene as you sit at the counter watching Michelin-Star Chefs in Waiting slice thin shards of Spanish ham and craft Lobster Fritters with emerald green Parsley Sauce. (A far less expensive and formal adventure than what diners are offered at Robuchon next door).

Note: L’Atelier and Robuchon are my favorites amongst the offerings of the “French Masters”-Robuchon, Ducasse, Gagnaire and Savoy. The austere, Northern European style dining room at Guy Savoy sets the stage, (albeit too calmly for my tastes), for a meal of traditional French cuisine. The service is good, yet not at the exceptional level one expects for the prices. Robuchon is the Master who dabbles in all media-oils, watercolors, printmaking and sculpture. Think of Savoy as a classicist who paints in traditional styles with oil paints.

Italian-

Valentino, The Venetian. Las Vegas seemingly overflows with Italian restaurants, (or as some call it “Italian-American”). Stick with what has endured for years-the gracious style and passion for true Italian Cuisine brought to America by James Beard Award-Winning Piero Selvaggio and Chef Luciano Pellegrini. If quail is on the menu, order it. You’ll leave the table wondering how Chef Pellegrini prepares such tender, juicy little birds.

Note: The best time of year to visit Valentino is in the Fall when the white truffles from Alba, Italy are in season. Starting around the second week of November, (call ahead to insure the truffles are in harvest), Chef Pellegrini imports these rare fungi weekly. Order the Risotto with White Truffles. You’ll drift off into a slumber, dreaming of a dish so rare and delicious you’ll never order, (or make at home), any other plate of risotto....until next year at Valentino when the white truffles are in season.

Buffett-

Wynn. The design of the high-ceiling, front entry is lush with pastel colors and towering displays of faux fruits and vegetables-the perfect entre into what seems like a buffet for the rich, country club crowd. (and it is). The selection is not as vast nor crowded as other buffets, (Cravings at The Mirage and Le Village Buffet at Paris for example), but the quality of the dishes far surpasses the other buffets I’ve tried, (and that is most of them), in Las Vegas. The dessert bar is especially good what with all the little tarts, cakes and other pastries and confections on offer.

Bellagio. The design is more corporate industrial than the Wynn, the selection larger, yet the Buffet at Bellagio has slipped a bit on recent visits spanning the past 3-4 years. The salad selections, especially the cold seafood salads, are always my favorite. The little potato croquettes served at breakfast that have apparently replaced the old-style hash browns are oddly sweet and lacking much potato flavor.

Burger-

In-N-Out Burger, next to MGM. Las Vegas is flooded with chi-chi, expensive burger joints. While some rely on gimmicks to draw in the crowds, (burgers from specially bred steers who munched on organic diets, “adult” milkshakes with silly names and even a place with waitresses outfitted in skimpy Russian Army-style uniforms), avoid them if you can. In-N-Out Burger does burgers the right way, (sans the gimmicks and trends), by keeping things simple and concentrating on the basics of a good burger restaurant-beefy tasting juicy burgers, crisp, hot fries and thick shakes. That’s it, and they do it consistently well throughout their locations. I especially like the fact that In-N-Out is steps away from the MGM. I can grab a cheeseburger and fries and retire to my room-away from the maddening crowds of Las Vegas.

Deli/Coffee Shop-

Tropical Breeze Café, The Flamingo. Believe it or not, I have a “favorite coffee shop” in Las Vegas. One thinks of the Flamingo as being on the “B” level of Strip Hotels. It doesn’t have the chic swagger of the new Cosmopolitan or the towering stuffiness of the Wynn/Encore, but The Flamingo has one of the best old-style coffee shops in town. Ignore the early 80’s island motif and sit at the counter where a veteran waitress will serve you a hot Rueben Sandwich-salty corned beef, tangy Russian dressing, kraut and gooey Swiss cheese blanketed between buttery, toasted marble rye. It’s cheaper and far better than some of the more well-known New York imports, (i.e. Carnegie Deli at The Mirage.

Canter’s Deli, TI, (Treasure Island) If you can stand the wait in line, the wait at the counter while they deliver your takeout order and the lack of decent Black and White Cookies, Canter’s Deli is another good choice for hot pastrami or corned beef sandwiches, crunchy Kosher dills and big orders of fries.

Chinese-

Ping Pang Pong, Gold Coast for Dim Sum. For Dim Sum served in the traditional manner-cart after cart of authentic dishes-this is the place. It’s in the Gold Coast, a few blocks off the Strip in a worn-out, tired, smoke-filled casino, but it’s worth the trip.

Dong Ting Spring. It’s a short taxi ride off the Strip and it’s located in a cement mall in what they call the “Chinatown” section of Las Vegas. But appearances aside, this is the place to take a culinary journey to the cuisine of Hunan-spicy, flavorful and unique dishes that won’t set you back more than $15 bucks for plates that serve four. If you dream of dishes like Stewed Beef Tripe in Bao Ching Style, Fish with Shredded Turnip and Braised Crab Cha-Sa Style, you need to go to Dong Ting Spring. Endorsed by David Ross and Steven Shaw, (I think Steven agrees with me).

Wing Lei, Wynn. I haven’t ventured to an upscale Chinese restaurant on the Strip ever since Chef Richard Chen left Wing Lei at Wynn last year. While I am sure it is good, the prices at the upscale Chinese restaurants on the Strip will shock you. Be aware and read an online menu, with prices, before making a reservation.

Noodles, Bellagio. For a decent Dim Sum and Noodle lunch at a Strip hotel, Noodles in the Bellagio is a good choice. Tucked in a back corner that doesn’t get a lot of traffic, you’ll always find a seat at a table or the counter is available. Last time I was there, the Dim Sum was served on plates brought from the kitchen-not in the traditional manner on rolling carts.

Upscale Indian in a quiet room-

Mozen Bistro, Mandarin Oriental. What terrible timing, opening a 5-star hotel property amidst a terrible economic downturn in the most economically depressed city in the country. How they survive I don’t know, but the Mandarin Oriental Hotel houses two of the best restaurants in Las Vegas. One known-Twist by French Master Pierre Gagnaire and one lesser-known, Mozen Bistro serving a combination of Indian, Thai, Japanese and other “Pan-Asian” style dishes. You may enter the room wondering where everyone is, (this is a large hotel and there may not be any guests dining in the restaurant at 7pm on a Wednesday night), but you’ll be treated with 5-star service and spicy, flavorful cuisine properly served, (like the little dishes displayed on a banana leaf with various condiments served with your Lamb Biryani).

Upscale Lunch-

Tableau, Wynn or Society Café, Encore. It’s not easy finding a fine dining venue open during lunch in Las Vegas. I suppose it’s due to the fact that the hordes of conventioneers are only let out of their meeting room cages for 30 minutes each day before they are hoarded back for another inspirational speech. And tourists certainly don’t want to pluck down $23.00 for Wild Striped Bass with Crayfish Risotto and Carrott Reduction. I do. Both Tableau and Society Café offer what some call “New American” cuisine at lunch in deliciously vibrant, comfortable settings with a view and polished service.

Pastry Shops-

Jean-Phillipe, Aria. If you’re like me, you want to have some sweets in your room to satisfy those late-night cravings, and I don’t know where you live, but I don’t live next door to a Patisserie helmed by a World Pastry Champion. When you visit Las Vegas, take a trip to Aria and taste the pastries and confections crafted by French Pastry Chef Jean-Phillipe Maury and his brigade of pastry chefs. The breakfast pastries are light, flaky and butter-rich. For lunch, Jean-Phillipe offers savory sandwiches and delicious salads-my favorite is the smoked salmon and spinach salad. But we don’t go to Jean-Phillipe for smoked salmon or chicken salad sandwiches, we go for the sweets. The carrot cake is not the spice-cake with cream cheese frosting you might expect. No, you’ll encounter a display of bright orange domes holding layers of chocolate ganache, carrot “cake” and a center bomb of carrot mousse. Of course, this is Las Vegas so the cakes and tarts are liberally garnished with swirls of chocolate dusted with gold leaf.

Payard Patisserie, Caesar’s Palace. If you’re staying closer to the center of the Strip, take a trip to Payard in Caesar’s Palace. While the selection of pastries, confections and ice creams is not as grand as what you’ll find at Jean-Phillipe, the quality and art of the French Pastry Chef are evident at Francois Payard’s Shop. And the added bonus is that Payard’s Bistro next door is open for breakfast, lunch and now dinner serving affordable French Bistro fare.

[jsmeeker]

David

That is a pretty solid list of spots to eat in Las Vegas. I'll echo a lot of what you selected (like L'Atelier, Ping Pang Pong), disagree over your assessment about the beef at Carnevino, and then throw in a few of my own. Sensi at Bellagio (pity they aren't opened for lunch any more) and for an off-strip venture, Vintner Grill.

(oh, and In-n-Out isn't exactly "next to" MGM Grand)

[David Ross]

And for the "best" breakfast I'll say the "Eggs, Eggs, Eggs" dish at Silk Road at Vdara Hotel in the City Center complex. Created by Chef Martin Heirling, also the Chef at Sensi at Bellagio.

[jsmeeker]

I'll toss out a place I really like for breakfast.

Mon Ami Gabi at Paris. Sit out on the patio. It's great

[Aloha Steve]

Thank you both!

We have a car while in Vegas.

We have reservations for Valentino 1st night, 2nd night Picasso and for the third ????? Chinese sounds like the ticket. Like most places in the world only Dim Sum for lunch Still you guys think Ping Pang Pong for mild like Cantonese?

I have a pre set lunch during the convention day.

On the way from the airport we were going to Hash House A Go Go for breakfast.

I think that takes care of the meals more or less.

Edited January 25, 2011 by Aloha Steve (log)