Techniques for Roasting Potatoes

[paulraphael]

I'm baffled by the benefit of parboiling roasted potatoes. I jump through all kinds of molecular hoops when mashing them, but the best roasted spuds I've ever had came out of a 500 degree oven, with practically no fuss. Enlighten me. If anyone says anything convincing I'll do a side by side trial.

[andiesenji]

I'm baffled by the benefit of parboiling roasted potatoes. I jump through all kinds of molecular hoops when mashing them, but the best roasted spuds I've ever had came out of a 500 degree oven, with practically no fuss. Enlighten me. If anyone says anything convincing I'll do a side by side trial.

I've never done this either. Rarely, when I have forgotten to put the (large russet) potatoes in at the desirable time, I will use the "potato nails" someone gave me about forty years ago to speed up the baking. Using these cuts the baking time by 1/3 (at 450° F.). If I want a super crusty potato, I rub the washed and dried skin with lard (or Crisco if I am cooking for friends who don't eat animal or pork products.)

I don't get the same effect with butter - have no idea why but as this works for me, I'm sticking with it.

[OliverB]

small baby potatoes go on baking sheet, add garlic (peeled if I feel like it), fresh rosemary, good dose of coarse salt and pepper, douse with olive oil, toss and in the hot oven they go, usually 450 degree or so. Might add small onions if I have any or some onion cut into large pieces. Might stir them around once or twice if I get to it.

Other option, make a pouch of heavy duty aluminum foil, put in same ingredients and close tightly, put on bbq. I sometimes even rest them on the chimney used for starting charcoal after the newspaper has burned off to give them a head start. Turn and move around occasionally, once chimney gets too hot move to the side. Once coals are covered with ash, add to bbq, put grill on, put potatoes close to fire ( I usually have the fire on one side) and close lid of bbq to heat. Clean grill grate, add protein and cook covered. Might have to play with timing depending on what I cook, but they come out wonderfully creamy with a bit of char here and there, delicious!

Come to think of it, I think I have to make some baked potatoes in my big green egg one of these days....

I love potatoes in any way they come, from mashed to chips, could eat them every day. Especially purple ones.

[Special K]

I don't parboil either. I thought that was just to save time, and when I roast potatoes it's usually when I'm slow-roasting a chicken or a big hunk of meat.

I just cut baby potatoes or fingerlings in half lengthwise, toss them in a big ziplock bag, add a generous amount of olive oil, pesto, and a lot of salt and pepper, and then I massage the bag until everything is fully coated.* Then I convect roast them (one layer in a half-sheet pan) at whatever temperature whatever else in the oven needs, until they're fork-tender (no need to turn them). Occasionally they get a bit overcooked - well, they look overcooked - and while they might look sad, they're really good that way, too.

I have also roasted potatoes with the chicken or roast resting right on top of them, as Chris Hennes does, at higher heat when I'm short on time.

*You know what? It just occurred to me that since I season the chicken or meat the same way (in a big ziplock bag), I could probably just throw the potatoes in with the chicken and season them all together, saving a step (and putting one less ziplock bag into the landfill). I think I'll try that next time.

edited to identify which Chris

Edited December 14, 2009 by Special K (log)

[maggiethecat]

The parboil process isn't about speeding along the cooking process, it's about ever-so-slightly "fraying" the outside of the potato so that the weakened fibers can better absorb the fat, producing a thicker, crispier crust. Because a microwave cooks from the inside out pre-cooking them in the nuke doesn't give the same result.

[LindaK]

Similar to the Martha Stewart recipe but simpler: preheat oven to 400. use kosher salt to make a 1/2 inch bed of salt in a shallow roasting pan. Wash and dry fingerling or other small waxy potatoes. nestle the potatoes into the salt, roast until tender and skin begins to wrinkle. remove from salt bed, brush off excess salt, toss with a little bit of evoo, pepper. Perfect, but for variation some chopped parsley adds some freshness.

Another memorable potato roast was equally simple: thin slices of waxy potatoes, tossed with evoo, salt, pepper, and chopped fresh rosemary. arranged artfully on a baking sheet in a thin layer, roasted at high temperature until cooked through. There was a friendly fight over the last few slices of this one.

When adding potatoes to roast alongside meat, though, I'm with Chris Hennes and others who prefer the floury potatoes. Consider roasting whole (peeled) shallots along with the potato chunks. Not only are they delicious as a side with the potatoes, but they add nice flavor to the jus.

[nakji]

I simply parboil because I want to save time and money. It's hard to explain to my landlady that I don't mind the power bills that come from leaving my oven on for an hour or so. Par-boiling happens to yield an interestingly-crusted potato, but I'd be just as happy doing it the other way as well.

[Toliver]

Because a microwave cooks from the inside out...

Psst. This is incorrect. Check the link:"Do microwaves cook food from the inside out?"

[maggiethecat]

Because a microwave cooks from the inside out...

Psst. This is incorrect. Check the link:"Do microwaves cook food from the inside out?"

I hang my head.

But I'm still a dedicated parboiler, for reasons stated above.

[dougal]

I'm baffled by the benefit of parboiling roasted potatoes. I jump through all kinds of molecular hoops when mashing them, but the best roasted spuds I've ever had came out of a 500 degree oven, with practically no fuss. Enlighten me. If anyone says anything convincing I'll do a side by side trial.

It depends on what potato variety you are using and what result you are aiming for.

By parboiling, drying and gently distressing floury potatoes, you can produce a very soft interior within a crunchy crust. And, if you cut the potato so that the pieces have at least one flat side to sit on, and you baste but avoid turning the potato over, then you can get a third distinct texture on the base.

You'll get to somewhere rather different if you use a firm ("waxy") potato rather than a floury one, and if you leave them whole or slice them into coins you can get to places that you won't with a floury potato - but you are actually heading for what in the UK would be called "game chips" rather than "roast potatoes".

The business with twice cooking floury potatoes is commonly encountered with "fries" (or 'chips' as they are known in English).

Bourdain's (Les Halles) method insists on two phases. And floury potatoes.

But Blumenthal reckons on three phases of cooking for perfection. (parboiling and two fryings)

Its all about getting the inside and outside to completely different and seemingly incompatible places.

And the exact same logic applies to roast potatoes as does to fries.

Edited December 15, 2009 by dougal (log)

[paulraphael]

That explains it. I generally roast waxier potatoes. And I get the soft/crisp thing just by using a very hot oven.

[dougal]

That explains it. I generally roast waxier potatoes. And I get the soft/crisp thing just by using a very hot oven.

Well Paul, when you fancy a shot at softer AND crispier, have a go at the parboiling and 'distressing' (or Blumenthal's dusting with flour).

[dougal]

There's an interesting comparative piece today on The Guardian's website. (and there's plenty subsequent commentary)

Comparing the (roast potato) commandments of Heston, Hugh F-W, Delia and Nigella (with the odd reference to Jamie).

And applying each recipe to three different varieties of potato...

Sort of Celebrity Cook-Off.

Oddly, given that it's Nigella who normally gets the nod from me I'd combine Delia's parboiling and shaking, HFW's groundnut oil, Heston's seasoning and potato peeling trick. Do that to a Maris Piper for me, and a Desiree for A, and we would be truly happy.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/dec/17/best-roast-potato-recipe

[nakji]

Oh, I'd just read that and was coming to post that very link. I liked the discussion of the various types of fats used, and the trick of heating the oil up first, before throwing the potatoes in. What I thought was curious was that Heston Blumenthal wanted us to boil our skins in with our potatoes, to give them more "potato" flavour. I never noticed that my potatoes were lacking potato flavour. That and all of the recipes discussed called for par-boiling potatoes, where it's clear that hardly anyone discussing roast potatoes here does. Does par-boiling create a different roast potato experience?

The potatoes I have access to in China make for generally poor roast and mashed potatoes - they're incrediblly sweet, not the least floury, and they're extremely wet. I despair.

[nickrey]

I tried Heston Blumenthal's method for roast potoatoes today for our Christmas dinner. Used duck fat to cook them in. They were the best I've ever had. Did I say "Yum"?

[agray]

Just roasted spuds for today's Christmas dinner and I also took some pointers from this thread. I peeled several pounds of Yukon Golds, parboiled them and bashed them around a bit when they were done, then tossed them with about 1/2 cup of goose fat (we roasted a goose for dinner - very nice). Roasted at 450 degrees for about 40 minutes and they were excellent. And I have a nice big jar of goose fat left over. Yum!

Edited December 26, 2009 by agray (log)

[nakji]

I used par-boiled spuds in hot olive oil and finished with bacon fat yesterday, and received many compliments. One person even called them, "the business." I was quite chuffed. The nice thing was, I was quite busy in the kitchen, and didn't pull them out of the oven as soon as I might have otherwise - to their benefit, I think. They were very crisp and crunchy on the outside, while still being soft and creamy in the interior. I'll do that again.

[ChrisTaylor]

Hope the bump is okay. Was considering this issue myself.

My method:

* small potatoes (undecided if waxy or floury is better, leaning towards waxy, but jury is still out), peeled and cut into halves

* on peeling: be a bit rough with your peeling, intentional, angled cuts and faces are a good thing here

* barpoiled in water (with a good amount of salt--no half-arsed 'pinch') until almost falling apart

* something I picked up from Blumenthal: returning potatoes to dry saucepan on low heat, cooking much moisture out of them, gently shaking the pan--this step is critical for potatoes with a nice crust, the sort of crust you see on ads for frozen fries and such. You want to rough up all sides of the potatoes as much as possible without destroying them--be gentle.

* meanwhile, duck fat is pre-heating, a fair amount of it, in an oven-capable frypan

* tip potatoes in, turn them to ensure they all coated all over with oil, sprinkle with salt

* turn over every twenty minutes or half hour or so, cook for 80-90 minutes at 170*

* forget about reheating them

Currently considering ...

* trying lamb fat (for serving with roast lamb, braised lamb shoulder, etc)

* somehow infusing the cooking liquid with, say, rosemary or garlic (or 'marinating' the potatoes)--the idea being that maybe it'd lend a subtle flavour to the potato flesh (too, do I have to use water? Perhaps some kind of vegetable stock?)

* messing around with creating a double crust

Edited January 9, 2011 by ChrisTaylor (log)

[cbread]

I used par-boiled spuds in hot olive oil and finished with bacon fat yesterday, and received many compliments. One person even called them, "the business."

I recently took average size red waxy potatoes, quartered them unpeeled, par boiled them in very well salted water, then gave them a prolonged very deep browning in bacon fat on each cut face. As I finished them they seemed rather hard and dry and I was worried they would be unappetizing, but once I cut into them they were hands down the best spuds I've ever made. The crust was wonderful. Lots of browning time and the use of bacon fat seem to make a big difference. Bacon fat is some sort of magic ingredient.

[JasonW]

I am definitely in the par-boiling camp ala Blumenthal and really enjoy those roast potatoes.

Though most of the time the crust is more tough and less brittle than "perfection" imo

Is this due to low starch potatoes being used?

Am I not drying thoroughly enough?

[harrysnapperorgans]

I've found that parboiling the potatoes first consistently results in a thicker, crispier crust.

I like to boil them with plenty of pink mineral salt, a stick or two of rosemary, a few cloves of garlic, and a whole lemon. This starts the flavors going.

Then I toss the spuds in hot extra virgin olive oil (or duck fat if I can get hold of it), season recklessly with salt and black pepper and add the rosemary, garlic and lemon to the tray as well.

I save a little of the starchy lemon-garlic flavored potato water and use some of it in gravy or a pan sauce.

I did roast potatoes for 21 people on Christmas day and I think I got close to 21 complements on them.

[ChrisTaylor]

I am definitely in the par-boiling camp ala Blumenthal and really enjoy those roast potatoes.

Though most of the time the crust is more tough and less brittle than "perfection" imo

Is this due to low starch potatoes being used?

Am I not drying thoroughly enough?

Do you turn the potatoes when they're in the oven?

What kind of fat are you using?

What kind of potatoes (waxy/floury)?

What temperature?

How long?

[Will]

By parboiling, drying and gently distressing floury potatoes, you can produce a very soft interior within a crunchy crust.

I personally really like the results from doing it this way, and I agree that in my limited experience, you get different results (in terms of texture) from par-boiling or not. I like fingerlings (even waxy ones) done this way.... parboiled in very salty water and then roasted.

How do folks feel about "crash hot potatoes"?

Edited January 10, 2011 by Will (log)

[JasonW]

I am definitely in the par-boiling camp ala Blumenthal and really enjoy those roast potatoes.

Though most of the time the crust is more tough and less brittle than "perfection" imo

Is this due to low starch potatoes being used?

Am I not drying thoroughly enough?

Do you turn the potatoes when they're in the oven?

What kind of fat are you using?

What kind of potatoes (waxy/floury)?

What temperature?

How long?

I usually use Russets or Yukon Golds.

Shaking the roasting tray maybe every 10-15 min

Usually using olive oil or duck/chicken fat

roasting usually between 425 and 500F

never tried a convection oven though

what is the effect of heating the fat first?

[JBailey]

Years ago there was a popular restaurant on the north side of Indianapolis that featured turpentine baked potatoes. I understood they used a pine based resin/rosin for the turpentine and fried or boiled the potatoes in a kettle. Does anyone else remember this?