French regional cuisine in Paris in August

[brescd01]

My wife and I will travel to Paris August 8-18. I don't know Paris well and I have not been there in a long time. We have not figured out where to stay but have targeted the Raphael or the Lancaster.

Neither of us favors haute cuisine such as that served at Taillevent and furthermore we want to spend much less than 75 euros/person (neither of us drinks much). We prefer rustic product-driven restaurants (like Severo, which is closed in August), also regional food, which is very difficult to get in the USA.

So I ask, what are people's recs for places specializing in French regional cuisine. An old review in the Guardian recommended Ma Bourgogne for instance, Pudlo does not give it even one plate (or whatever those little things are).

I have read about Au Boeuf Curonne, Garnier, and Bistro du Dome (all product driven restaurants). What about regional (feel free to add thoughts about steakhouses/seafood places)?

[John Talbott]

Well, let's see.

Breton; Chez Michel & lots of crepes places (Breizh Cafe most notably) and today's 'Scope had another Nominoe that I'll post on the Digest Monday.

Southwest: l'Auberge des Pyrenees-Cevennes, Sarladais, Trou Gascon.

Auvergne: Auberge Aveyronnaise, Ambassade d'Auvergne.

Medit: Mediterranee.

Alsatian: the brasseries, Chez Jenny most reputed (huge charcuterie).

Basque: Au Bascou, Afaria, Cerisaie

Corsican: A Casaluna whose ardoise I just admired again today.

Lyonnais: Aux L.

Provence: Bastide Odeon.

For seafood I concur on the Bistro du Dome but also really liked the new La Maree + Goumard's make-over.

A friend had a great meal last week at Garnier but I have not been in years; ditto Au Boeuf Couronne home of the last pommes souffles which weren't so great. Is Jeu de Quilles open in August, next to Desnoyer it's got good meat.

[brescd01]

Thanks for the detailed reply: what is Desnoyer? Taking out those restos closed during the dates we will be in Paris (August 9-18), I have:

Chez Georges 273 bd Pereire Sud 75017 45743100

Afaria 15 rue Desnouettes 48561536

Bistrot du Dôme 1 rue Delambre 75014 43353200

L'Auberge Aveyronnaise 40 rue Gabriel-Lame 43401224

Brasserie Lipp, 151 bd St-Germain, 75006 45485391

Le Balzar 49 rue des Ecoles, 75005 43541367

Bofinger 5-7 rue de la Bastille, 75004 42728782

Brasserie ma Bourgogne 19 Place des Vosges, 75004 42784464

A Casaluna 4-6 rue de Beaujolais 42600511

Again, my wife and I would prefer product-driven and regional restos. Neither of us I am pretty sure wants to dine in one of the super-expensive restaurants dedicated to haute cuisine, not just because of cost (though who does eat at Tour d'Argent with a menu at 300 euros/person?), but because whether in our native Philly or Europe, we just don't enjoy them.

I composed this list from a variety of sources, though the only real authoritative guide I have consulted until now is Pudlo. Michelin is coming (supposedly).

Edited April 23, 2009 by brescd01 (log)

[John Talbott]

Hugo Desnoyer is the butcher who supplies many of the good meat places: Hugo Desnoyer, 45, rue Boulard (14e), tél.0145407667.

Of your list I would support (one man's opinion) in this order:

Afaria 15 rue Desnouettes 48561536

Bistrot du Dôme 1 rue Delambre 75014 43353200

A Casaluna 4-6 rue de Beaujolais 42600511

[pierre45]

Thanks for the detailed reply: what is Desnoyer? Taking out those restos closed during the dates we will be in Paris (August 9-18), I have:

Chez Georges 273 bd Pereire Sud 75017 45743100

Afaria 15 rue Desnouettes 48561536

Bistrot du Dôme 1 rue Delambre 75014 43353200

L'Auberge Aveyronnaise 40 rue Gabriel-Lame 43401224

Brasserie Lipp, 151 bd St-Germain, 75006 45485391

Le Balzar 49 rue des Ecoles, 75005 43541367

Bofinger 5-7 rue de la Bastille, 75004 42728782

Brasserie ma Bourgogne 19 Place des Vosges, 75004 42784464

A Casaluna 4-6 rue de Beaujolais 42600511

Again, my wife and I would prefer product-driven and regional restos. Neither of us I am pretty sure wants to dine in one of the super-expensive restaurants dedicated to haute cuisine, not just because of cost (though who does eat at Tour d'Argent with a menu at 300 euros/person?), but because whether in our native Philly or Europe, we just don't enjoy them.

I composed this list from a variety of sources, though the only real authoritative guide I have consulted until now is Pudlo. Michelin is coming (supposedly).

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You must love brasseries,specially Lipp ,where you'll be treated like an unwanted tourist.Except for Afaria and perhaps bistrot du dome the rest of the list is not exciting ,specially compared to the ones that are much better and cost around 30 euros /person.

However I grant you that it will be difficult in august.

[brescd01]

I think I love the idea of a brasserie, but given that I have not been in one in my recollection, feel free to set me straight. Can you suggest better brasseries? Or brasseries where I will be better treated? I find hard to believe that in such a cosmopolitan city as Paris I would be treated badly because I speak French with an accent...I remember thinking I had been mistreated by Parisians when I was in my twenties, but I think I was way too sensitive.

[John Talbott]

I think I love the idea of a brasserie, but given that I have not been in one in my recollection, feel free to set me straight. Can you suggest better brasseries? Or brasseries where I will be better treated? I find hard to believe that in such a cosmopolitan city as Paris I would be treated badly because I speak French with an accent...I remember thinking I had been mistreated by Parisians when I was in my twenties, but I think I was way too sensitive.

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I agree with Pierre (as usual) that your list has a lot of either subpar or touristy brasseries - probably because they're open in August. I'm down on brasseries after a succession of mediocre meals in them. The best of the lot though, I think, is Lorraine on the Ternes Square, which says it's open in August.

There is a compendium on August, let me know by PM if the links are broken.

Also very few places take the whole month off, often it's the first two or last two weeks so checking is worthwhile.

[Ptipois]

Lipp is not touristy, it's just not worth it if you're not a politician, a TV-movie-music celebrity, or any other type of glamorous citizen. Even I can get served a stale sole meunière at Lipp. The tartare is pretty good though, but there are other places for that.

[brescd01]

This is very helpful: can you be more specific about the sub-par brasseries on my list besides Lipp? What has the Flo-ification of the brasseries done to their character or quality?

[John Talbott]

This is very helpful: can you be more specific about the sub-par brasseries on my list besides Lipp? What has the Flo-ification of the brasseries done to their character or quality?

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Well, after Pti's post about Pierre's and my experiences at Lipp I hesitate to answer, because, as an American, I see my kin everywhere. But I'd say the "Flo-ification" is like my brother-in-law described Holiday Inn's, they're not much, but you know what to expect. As all who read Adam Gopkik's piece on saving Balzar know, he never went back years later (to my knowledge) and I did and suffered through a tough meal. That said, when Colette and I were hosting our 2 ten-year olds last month, we took them to Bofinger for the decor and when I alight at the Gare du Nord at 9 PM, I go to the Terminus Nord. But I'm not on a celebratory week.

I suspect they're closed in August, but three places that I've tried recently are "product-driven" and wonderful - MBC, Frenchie and tmrw Passage 53.

Confucius said "Go with your heart."

PS The other "brasserie" you mentioned was Ma Bourgogne, I dunno, it's been years since I've been.

[brescd01]

his is a lot of fun, so don't mind the "over-planning." Here is the list incorporating peoples' suggestions:

Brasserie Stella 133 avenue Victor Hugo 75016 56905600

Bistrot du Dôme 1 rue Delambre 75014 43353200

L'Auberge Aveyronnaise 40 rue Gabriel Lame 75012 43401224

Garnier 111 rue Saint Lazare 75008 43875040

Brasserie Lorraine 2-4 place des Ternes 75008 56212200

Les Fables de la Fontaine 131 rue Saint-Dominique 75007 44183755

Brasserie ma Bourgogne 19 Place des Vosges 75004 42784464

Chez Jenny 39 boulevard du Temple 75003 44543900

A Casaluna 4 rue Beaujolais 75001 42600511

I am using the suggestions made in this thread and also the most recent Pudlo. Gault, Lebay and Michelin are in the mail. We will be staying at the Raphael, so I have heavily favored restaurants in proximity. I am particularly eager to get rid of any restaurants that are touristic so have at it.

[rjwong]

Here's the link to Restaurant Jean (one star Michelin) in the 9th arrondisement: http://www.restaurantjean.fr/

Restaurant Jean just made an announcement two weeks ago that the restaurant will be open for the entire summer:

Jean sera ouvert tout l'été

Nous avons le plaisir de vous annoncer que Jean restera ouvert tout l'été.Venez découvrir ou redécouvrir notre tandem "Salé-Sucré" : Anthony Boucher et Alison Jonhson qui vous concocteront une cuisine créative et passionnante

According to the website, a lunch menu is priced at 46 Euros and a five-course dinner menu for 75 Euros.

[PhilD]

Lipp is not touristy, it's just not worth it if you're not a politician, a TV-movie-music celebrity, or any other type of glamorous citizen. Even I can get served a stale sole meunière at Lipp. The tartare is pretty good though, but there are other places for that.

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Lipp is indeed a challenge, although we managed to navigate through it and generally ended up having a good meal and sitting at the front (a feat in itself). In-fact out best meal was when I took my 80 year old father there and the staff were fantastic. The three cafes/brasseries in that area Lipp, Flore Deux Magots are all worth a visit if only for a beer or coffee. Lots of history, and quintessentially, modern moneyed, Paris.

One of the challenges of putting together any list for a visitor is to balance exceptional food with the history and glamour of Paris. I am quite food obsessed but I appreciate the decor in places like Boffinger and many of the other Flo places. OK the food is only passable but I think you need at least one grand brasserie on any itinerary.

I agree with John on Balzar, we popped in on passing on my last trip , and it was a big mistake. The decor isn't stunning and the food was poor. And on railway stations there is always "Le Train Bleu", passable food (if you are lucky) but stunning decor.

[John Talbott]

And on railway stations there is always "Le Train Bleu", passable food (if you are lucky) but stunning decor.

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And I agree with Phil, Le Train Bleu is the most stunning place we've got and sometimes the food is ok-good. Maybe you should just step inside Bofinger, look around, pretend you're lost and exit.

[brescd01]

1) Stella, Jenny, or Lorraine do not qualify as "one grand brasserie"? What about Flandrin?

2) Jean is over $100/person, where does it place in the scheme of "regional or product-driven restaurants open in August," a tall order I know.

I am without a steakhouse, not to say that this is essential, but everyone's favorite Severo is closed in August and Boeuf Couronne is really far from the Raphael (or anything), I hardly think it is worth a special trip. Remember, we will only be there for nine days. We can always come back, but that is this trip (I own my own business and getting away is a big affair...).

Edited April 27, 2009 by brescd01 (log)

[julot-les-pinceaux]

I'm not sure there's even one address matching your initial request:

1- At any time of the year, it will be difficult to find regional food, product driven by the hotel Raphaël

2- But the real issue here is of course being in the middle of August. Honestly, I think you should start with looking at the Michelin Paris and its "open in July and August" page.

The places I see in there that could match your request include: Au Petit Riche, l'Avant Goût, Bistrot d'Hubert, Bistrot Niel, Café Constant (and les Fables and les Cocottes), Chez Casimir, Drouant, La Fontaine de Mars, Joséphine, Le Mesturet, l'Ourcine, Pasco, le Petit Marguery, le Petit Pontoise, La Rotonde, la Villa Corse.

None of those is close to le Rafaël (Le Bistrot Niel is not too far). In particular, I'm pretty sure nothing will be open in the rue Lauriston in August. You'll have to head to the Champs-Elysées, and there, I don't see how non touristy can happen. Non touristy in Paris in Auhust is a contradiction in terms. Non touristy in Paris in August is somewhere in the country side, maybe. Or in much less fancy neighbourhoods where people can't afford vacations -- say La Villette, where the boeuf couronnée is, or Chinatown. and even there, France closes in August.

About the steak house -- the relais de l'entrecôte in rue de Marignan and la Maison de l'Aubrac are close enough to your hotel. They have decent steaks. But it still puzzles me why anyone would come to France for beef -- and why the French eat so much of theirs. That said, you'll get good steaks at Joséphine, La Rotonde, l'Ourcine, La Fonatine (closest to your hotel in that list) and, yes, le Boeuf couronné.

Edited April 27, 2009 by julot-les-pinceaux (log)

[julot-les-pinceaux]

I know you're opposed to fine dining, but I should mention that l'Arpège, le Cinq, La Table de JR (and its 55e all included prixifixe lunch on weekdays) are open in August.

[brescd01]

Thank you so much for your detailed suggestions. Michelin is in the mail and I will definitely take your suggestions when it arrives. Just to be clear, I am not "opposed" to fine dining philosophically. My wife and I are just comfortable with what we enjoy. I guess we are the "NASCAR" or "WWF" crowd of the foodie world!

[brescd01]

Enriched by eGullet advice, Pudlo, Lebay, Gayot, and the recent book "Je me ferais bien un..." this is my current list.

Le Winch 44 rue Damremont 75018 42230463

Chez Georges 273 boulevard Pereire 75017 45743100

Le Ballon des Ternes 103 avenue des Ternes 75017 45741798

Bar a Huitres 69 avenue Wagram 75017 43806354

La Cabane a Huitres 4 rue Antoine Bourdelle 75015 45494727

Bistrot du Dôme 1 rue Delambre 75014 43353200

L'Europeen 21 bis boulevard Diderot 75012 43439970

Devez 5 place de l'Alma 75008 53679753

Brasserie Lorraine 2-4 place des Ternes 75008 56212200

Huitrerie Regis 3 rue Montfaucon 75006 44411007

Chez Jenny 39 boulevard du Temple 75003 44543900

A Casaluna 4 rue Beaujolais 75001 42600511