New Orleans 72hours

[BryanZ]

Cool. Galatoire's is also a bit more conveniently located, too, I guess. Though the allure of $.25 martinis at lunch at CP is strong.

[BrooksNYC]

Bryanz, you might want to drop in on the Chowhound board as well (although locals aren't big contributors to that board either).

If you're going to do Commander's, lunch, I think, beats dinner.

I love Galatoire's, but be aware that the menu is a time-warp, and that's part of the experience. Order a drink and some souffle potatoes immediately so you have something to do while looking over the menu, then ask your waiter what's good that day.

Saturnbar, did the Bistro at Maison de Ville reopen? It was closed for a while.

[MikeHartnett]

Bryanz, you might want to drop in on the Chowhound board as well (although locals aren't big contributors to that board either).

If you're going to do Commander's, lunch, I think, beats dinner.

I love Galatoire's, but be aware that the menu is a time-warp, and that's part of the experience. Order a drink and some souffle potatoes immediately so you have something to do while looking over the menu, then ask your waiter what's good that day.

Saturnbar, did the Bistro at Maison de Ville reopen? It was closed for a while.

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For what it's worth, I live in New Orleans, and here's what I thought of my only experience with Galatoire's. http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showto...dpost&p=1589086

I really think that where it's at in New Orleans in smaller bistro-type places, like Iris, Gautreau's, etc., and the Vietnamese in New Orleans East (Dong Phuong) and the Westbank (Nine Roses and Tan Dinh) (and Harahan, for Kim Anh's pho).

Also, a new must-hit is Cure, if you've got the time and inclination. Fantastic drinks in a great space.

Edited August 12, 2009 by MikeHartnett (log)

[BryanZ]

So I'm going next week, getting in Monday afternoon and leaving super early Thursday morning. First visit to the city. Other than oppressive heat and humidity I'm expecting to eat some good food.

Definites:

-Cochon at the counter

-Cure for cocktails

Classic New Orleans Lunch

-Galatoire's or Commander's Palace. I know I asked this before, but if you had to pick one, which would it be?

Cheap, local food:

-Parkway for po'boys

-Willie Mae's Scotch House for fried chicken

-Central Grocery for muffuletta

-CdM for beignets and coffee

-Acme for raw oysters

-Bourbon House for baked oysters. Should I do both Acme (cheaper) and BH (more interesting) or will one suffice? These would be less meal stops than snack ones.

-Hansen's Sno-Blitz for shaved ice

Bars (besides Cure):

-Lobby Bar at Pere Marquette for Chris McMillan. I should note that finding out this guy's schedule has proven next to impossible. Apparently, it's a call the evening of kind of affair.)

-Swizzle Stick

-Arnaud's French 75

-Napoleon House. Is this place worth going to?

-Are there any non-cocktail bars that are cool/divey/cute/interesting that anyone can recommend?

Misc. questions:

-I can't make Kermit Ruffins's Thursday show but his Myspace page lists a weekly Tuesday 6:30 pm show at Bullet's Sports Bar. Not much written about this place. Anyone know anything?

-Are jackets seriously the norm even in the summer at Galatoire's and Commander's Palace?

-At the likes of August, MiLa, Herbsaint, how are they about diners just ordering a couple starters in the dining room? I'm not sure I want to commit to a full meal at any of these pricier spots and might want to visit a couple on a night. Is this frowned upon?

-Is Parkway better for po'boys than Liuzza's?

-Is the Southern Food and Beverage Museum worth going to?

-Any particularly good jazz or blues clubs that have solid tunes regardless of the night?

-Am I missing anything?

[Holly Moore]

Consider:

The Camellia Grill - classy grease

Casamento's - Sparkling white seafood house - shucked oysters and oyster loaf

I might like Domilise's better for Po-Boys. Maybe Parkway. Try both if you can.

[philadining]

Bryan: I can't answer many of your questions, but:

Move Hansen's up into the the Definites list.

As for PoBoy places, it probably depends on what kind of Po Boy you want. If it's the classic debris-style Roast beef, go to Parkway or Parasol. If it's shrimp or oysters, Parkway is also very well thought-of, although I haven't had them (but saw some nearby that looked pretty rocking) or you might want to try Liuzza's. Or, maybe it's more geographic - get one from Domilise's because you're going to be out that way anyway going to Hansen's. If you are just picking one with no other variables, I might say Parkway, but you're going to get a good, interesting sandwich at any of the places you mentioned.

Go to the trouble of tracking Chris McMillan down.

It's worth going to the Napolean house, especially if you like a Pimms Cup.

For a non-cocktail bar AND music on a random night, try d.b.a. out on Frenchman Street. They have cocktails, but it's not a fancy cocktailian place, just a good bar with reasonable prices and a very deep selection and usually a listenable band or two. And if it's not doing it for you, there are a few other places right nearby that might.

I've eaten at the bar quite comfortably at both Herbsaint and Mila, which might assuage your guilt over killing a table for something less than a full meal.

BTW, Casmento's is closed until Sept 15.

Edited August 14, 2009 by philadining (log)

[Timh]

Stella just got 75 beans. Go there.

[docsconz]

The oyster and shrimp po' boys at Parkway are excellent. I especially liked the shrimp. The quality of the shrimp is outstanding.

I pretty much agree with everything Philadining wrote.

[BryanZ]

Thanks for the feedback. What are these beans you speak of, Timh?

[Nishla]

Bryan, I highly recommend Verti Marte for po-boys, especially fried catfish or hot sausage. It's on Royal St (1200ish?), and the sandwich counter is at the back of a convenience store. In fact, I'm still dreaming about the fried catfish. I liked them a lot better than Parkway (and not just because Parkway coincided with puking my guts out from participating in too many Tales events).

I thought Hansen's was really good, but not worth the price of the cab rides (~$30 total from French Quarter). It's the best shaved ice ever, but it's just shaved ice, if that makes any sense.

I second the motion for Pimms Cups at Napoleon. Also, you should try to get bbq shrimp somewhere. Mr B's in the French Quarter was good.

I really did not enjoy the raw oysters...the ones I had at ACME were mushy and gross. Fried or baked were good. It's possible that I just may not appreciate Gulf oysters.

If you can see Kermit Ruffins anywhere, go. Last year we saw him at the Rock n' Bowl, this year at Vaughn's, and and both were a great time.

Have a great time!

[philadining]

It's mostly just a personal preference thing, but, although I had three Verti Marte Po boys on my last trip, that was primarily due to its location and 24-hour-ness. I just don't love the rolls they use, I much prefered the po boys at Parkway, especially the hot sausage. But, a chacun son gout...

But I must object: Hansen's isn't JUST shaved ice!! It's, ummm, MAGIC!

[Tony Boulton]

My wife and I went to New Orleans before we were married and a fellow passenger who lived there recommended The Court of Two Sisters for the Sunday brunch. It was awesome. You could sit there as long as you wished and we just kept going back to the buffet for more. Great Eggs Benedict. Lovely place.

[BryanZ]

The problem with Hansen's is that it really seems like it's in the middle of nowhere. Everyone says such amazing things so I really, really want to try it, but without a car it's hard to justify the cab fare. Ideas?

[Timh]

Mimi's in the marigny is cool and funky local that serves tapas upstairs late. Coops for inner quarter scene and good gumbo, Herbsaint to see both sides of Donald Link (Cochon). And definitely the vietnamese recs are solid.

[TAPrice]

Consider:

I might like Domilise's better for Po-Boys.  Maybe Parkway.  Try both if you can.

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I think Domilise's has really fallen in quality recently. Hate to say that, because I people are great and the atmosphere is fun. But the shrimp has been tiny and overbattered recently.

If you're in the area after a Hansen's run, I would recommend Guy's Po-Boys on Magazine or red beans or jambalaya from Tee-Eva on Magazine and Dufossat.

[docsconz]

The problem with Hansen's is that it really seems like it's in the middle of nowhere.  Everyone says such amazing things so I really, really want to try it, but without a car it's hard to justify the cab fare.  Ideas?

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Take the trolley or walk.

[BryanZ]

Did not realize how close it was to the streetcar line. Will certainly make it a point to get out there then.

[philadining]

It's a nice bike-ride from the Quarter, and we appreciated the exercise... But if you're not up for that, it's only a few blocks from the st Charles streetcar, as Doc suggests, which is a nice ride, or there are busses on Magazine.

One thing to remember is that the distances we're talking about are not as daunting as they might look on a map. Hansen's isn't WAY out in the middle of nowhere. And you don't want to spend all your time in the Quarter.

[TAPrice]

Did not realize how close it was to the streetcar line.  Will certainly make it a point to get out there then.

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I wouldn't consider it close. About 10 blocks. Not a terrible walk, although it will probably be hot as hell and twice as humid.

By the time you get to Hansen's, though, you'll have earned that snowball.

[BryanZ]

Am I reading this transit map incorrectly or is the Tchoupitoulas St. streetcar line right there?

[BrooksNYC]

Not a streetcar. The #10 bus runs up Tchoupitoulas.

The city has three streetcars:

- The St. Charles Avenue line (Route 12) runs the length of St. Charles Avenue from Canal Street to Carrollton Avenue.

- The Canal Street cars travel the length of Canal Street. (Route 47 ends at Carrollton Avenue and Route 48 goes all the way to City Park). NOTE: If Canal Street is still undergoing track repairs, buses will cover the routes.

- The Riverfront Line (Route 2). Runs along the river between Esplanade Avenue and Thalia Street.

Streetcars and buses are $1.25 — exact change.

Route, schedule, and system maps from the N.O. Regional Transit Authority: http://www.norta.com/routes/index.php

Napoleon House. Is this place worth going to?

The reason to go to Napoleon House is atmosphere. It's old, old New Orleans, and if you go when it's not busy, it's a blissfully mellow antidote to French Quarter "woo-hoo!" bars. I like weekdays, mid-to-late afternoon after the lunch crowds have left. The Pimm's Cup is pleasant, but very light — more thirst-quencher than cocktail.

Are jackets seriously the norm even in the summer at Galatoire's and Commander's Palace?

The dress code at Commander's and Galatoire's is business casual. Galatoire's requires a jacket after 5:00 p.m. and all day Sunday. Commander's is a little looser, I think, but you may want to phone ahead to confirm. No shorts at either place.

Nowadays, oysters are served year-round. That being said, I like Gulf oysters best during the winter months. They're plumper and more flavorful.

Music listings: http://offbeat.com/listings/clubs.php

Edited August 16, 2009 by BrooksNYC (log)

[MikeHartnett]

-At the likes of August, MiLa, Herbsaint, how are they about diners just ordering a couple starters in the dining room?  I'm not sure I want to commit to a full meal at any of these pricier spots and might want to visit a couple on a night.  Is this frowned upon?

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At this time of year, I'd guess they would be happy with you showing up. As long as it isn't 7 p.m. on Saturday night, I think you'll be ok.

[mattohara]

We went to MiLa and just had 4 apps, I think., in the dining room. The place was almost empty so we didn't feel bad. Had a great foie dish. Chris M. was not around. :\

Agreed with the above about Napoleon House. If you're in the area and want a refreshing thirst quencher stop by. We like ours with ginger ale, not 7up though.

Didn't chef Link open up a charcuterie place?

[philadining]

Didn't chef Link open up a charcuterie place?

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Cochon Butcher is right around the corner from Cochon, I'm not sure, they might even be connected internally. They offer meats and some prepared food to go, and have a few tables and a small bar when you can order casual stuff, like sandwiches and charcuterie.

We liked it pretty well, but wouldn't trade it for a meal at Cochon. I'd go back in addition to a trip the the main restaurant...

[BryanZ]

Just walked in the door after my first visit to New Orleans and quite enjoyed myself. I'm now headed out the door for a quick trip to SF, but I'll post a full report sometime next week. Like any trip, some definite surprises, a couple disappointments, and not quite enough stomach space.