NoMi - Chicago

[cabrales]

Lady T, jordyn, a friend of his and I lunched at NoMI on Saturday. I appreciated Lady T's spending time with us, and enjoyed discussing her non-culinary interests. Sandro Gamba offered a meal that was good-minus, but that would have been better had over-salting not affected some dishes. The lunch was my first sampling of Gamba's cuisine, so it is premature to make an informed assessment. The composition of some dishes was appropriate, and Gamba does not appear to adhere closely to the Ducasse approach which I subjectively dislike.

As jordyn's friend has our party's menus, "official" dish names have not been included. The restaurant accommodated my request for 1/2 portions of appetizers and entrees, to enable me to sample more dishes. I did not take dessert as I was quasi-resting up for dinner at Trotter's kitchen table that evening (write-up to come).

(1) 1/2 Carpaccio of American Sturgeon.

This dish had good visual effects, consisting of 4-5 thin slivers of cured, quasi-translucent sturgeon flesh. The pieces were presented on a square-shaped platter. The flesh has a nice elasticity to it, from the curing, but already contained some saltiness (presumaby from the same process). As a result, the additional saltiness in the herbed oil saucing (orangish in color) pushed this dish towards being significantly oversalted. Note oversalting is a complaint I have had in the context of a number of restaurants. A row of diced sundried tomatoes and chives was appropriate.

(2) 1/2 Mussel Cappuccino Veloute with Cumin

This was my preferred dish of the meal, despite, again, oversalting of the thin (in a good way) soup that lay beneath the appropriate amount of "froth". Interestingly, the effect on the nose and the initial dominant effects in the mouth, of the soup was of foie gras Lady T ordered the same dish in full size, and concurred. The foie gras taste was appealing, with the mussels inside the soup and the later limited tastes of mussels being nice as well. If the veloute had been salted less, it would have been quite attractive. It was interesting that cumin never expressed itself as a separate taste in this dish.

To the side of the little copper serving container for this veloute were mussels sitting in their shell, above a mix of diced green/yellow/red peppers and carrots. The vegetables added crunchiness, but they appeared to me unnecessary.

(3) 1/2 Braised Chicken with cous cous

This dish was below average, because the jus-based saucing was almost (but not actually) slightly congealed when the dish arrived at our table. The saucing had been allowed to cool inappropriately. I found the chicken meat itself not bad, but the saucing to be a signficant distraction. The largish beads of cous cous (tasting like firm tapioca) might have been Israeli cous cous. They were sitting in a cup fashioned from zucchini.

(4) 1/2 Salmon Risotto with Black Raisins

Given Gamba's reputation for offering good risotto, I had to order this dish. The risotto was nicely prepared, with an integration of Parmesan (appropriately subdued) into the cream and butter that enveloped the rice. However, for me, the raisins added slightly more sweetness than ideal. The salmon piece was relatively small, even for a 1/2 portion, but was appropriately prepared.

Lady T wisely chose a Mersault Joseph Matrot, 1999, at $69. There were a number of reasonably priced bottles that we could have chosen. Upon entering the restaurant, one passes by a dark-wood, nicely decorated room that stores some of the restaurant's wine. This restaurant appears to pride itself on its wine list.

On Brink of Key Chef Change

We were advised by one of the dining room team members that Sandro Gamba is leaving NoMI (presumably, permanently) to start up a new restaurant at another Park Hyatt on the West Coast (?). The chef's replacement has not been determined.

NoMI also recently changed pastry chefs.

Decor; Miscellaneous

The decor is modern, with chocolate browns and a great deal of cream/white. Round-shaped lamps with dangling blush-colored crystals hang along the portion of the restaurant's main room that is closer to the very small kitchen area that was partially obscured, but partially visiable. That area was so small that our group decided it could have been utilized only for finishing off dishes, and appeared to be more for show than for operational convenience. The main room of the restaurant has slanted glass and offers a nice view. One has the sense of space and air and light when dining in the day under decent weather conditions. Our table was in this "front" row. The ceilings are high, and along the ceiling above the front row was a large, white-colored modern art sculpture with large twisted "strand" effects (somewhat like worms, coral pieces or certain depictions of genomes).

NoMI had a terrace, adjacent to the restaurant, that appeared to have been serving simpler fare. I did not have time to peruse the menu available at the terrace.

Visit to Art Institute of Chicago

After lunch, Lady T and the NY group visited the Art Institute of Chicago. The museum was stronger than I had contemplated, with a nice selection of Monets (including at least five versions of paintings depicting a stack of wheat) and a key Seurat whose name I do not recollect and which reminded me of The Bathers (seen at the National Gallery and also depicting a scene by a river). Ironically for me, I saw one of the individual Burghers of Calais sculptures by Rodin at the Art Institute. During the past three weeks, I had seen some version of the Burghers of Calais rendition in three different venues. Just goes to prove that traveling for food can yield a number of ancillary benefits.

[awbrig]

i think NoMi is overrated and over priced myself altho the Park Hyatt is beautiful!

post the pics!

[Lady T]

Just to add a touch of detail:

The major Seurat we saw was 'La Grande Jatte' -- for Sondheim fans, that's the one which inspired the musical "Sunday in the Park with George". The Art Institute also owns one or two detail studies for that same painting, along with the rest of (brag, brag, brag...!) the stronger-than-most Impressionist collection. Caught 'American Gothic' too; not a lot of people from out of town seem to know that that one is part of the Art Institute's collection.

We also paused at the Chagall 'America Windows', backgrounded in a blue which Cabrales compared to that in the stained glass at Rheims Cathedral. We didn't get a chance to check out a Warhol Mao portrait visible at the far end of a side gallery (it was near closing time, and the AIC enforcers are [hmph!] emphatic about getting civilians out of the galleries promptly), but what the heck -- there'll be another visit soon, yes?

It's always a delight to meet other eGulletarians, and showing you folks around my home town a tiny bit was a hoot. Ahhh, but Cabrales: GOT to get you over to Sam's Wines and Liquors next time, if you're so inclined. All that French wine, all sorts of samples available, and some of it at wholesale prices!

To answer a question for Jordyn: the "spaceship" skyscraper you noticed just north of Millenium Park is what some people refer to as "Pru Two" -- the building where, I understand, Prudential Insurance actually has its Chicago offices these days, rather than in the more clearly labelled, and more historically recognized, Prudential Building just south of it.

[cabrales]

I noticed a new user with the name "NoMI" on the members list. The sign-up date is today. Why would a member choose the name NoMI, unless he were affiliated with the restaurant? Perhaps it's the member's preferred restaurant?

NoMI -- Any thoughts, if you are comfortable posting?

[awbrig]

hey cab...

trivia question...you know what nomi stands for? (easy)

[cabrales]

North of Michigan Avenue.

[NoMI]

Hello! I am a first time user who works at NoMI. I became a new user yesterday after reading cabrales posting.

I signed on because I wanted to clarify that executive chef Sandro Gamba is not leaving NoMI. Roberto Alicea, one of his sous chef's, has recently taken the post as executive chef at the Park Hyatt in Los Angeles.

I hope that clears up any confusion and will look forward to continuing to read your postings.

[Lady T]

Many welcomes, NoMI, and thanks for the clarification. Much success to Chef Alicea in his new position, too.

[awbrig]

NOrth MIchigan (avenue)

[cabrales]

Welcome, NoMI To provide a bit of context, I rarely accord a meal a "very good" assessment, so good-minus with a caveat that my conclusion would have been more favorable absent the oversalting is not a poor evaluation.

[Aurora]

Just to add a touch of detail:

The major Seurat we saw was 'La Grande Jatte' -- for Sondheim fans, that's the one which inspired the musical "Sunday in the Park with George".  The Art Institute also owns one or two detail studies for that same painting, along with the rest of (brag, brag, brag...!) the stronger-than-most  Impressionist collection.  Caught 'American Gothic'  too; not a lot of people from out of town seem to know that that one is part of the Art Institute's collection.

We also paused at the Chagall 'America Windows',  backgrounded in a blue which Cabrales compared to that in the stained glass at Rheims Cathedral.  We didn't get a chance to check out a Warhol Mao portrait visible at the far end of a side gallery (it was near closing time, and the AIC enforcers are [hmph!] emphatic about getting civilians out of the galleries promptly), but what the heck -- there'll be another visit soon, yes?

It's always a delight to meet other eGulletarians, and showing you folks around my home town a tiny bit was a hoot.  Ahhh, but Cabrales: GOT to get you over to Sam's Wines and Liquors next time, if you're so inclined.  All that French wine, all sorts of samples available, and some of it at wholesale prices!

To answer a question for Jordyn:  the "spaceship" skyscraper you noticed just north of Millenium Park is what some people refer to as "Pru Two" -- the building where, I understand, Prudential Insurance actually has its Chicago offices these days, rather than in the more clearly labelled, and more historically recognized,  Prudential Building just south of it.

Welcome NoMI!

Having some familiarity with Cabrales's system, good minus is highly favorable.

Cabrales, thank you yet again for a wonderful report.

Aw nuts! I cannot begin to tell you how disappointed I am that I couldn't make it, and now we have one of NoMI's brigade among us. Still, it was good that I didn't get out of the trip. It was important to have gone, and it turned out to be a big plus! Interesting time, indeed (found myself at a clam bake). No phenominal dining, but my mother and I enjoyed wonderful meals prepared by family friends, among them a vicar and her husbnad who is blessed with inspired culinary skills.

AND you went to the Art Institute? Did you get to see the Degas studies (they are not far from the Seurat)? Nighthawks (Hopper) is in another wing, kinda around the corner.

So much Matisse, so little time.

[Jinmyo]

If I received a so-so minus from cabrales I would blush to my toes.

[cabrales]

If I received a so-so minus from cabrales I would blush to my toes.

Jinmyo -- Now you're making me blush.

[cabrales]

Here are some links to descriptions of the blue Chagall windows at Rheims:

http://www.gen.umn.edu/faculty_staff/yahnk...ss/cross-1b.htm

http://www.cathedrale-reims.com/vitraux3.html

[Ed Hamilton]

I certainly wish I had known that some egulleteers were in Chicago, I would love to have met you. Unfortunately I'm leaving the windy city before it gets cold, Oct 16. It's great reading about other points of interest in one of the best cities in the world, in the summer.

[Lady T]

Darn! Wish we'd all known you were Chicago-based in the summer!

Ahhh well, there's next spring when you come back north (unless some dagburn hurricane washes you back up the Mississippi sooner -- they seem to be more vicious than usual this year). Let us know when you're back, and in the meantime please keep in touch through the winter!

[Ed Hamilton]

Actually there won't be any hurricanes washing me up the Mississippi, I leave the boat in Trinidad which is south of the hurricane belt. These storms aren't really any worse than what we see in the islands, the difference is that when a storm is going to hit the US mainland Dan Rather takes the early flight to what is predicted to be the worst hit area. There have been a lot of hurricanes that most people, unless they were in the Caribbean, never heard of, Luis, Marilyn, George, Gilbert and David to name a few.

I have to admit not seeing much of this forum since I've been so busy this summer but I've still got two weeks.

[awbrig]

where ru in Chicago and where do you like to eat here?

[Ed Hamilton]

I'm holed up near Dearborn and North for the summer. Unfortunately I have to travel on business and get my fill of restaurant fare so when I'm here I'd rather enjoy a good pizza with wine at home than deal with the crowds and the time constraints of dining out.

Good Thai food always gets my attention but since I spent 5 years in Asia, I'm not easy to please with Asian food. Pizza doesn't exist in the Caribbean, so that's always high on the list.

I have a lot of friends in Chicago and a coule of times a month we meet at someones house for dinner so we can spend hours drinking and eating without breaking the budget. Only a few of us are gourmet cooks, not me, but we all enjoy good food, good wine and good company. And of course good rum.

[guajolote]

Went to NOMI on Monday with my parents and sister (I should have brought them to Opera with you - what a fantastic meal!)

I was very impressed, especially with the decor. I think it may have been the most beautiful dining room I've ever been in. We had a corner table by the big windows.

For starters I had a glass of Champagne. The waiter brought a glass made by some small producer (sorry I forgot the name) and let me taste it before pouring the whole glass.

For an appetizer I had Sweetbread salad with Belgian endive, roasted apple, and black truffle potatoe puree. The sweetbreads were cut into small pieces and crusty. The puree was very buttery and had a strong truffle aroma.

My entree was muscovy duck. The breast was served medium rare with a nice crunchy skin. The confit was shredded and served inside a black pepper crepe, kind of peking duck style. This dish was served on top of a Italian parsley sauce which I think had kaffir lime leaves, and persimmos. I loved this but my Dad's venison was better.

For dessert I had the cheese plate, 3 goat cheeses with an apple puree (OK, it was applesauce). I enjoyed all of the three, one was soft, one was hard and the third was a blue goat cheese.

The sommelier was very friendly and knowledgable. She (is this becoming a Chicago thing with the women sommeliers - if it is, I like it) recommended a 1998 Pur Sang (Loire Sauvignon Blanc) and a 1997 Abadia Retuerta Cuvee El Campanario. Both wines completed the meal. The Pur Sang was one of the best white wines I've ever had. With the cheese I had a Graham's 1977 Port.

I would rate this as one of my favorite Chicago restaurants, up there with Seasons, the Dining Room, and Charlie Trotters.

[mikeczyz]

cabrales

in your post about NoMI, you refer to the 'ducasse approach.' to you, what is the 'ducasse approach?' do any of his protege's practice this approach? gras? portay? are there any other students of significance practicing their craft in the u.s.?

mike

[Sun Grease]

Hi, has anyone ever dined or worked at NoMi? What was your experiences and opinions? It is next on my list of places that I want to dine at.

Thanks

Edited May 22, 2003 by Sun Grease (log)

[Lady T]

Move it to the top of your list. Chef Gamba rocks, and the only thing cooler than the view from a table by the windows during the day would be the view from a table by the windows at night!

[guajolote]

I agree with Lady T. And welcome, Sun Grease.

[Sun Grease]

Thank you for the welcome quajaolote and I also thank you along with Lady T and awbrig for the posts.