TN: Good drinks

[Florida Jim]

2006 Bodegas Abad, Godello Dom Bueno:

Day one: Although varietally correct, this is sharp, resinous and a touch too bitter for me. Re-cork and try again.

Day two: more flesh and flavor but still bitter. Re-cork and try again.

Day three: about the same and just too sour for me.

13% alcohol, imported by Frontier Wines and about $10; no thanks.

Tomato, mozzarella and caper salad:

2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées VV:

Lovely, as always and good with the dish but gave the impression it was starting to close down. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $13; more than worth it.

Salmon cakes with rice, peas and mushrooms:

1998 Lafarge, Bourgogne:

Still a pretty grippy little wine but the fruit has more flesh then on release and the length is better. Good with the dish. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $15 on sale; I’d buy it again.

Vegetarian chili and salad:

2004 Puffeney, Arbois Trousseau Cuvée Les Bérangères:

Decanted one hour; smells of cherries, raspberries and earth; light-bodied but not thin with flavors that follow the nose, good grip and a long, slightly drying finish. The tannic grip melts away with the food and the flavors become more nuanced over time. A character driven wine and another compelling reason to try more wines from the Jura. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal and about $28; worth it.

Leftover vegetarian chili:

2005 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Bassetti Vnyd.:

Blueberry, blackberry and spice notes right up front – then some black pepper, garrique, fresh meat and red fruit accents – expressive, alluring and of a piece; much the same in the mouth with a supple mouth feel, grip, good acidity, concentration, intensity and all in perfect harmony – swish it around in your mouth and there is not one rough edge – as beautifully integrated a young wine as I have encountered, perfectly balanced; long, expansive finish. Grand Cru quality and reminiscent of a ripe, young Hermitage; underlying power, both savory and sweet, yet grace and harmony before all else and not a hint of wood anywhere. I should live so long as to craft a wine like this and as good a syrah as the leftcoast makes. Has years ahead of it in the cellar and will take awhile to start showing its complexity; thankfully, I bought a case and will be able to follow it for several of those. 14.2% alcohol and about $45 on release; in today’s market, worth triple that.

Oh my!

Best, Jim