Gourmet - annual restaurants issue

[Wilfrid]

This came thudding out of the mailbox yesterday, with a Mario Batali mugshot on the cover. Big fat thing - the magazine, I mean, of course.

In a change from previous years, the best restaurant listing has become a pull out booklet - "Gourmet Guide to America's Best Restaurants". Since last year's issue is in the closed stacks of my library up in the Bronx, I can't make a direct comparison right now, but it seems a much less numerous collection of restaurants than usual. It is ordered by city, as ever, with one "business" restaurant, one "buzz", a "favorite" spot and a bunch of "neighborhood" places. No editorial information in the booklet (maybe it's hidden somewhere in the magazine) about selection procedures, but is there ever?

New York is respresented by ADNY as a "favorite" and Babbo as the "buzz". Not unreasonable, although the comment that ADNY's kitchen is "uneven" is a heck of sideswipe considering the cost. The choice of "business" restaurant is truly creepy - the Four Seasons. What do these guys have going on? - a Wine Spectator cover last year, and now leading off the Gourmet selection of best New York restaurants. Hocus pocus. Cafe Boulud, Washington Park and Pearl Oyster Bar are neighborhood places, which says a lot about New York neighborhoods.

Elsewhere, the trend I detect, which I think is authentic, is a downgrading of more traditional places, offering conservative versions of Franco-American haute cuisine (along with white tablecloths and formal service), in favor of brasher, simpler joints with modern design and a higher degree of casualness. Rover's in Seattle is out, as is Goodfellow's in Minneapolis. le Bec Fin survives, however.

The city-based concept is bad news for any great restaurant which is the only one in town, as well as for any restaurants out of town altogether. Unless my reading is letting me down, which is possible, the French Laundry is nowhere to be found.

Other oddities: I wouldn't say Norman's in Coral Gables was a neighborhood place - more a destination restaurant. And the New Orleans selection is off the wall - nowhere obvious (no Bayona, no Windsor Castle, no Commander's Palace, no Emeril outlets); indeed, nowhere I've ever heard of! And some might feel that certain cities shouldn't have been overlooked entirely - Dallas, Kansas City, for instance.

Oh well, browse and enjoy. Is it online? I don't know, I am not here to spoonfeed you.

[Liza]

I'm awaiting my copy but sit here ready to be shocked and stunned yet again. Will put my pre-opinions away for the moment. Thanks for the tip, Wilfrid.

[awbrig]

what about CHicago?

[Wilfrid]

Chicago - Charlie Trotter made it, so not too radical.

[Liza]

So they're making the brave decisions that need to be made, going out there and finding restaurants we readers haven't thought of.

[aaustin]

Want the Seattle restaurants...my mag hasn't reached me yet.

[hollywood]

So, French Laundry goes from #3 last year to off the list this year?

[hollywood]

Since last year's issue is in the closed stacks of my library up in the Bronx, I can't make a direct comparison right now, but it seems a much less numerous collection of restaurants than usual.  It is ordered by city, as ever, with one "business" restaurant, one "buzz", a "favorite" spot and a bunch of "neighborhood" places.  No editorial information in the booklet (maybe it's hidden somewhere in the magazine) about selection procedures, but is there ever?

Here's last year's list. It's still online.

http://eat.epicurious.com/gourmet/restaurant_reviews/

[Ron Johnson]

Wilfrid, who made the list for New Orleans? Apparently Cuvee, August, and Herbsaint are the hot places now.

[Wilfrid]

You'll all forgive me if I don't copy type the results. Cuvee made it. Rest of you can take a peek on the newstand if you don't subscribe.

[Lesley C]

I do subscribe, but the mag always arrives halfway through the month.

Just one small question please. Did they include any Canadian restaurants this year?

They used to cover Montreal and Toronto --and once upon a time, Vancouver -- but dropped all three last year.

[Ron Johnson]

You'll all forgive me if I don't copy type the results.  Cuvee made it.  Rest of you can take a peek on the newstand if you don't subscribe.

Yes of course, it would take you hours to re-type the entire text of that issue, especially if you included the ads.

[Wilfrid]

Sorry, Lesley, no.

[ngatti]

The choice of "business" restaurant is truly creepy - the Four Seasons.  What do these guys have going on? - a Wine Spectator cover last year, and now leading off the Gourmet selection of best New York restaurants.  Hocus pocus.

Wilfred this is the only part of your post that ifeel qualified to post a reply to.

It is a very clubby place, especially for lunch, where favorites are recognized and coddled (leastwise it was so when I worked there). Moreover the Grill Room has always been a sort of private club for the publishing and media moguls, no? Could this have something to do with it?

Kinda like Conde Nast maybe not wanting to diss it's own hangout?

Just a thought

Nick

[Steve Klc]

Wilfrid doesn't have the time, understandably, but is someone else with the magazine willing to parse the lists and post them here? Even if it were a few cities at a time or regionally--many eGulleteers would be grateful for your effort.

[Liza]

Atlanta:

Business: Bone's

Buzz: Joel

Personal Favorite: Seeger's

Neighborhood Gems: Oscar's; Soto; Watershed; Bacchanalia

Boston

Business: Clio's

Buzz: Via Matta

Personal Favorite: Hamersley's Bistro

Neighborhood Gems: Franklin Cafe; Sage;Lumiere; The Blue Room; Oleana

Chicago

Business: Charlie Trotter's

Buzz: Naha

Personal Favorite: North Pond

Neighborhood Gems: Piazza Bella Trattoria; Spring; The Outpost; La Sardine

Cleveland

Business: One Walnut

Buzz: Fire

Personal Favorite: Parker's

Neighborhood Gems: Baricelli inn; Fahrenheit; Lelolai; Sokolowski's University Inn

Detroit

Business: Tribute

Buzz: Agave

Personal Favorite: Emily's

Neighborhood Gems: Five Lakes Grill; Giovanni's Ristorante; Luigi's The Original; Vintage Bistro

Honolulu

Business: La Mer

Buzz: Alan Wong's

Personal Favorite: Chef Mavro

Neighborhood Gems: Roy's; Izakaya Nonbei; Sam Choy's breakfast, lunch and crab; Side Street Inn

Houston

Business: Aries

Buzz: Laurier Cafe & Wine

Personal Favorite :Da Marco

Neighborhood Gems: Indika; Mockingbird Bistro; Irma's; Jax Grill

Las Vegas

Business: Spago

Buzz: N9NE

Personal Favorite: Commander's Palace

Neighborhood Gems: Lotus of Siam; La Scala; Rosemary's Restaurant; Genki

Los Angeles

Business: Alex

Buzz: Angelini Osteria

Personal Favorite: Campanile

Neighborhood Gems: Mimosa: Josie; Cafe Blanc; The House

Miami

Business: Azul

Buzz: Tambo

Personal Favorite: Pacific Time

Neighborhood Gems: Abbey Dining Room; Anokha; Norman's; Pascal's on Ponce

Minneapolis & St. Paul

Business: Cafe Un Deux Trois

Buzz: Vincent

Personal Fave: Aquavit

Neighborhood Gems: Lucia's Rest. & Wine Bar; Zander Cafe; Alma; Auriga

New Orleans

Business: Cuvee

Buzz: Lee Circle

Personal Fave: Mosca's

Neighborhood Gems: Casamento's; Elizabeth's; Domilise's; Dick & Jenny's

New York

Business: Four Seasons

Buzz: Babbo

Personal Fave: Alain Ducasse at Essex House

Neighborhood Gems: Pearl Oyster Bar; Cafe Boulud; Washington Park; Honmura An

Philadelphia

Business: Le Bec Fin

Buzz: Morimoto

Personal Fave: Vetri's

Neighborhood Gems: Tony Luke's; Django; Alma de Cuba; Standard Tap

Phoenix & Scottsdale

Business: Mary Elaine's

Buzz: Elements

Personal Fave: Rancho Pinot

Neighborhood Gems: Los Dos Molinos; Pizzeria Bianco; Christopher's Fermier Brasserie; Postino

Portland OR

Business: The Heathman Restaurant

Buzz: Bluehour

Personal Fave: Higgins

Neighborhood Gems: Laslow's Northwest; Cafe Azul; Pho Van Vietnamese Bistro

San Francisco

Business: Fifth Floor

Buzz: Roxanne's

Personal Fave: Masa's

Neighborhood Gems: Hayes Street Grill; The Meetinghouse; Merenda; Delfina

Santa Fe

Business: The Compound

Buzz: Standard Market

Personal Fave: Cafe Pasqual

Neighborhood Gems: Cafe San Estevan

Seattle

Business: 727 Pine

Buzz: The Oceanaire Seafood Room

Personal Fave: The Georgian

Neighborhood Gems: Le Pichet ; Le Gourmand; The Harvest Vine; Salumi

St. Louis

Business: Anthony's Bar

Buzz: Modesto

Personal Fave: The Crossing

Neighborhood Gems: Paul Manno's; Gian-Tony's

Washington DC

Business: Michel Richard Citronelle

Buzz: Palena

Personal Fave: The Inn at Little Washington

Neighborhood Gems: Colvin Runn Tavern; Jaleo; Johnny's Half Shell; The Majestic Cafe

[hollywood]

Re the LA picks, the Los Angeles Weekly runs a listing of favorites chosen by Jonathan Gold and Michelle Huneven (see link). All of these same spots are in the listing except Cafe Blanc. Gold did the writeup on Campanile only. All the others were discussed by Huneven. It seems to be his function to look for lower priced and ethnic gems a la Counter Intelligence. Nonetheless, a surprising congruence.

http://www.laweekly.com/food/totallist.php

[Rachel Perlow]

So, French Laundry goes from #3 last year to off the list this year?

Uh, it's still at #3.

[awbrig]

They had the NYC Four Seasons people and many of the popular dishes on CNBC about an hour ago...and in the next hour they will have restaurants from Wash D.C.

[Wilfrid]

Where, Rachel? I'm sure it's my fault, but I just can't see it.

[Liza]

Where's my Egullet Gold Star?

[hollywood]

Where's my Egullet Gold Star? 

Have you been watching Friends? Kidding aside, thanks for the listing. Do you know what Rachel's talking about insofar as French Laundry being on the list? Is she reading last year's list?

[tommy]

Do you know what Rachel's talking about insofar as French Laundry being on the list?  Is she reading last year's list?

allow me to answer: maybe.

[awbrig]

Alex Scrimgeour from Alex Restaurant in Los Angeles was just on CNBC for an interesting interview along with showcasing a few af his fantastic dishes. He also talked about the changing cuisine of California...very good interview...stay tuned to CNBC today for more interviews w the top chefs of the top business restaurants as seen from this Gourmet article....

[Wilfrid]

Yeah, come on Rachel, what are you doing?