Hill Country

[Nathan]

you know, I've eaten here twice recently (including last night) and they really haven't missed a beat...if anything the execution is more consistent now.

I've finally decided the beef ribs just aren't worth bothering with. not bad, but not great. however, the chicken (not just the beer can game hen) puts most $40 chickens at NY restaurants to shame.

and that moist (fatty) brisket is a work of art.

[weinoo]

Kinsey and I ate here recently, and that moist brisket was pretty amazing. As Sam put it, brisket custard.

[Purple Pirate]

I went on Monday night with four other people to celebrate a birthday.

We took advantage of the Monday night Recession Supper. Every Monday night from 5-10pm for $25 per person it is all you can eat. Everybody at the table must particpate.

Here are the sides you can choose from: Sweet Potato Bourbon Mash, Green Bean Casserole, White Shoepeg Corn Pudding, Hot German Potatoes, Beer Braised Cowboy Pinto Beans, Skill Cornbread with Ancho Honey Butter, Confetti Cole Slaw, Cool as a Cucumber Salad, Texas Black-Eyed Caviar and Smokey Chipotle Deviled Eggs.

For $2 extra per item you can also get Longhorn Cheddar Mac and Cheese, Texas Bowl of Red (Chili), and Campfire Baked Beans.

Of course you also get the meat: Brisket, Pork Ribs and Barbecued Chicken.

Unlimited fountain drinks too!

This was a fantastic way for us to try everything! I had never been before and was able to sample as much as I like without having to deal with any of the aforementioned long lines because it is 100% waiter/waitress service.

The standout items were the brisket, barbecue chicken, skillet cornbread, deviled eggs, cucumber salad, mac and cheese, and the corn pudding.

For dessert, which wasn't part of the special deal, we had some Blue Bell ice cream, banana pudding and a complimentary red velvet cupcake for the birthday boy!

The banana pudding was the standout dessert!

We had a fantastic time!

[cchen]

if they have the short rib special, you absolutely have to get it. Just be warned, it is huge and comes on the bone. The smallest sized one they had was about 1.25 lb.

[oakapple]

Cutlets had a commentary on the all-you-can-eat at H.C. He feels that the deal steers you away from the best things (e.g., the moist brisket), and it's not such a great deal anyway, because hardly anyone can eat more than $25 worth of H.C. food in one sitting.

[BryanZ]

For barbecue connoisseurs this is probably the case, but as a business decision it makes sense. For one, the promotion has gotten them a lot of press over the past couple weeks on the blogs and message boards. Furthermore, it's a way to get butts in seats, if only for the marketing power that the phrase "all-you-can-eat" holds. On the consumer side, it's another option and that's a cool thing. It also might encourage casual customers to visit intending to pig out only to find out that they actually like high-level barbecue.

[Jaymes]

Kreuz is fairly expensive, especially considering where it is.  For another frame of reference, Goode Company, which is arguably the best place in Houston, albeit not as good as Kreuz charges 7.95 for brisket, the flagship meat of Texas barbecue.  Hill Country charges a bit more than double for lean brisket, and around 2 1/3 times more for fatty brisket.  How large are the sides at Hill Country?  At Goode it's 6.25 for a quart, which I assume is right around the size of Hill Country's "Feed Yer Family" portions selling at 14 to 16 bucks.  Most likely, a dinner at Hill Country would come out approximately double what a dinner at Goode Company would cost, if not more.

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Just as an aside, Goode Co. is not "arguably the best place in Houston." In fact, it's legitimately "arguably" the worst place in Houston. It's consistently rated at the bottom of most guides, and recently came in DAL (dead-ass last) at a Chowhound BBQ smackdown.

It's awful.

But like I said, just an aside...

Carry on.

[oakapple]

For barbecue connoisseurs this is probably the case, but as a business decision it makes sense.  For one, the promotion has gotten them a lot of press over the past couple weeks on the blogs and message boards.  Furthermore, it's a way to get butts in seats, if only for the marketing power that the phrase "all-you-can-eat" holds.  On the consumer side, it's another option and that's a cool thing.  It also might encourage casual customers to visit intending to pig out only to find out that they actually like high-level barbecue.

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I have no doubt that this was their intention, and I respect any legitimate effort by restaurants to get more butts in seats. On the other hand, those familiar with the restaurant ought to point out that some "deals" aren't really a deal, and this is one of them.

[Purple Pirate]

For barbecue connoisseurs this is probably the case, but as a business decision it makes sense.  For one, the promotion has gotten them a lot of press over the past couple weeks on the blogs and message boards.  Furthermore, it's a way to get butts in seats, if only for the marketing power that the phrase "all-you-can-eat" holds.  On the consumer side, it's another option and that's a cool thing.  It also might encourage casual customers to visit intending to pig out only to find out that they actually like high-level barbecue.

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It was my first time at Hill Country and it was a great way for me to sample every single side dish that they offer.

The initial group of meat that they brought out did contain some of the moist/fatty brisket. Subsequently, when we asked for more brisket it contained some moist/fatty brisket as well.

[weinoo]

The initial group of meat that they brought out did contain some of the moist/fatty brisket.  Subsequently, when we asked for more brisket it contained some moist/fatty brisket as well.

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I'm guessng they're going to give you whatever they have a lot of...may even be a good way to use up what might not have been sold on Sunday night, which is another good business decision for them.

[slkinsey]

Kreuz is fairly expensive, especially considering where it is.  For another frame of reference, Goode Company, which is arguably the best place in Houston, albeit not as good as Kreuz charges 7.95 for brisket, the flagship meat of Texas barbecue.  Hill Country charges a bit more than double for lean brisket, and around 2 1/3 times more for fatty brisket.  How large are the sides at Hill Country?  At Goode it's 6.25 for a quart, which I assume is right around the size of Hill Country's "Feed Yer Family" portions selling at 14 to 16 bucks.  Most likely, a dinner at Hill Country would come out approximately double what a dinner at Goode Company would cost, if not more.

Just as an aside, Goode Co. is not "arguably the best place in Houston." In fact, it's legitimately "arguably" the worst place in Houston. It's consistently rated at the bottom of most guides, and recently came in DAL (dead-ass last) at a Chowhound BBQ smackdown.

It's awful.

But like I said, just an aside...

Carry on.

LOL. Well, thanks for coming back around to "put me in my place" about an 18 month-old post! Just like NYC pizza or any other iconic regional food, there are bound to be fierce debates. This would be why I used the word "arguably." I would never compare Goode Co. to any of the truly outstanding Texas barbecue places. Suffice it to say, however, that once can find plenty of opinions both online and in print recommending Goode as one of the best places in town (Robb Walsh here for example). But, really, who cares? That wasn't the point.

[Jaymes]

Kreuz is fairly expensive, especially considering where it is.  For another frame of reference, Goode Company, which is arguably the best place in Houston, albeit not as good as Kreuz charges 7.95 for brisket, the flagship meat of Texas barbecue.  Hill Country charges a bit more than double for lean brisket, and around 2 1/3 times more for fatty brisket.  How large are the sides at Hill Country?  At Goode it's 6.25 for a quart, which I assume is right around the size of Hill Country's "Feed Yer Family" portions selling at 14 to 16 bucks.  Most likely, a dinner at Hill Country would come out approximately double what a dinner at Goode Company would cost, if not more.

Just as an aside, Goode Co. is not "arguably the best place in Houston." In fact, it's legitimately "arguably" the worst place in Houston. It's consistently rated at the bottom of most guides, and recently came in DAL (dead-ass last) at a Chowhound BBQ smackdown.

It's awful.

But like I said, just an aside...

Carry on.

LOL. Well, thanks for coming back around to "put me in my place" about an 18 month-old post! Just like NYC pizza or any other iconic regional food, there are bound to be fierce debates. This would be why I used the word "arguably." I would never compare Goode Co. to any of the truly outstanding Texas barbecue places. Suffice it to say, however, that once can find plenty of opinions both online and in print recommending Goode as one of the best places in town (Robb Walsh here for example). But, really, who cares? That wasn't the point.

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Well, guess I should have noticed the date.

My problem is that I have moved to Houston from Austin, and went to Goode's, and was utterly gobsmacked at how bad it is. And it isn't just me... I was with several native Texans, none of whom had ever been there, and we couldn't get over it. In fact, we had an Aggie and a Tea-sipper (A&M, and UT) with us and the only thing they agreed upon all night was how awful that barbecue was. We had a LOT of leftovers on the table and nobody even wanted to take it home.

And now, I hate thinking that folks will come to Houston and try that stuff and think they've had great "Texas barbecue." So it seems I suddenly find myself on a mission.

But you're right...had I noticed the date on your post, I wouldn't have responded.

[slkinsey]

To the best of my knowledge, and this is not the thread for it anyway, there is really no truly-oustanding-by-Texas-standards barbecue inside the loop in Houston.

[BryanZ]

So Hill Country has been doing this AYCE special on Monday evenings. $25 for all the pork spareribs, brisket, and chicken you can eat. And all the sides you want too, minus a few that carry a $2 supplement per order.

A few friends of mine descended upon this most excessive of recession specials, and, a full 24 hours later, I still am oozing barbecue out of my pores. That's either very attractive or incredibly disgusting, depending on your worldview.

This was my first visit to Hill Country, so I still haven't tried the sausages or the beef prime rib or spareribs. What I sampled I really enjoyed, but I wasn't blown away. My formative barbecue experiences were of the NC-style, so I'm still of the opinion that chopped whole hog or shoulder is barbecue. I can do cow, but, like, to me that's kind of missing the point.

I digress, however. Hill Country's best offering of the night was, not surprisingly, the brisket. The sauce is a nice balance of acid and sweet, but I'd prefer more heat. The type of brisket one receives in the AYCE format varies widely. At the beginning we got a mix, tending toward the lean. Our second tray, we got predominantly moist, obviously my favorite of the bunch. The third tray was very lean. Not quite dry, just not as pleasant in the mouth as the two previous batches (palate fatigue was surely setting in by this point, too).

Of the sides, the corn pudding and German potatoes were the consensus favorites. The lowpoint among these was, unquestionably, the green bean casserole. It's as white trash Americana as your worst nightmares, too soft beans in a sticky gravy of cream of so-and-so soup, topped with fried onion bits. I thought I could appreciate it. I could not. Not sure if that's a fail on my part or the restaurant's. Besides that, I enjoyed all the other sides just fine. The ancho-honey butter with the cornbread is a bit cloying, however.

The place is huge, cavernous even. Our server was fine and got us our food in a timely fashion. They ditch the meal ticket system for AYCE and instead you get a tacky wristband, like you're at an all-inclusive resort or something.

I definitely couldn't do this all the time (or ever again), but I had a very good time. It's a fun place with some pretty solid 'cue.

Edited February 25, 2009 by BryanZ (log)

[kathryn]

I don't think the lean brisket is worth the stomach space. Can you request that you only get the moist? That's what I would do.

As for the sauce, most traditional Lockhart-style BBQ enthusiasts hate sauce. I'm not surprised that Hill Country's sauce is not very good.

[oakapple]

I don't think the lean brisket is worth the stomach space. Can you request that you only get the moist? That's what I would do.

As for the sauce, most traditional Lockhart-style BBQ enthusiasts hate sauce. I'm not surprised that Hill Country's sauce is not very good.

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The published menu says that the $25 Monday special includes only the lean brisket. Apparently they throw in some of the moist brisket, but not enough of it. I really don't think the Monday special is that great a deal, because you're not getting their best stuff, and even on an ordinary day $25 worth of food is about as much as most people can eat.

I agree that this style of BBQ, by its nature, really does not require sauce and is arguably even ruined by it.

[Sneakeater]

A special at Hill Country that includes only the lean brisket isn't worth participating in.

It would be as if Luger's offered an "all you can eat" grilled salmon night.

Edited February 25, 2009 by Sneakeater (log)

[oakapple]

I paid another visit last night; ordered a mixture of the moist brisket and a beef shoulder special, plus a side of the German-fried potatoes.

They have a way of talking you into too much food. When I asked for that mixture, the guy said "half & half"? I mindlessly said yes. He meant half a pound of each. On top of that, they erred on the high side, so I got 1.26lbs of fat-laden BBQ meats. I mean, think about that. If it were a burger, it would be a freak of nature.

So I ate more than I should have, and still left quite a bit behind.

[Sneakeater]

I hope you took it home with you. (Seriously.)

[Jaymes]

I hope you took it home with you.  (Seriously.)

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No kidding. We always order extra intentionally to take some home. Makes great sandwiches.

[oakapple]

I hope you took it home with you.  (Seriously.)

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Unfortunately, I was going to the theater afterwards and didn't feel like carrying around a half-pound of BBQ for the next several hours.

[Sneakeater]

It would have made you VERY unpopular with the rest of your row.

[slkinsey]

Or, if he were willing to share, very popular.

[zoe b]

Haven't been there yet, but wanted to mention that my cuz's band plays there a couple of time a month--The CB Radios--so if you are planning a visit check them out--

and also, they love playing there because they get FED--and they say the food is pretty good--they are BBQ afficionados, too.

[BryanZ]

The interesting thing is that my friends preferred the lean. Of course, one could argue that they're dumbasses and I'd likely agree. Still, perhaps in this catering-to-the-masses setting a mixture is the right way to go.

We definitely ate more than $25/person, so in that regard it was a good value. With that said, we could've ordered a la carte, spent less, and come away totally satiated. To each their own.