TN: More wines with food

[Florida Jim]

Along with pasta with red sauce and sausages, I opened a 2004 Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo Pétalos remembering how, a year ago, it was vibrant, juicy and aromatic. Now, it’s as though the wine were a painting that the wood frame has started to eat. It still has solid flavors and is recognizable as Bierzo but the patina of oak deadens the nose and palate to the extent that I’m starting to think that aging may be a mistake. Perhaps, its only closing down (although the acid and tannins still seemed in balance) and a little more time will let it reemerge. But this is the low-end bottling and I don’t have sufficient experience with this producer to make an educated guess. A disappointment although I’m sure many folks less sensitive to oak would still enjoy it and it was adequate with the meal. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Vieux Vins, Inc. and about $16.

Diane grilled some chicken sausages served with mustard and cheese as a first and then made pasta with zucchini and parmesan; both were extremely tasty. I pulled a 1999 Texier, Côte Rôtie VV and it was a terrific match for both dishes. Its got all the typical terroir attributes; olive, smoked meat, herbs and red fruit but they are all delivered in a mélange on the nose and palate. It’s focused, stream-lined and well balanced with good cut and excellent persistence. Always one of my favorite northern Rhône wines, it’s not at peak but its still very good, and, it’s exemplary Côte Rôtie. 13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $64 full retail on release.

Chicken stir-fry for dinner with the 2004 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino was a good match. This is single-vineyard garganega that never sees wood and it is still deep, supple, very spicy/peppery and long. As a bonus, an underlying minerality keeps everything focused and together. Bright, fresh wine that is both complex and juicy. Simply terrific with the meal. 13% alcohol, imported by Palm Bay Imports and about $17.

Best, Jim