A Family Trip to Peru

[lexy]

Nothing to add except more praise for your excellent trip report - am now adding Peru to my (ever-lengthening) list of places to visit.

Does your family mind all the photo-taking? I think mine might lose patience with me pretty quickly if I took as many snaps as you must do.

[docsconz]

I don''t thnk anyone has mentioned this yet, but  I just noticed that the March issue of Saveur has an article on northern Peru called, "Ancient Hunger".  The recipes are for the following:

Yuca Hervida (Boiled yucca)

Sudado de Pescado (Huanchaco-style fish stewed in tomatoes and chiles)

Cebiche de Mero al Estilo de Huanchaco (Grouper ceviche)

Salsa de Aji Escabeche y Paico (Andean yellow chile and epazote salsa)

Pepian de Garbanzos (Chickpea porridge with chile oil)

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That is a good article. It was written by Maricel Presilla who I got to meet and a chat with a little at the CIA's World of Flavors Conference on "Spain and the World Table." Her pan-South American restaurant in Hoboken, N.J., Cucharamamama, is high on my list of restaurants I would like to dine at.

Northern Peru, which we did not get to on this trip, has more than its share of allure as well, as that article illustrates. As much as we saw and ate on this trip, there is so much more that we didn't see or eat in Peru.

[docsconz]

Nothing to add except more praise for your excellent trip report - am now adding Peru to my (ever-lengthening) list of places to visit.

Does your family mind all the photo-taking? I think mine might lose patience with me pretty quickly if I took as many snaps as you must do.

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Ha, that is a good question! I obviously do take a lot of photos, though I try to not let them get in the way of what we are doing and I try not to linger too long taking them or be too fussy about it. I think the only time on the trip that it might have been an issue was in Macchu Picchu, where I had the family pose for a number of group family shots. Those hindered our progress a little bit and required co-operation. What makes it more tolerable though is that once home, I put together books using Aperture, Apple's photo organization program and print one for each member of the family as a keepsake. At that point I think they begin to appreciate it.

[docsconz]

Cusco Market Part III

Ok, here they are. I hope they live up to whatever expectations there may be! Warning, they are not for the squeamish.

I will let the photos speak for themselves.

The beef hearts play an important role in Peruvian cuisine as they are the classic protein in anticuchos, a Peruvian grilled skewered meat dish of Afro-Peruvian origin.

[Chufi]

Although the morning (spent at Sacsayhuaman) had been beautiful, it started to rain just as we entered the covered market. Unfortunately it also got fairly dark making it more dificult for me to take the photos that I really wanted to. Nevertheless, I got a few that I could use.

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I think that these circumstances made your pictures of the indoor market exceptionally beautiful. The lighting and colors are amazing, much more interesting and mysterious than had they been flooded with sunlight.

The meat: Wow. Many of that stuff, I have no clue what it is!

Edited March 16, 2007 by Chufi (log)

[Domestic Goddess]

Docsconz - that market looks like a typical Filipino meat market. Complete with the hearts hung on hooks, intestines splayed out on the table and various decapitated heads leering at you. LOL

[Pan]

I love how they use the whole animal! I think that's the really ethical thing to do if you're killing an animal for food.

What's the thing above the small intestines? The large intestines?

[Domestic Goddess]

Pan - I would gather those are the large intestines and stomach parts. I guess we'll have Docsconz confirm it.

[petite tête de chou]

Very interesting! I wonder what's done with those noses n- lips. Nostril stew? Lips and eggs for breakfast?

[docsconz]

Doddie, I'm not surprised that the Cusco market would be similar to a Filipino one. With the Spanish connection and trade between the Philippines and Peru under Spain, I would think that there would be many similarities economically, culturally and politically. One already mentioned was the importance of roast suckling pig.

Michael, if you are referring to what I think you are, then yes, those would be large intestines. I specifically did not label the photos, because I thought the overall impression here would be diminished by focusing on the specific anatomic elements present. The salient feature to me is that somehow, someway there is a market for each and every part of the animal.

One photo that I did not get that I really wanted was of the woman selling live frogs. She was one of the few who refused when I asked if I could photograph her or her frogs even after I offered her a tip.

The snouts interested me too. I have absolutely no clue as to how they are used. I would absolutely appreciate any illumination anyone can shed on this.

[docsconz]

Cusco Market Part IV

These are the last of my Cusco Market shots. Somehow we missed the poultry section of the market. That is unfortunate as i tend to find them particularly fascinating. We also missed fish, but I'm not sure if there was a significant one there given its location.

Busy lunch counter. I did not get close enough to see what they were making.

Boiling fresh choclo or corn on the cob. This was actually disappointing as we bought some. It was fairly tasteless. We didn't even finish one ear between us. My wife was particularly disappointed as this was something that she remembered with particular delight from when she visited Cusco in the early 80's.

Bulk spices. I'm not sure what most of the items are, but that is some beautiful cinnamon in the back.

More.

Sidewalk vendors.

Cow's milk cheeses. I was surprised to find little in the way of sheep or goat's milk cheeses.

Bulk dried corn kernels.

Lots of delicious bread.

Back to more fruit.

Later in the trip we had the opportunity to visit a small outdoor market in the Altiplano town of Huatta near Lake Titicaca.

[Sneakeater]

The market pictures made me realize that you haven't yet mentioned (unless I missed it) anticuchos, or skewered grilled beef hearts. They were about my favorite thing I ate on a similar trip to yours. Do we still have your remarks about them to look forward to?

[docsconz]

The market pictures made me realize that you haven't yet mentioned (unless I missed it) anticuchos, or skewered grilled beef hearts.  They were about my favorite thing I ate on a similar trip to yours.  Do we still have your remarks about them to look forward to?

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I did mention them at the end of my post with the offal photos. I did have the opportunity to have them at the end of my trip and I will show and discuss them them. I was surprised that they were not more ubiquitous than they were. I did have skewered meats at the hotel in Macchu Picchu, but they were not the classic anticuchos made from beef heart. Certianly the prevalence of cow hearts at the market are an indication that more than a few people must be buying and eating them!

[Sneakeater]

You think any of us were looking at THE TEXT by the end of that?????????

Edited March 19, 2007 by Sneakeater (log)

[djyee100]

I can figure out what you would make with everything except the intestines and the snouts. The tripe comes from the beef stomach lining, not the intestines, correct? So would one use the intestines for sausage casings? They seem rather large for that purpose.

Fascinating photos. Nothing like a dose of reality about where our food really comes from!

[docsconz]

I can figure out what you would make with everything except the intestines and the snouts. The tripe comes from the beef stomach lining, not the intestines, correct? So would one use the intestines for sausage casings? They seem rather large for that purpose.

Fascinating photos. Nothing like a dose of reality about where our food really comes from! 

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You are correct about the tripe and yes, intestines are traditionally used for sausage casings. Funny thing, is I didn't see a lot of sausage or other charcuterie around, though I'm sure it exists. I wonder if they have other uses for them?

[Domestic Goddess]

In the Philippines, meat from the face of an animal is usually boiled until tender and then sliced and marinated in soy sauce, vinegar, garlic slices of onion and chili pepper strips. This side dish is usually eaten with congee/rice porridge.

[Pan]

[...]

Bulk spices. I'm not sure what most of the items are, but that is some beautiful cinnamon in the back.[...]

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Well, in the foreground from the right, we have ground turmeric and ground chilis, I daresay.

Edited March 19, 2007 by Pan (log)

[docsconz]

[...]

Bulk spices. I'm not sure what most of the items are, but that is some beautiful cinnamon in the back.[...]

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Well, in the foreground from the right, we have ground turmeric and ground chilis, I daresay.

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Quite possible, although they both might be ground chili or aji. Unfortunately, by that time, the time was getting to be an issue. I did buy some of that cinnamon as well as cardamom seeds.

[Sneakeater]

I can figure out what you would make with everything except the intestines and the snouts. The tripe comes from the beef stomach lining, not the intestines, correct? So would one use the intestines for sausage casings? They seem rather large for that purpose.

Fascinating photos. Nothing like a dose of reality about where our food really comes from! 

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You are correct about the tripe and yes, intestines are traditionally used for sausage casings. Funny thing, is I didn't see a lot of sausage or other charcuterie around, though I'm sure it exists. I wonder if they have other uses for them?

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There's a traditional East European Jewish dish consisting of stuffed cow's intestine.

Maybe the Inca were one of the lost tribes.

Edited March 19, 2007 by Sneakeater (log)

[johnnyd]

I specifically did not label the photos, because I thought the overall impression here would be diminished by focusing on the specific anatomic elements present.

Good move, doc. None needed anyway, those pics stand alone. Fascinating +glp!+ !!!

[docsconz]

Las Machitas - Cevicheria

I was discussing Peruvian fod with our guide when the conversation turned to ceviche. I mentioned that we were planning on going to a cevicheria when we go to Lima. He told me, that despite the fact that Cusco was located in the mountains, they had excellent ceviche there and that he knew of at least one place to rival the retaurants in Lima - "Las Machitas." Being in need of a place to go for lunch that day, I invited Julio and Julian (our driver) to take us there and have lunch with us.

Las Machitas, which literally means "young, female macho types," is located off-the beaten track of tourist Cusco no-where near the Plaza de Armas. Unfortunately, I do not have an address or contact information, but was glad that we had the ride and the company. For reasons that I will get to later on in this thread I can't compare it to a Limeñan cevicheria. What I can say is that it was one of my absolute favorite meals of the trip.

The walls were covered with swords made from swordfish swords. It made an interesting, though somewhat creepy tableaux. The lighting was sunlight filtered through a green translucent roof. This too contributed to a somewhat offbeat setting.

Fish broth. This was provided much like an amuse and was absolutely fantastic! The second photo shows the broth with added chili pepper. The chili added some real heat. It was unnecessary for enjoyment of the broth, though it didn't detract from it either.

Chicha Morada. This soft drink made with blue corn and pineapple was somewhat sweet but very tasty, reminiscent of a lambic beer without the alcohol. It was somewhat addictive too and a good match for the seafood.

Chicharron de Camarones Basically fried shrimp, these were fried whole. Though it was a bit of work to get the meat, the flavor was impeccable. I enjoyed the added crunch of parts of the shell as well as sucking out the heads.

Mixed seafood rice, this was related to Spanish paella, but not a paella. It seemed to be almost a cross between paella, Chinese fried rice and a rice casserole. This contained bits of fish, squid and scallops.

Mixed seafood chicharron. Though this overlapped with the chicharron de camarones, it ws a nice adjunct as it contained a number of other elements including a different kind of de-shelled shrimp, octopus, and several different kinds of fish. We also had fried calamari, which was also excellent. No.3 son loves fried calamari so we generally try it when it is available.

Mixed Ceviche. This was absolutely delicious with a nice variety of seafood similar to the fried version above. I would have liked to try a few more varieties/styles of ceviche including tiradito, but we already had a ton of food.

Leche de Tigre Tiger's milk, the ceviche marinade, made a wonderful end of the meal cocktail. I could get used to that habit!

Hot peppers and limes. As with the broth at the beginning of the meal, sliced chilis and lime were available on the table to add to one's meal as a condiment.These chilis had a deceptive bite to them. No.1 son took a bite of one, wasn't too impressed with the heat, then proceeded to eat the whole piece with seeds! It didn't bother him initially, but within a few moments of finishing the job, his mouth exploded with fire. Fortunately this was at the end of the meal as it took him a good part of the day to rid himself of the capsaicin numbness!

View out the front of the restaurant. This photo gives a good sense of the odd greenish tint of the lighting that I mentioned above.

Edited March 26, 2007 by docsconz (log)

[markemorse]

hey doc, great writeup and photos as always...

i'm curious, in miami this january i ate at a fantastic peruvian place, and just before they served my seafood chicarron, they brought out a baguette accompanied by the best green salsa/sauce i've had in a long time. did you encounter anything like this, and if so, any idea what it's called? it had plenty of herbal chile heat, no tomatillos....

thanks!

mark

[docsconz]

hey doc, great writeup and photos as always...

i'm curious, in miami this january i ate at a fantastic peruvian place, and just before they served my seafood chicarron, they brought out a baguette accompanied by the best green salsa/sauce i've had in a long time. did you encounter anything like this, and if so, any idea what it's called? it had plenty of herbal chile heat, no tomatillos....

thanks!

mark

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Hi Mark and thanks. The green salsa, Salsa de Huacatay or "black mint" was fairly ubiquitous, especially in the area around Cusco, though I did not encounter it in the cevicheria. We also did not get a baguette nor did we miss it. I believe that this is the salsa tht you are referring to:

I was hoping to get to a cevicheria in Lima, but because of a reservation snafu, we passed on our opportunity for a different restaurant (at which I had wonderful ceviche). Someday when I get back to Peru I plan to spend more time on the coast and perhaps in the Amazon jungle.

[Carrot Top]

(Pig) intestines are used in traditional (French) recipes for sausage, not just as casings but also chopped up and added to the belly meat to make andouille and andouilletes. A Peruvian variation on this sounds delicious, to me.

Maybe (if you didn't see sausage around too much) most sausage-making is done at home so that the family can adjust the seasonings to their particular tastes?

P.S. Found this, this morning on a South American travel site which it seems impossible to link to:

Chinchulines are sheep and beef intestines grilled over open fires and have a crunchy texture

Edited March 20, 2007 by Carrot Top (log)