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Found 206 results

  1. Hi All- I tried a recipe out of The good cook, James and Jellies over the weekend. It is a bitter orange, lemon and watermelon Jam. Actually its more like a marmalade. The recipe went together easily, but a curious thing happened while I was cooking it. The recipe said to add 3 cups of sugar for each 4 cups of fruit and simmer slowly for 1 hour. I did that but at the end of the hour, the consistency still seemed thin. My first though was to reduce it further. I pulled some out of the pot to taste and continued to reduce. I never did get to a really jelled consistency, however the taste started to change, it lost the fresh watermelon flavor and took on almost a "tea taste" like the sugars in the watermelon had carmelized. It doesnt taste bad but should I have taken another approach? I'm not familiar enough with sure gel to use it if its not called for in a recipe. Any help would be appreciated. Its a beautiful jam, I would just like to maintain the fresh watermelon taste and have it thicker.
  2. That Spain has a tremendous variety of regional cookings is undeniable: from Andalusia to Galizia, we find different traditional cuisines all over the country. In fact, sometimes I find them so different that makes me wonder (and this is a debate that is not new in Spain) if we can talk about a Spanish cuisine as a whole. Do you think that there's a Spanish cooking? If you do, which are the elements that characterize it? I can think of several products (i.e. pork, olive oil to name two of them) that are used in each and every region, but I guess something more than that is needed to define a cuisine. Ideas, please?
  3. For some reason, yesterday ended up being a fungally-oriented day. In the morning, I bought two small bags of mushrooms--chanterelles and black trumpet mushrooms--from the mushroom vendor at the San Miguel market (in Madrid). I cooked them up for lunch. The chanterelles were much meatier than their US counterparts (slightly different variety, I suspect). The black trumpets were very interesting and smelled much stronger uncooked than they ended up. A bit hard to clean (lots of grit and critters in the crevices), but well worthwhile and a fraction of what they would cost in the US. The same evening, we were out tapeando in Chueca and ended up at El Cisne Azul--a bar that specializes in mushrooms (setas). They had four or five different types: chanterelles, black trumpets, oyster mushrooms, and a few that I didn't recognize--one of which, I suspect was a "níscalo" (not sure what the English translation is). When I asked, the man behind the bar told me the latin names for the mystery mushrooms, which are now escaping me... The mushrooms were prepared very simply--sauteed in olive oil and salt. They also offered sauteed flor de calabaza and watercress salads. Great place. Very low key. Next time I'll be sure to limit my mushroom consumption before going, as there's only so much that a body can handle and appreciate in one day. Seriously, I may be suffering from some psychotropic side-effects today from ingesting too many, because I'm completely unable to get any work done and have been relentlessly slacking off. Questions for the experts: What are some of your favorite mushroom dishes? And where can I find them in Madrid? Are there any low-key Basque places that do those wonderful egg and mushroom dishes? What are the different varieties of wild mushrooms available in Spain? And the seasons? Can I look forward to morels in the spring? Are there any good mushroom hunting areas in the Sierra around Madrid? Or do they all come from the misty green north?
  4. Hi everyone, I just had to re-sign up since it's been awhile I wanted to let you all know the awesome news that I will be releasing a book at the end of the year about my time learning the charcuterie and butchery of Spain. It's called Charcutería: The Soul of Spain, and will have a foreword by James Beard award-winning chef José Andrés. The book is going to have a bunch of traditional techniques and recipes for Spanish charcuterie and pork butchery, as well as recipes and other little tricks I picked up working with the folks in the Extremaduran countryside. My photog and I just got back from visiting Spain for the photoshoot and the guys up in Asturias did a little video about it. Here's the link to the video: http://www.whereisasturias.com/?p=6602 And a link to our FB page (Lots more photos... please like!): https://www.facebook.com/charcuteriaspain?ref=ts&fref=ts Please feel free to write me if you have any requests or questions for the book--really trying to make something that my fellow meatheads and sausage nerds can get into. Ciao, jeff PS: As a little offering to my hopefully-new eGullet pals here's a sexy photo from the Jamón slicing shoot. Tatoos and meat...
  5. Just picked up two interesting-looking bottles of Anis Liqueur from Spain called "Chinchon", one labeled "Dulce" (sweet) and bottled at 70 proof, the other "Seco" (dry) at 86 proof. Anyone ever heard of this stuff and/or tried it? I suppose I'm feeling sorry for myself for missing out on the last bottles of White Label Ojen sold in the last year or so at Martin Wine Cellar in New Orleans, and I'm looking for something a bit closer to Ojen than, say, MB Anisette (not that there's anything wrong with MB Anisette) for use in Ojen Frappes....
  6. Does anybody have a description of Turron Candy? I googled it, and got Spanish Turron Candy, but got no real descriptions, just places to buy it. Does anybody have a recipe??
  7. Hello everybody. This is my first post and the reason why I stumbled upon this wonderful site. Since I tried jamon iberico bellota I have been hooked to it. Since I can't buy it locally where I live, I have to get it online. While searching online, I found this on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JAMON-IBERICO-100-EXTREMADURA-BELLOTA-8KG-PATA-NEGRA-/230519034723?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item35ac015363 This is 176 euros for 8kgr jamon including P&P to Greece. This is almost half price from all the other online retailers like http://www.ibergour.co.uk/en/productos/ficha_producto.html?id_prod=jmcex who sell for 350 euros for 7 kilos including P&P. How can there be such a big price difference? Is it because the ebay one is direct from the manufacturer? Is this price possible? Or is there any kind of scam involved? Anyone who lives in Spain close to the manufacturing regions can confirm these prices possible?
  8. Vinagreta -- Spanish Vinaigrette This vinaigrette is especially good on hot summer days. Serve with beans (all kinds: garbanzo, broad, white, judiones....), fish or whatever you want! Ingredients: 1 whole fresh tomato 1 hard boiled egg (remove yolk & chop the egg white & yolk separately) 1 shallot (finely chopped) 1 T finely chopped parsley 1/2 c olive oil 1/4 c vinagre de jerez (sherry vinegar: typical of Andalucia; substitute with wine vinegar) Salt (to taste) Pepper (to taste) Directions: 1. Put the shallots, finely chopped tomato & chopped egg white in a medium size bowl. 2. In a separate bowl whisk the oil & vinegar; add salt and pepper. 3. Add the oil & vinegar to the tomatoes, shallots & chopped egg white. 4. When serving sprinkle with chopped egg yolk & parsley. More of My Spanish Recipes Keywords: Easy, Vegetarian, Sauce, Spanish/Portugese ( RG546 )
  9. We've just come from 4 days in Madrid and an evening in Toledo. In Madrid we ate at Casa Salvador where my wife's oxtails were superb but I can only rate the flavor of my tripe as good, though it was cooked perfectly. I thought Barbara was going to swoon over the roasted marrow bone and beef at Sacha. She started with a fresh tomato salad in a very light balsamic vinaigrette that was perfection. I had the fried artichokes - paper thin slices of baby artichokes fried in olive oil that had the texture of potato chips but were pure artichoke flavor. I followed that with brains that were superb - lightly battered and fried, slightly crunchy on the outside, milky soft inside. Barbara had a chocolate thing for desert and she flipped. I had something akin to creme caramel, but I have no idea what it was, other than outrageously good. I think it had cielo in the name, but since I asked the maitre d' to just pick out deserts for us I'm not sure what we had. Then on Tuesday we went to David Muñoz's Diverxo. Extraordinary. And that's saying something because we got off to a really bad start. Twenty minutes to get a glass of wine ordered from the time we were seated. Then, when asked if I'd like chopsticks to which I replied in the affirmative, none ever arrived, but the food transcended all. An amuse bouche of edamame seasoned, perhaps with sumac and something else with a buttermilk-like garlic dipping sauce. Then we both had the seven course tasting menu (the other choice being the thirteen course menu). The seven courses were actually around eleven since a course would often be divided into two halves served sequentially, like the poached prawn (it was called something else) that arrived followed by the grilled, seasoned, head and body with the juices from the body drizzled over the poached tail. Somewhere in the middle were white asparagus wrapped in the skin of red mullet - actually the meal involved parts of red mullet in several of the dishes, such as a pate of red mullet liver on a thin crisp. The courses that I sort of remember include the soup served in a young coconut shell where eating the coconut meat was a desired part of the experience, a steamed roll with a quail's egg yolk barely poached on top, an extraordinary piece of tuna cheek that tasted like a sous-vide cooked short rib, and a piece of ox cheek that had been slow roasted for 112 hours, a small piece of hake served sauced accompanied by a horseradish cream and spherified lime, and a desert which I no longer remember. Very, very highly recommended. Yesterday, we made our way to Toledo, where completely by chance we went for lunch to Adolfo. It turns out that the chef, Adolfo Muñoz, is David Muñoz's uncle. And he cooks like it. Not modernist, but brilliantly. Barbara had a simple "small" salad ordered off the menu which was beautiful and then a scallops and artichokes starter with fresh baby artichokes and incredibly dense scallops barely accented with maldon salt flakes that were perfect. I had a risotto of black rice cooked with squid ink and baby calamari and manchego cheese that was off the charts followed by red partridge that was excellent, but paled in comparison to the risotto. Excellent. Now we're off to Lisbon.
  10. A friend from out of town is planning on opening a Spanish restaurant (not in NYC) He is visiting NYC next week to get a sampling of the restaurants for inspiration. I need to narrow down the options to 3 or 4 places. From random internet reading, i have the following list: Alta Casa Mono Socarrat and Nacional Boqueria Txikito Euzkadi Can anyone suggest some other places that are not to be missed? Also, please comment on these.
  11. Seems like Portugese style linguica is hard to find across the center of the US, but prevalent in every grocery store on both coasts. Here in Central Texas its nowhere. So what is one to do? Make your own!! I think I got it fairly authentic with coarse chopped pork butt and chunks of creamy fat. The meat was marinaded in Port wine, garlic and marjoram. Cured and cold smoked with a good amount of pepper mixed in. I love Linguica and grew up on it as a youth in Northern California. Not the easiest sausage to make, but worth the effort.
  12. I've long been a huge fan of José Andrés, the Spanish chef who is an old friend of Ferran Adrià's and serves dazzling tasting menus at the tiny Minibar in Washington D.C. Here's a full report of my last meal there. Some of his specialties are the deconstructed guacamole, foie gras cotton candy and an amuse of caipirinha nitro (a solid and smoke-filled version of the traditional Brazilian cocktail). It's not just me that loves this chef, in fact: many egulleters have raved about his ultra-inventive cooking in the D.C. forum. The link to the Minibar topic is here For those who have never heard of him, here's a quick recap, quoted from the press release: "Born in Asturias and raised in Barcelona (...) His popular Washington, DC restaurant, Jaleo, was one of the first critically and commercially successful tapas restaurants in America(...) José has also been credited with introducing Americans to both traditional and avant-garde Spanish cooking, particularly with his exclusive Washington, DC-based restaurant, minibar by josé andrés. Food & Wine hailed José as the “hero of the Spanish revolution,” who “helped create the Spanish food boom in America.” And the late R.W. Apple of the New York Times called him “the boy wonder of culinary Washington.” José is also a television star in Spain." It turns out he's just opened (or is about to open, I am not sure) his first West Coast restaurant, Bazaar, at the SLS hotel, which by the way has a very funky website The p.r. team sent me a release and photos (below) of the dishes but I was wondering... have any of you tried it yet? I'd love to hear your thoughts... WATERMELON CUBES WITH TOMATO SEEDS TROUT ROE CONES WATERMELON WITH FETA LOBSTER SALAD
  13. ok, having just come back from a phenomenal food trip to bilbao/rioja, im totally hooked on the aged ox steaks. is there anywhere in spain where its possible to buy this at retail? i tried a number of butchers in the area as i walked around, but i got nowhere. im sure my nonexistent spanish didnt help but it seemed that it wasnt possible to find any. do the asadors do their own sourcing/aging? surely there is somewhere to buy retail. if anyone knows please let me know... im happy to do the pilgrimmage.
  14. A professor of History at Oberlin College describes, in the Travel section of The New York Times, a hike in Extremadura to Yuste, emperor Charles V's last residence, where he died. She writes: "We spent that night, as Charles did, in the Castle of Oropesa, today a state-run parador. It is a lovely place, with its Renaissance-era courtyard perfectly preserved, its guest rooms comfortably furnished. From its walls we could look back up over the mountains we had just traversed. We took long hot baths, and confounded the waiter in the parador restaurant by leaving the white asparagus (a Spanish delicacy that we both find repellently flabby) on our salads untouched - the equivalent, we deduced from his reaction, of eating only the toast points on a plate of caviar." This reminds me of a text by another American writer on Rioja or Basque menestra (I can't remember which one it was), describing it as a platter of "overcooked vegetables". It seems to me that in today's vegetable culture, deeply influenced by 30 years of insistence on 'al dente' textures, some people no longer understand the subtlety of tender vegetables - and white asparagus must be tender and melt in the mouth - and confuse them with those boiled, mushy, overcooked vegetables that graced or disgraced plates of home-cooked food (particularly in the Anglo-Saxon world) in a previous era - or sometimes still appear on those plates today. I think these people are missing some great delicacies...
  15. Andre

    Spanish wine tasting

    Spanish Wine Tasting Special Reserve May 13th 2004. Whenever Rioja – Spain’s most famous red wine region is mentioned, the first thing that comes to mind is barrel aging. The way things are progressing; this rapidly changing wine region may be in need of a new connotation. Tradition: the very basic difference between one cultural thing and another. One might argue that tradition is therefore a source for miscomprehensions and disputes, yet it is the finest way to express the fruit of the earth. So many young and talented winemakers invade the traditional world of wine with clearer, stricter, yet soulless and less experienced systems and earn much praise and compliments, that I find myself worried more and more about the ignorance of the mass consumer and the abuse of the famous critic. Then again what can you expect of species preferring to live an artificial life rather than a natural one? It seems we are back to stage one very time there is a new revelation. A father trying to teach his son about his business is likely to be in trouble these days. Lack of proper communication and an outside consultant can bring the best of businesses to their knees. The father, who may lack some of the knowledge possessed by his son, wishes to teach in a multidimensional way rather than the clear, precise and one dimensional system the son is to absorb in schools. The Father’s “Watch and learn” system requires time and attitude today’s youth seem to lack – there goes tradition. A famous French marketing consultant once said: “respect your father but be ready to kill him”. The gentleman is known to have aided many older companies to regain control of the market. Such are the troubles traditional wineries are facing worldwide and namely in Spain. The term Bodega –the cellar meant to age the wines and release them when ready to drink is modernizing and fast. Off we go… The Whites: Marques de Riscal Rueda 2000. Nothing they teach you in wine courses should be taken for granted. This yellowish toward goldish and by far less appealing wine may be ejected by sight alone yet overcoming such “an obstacle” is much worth it. Dried fruit nose with a focus on apricota and citrus fruits with a pleasant slightly oxidized aromas that seem to add complexity and authenticity. Soft and smooth on the entry with a good almost chewy body ending with a very well balanced dry finish. I am happy Marques de Riscal stuck to the region of Rueda and are constantly improving the production of this Verdejo grape [ although some Viura is added lately]. Conde de Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria A big impressive dry white made from 100% Viura grapes and fermented in oak. A classic oak impression, fully compatible with the acidity and texture of the high quality Viura located at the alto Cantabria. A pleasure for those not seeking the fruits in white wine with some pefectltly balance sherry aromas. Enjoyed very much. The Reds: Rioja Faustino 7 2002. A modern fruity red wine with a mildly spiced finish. Short? So is the wine. Drink now. Rioja Conde de Valdemar Crianza 2000. A wonderful medium bodied Rioja, fairly priced with a good balance between well-integrated tannins, fruity and spicy flavors, acidity and oak. Good job! Rioja Faustino Crianza 1999. Nearly five years old and already tired. This wine lacks the backbone acidity that balances good quality Rioja. Poor barrel aging or storage technique with plenty of off beat tannins. Skip. Rioja Faustino 5 1998. A disappointing Reserva from an able producer. Somehow softer and lacks the intensity and complexity expected from a good Rioja Reserva. Rioja Conde de Valdemar Reserva 1998 Now that is a very good example of a Rioja Reserva. Medium + body well integrated tannins and spices and a concentrated texture that turn this ine into a drinking pleasure if good meat and time are available. Deserves high rating. Rioja Conde de Valdemar Grand Reserva 1996. A wine to learn aging from. Perfect balance of this 8 year old wine with plenty of complexity, tannins and acidity to keep it going several more years yet, why wait? Rioja Finca Valpiedra 1996 Not the perfect wine in terms of balance yet a well constructed single vineyard concentrated Rioja. The wine needs time to fully develop which makes it more difficult to taste yet much more interesting to drink. Different than previous years, then again this is what the Valpiedra is all about. Give it time and enjoy. A wonderful experience. Gaudium Marques de Caceres 1994. This wine had me worried for some time. I realized its potential and had bought several cases of this wine. None of the previous bottles opened over the years showed substantial development and only now it seems that the time has come. Tannins are finally stepping aside in this modern Rioja to express ripe yet delicate sweet red fruits, good acidity and a lingering complex after taste. The wine continues to develop over an hour with a less than impressive start and and an elegant and complex finish that turns this wine into a wonderful experience. Drink 2004-2008. Rioja Marques de Caceres Grand Reserva 1989. Slightly brownish with a tired nose? Let it rest. Light red towards light gold-brownish colors. The nose is dominated by older oak and spices with mild dried fruits lingering very nicely. The fruit gain intensity as the wine develops in the glass. In the mouth the wine is soft on the entry and develops slowly into spicy sweet flavors. Amaretto, herbs and spices linger in the after-taste. The wine needs no less than 25 minutes in the glass to open up and is excellent with cold meats and aged Manchego and Parmesan cheese. One hour later and the wine fully develops into an emotionally moving older Rioja that portrays the greatness that could be found in simplicity.
  16. This morning, while placing my regular order at the Lisbon El Corte Inglés (which expertly deliver live shellfish as well as everything else) I was told a shipment of "percebes" ( goose barnacles) from Galicia had just arrived, so I naturally ordered a kilo, which usually costs between 50 and 60 euros. My friend at the fish counter, probably when her supervisor wasn't watching, warned me that these, though they were no fresher or better than usual, would cost me a whopping 125 euros a kilo - more than double. Only 20 years ago, percebes were almost free. In fact, on the coast, you got a free small plate with a dozen of them whenever you ordered a beer. As the appetite for them has grown (specially in inland Spain and Portugal) and their harvest (quite dangerous when the weather's bad) has become more difficult - not to mention the ravages of oil spills and pollution in general - their price has escalated beyond anyone's most pessimistic predictions. There are a lot of cheap live percebes on the market (from Morocco, Peru, practically everywhere in South America) but they're enormous, chewy, dry and entirely devoid of that particular sea-tangy delicate flavour of Galician and Portuguese percebes. Frozen percebes, about 15 euros a kilo, are a waste of money. There really is no substitute. In Summer, when their harvest is easy, the prices tumble - but consumers have become used to the high prices and they never descend below 40 to 50 euros a kilo, unless you travel to the little fishing villages where they're caught. 125 euros is a nightmare and probably a freak occurrence. But already 3 kilos had been sold... The same price spiral has affected "angulas" - the delicious baby elvers we Iberians so treasure quickly fried in olive oil, garlic and two "malagueta" peppers. Not only are they prohibitively expensive (the best ones) but they're also becoming rarer, so that the few restaurants who can get their hands on prime, just-caught percebes and angullas will keep them for their best customers only, via a well-established phonecall system. How difficult it is to pay such prices for delicacies we once took for granted! I need some help here: what should a gourmet's correct attitude be? (For the record, I refused the percebes and rose hell, ordering two very angry lobsters instead. Two one-and-a-half pounders, caught yesterday off Peniche, cost me 120 euros. That's a kilo and a half of wild "lavagante" for the price of a kilo of goose barnacles.) My, how times have changed...
  17. If anyone has suggestions for Sidra bar's and Chocolate y Churro places in Madrid I'd be grateful to hear them. Thanks!
  18. Where in PDX can one purchase quality Italian and Spanish grocery items??? I am specifically searching for olives and canned in olive oil tuna.
  19. Just as I was thinking of going to Meigas, I see it has closed. I can’t seem to find decent Spanish food in Manhattan. El Cid does pretty good tapas, at least they did a while back. Last w/end went to Riazor, 245 W 16, and it was dull bordering on the unpleasant. The stripe stew had something going for it as unlike the other dishes it had flavor. Chorizo appetizer didn’t have that delicious depth of flavor that even supermarket chorizo has, the paella was mushy and underseasoned and when I asked my husband how his pork with potato salad was he answered by shrugging his shoulders, so I didn’t ask for a bite of that. I’ve been to El Faro, and Spain….say no more. And why are these Spanish restaurants so grim looking? Do the owners think we expect the docor found in Goya's paintings of witches to make believe we are in Spain? So, where to go? Do I really have to leave Manhattan? PS: Newark is on my list for Portuguese.
  20. wingding

    Spanish wines

    Any recommendations for retail outlets in Manhattan with a good selection of Spanish wines?
  21. Summer's here and the time is right for eating in the streets. It looks like summer finallly arrived to our peninsula, after some timid tries. So now we're going to see the temperature high in the thirties (ºC) - nineties (F) for some months, which cold dish do you enjoy the most? Since I've created the thread, I'll choose the cliché: gazpacho, in almost any of its endless variations. But there's much more outside gazpacho. I'm curious what our triumphant friends to the other side of the border have these days, since I'm not familiar with any cold dish from Portugal.
  22. I'm going to cook a paella for a group this weekend (chicken, shrimp and chorizo), and I'll be following a recipe that was printed in the NYT about 2 years ago. It calls for 1/2 pound of chorizo, "peeled and into small cubes", and in the cooking process it is sauteed until "warmed through". Today I went and bought some fresh chorizo from a Spanish market, it is in a natural casing and is obviously totally raw. But the more I read the recipe, I think it implies the use of cured chorizo. Any thoughts? Will the dish still be good if I use the crumbled fresh instead?
  23. Unfortunately Espai Sucre was closed, but I did manage to get to, taste, buy and bring back chocolate from Oriol Balaguer's Estudi Xocolada and Cacao Sampaka. Estudi Xocolada is an artisanal producer of exquisitely fine chocolate in a number of varieties. Unlike the other places, it does not serve its chocolate products on site, but we did have an interesting discussion with the pastry chef (not Oriol Balaguer), who offered us samples of chocolates with pop rocks inside. This was some of the most incredible and fun chocolate I have ever eaten. The chocolate was dramy pure dark chocolate, but the pop rocks gave an incredible mouth sensation to go along with the flavor of the chocolate. We bought chocolates and a dessert book (in English) by Balaguer. Cacao Sampaka is located off the Ramblas Catalunya and has a small cafe in adition to the retail Chocolate shop. They have an incredible array of flavors and styles. I sampled the black truffle, which was amazing. I'll report back as I sample some of the others we came home with.
  24. I was just doing a search on Oriol Balaguer and it came up that he was opening this place which is a chocolate studio, I think. Any info?
  25. This evening, my friends Michael and Elizabeth and I were sharing a bottle of albariño (Martín Codax--excellent), and the conversation quite naturally turned to favorite food experiences in Spain. We all quickly agreed how marvelous that wine would be with some pimientos de padrón, those tiny green peppers from Galicia, about a bite each (and of which about one in ten are hot!), fried in olive oil and sprinkled with coarse salt, served as tapas throughout the country. They seem to be catching on in some areas here, but I have never seen them for sale in NYC. I must admit I haven't done an exhaustive search, but I would have definitely noticed them if they were lying around. Do they ever show up at Fairway? The Green Market? An internet search turns up a grower in Northern California that sells them, and the the Spanish internet food site La Tienda will ship them to you for 25 DOLLARS A POUND!! (I think not...) Suggestions, anyone?
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