Peter B Wolf

And I buy mine at this Polish Place in this Polish Town: Millie's in Chicopee Massachusetts. http://www.milliespierogi.com/ Truly excellent.

I remember! ....and the planes had propellers. "Super-Constellations"

To quote Steve Klc: "Not to change the subject, but the really, really amazing potato dish from Point & Ma Gastronomie is the "Pommes Dauphine." 10 ounces of pate a choux with 2 # of mashed potatoes, 3.5 ounces of butter and 4 yolks. Then rolled or piped into little "cork" shapes and deep fried. " Steve, you really do not mean "Mashed Potatoes", as many readers will perceive this as the finished product "Mashed Potatoes" (which include Milk, Cream, Butter etc). You mean "rised" potatoes, Yes?! And to the shape, I believe the "cork" shaped ones are called "Lorette" and the "Quenelles" shaped ones are the real "Dauphine"? Remember my motto : "I stand corrected"

Toasted Bagel with Chevre Fermier and Jalapeno Pepper jam. Grossinger's Rye with Goose fat and "Harzer" or "Mainzer" HandKaese, sprinkled with lots of Carraway seeds. Sliced cold Boiled Brisket with hot new boiled potatoes, freshly grated Horseradish and Lingon berries or Preiselbeeren. Cottage Cheese, Muesli, fresh sliced Peaches and Maple Syrup (BGrade!) Just had a bowl of the last item for dinner.

I don’t know if I am late for this, but I have a few places for a Duesseldorf visit for any one. What follows here are moderate to high priced establishments. My Info comes from data I have collected over the years, while living in Germany from ’85 to ’99. I don’t believe that any of the given addresses have either changed, nor that the place is closed. Although the Chef, where I provided the name, may has departed.. Two places I recommend: “Victorian” downtown, Koenigstrasse 3a, Chef Guenter Scherrer, a name well known in German gastronomy circles. “Aalschokker” in the suburb Kaiserswerth, Kaiserswerther Markt 9, Chef Jean Claude Bourgueil. This place is on the first floor in the same building housing the famous Three Star Michelin “Im Schiffchen” Another place is “Robert’s Bistro”, near the Rhein River port area, Wupperstrasse 2. And for the top Italian, and this is not the American Style red sauce Italian, but more of northern Italy cooking : “Guiseppe Verdi” Paulstrasse 5., very elegant. The next place is a typical Duesseldorf institution: “Gatzweiler Brauhaus”, a brewery Bistro type, located in an old trainstation in the suburb of Oberkassel, Belsenplatz 5. Their own brew is world famous “Altbier”, it’s a different way of brewing, and very distinct to the cities of Koeln and Duesseldorf. It’s drunk out of small very, very thin glasses. Very delicious. For Lunch I recommend a japanese place : “Edo” in Loerick, Am Seestern 3, and “An’ne Bell” in Golsheim, Rotterdamer Strasse 11 , it’s not far out from downtown, For a top Gourmet Shop, they are always called either “Delikatessen” or “Feinkost”. Do not mistake the word Delikatessen with our American Deli, I recommend “Feinkost Reuther” , Berliner Allee 4 or “Muenstermann”, Hohe Strasse 5-13. And then there is a fabulous Butcher Shop: “Foerster Fleisch Koe”, Koenigsallee 60. Do not forget the top Pastryshop/Pattisserie “Konditorei Heinemann”, downtown at the Vereinsbank Passage. Duesseldorf is known for it’s mustards (Loewensenf) and every little butchershop makes terrific Leberwurst.

I don’t know how many other eGullet members are or were trained professional cooks/chefs. I am! Retired for the last two and one half years, after a couple of months over 48 years always in this business. I never either pumped gas nor sold bibles, never before, during or after my time in the Hospitality Industry. And yes, I am European trained, a three year German apprenticeship, at the tender age of 15 to 18 years old. The time frame was 1951-54. These were six day a week, 10-hour split shifts. 09:00 to 15:00 and 18:00 to 22:00. (One Sun off every two months). Apprentices (we were three in the kitchen) lived in. (Room and Board). Rules existed, as the establishment’s owners (delegated to the Head Chef) were totally responsible for us, in regards to our Parents, the Government (license to teach/instruct), the Chef’s Association, the Union, the Restaurant Association , and I forgot who else. But we were under age. And “live-in” meant “not leaving the premises after 10pm”. Now, was there yelling, shoving, hitting and other abuse? NO, NO and NO !! in CAPS. There was hectic and raised voices, a bit of temperament, let’s call it excitement. I had a very good head chef, 34/35 years of age, kind and understanding. I must have liked him then and also appreciated him in later years, as I tried to renew contact with him when I was long in the States (1982), and found out he was too. We always stayed in contact during all those years. He is dead now. God blesses him. After apprenticeship, I found a job as Journeyman Cook in another, larger Hotel in Germany. “Brigade” of 22, Headchef an Alsatian Jew. The only reason I mention this, is because I remember he was one who definitely was for “must taste right” food. Every one of all the cooks liked him. No LOUD noises here !! Expectations yes: punctuality, cleanliness, aiding others. Five apprentices there, plus about same Journeyman cooks, so “young guys”. No abuse. Next job aboard ship, brigade of 10, not counting Bakers, Butchers and Pastry Cooks. Scullery, KPs and “pantry” men also not counted. 1,200 people to feed every day, Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner. Many long hours and continued days while at sea (11 days Germany – Canada). No yelling screaming, knife throwing or other abuse. To NO ONE – by NO ONE ! On I went: South America, French Head Chef, from the old Garde. Taught me some French and Cooking. Came to the States in ’57, Fry Cook in Philly, learned all the bad language English provided. I found “cooks” with a lot less knowledge and 20 plus years more experience than I, and they got yelled at by a, sort of tough, Swiss Chef . Down the road, 18 months at the Americana in Miami Beach, German Head Chef. Hard to work for, but fair and reasonable. No abuse to anyone. Stern words for laziness, unsanitary work and tardiness. Guys that did not show up for work as scheduled did not have to come back. Many other jobs followed. Became Head Chef myself. Did I ever abuse anyone?. I am sure I did, I am a very critical person, and expect at times too much from others. Often even assuming “they should know”. And then “platzt mir die Hutschnur” , I explode, I have belittled people, I have called them ignorant, dumb, stupid but never any foul names. My nature does not permit me to swear – and I don’t. Have I ever worked in places that care to use the kind of treatment as described in various posts above, I must say No. Never to the extreme as the article quoting Bourdain is trying to make us out. Same as others describe the old European Chefs from 50 plus years ago. I simply do not believe this. They are not around any more. And in Europe, apprentices today have more rights than we ever had. They also learned how to sue, and will. Here is a quote: “Americans are impatient of the slightest criticism and insatiable for praise...” Tocqueville's "Democracy in America" And Newton Minow said : "We've gotten to the point where everybody's got a right and nobody's got a responsibility." And, you all can quote me, Peter, : “I stand corrected” -

Somehow it's good to hear "Cavey's" is still in business. And at it's quality yet. The first time I set food into this downstairs French Restaurant, was in 1972. Visited many times, but not later than 1977. At that time it was THE place. Don't really know how good it is now.

Ventresca di Tonno in Extra Virgin Olive Oil comes from the thunnus thynnus, the Mediterranean 'Tonno Rosso' or Bluefin Tuna, fished in the 'rush' when it is coming in to warm waters for mating, at the end of a long migration. Available from: http://www.esperya.com. This is the best Tuna I have found so far. And for a salad, Capers , home-made Mayo and some special Anchovies: “Anxoves de l’Escala (in Oil) from a town (l’Escala on the Costa Brava/Spain), Packer’s name El Xillu.

With all the beautiful Wuesthof, F.Dick, Sabatier, and others I have, my Bread knife is Chicago Cutlery, 10" (BT10), eight years old and still exellent, cost at that time around $20.00. Even with hard crust, six day old German Rye (send from Germany).

Well here is the German version, further down after the recipe, this can easely be turned into the American version. Start with firm cooking Potatoes, such as Maine or Prince Edward Island ones. Definitely not any high starch Potato, such as Russets. Select same size ones, wash, poke with a three or four tined fork twice. Place in a wide shallow vs. narrow tall cooking vessel with a good hand-full Salt, after coming to a boil, let simmer until inserted fork has no resistance. About 25 min. Drain and cool, but not in cold water as they get water logged. Also, cool only so you can handle, that is, peeling them. After all are peeled, let sit just for a while. In this "while" boil for about 5 min. a couple cups strong Chicken Broth with Cider vinegar, at a ratio of 3 parts Stock to 2 parts Vinegar. This liquid should have at least one and a half medium Onion, finely diced, and some finely ground white Pepper added to it. I also recommend at least 2 tsp. of Sugar. Now, while this is boiling, "slice" the Potatoes, not cube, into even thickness slices. Pour the boiling liquid over the Potatoes, which have to be in a fairly large round bottom bowl. Toss, similar to gold panning, with a flipping effect this salad and let stand refrigerated for 20/30 min. The consistency shoul be sort of "saemig" (viscous). Toss again, by adding a good quantity of Virgin Olive Oil, adjust seasoning. Anything added at ones desire, is ones own taste. If this Potato Salad is eaten before cooling, luke-warm, they call it in America "German Potato Salad", now when you cool it and add Mayonnaise, it's typical "American Potato Salad". This is my Grandmother's version, and also the way I learned it during apprenticeship in Germany. lizziee: to quote....."my husband insists that the best potato salad is made with homemade mayonnaise because that is the way Cassell's (his favorite hamburger joint)makes it." So will you get the "home-made" Mayonnaise from Cassell's, or will you homemake Mayo? Which will be different! Everyone has a different recipe! You most likely could not duplicate Cassell's.

...."The Envelope please........." And someone please fill umpteen ones with Mr. Bourdain's quote, address and send to all known and unknown Restaurants, their proprietors and others in command, with an additional note, that the time on the clock is set and to better wake up when it rings.

I got to clear things up. This ongoing thing about Tommy. Seems to be a "Love" & "Hate" relationship of many posters. Here is my version, of how I see Tommy. Definition: " Tommy is capable of lying convincingly enough, to make a person believe he is as smart as he thinks he is."

So, You will stand up for him? Or do you not? I will!!!

Friend of mine requests the run down on Restaurant Nichola(s?) in Red Bank. Please help, menu prices, quality etc. Thanks

Shame on you Suvir. All these cute Kaola Bears deprived of their food.Maybe that's why they are on the endangered spcies list

"Food Art" is available to hospitality industry professionals free for the asking. They will send an application asking for your association in the industry. I believe, writers, reviewers and similar are also entitled. Call the number and ask them to send you a form, don't know if you qualify, nothing wagered / nothing gained!

Anyone remember the Swordfish scare in the sixties? supposed to have been full of Mercury. Eat enough of it, paint a scale with numbers on your body and pretent to be a Thermometer

And I thought Giffords is from Maine: http://www.giffordsicecream.com/

Here is a copy of another thread posting of 4 June: "Bread Pudding:Fruits, Nuts and Milk v. Cream?" And the following is the recipe I posted: Here is a recipe I favor. I also have used many other fresh fruits for this, including slightly poached Rhubarb (Liquore Galliano added!). I also prefere to make this in a 18X12 baking dish (glass or other) Clafoutis Chaud aux Framboises Warm Clafoutis with Raspberries 8 ounces shelled almonds 3/4 cup flour 9 large eggs, separated 1 1/3 cups sugar 10 ounces(2 1/2 sticks)unsalted butter, melted 1 cup powered sugar 2 cups fresh raspberries Preheat oven to 400 F Beat eggs yolks with 1 cup sugar until thick, add melted butter. Finely grind almonds with flour, than fold in yolk mixture. Whip powered sugar and egg whites until peaks form, fold gently in yolk mixture. Put batter in 6 inche baking dishes (buttered) drop raspberries on top of each dish about 7 or 8 raspberries. Bake 18 or 20 minutes until golden brown. Sprinkle with Demarara Sugar. Puree remaining sugar and berries pour sauce on dessert dishes. Put warm cakes on each dessert dish.

Four days ago, Saturday, inside garage, loading back of van with five/six casseroles for a church pot-luck. Driving out of the garage, heard that crunching noise, forgot to close hatchback door on van. Millions of pieces of tinted glass looked like Demerara Sugar on those dishes. The garage door opener looked sort of bent out of shape too, so was my wife. Total damage about $1,400.00. Good thing they always bring too much to church suppers anyway. Our food was not missed, I was p....d.

And then there is NY subway construction with that stuff: "In places, the job still looks more like an archaeology dig than a subway rebirth. The ragged ends of the old tunnel walls can be seen, layers of rust-colored brick interspersed with concrete, the layers glued together with thick black mastic to keep water out." part of quote from NY Times "Tunnel Vision" 21 may.

I'd call someone who did that as something other than a joke a "shlemiel." (Hey, nothing personal. You're probably a nice guy, except to waiters who forget who gets which dish.) "shlemiel" n : a person who is gullible and easy to take advantage of [syn: chump, fish, fool, gull, mark, patsy, fall guy, sucker, schlemiel, soft touch, mug] Source: WordNet ® 1.6, © 1997 Princeton University Don't mind to be called Schlemiel, it's a cute word, when my Grandmother used to call me that, I always associated it with witticism. Guess I am wrong, see above. And a sucker I am not. so there.

The eleven PM dinner reservation is nothing new. Whilst working as chef at the Student Prince in Springfield Mass (in the sixties and seventies), during summer months, "Storrowton Music Fair" brought every night customers and cast to our place (with reservations). On one occasion Zsa Zsa Gabor's poodle got a well trimmed N.Y. strip steak. Ann Curio always wanted a Wiener Schnitzel. I know it was not GT, nor today, but we were open and served Dinners until midnight.

There are really no shaky tables, just uneven floors. What irks me most is waitpeople forgetting who gets what, and having the nerve to ask. If it happens to me, I usually tell them something I did not order at all, and get them completely confused.

Oh yes, I almost forgot: the Michelin Atlas Routier France as it is called is usually available in Super Markets, much less expensive then anywhere else. I bought mine in June 1997 for FF58.80, which at that time came to $10.80, it's the huge version 16"X12" spiral bound in 1:200 (1cm=2km), 192 pages, can not be beat.