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Peter B Wolf

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Everything posted by Peter B Wolf

  1. You all know us "Krautheads" are Wurst eaters, and with wurst comes Mustard: "Duesseldorfer Loewensenf"
  2. Macrosan, I have not yet done any planning except some crude scetches and measurements, as I found some real old bricks, now cleaned up, plus I have a few griddle, grill and other grates from a demolished JennAir Range I want to use and also build my own. Any hints or specs or plans as to how, what kind of chimney and in which area of the back yard to place that thing would be of great help. Please be so kind. You can email me if you so wish and are willing to do so.Thank you.
  3. I had forgotten about a piece of Bulgarian Feta, for over three months, which was only lightly wrapped in parchment. It was therefor not airtight and dried out so much that I was able to grate it on the large hole side of a four-sided grater. That over the 'Fresh Tomato Sauce' was just delightful.
  4. Steve Klc Posted: Jun 20 2002, 07:27 PM “...that, effort aside, our best high-end restaurants don't stack up in terms of creativity and interest when compared with the best in other elite food cities...that we have a core group of celebrity chefs taking it relatively easy, cooking here precisely because of the lack of competition, lack of awareness and discriminating palate of our conservative diners, and that these chefs have been cooking like they were indeed tired of DC for some time now.” Steve: the point of ‘chefs taking it relatively easy’ is only an outcome of the following, and you wrote ‘lack of awareness and discriminating palate of our conservative diners’. Room62rocks Posted: Aug 17 2002, 07:10 PM “……Furthermore, the majority of chefs that come to this town are distracted by a lot of things other than their art. Big fish in little pond reality is a dulling point for a person's internal motivation….” Room62rocks: is the distraction caused by these ‘Big Fish in little pond’ (our Politicians?), and the pond being ‘Dining is not an issue’ for these big fish? Steve Klc Posted: Aug 17 2002, 11:28 PM “…….and the delusion that the supposedly small Post readership percentage interested in chefs and restaurants is effectively being served by his one review….” Steve: it is not a delusion, but ‘Post readership percentage interested in chefs and restaurants’ is small. (so is other medias’) Steve Klc Posted: Aug 18 2002, 12:34 AM “……By the way room62rocks--thank you for weighing in. Please read through some of our other nascent DC board threads and add more of your perspective. Room62rocks: Please do! ALL: As you know my background, I was and still am a chef and proud of it. I never will nor ever have I considered myself a Gourmet Chef or that I could compare myself with any of our celebrity chefs. But I do consider myself of having discriminating taste, recognize cooking of others, and love to eat others’ food, plus I feel I can distinguish between the best and not so “bestest”, and am able to differentiate between people who eat because they have to, and people who eat because they like to. Well, I worked during ‘84/’85 in DC as a civilian culinary instructor and consultant for HQ US MARINE CORPS. While living there, I discovered that a very large percentage of the DC workforce in all kinds of agencies, establishments and you name it are somehow connected with the Government, or work directly for it. I also found out that this workforce consists of a very large contingent of former military personnel retired. And through my work for the military, I also have 42 months USAF HQ Strategic Air Force Omaha NE, I discovered that these military seldom showed much interest of dining, but eating. Officers’ Clubs (now Community Clubs) have beautiful rooms and furniture, carpets, drapes and crystal chandeliers, but beer and liquor is drunk out of plastic cups, paper plates are common. Sheetpan cakes with gaudy cobalt blue decorations are de rigeur, and found to be gorgeous. At Sunday brunches tons of SOS (made with ground beef) are consumed and found to be delicious. So, these same guys that now are the major workforce in DC, after a 20 plus year stint in the “Service”, still are not demanding more discerning foods. All the travel (or do I only assume that they all have been around the world?) of these masses seem not to have much of an impact on their culinary outlook. Put my foot into this one! I’ll chew it and as mentioned before: I stand corrected!!
  5. Even with the following explanations (see URL), one needs to be a mathematition to make intelligent easy to understand comparisens when reading labels. On another issue, I do not even understand why the labeling information always breaks everything down to "servings" (often not stating what a "serving" is). Why are they not required to simply refer to the 'total' ingredients per pack, or better yet what it would be per pound, making it a standard!? http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/foodlab.html
  6. Bushey, Never had them shipped from there, but I buy at the place when in Chicopee, or when my brother-in-law comes up here visiting he'll bring some
  7. Anyone interested to cook (roast or whatever) "Cuy" , friends of mine tell me you can purchase the ready to cook deep frozen ones at a place called "Carniceria las Americas", 43-53 45th Street, (Queens-Sunnyside), 718-937-0553. These Cuy are imported from Ecuador, and are selling for $14/15, that's about half as much as the ones raised in New Jersey(?). Sorry, that's all I got.
  8. Peter B Wolf

    Extra Virgin

    Everyone: keep the "pressing wheels" and this thread "oiled", this is like getting credits for college. I learned more here on eGULLET in the last year of it's inception, then in my apprenticeship. And that was fifty years ago. Thanks, Jim and all others.
  9. Not Exactly what you are asking for, but on your way back, you might want to stop at these two places vs. some "schlepping" from other areas. Calais stores La Maison du Fromage, in rue André-Gerschel. December is an excellent season for Roquefort, Camembert, Pont-l'Évêque, Brie, Comté, Mont d'Or as runny as you could wish, Maroilles (the typical cheese of Northern France), Parmesan or Dutch Mimolette. For goat's cheese, it's best to wait until springtime. Chez Fred, the Boulangerie-Pâtisserie in Boulevard Jacquart, a short distance from the Hôtel de Ville, is famed throughout Calais for its brioches and its crusty French loaves. The local speciality, the "Calais", is a flaky pastry with almond biscuits garnished with coffee cream.
  10. "Angelina's Restaurant" in Parkville for Crab Cakes. They have a Web site.
  11. I found this on the web. Am trying to put together, the places I want to visit (and purchase whatever to satisfy my needs), whenever I'll be visiting my Brother-in-Law in Burke. I have a nice Northern VA map and a DC map in bookform, and after I have marked and highlighted the address(es), all dutyfully recorded with map pages and coordinates (grids) shopping is a cinch. It almost becomes a "drive-by". I am adding all the above listed ones to my records. Thanks. (Helps my relative too) http://www.eatwashington.com/
  12. This sounds fascinating, Peter. Do you know if they applied the charcoal as part of a dry rub, or did they moisturize the surface before sprinking? The charcoal was applied as a dry rub, directly onto the meat with it's own moisture. And the "they" was and is "I". Everyone thought it was funky (no one knew the word then), but consumer comments were great. I might want to mention, that we always placed the piece of meat (the rub was on for about 30 minutes only) into a handled frypan and placed it directly UNDER!! the broiler (Salamander type). Pieces of butter were constantly added, and the meat got turned in the pan quite frequent. So, always top heat only, and never more done then Medium Rare, then resting for at least 10 Minutes in a warm place, sliced thin against the grain and on the bias. "Succulent"! .. is a nice word, plus it reminds me of my Baby years (that's how good it was)
  13. Years ago, in the late Fifties, I had a purveyor from Boston, Bolton Smart, through him I got to know a cut called "Honeymoon Cut". Come to find out it was the same cut which is listed in "The Meat Buyers Guide", the official publication of the North American Meat Processors Association (NAMP), as ID#185A, Beef Loin, Buttom Sirloin Butt, Flap, Bonless; it is the tensor fasciae latae muscle, and looks a little bit like a boomerang. Steven Shaw is right, the point to point fold-over allows even broiling. "The Gunnery" and also "The Cheshire Cheese" Restaurant at the Sheraton Kimball Hotel in Springfield Mass. served this cut as London Broil, after sprinkling a mixture of crushed real charcoal, black pepper and Kosher salt on it.
  14. Again, from my files, and maybe a bit out of date. But try anyway. Shopping on rue des Martyrs Where to begin? You have five boucheries, three fromagers, three charcuteries, half a dozen greengrocers, a couple of excellent wine merchants, a bunch of boulangeries and a panoply of patisseries. Ignore if you can the temptations of Arnaud Delmonte, artisan boulanger et patissier, at number 39. Tartelettes au citron, dômes au chocolat and the best bread in the quartier (as the queue outside testifies). Serge Hermier (no 10) is every bit as good and the queue every bit as long (more than 20 speciality breads, try his Tresse des Martyrs brioche), and just round the corner at 21 rue Condorcet is the legendary M J-M Grolleau, who even lets you watch him baking his baguettes. A little way down the rue des Martyrs, at no 23, is Aux vrais produits d'Auvergne, a fine regional charcutier whose 18 varieties of saucisson I defy you to pass by. Fine foie gras is next door at no 25 (Aux jambons d'autrefois), while across the road at no 48 is M Mollard, my favourite cheesemonger - though La Fromagerie des Martyrs at no 5 is arguably better for chèvre, and does a notably lively camembert. Even if you decide not to burden yourself with any of this fare, spend an hour or so on the rue des Martyrs of a weekend morning. THERE are plenty of good Affineurs in the region, and some farther afield. The two best in Paris, in my view, are Roger Alleosse at 13, rue Poncelet, near the Arc de Triomphe in the 17th Arrondissement, and Marie-Anne Cantin, at 12, rue du Champs de Mars, across the Seine in the Seventh. Patissiers Pâtisserie Stohrer, 51, rue Montorgueil, 75002 Paris Pâtisserie Brocco , 180, rue du Temple, 75003 Paris Gérard Mulot , in St.-Germain-des-Prés - 76, rue de Seine, 75006 Paris
  15. Here is a list of my files. This should help. Paris Food Markets and Stores Parisian markets come in every shape, size, and specialty. Some are covered, some are street-side, some are nomadic. But you will find fresh fruits, ripe vegetables, colorful locals, and a delightful shopping experience at every single one. You may also find fresh seafood, whole rabbits, and the occasional eatery. The covered markets and market streets are open Tuesday-Sunday from 08:00-13:00h, and in the afternoons from 16:00-19:00h. The roaming markets appear more randomly throughout the week and are usually only open during in the morning. Market Streets : Rue Daguerre (14e) Metro: Denfert-Rochereau (4, 6, RER B) Rue Mouffetard (5e) Metro: Censier-Daubenton (7) Rue Montorguell (1er) Metro: Chatelet-Les Halles (RER A, B, D) Marche d'Aligre (12e) Metro: Ledru-Rollin (8) Rue de Levis (17e) Metro: Villiers (2, 3) Rue Poncelot (17e) Metro: Ternes (2) Rue Cler (7e) Metro: Ecole-Militaire (6) Daumesnil (6e) Metro: Mabillon (10) or Odeon (4, 10) Covered Markets Marche St-Germain (6e) Metro: Mabillon (10) Marche St-Quentin (10e) Metro: Gare de l'Est (4, 5, 7) Location: 85, bd Magenta Marche Passy (16e) Metro: La Muette (9) Location: rue Bois-le-Vent and rue Duban Roving Markets Daumesnil (12e) Metro: Daumensil (6, 8) Location: bd de Reuilly and pl Felix-Eboue Marche Bastille (11e) Metro: Bastille (1, 5, 8) Location: bd Richard-Lenoir Boulevard du Port-Royal (5e) Metro: Port-Royal (RER B) Place Monge (5e) Metro: Place Monge (7) Marche Biologique (6e) Metro: Sévres-Babylone (10, 12) Location: bd Raspail Avenue de Saxe (7e) Metro: Segur (10) Cour de Vincennes (12e) Metro: Nation (1, 6, 9, RER A) Boulevard Auguste-Blanqui (13e) Metro: Place d'Italie (5, 6, 7) or Corvisart (6) Location: Between Place d'Italie and Baurrault All are closed Monday, unless specified. Some of the best ones are: * Rue de Mouffetard (5e arrondissement, Metro: Cardinal Lemoine), one of the city's oldest, bursting with local color and produce; * Rue de Buci (6e arrondissement, Metro: Mabillon, open 8 AM-7:30 PM), with food as well as flowers in the nearby Carrefour de Buci (rue de Buci at rue Mazarine); * Marché St.-Germain (rue Mabillon at rue Clement, Metro: Mabillon, open 8 AM-7:30 PM); * Rue Cler (7e arrondissement, Metro: Ecole-Militaire), very upscale and excellent quality; * Marché Château-d'Eau, an ancient covered market—vegetarians stay clear of this one (10e arrondissement, Metro: Château d'Eau, open 8 AM-7:30 PM); * Marché St.-Quentin, historic, similar to old Les Halles market, with lots of gourmet goodies (85 boulevard Magenta, 10e arrondissement; Metro: Gare de l'Est, open 8 AM-1 PM, 3:30 PM-7:30 PM, Sunday to 1 PM only).
  16. Had two Hot Dogs yesterday at WASSES in Rockland Maine. Buns are terrible, just like Sunbeam bread, sticking to the roof of your mouth. Made another mistake: asked to have onions and mustard put on them (2), could not tell if the dogs were good or not. Will try next time without anything. But one good thing happened out of this, next door, and I mean next door, is "Brown Bag" a very nice Bakery and coffee shop. Great Muffins.
  17. Is that a genetic inarticulation or one acquired by living in the backwoods of Maine. My mama told me to watch out for country lawyers and backwood chefs. Thanks Bux, to keep it funny: It's the "genetic" one, plus I am only a retired Chef, living in the backwoods. I also am glad for not spelling it "backwards". Love your comment(s)
  18. Yes, right you are. But how does one know what Caviar is supposed to taste like, when he/she never had it. Does this go back to the "educated" palate?
  19. I don’t know why everyone is so adamant about “rights”, whether it’s the customer’s, the establishment’s or even the product’s. Adam asks simply what the behavior of the customer should have been. I think the customer (please note I do not specify “American”) should have accepted the way it was done. He, the customer, was in a different environment (country). And if he was referring to his human rights, he should get off his American supremacy notion and learn things can and are different somewhere else. And these differences should be accepted. No one in their right mind would go to a clothing store, see a blouse on the rack, like the style, but not the color and tell the sales person/owner to dye this item to their liking. They would just have to go somewhere else and find what they want. The same goes with cars; you don’t get Volkswagen with Caddy fins. Or did you hear about the guy who bought property in Nevada, and insisted to get an ocean view. Now you can take me apart, but don’t take my glasses, I won’t be able to read the blasting I’ll get.
  20. What an interesting post, as everyone indicated. From the backwoods of Maine a bit of additional commentary and inquiry. Excuse the inarticulate expression of mine. Inheritance by genes of tasting and smelling capabilities seems plausible to me, as I doubt my ability of tasting things (or the learning there of) came from experience. With so many shortages of even common and certainly uncommon foods during my upbringing (see BIO), I simply could not have known what certain smells and tastes were. But I did. When I entered my apprenticeship as cook at the tender age of 15 years, I was told by the chef(s) that I had good taste??!! Did an association of parents and grandparents, on both sides, with the culinary world have something to do with it? All were at one time or another owner or lessee of restaurants. Ok, that’s here and there. Let’s talk about the palate My comment to the post, of significance in my humble opinion, is that the utensils and or vessels play a larger role than often assumed. At least no one so far has made reference to this matter. It is one of the most important points to me. Educated or not. Why does a good wine (or a not so good one) taste better drunk out of a thin crystal glass?? Why does food (all) taste better eaten off china, and I mean porcelain, not stoneware?? Why do we recommend eating Caviar with an Ivory or at least Bone spoon?? Why is a black Tea from India so soothing when consumed out of the thinnest Limoges cup?? Why is Weizenbier drunk out of tall cone shaped thin glasses?? Question, questions and more if you want to hear them. But that’s my palate. And if it is science, educate me! Always willing to learn. Even at my age.
  21. Peter B Wolf

    Boiled Beef

    Steven, right you are, as most of the time. The only thing I have to say about it is, that in the German language there is no real word for to "braise", (except "geschmort" - which in turn would mean a "browned" end product) and "gekochtes Rindfleisch", or "Tafelspitz", translates to "boiled". Thanks for your always valued comment(s), and this is not ment demeaningly.
  22. Peter B Wolf

    Boiled Beef

    Steven, so please read my recipe for it and, yes, please comment
  23. Peter B Wolf


    i've been there, and i felt the service merited a solid 1.70 tip. on all occasions. but, as some might suggest, i'm a millionare. [note: that was all for my amusement and mine only...and yes, i've just amused myself, but probably not anyone else.] Tommy, You never fail to amuse me, even when you try to kid yourself. Just explain what is a "hayseed", I mean, hay is only dried grass, and there is seed for that. Explain. Unless this falls in the category of "unique", like me growing "home fried potatoes on the vine"
  24. You might be thinking of Gerolsteiner, others are Appolinaris, Rosbacher and/or Fachinger (the last one actually has medicinal value)
  25. Peter B Wolf

    Boiled Beef

    Steven -- When you have a chance, could you consider describing why you consider this thread to represent the board "at its best"? Because I just added a couple of Dollars worth of wisdom. Read on: Recipes in detail are not provided often enough on these threats. I think some of this has to do with the inherent sophistication of posters. Some might say “mine is not good enough”, others may feel inadequate to their “eGullet peers”. But reading is learning, and writing can be learning as well. Especially when writing gets read, and commented about. As it is on eGullet. So here it goes. My way of “Boiled Beef”, as it is directly adopted from Oma, and even approved of by my cousin’s wife, who is an aristocrat from Vienna, and swears by her “Tafelspitz”. Make a Mirepoix of Carrots, Knob Celery (Rave), Rutabaga, Onion, Garlic and Parsley Stems. Lightly brown in fresh slaughtered Porkfat, deglaze vessel with previously reduced Balsamic Vinegar (the cheaper kind, Fat Guy once mentioned somewhere else how to make this) add a little of a dry Riesling, reducing all to a moist stew type mixture. For the “Beef”, buy a fresh (not corned) Brisket, make sure it’s the full size one with Deckel, and it should be USDA Choice grade. Probable weight is around eight pounds +. Place the meat in a “Brassiere” (roasting pan with tight fitting lit) surrounded by the Mirepoix, two/three Bay Leaves, a handful whole black Peppercorns, and two/three whole Cloves, a half a Cinnamon stick, and a half a whole, but slightly smashed Nutmeg. The zested peel of a Lemon and a handful Juniper Berries will do wonders. Now add enough cold Water as to one third of the height of the Beef in the pan, plus some Salt, and cover. The more snug the meat fits the pan the least water is needed, resulting in a more flavorful broth at the end of braising. Place into a preheated oven (375F) for about 30-min. Now reduce heat to 275F and leave this alone for two more hours. Remove and let cool in its broth (uncovered) overnight. Your windowsill will be just fine, no refrigeration needed. Next day, lift meat from broth, “papertowle” it dry, place on carving board and slice against grain about 1/3 inch thick. Keep slices together. Strain broth and adjust seasoning with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar, heating first. Place sliced meat into individual shallow bowls (European soup plates are ideal) warm very briefly in a Microwave, then pouring the heated broth over it. Serve immediately. The whole thing only sprinkled with chopped Italian Parsley and a few grains Sea Salt (Kosher Salt would do). And now to the rest of the story. No “Tafelspitz” is finished without the proper Horseradish. And that is done the Wolf’s way: Scrub, peel and hand grate a fresh very firm Horseradish root. You will cry a bit, but will get no cold for the rest of the year. Now, by volume, grate peeled and cored Granny Smith Apples, to amount to one third of the radish. Mix all, again by volume, with equal parts of Mayonnaise, Cream Cheese and whipped up Heavy Cream to one third of the amount of both, radish and apples. Add a bit of Lemon Juice and a pinch of Salt. This should be done at least a day or more in advance of the boiled beef. Covered and refrigerated, this mixture will keep for weeks on end. As a matter of fact it will “grow” hotter. Many “k.&k. Wiener” will want to shoot me (possibly). I’ll try harder next time, I promise.
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