theabroma

Nemecek's Butcher Shop on Main St. in West, Texas (about 15 miles north of Waco on I-35), South Side Market in Elgin, Texas (on down I-35, and then off on 290, closer to Austin). Theabroma

In restaurants throughout the City and State of Puebla, 99.99% of the chiles en nogada I've seen have been battered. From what I can tell that is, at least for some time now, the 'traditional' way of serving them. Go figure. I think I can safely say that it's just way too much. I like that batter, and, when you think about it, if you can use something protein based (finely ground chicharrones, etc) to roll a stuffed chile in so there is enough traction for the batter to hold, a chile relleno can be made (God forgive me!) Atkins-friendly. But the combination of that batter and that cream and nut sauce is just way over the top. Theabroma

I got to cook these for a conference dinner in Puebla - and the poblanos we had were easily 10" long. You can now buy the nueces de Castillo - that special variety of walnut, harvested when it is just ripe, and the meat is still soft - in bags frozen, which makes it easier to make the salsa de nogada. I did discover after talking to a lot of Poblanos (the people, not the chiles!!) that many families do not dip the filled peppers in the egg yolk/egg white batter and fry them. They serve them 'naked', at room temp with the sauce, flat parsley leaves and pomegranite seeds. I like them best this way because the traditional picadillo filling is incredibly rich and somewhat sweet with fruits and acitron, and the batter just puts it over the top. Don't know why, but this seems to be the time to get the mutant chiles out. One typical serving of chile en nogada would easily feed two people. But omigod they're good! Theabroma

For the omnivore, Julie Sahni's Classic Indian Cooking and for the herbivore, Jamuna Devi's Lord Krishna's Cuisine. They are both solid, well researched, and well rounded. Readable and highly cookable, the results are 'authentic.' I consider them to be the Julia Child or Diana Kennedy of Indian Cooking ... work your way through either and then you are ready to tackle the more regional, formal, traditional, or arcane. Theabroma

Does anyone make Black Cake for Christmas? Or know any great places to buy it? Or have any good recipes. I am trying to complete a history on it ... and want to find out how it's made and finished in different areas and homes. Theabroma

Fried in schmaltz, golden, crunchy, and served with lingonberry jam. God, I'm going to cry! Theabroma

Puebla is 1.5 hours by bus out of the Mx City Airport. I think that you can also get a Oax bus there. Oax is about 4-5 hours out of Puebla on the highway ... scenery is nice, but the truly scenic route takes way too long for a quick trip! The Puebla-Veracruz drive is about 5-6 hours (to Veracruz, Ver.). If you can get the bus to stop in Perote, on the route, you can snag some of the jamon serrano they make there. It's cheap and it's very, very good. There is also a flight out of either Houston or Corpus Christi direct to Veracruz, Ver., that would be worth considering if you wanted to cut some time and bypass Mx City. Theabroma

I was in Puebla, and in several tiny pueblos around Tlaxcala, plus I lucked out and was invited to attend an ofrends (altar) building workshop in Tlaxcala at the house of Yolanda Ramos Galicia, an anthropologist with INAH who studies some Nahuatl and Otomi villages in the area. I ducked out of going to the town of Huaquechula, Puebla, with the IACP group - it seemed a bit over done, and, subsequently it was mentioned in that vein by writers for La Jornada, a Mx City daily. We built an altar at a friend's home ... made tamales, mole, and calabaza en tacha (chilacayote squash candied in unrefined sugar syrup), and some panecitos de muerto. Her grandfather liked brandy and cigars, which we drank and smoked on the afternoon of Nov. 2, after the spirits had left. But the most beautiful sights were to be had in the graveyards and churchyards throughout the rural areas of the country: candles, food, flowers - the orange cempoalxochitl (marigold), cock'scombs, and a white flower like big baby's breath. So many people, families, gathered in the yards, cleaning graves and turning fresh earth over them, placing special treats for the departed. It is a tradition that the graves of those who have no one caring for them become the joint project of all families in the yard, each contributing some flowers, candles, and food. Late into the incredible inky darkness of a rural Mexican night, these campos santos have a deeply stirring, unearthly beauty. I was fortunate to have been invited to some homes for a drink or a bite of food, and every one I entered had an altar thickly decorated once again with food, candles, flowers, photos, and mementos of the departed. The most sweetly elegant touch is the wide swath of marigold petals which lead from the street into the home and up to the altar ... they are strewn there to lead the spirits back to their homes. Oaxaca still has some wonderful celebrations - but it's best to go way out inot the boondocks to observe them. It has been so visited, photographed, and invaded, tthat it is almost like a spring break in Ft. Lauderdale ritual, and it can be, sadly, very commercialized. I have never been to Patzcuaro and Janitzio, but I have seen photos and heard stories. It is still quite traditional and exquisite there, and the Purepecha traditions are a bit different. Although I left Veracruz before the observance began, I did see some ofrendas in the north around Papantla in the Totonac region. They are distinguished, in part, by being suspended from the house's rafters rather than being set on the floor. Also, in some regions there it is believed that the spirits come until Nov. 30, so they have a full month before returning to their spirit home. It is a wonderful tradition, but alas, in the cities it is being crossbred with a lot of the tackier, more commercial aspects of Hallowe'en. I am, of course, highly susceptible to getting myself to Mexico during Muertos, and can be easily convinced ... Fifi called me out on that one! Theabroma

What??!! No slivovitz apres Tagamet? But, Rebbe .... !!! zei gezunt ... Theabroma

From time to time you will find them in Central Market and in some of the larger Asian markets. Problem is, I have no idea when their season is. I'll check it out. Theabroma

Healy & Bugat, Mastering the Art of French Pastry The entire 54 volume set of CONACULTA´s Recetario Indigena Theabroma

Several years ago, and from time to time it would surface in Austin. There was, at the end of the 80's real estate boom before the S&L busts, a rash of gallery openings in Austin. For whatever odd and wonderful reason a Haitian gentleman opened a gallery, Erzulie Freda, in the little warehouse dist, which was just beginning to awaken to a new life. At the opening he served canapes and cocktails, including p'tit ponch. Lurking at the back of the bar were 3 bottles of 30 yr old Barbancourt. I think that he and I were about the only two who drank it. After that, and only very sporadically, I would find a bottle in one of the two specialty liquor stores in Austin. I haven't seen it in a long time. I suppose that it is available in the Caribbean, and certainly in Haiti. I have been looking for it in Mexico, expecially when I was in Veracruz, but I have not seen any Barbancourt at all. I am finding Bacardi, of course, and Appleton Estates. Otherwise the quality rums of choice are Havana Clubs of 3, 5, & 7 years and Ron Mathuselam, blanco and anejo. Theabroma

Haiti's Barbancourt and Barbancourt 30 yr. The first in a very good, tall glass over ice, and the 30 yr up in a good crystal snifter. The best best rum on the planet to my taste. Theabroma

Some Bacaradi is made in Mexico. But ... eh. I have developed a grand liking for Havana Club 5 or 7, and Ron Mathusalen, both Cuban, and both wonderful. Since you cannot get them at home, and they will draw and quarter you if you try to bring them across, that't what I'd suggest. Theabroma

I was reduced to tears and hysterical laughter while reading this article. I never would have suspected that a bissel schmaltz, years out of New York, would have the power of a Proustian petit-four. I suddenly remembered jars of a blasphemous substance called "Nyafat", sort of a faux schmaltz with half the calories, 200% the chemicals, and none of the fun - a precursor of "lite" mayo. Then there was (please, tell me there still is) a restaurant near Houston St. called the Parkway. Their amuse-guele was a plate of sliced rye and black breads, a dish of Kosher salt, garlic dill pickle spears, and shredded black radish, the whole plate crowned by a diner-style syrup dispenser jar of something creamy and yellowish. It was schmaltz. The drill was to but black radish on the bread of choice, salt it, and then drench it in the schmaltz. They also served the best brisket I have ever eaten - and for a bbq-addicted Texan, that's saying a lot. I didn't stay there long enough to earn a stent, but I'm more than willing to go back and give it a shot! Theabroma

Hello out there the rest of the state!!!!! Surely there are tamales in San Antonio? I've got to have something to eat to deal with tamal withdrawal on my way home. They won't let me bring them across the border. Theabroma

Richard, you know what I was thinking? Instead of me hauling all those corn husks and tamaleras up there, why don't we just have the tamalada down here? And the tamal tasting? That way I'd have more room in the Pobre Coche for molcajetes! Theabroma, who has reluctantly excepted the fact that she will have to have her Pobre Coche and her rear end back in Texas on 12/20. She would also like to add that any bright object appearing in the Southern or Southwestern sky between now and Christmas will not, in fact, be the Star of Bethlehem, but the supernova created by her hyper-gassed MasterCard! Pax.

Richard, Help! I think I just tasted the soles of both my size 10's in my mouth! I am now in San Pedro Cholula in the State of Puebla. Among other things, it is the oldest continually inhabited city in the Americas - from 560 bc. And as a result they have a total of 400 celebrations, fiestas, and saint's days each year. The point is that the Cholulatecans eat tamales at every festival, plus the morning tamal in a roll with a cup of atole to get their strength up for all the celebrating and tamale eating they have to do that day. Point is that tamales are in fact eaten all the time. They are especially associated with Christmas, especially for us in the States, mainly because we are not blessed with bike riding, itinerant tamal vendors at each street corner. So if there is to be a tamalada, combined with or independent of a tamale tasting, it really can be anytime. Maybe the tamal tasting first, then later the tamal making event? I still think we can publish the results in the well-known Journal of Tamal and Masa Snack Studies. I feel certain that the drug companies selling any of the statins - zocor, lipitor, etc. - will be happy to fund the inaugural issue. Theabroma

This went down the wrong pipe, sorry! T,

Fifi, girl, what are ya waiting for? Get over there to Friendswood and get some of those babies and let us know how they are!! Shoot, I'll go home through Houston to grab some depending on what you say! Thanks for the tip, Venado. Theabroma

For Persian rice, first of all you want ultra long grain rice: basmati, or, if you can find it, dom siah, so called because of a thin black stripe or "black tail" down the grain. There are two basic ways of cooking Persian rice: the first, kateh, is where you rinse the rice, put it in a pot, touch the tip of your straightened index finger to the surface of the rice, and pour in water until it comes up to the 1st bend in the finger above the nail. Bring to a boil, then simmer until holes appear on the surface. Cover with a towel, then a lid or plate, weighted down, and simmer about 10 more minutes, or until done. The other is chelo: where the rice is soaked, then drained, then boiled like pasta in salty water. Cook it until only the barest bit of opaque white core remains in the grains - 6-7 minutes usually. You want it al dente. Drain, rinse w/hot water, and drain thoroughly. In a heavy, straight sided, wide bottomed pot (hey, this takes time to get the tah dig to form, may as well go for it), over rather high heat add 2-3T water and butter, ideally enough to cover the bottom of the pan by at least 1/8". At this point you can go ahead and spoon the rice into the pot, or if you want to get fancy, mix in a little yoghurt, and/or an egg yolk, and some saffron with about 2 c of the rice. You want it to adhere but not to be gloppy. Place this in the pot in one layer, but do not tamp down. Spoon the rest of the rice into the pot, letting it mound of its own accord. Turn the head down to low - on a gas stove this usually means that the flames are just below the burner ring. On an electric stove, heat up a second burner to low, and move the pot over. On electric, make sure that you use a really thick bottomed pot, and keep an eye on it. Place a folded turkish towel over the top of the pot, cover it, weight the cover down and simmer for 35-40 minutes. When you stick a mouth-moistened index finger to the side of the pot about 3" from the bottom, and it goes sszzzzzzzzt! you're almost there. Remove the weight, lid, and carefully remove the towel, keeping your head back to avoid steam burns. Remove the pot from the stove, and immerse it about 3" up the sides in a sink (or bowl) full of cold water. Spoon out loose rice, then put a large plate over the mouth of the pan. Do the jello salad release thing: holding the plate firmly against the pot, invert rapidly and give a smart downward jerk. The tah dig ("bottom of the pot") should release and land on the plate in one golden brown, crunchy piece (if not, that's why we have pancake turners). Place on the table for all to admire - as it should be - and then break into pieces to serve with the loose rice scooped out of the pot. As you develop confidence in the technique, you can add very thinly sliced potatoes or single layers of pita bread on top of the yoghurt/egg/rice mixture before spooning in the plain rice. You can use just yolk, or just yoghurt. Only one word of warning: this is one of the most highly addictive preparations known to humankind. You will wind up absolutely craving it. And when you learn to toss an egg yolk onto a bowl of hot, hot rice and mix it around with a little butter and a coupla hunks of tah dig, you're talking breakfast of champions. Theabroma

Dallas Tortilla Factory Tamales vs. La Popular Tamales - that's a hard one. Rather than take the Fifth, I'd have to say that my gustatory - but not metabolic - good fortune to be able to sample tamales all over Mexico - especially in rural markets - has broadened my notion of what a tamal is. Generally speaking, the more rural and remote the area, the more spongy, and less dense the masa, and the more simple and more flavorful bang-for-the-buck the filling. I have come to really like the almost fluffy, spongy filling. The amount of fat used in making the masa is less, as well. So, based on that, I prefer the tamales from La Popular. I find the masa less dense than Dallas Tortilla, and I find that they generally have a wider range of fillings. However, the fillings that I have come to love - a ripping hot green salsa, strips of jalapenos or chile poblano, etc. you have to special order from any of the local tamal houses. Dallas tamale will, more regularly, have sweet tamales. La Popular is the only one that I know of that has the black eyed pea ones. But, I do like the tamales from Dallas Tortilla, and I also like the tamales from Luna's, and Hot Damn Tamales! from Ft. Worth. The Hot Damn ones have a wide selection of 'nouvelle' fillings: brisket, black beans, etc. I do know that Hot Damn, Luna's, and Dallas Tortilla use machines to make theirs. I don't know about La Popular, but my guess is yes. (This is a great research project for me when I get back). I do know that you can get handmade tamales from Luna's, and they may have a certain quantity available on the weekends, but you most likely have to order them. And they are a little more expensive. Maybe the Dallas eGulleteers need to have a tamale taste test to compare what's available? In homage to Fifi, we could caravan between locations eating a couple in our cars? Theabroma

It disturbs me even more to see 'liberal', and undefined at that, equated with a government inserting itself, and for craven, cowardly, self serving reasons - like re-election - into the position of a scary social arbiter, with grave consequences for livelihood and personal safety, as well as large fines for the hemorrhaged public coffers. There are names for governments that can develop from trying to control behavior in "insignifigant' issues like these, and they have ugly track records all over the history books. And that name is not 'liberal'. I am a little more concerned about the consequences to us as a society from one more minute of the Patriot Act than I am from a ton of pate de foie gras. Theabroma

Well, in Dallas you need to try La Popular on Columbia. It's at the corner of Fitzhugh and Columbia/Main St, just east of Danal's. Mild pork, hot port, chicken, beef, bean, sweet, and for New Year's, black eyed pea - hot 'n' spicy, and heavenly. This time of year it is best to go early or to put in an order - especially for the black eyed pea ones. These guys make their own masa, so these are really tasty, tender items. Note to Fifi: how to drive and eat tamal at the same time: a) get A LOT of napkins at the tamaleria as you're leaving. Don't be shy about the knowing looks you'll be getting - they KNOW what you're doing with all those napkins. They do the same thing. b) have newspaper - or buy one (the Dallas Morning Snooze is, in my book, printed just for this purpose). Put it on the seat next to you. Place bag of tamales on newspaper, put napkins between seat back and tamal bag. c) start car, engage gears, stream into traffic. Personally I find freeway traffic easier to deal with than neighborhood or neighborhood collector streets - too many other people in their cars eating tamales on the sly. Their hands get greasy and slip on the shift knob or steering wheel, creating awkward turns and speed changes, plus in panic tamal falls and slides down leg to floor of car. Foot jerks to knock it away, but it gets on sole of shoe. Inattention to road due to attention to spicy grease slick on leg, leads to tailgaiting. In attempt to avoid rear ending the next car, foot applied briskly to brake pedal slides off due to stepped-in tamal residue. Get the picture? It ain't pretty. d) although you can pre-open tamal bag, this is really cheating. Once you have the car moving through traffic at a steady pace, and you have a sense of flow patterns, remove right hand from steering wheel and reach into tamal bag. Insert hand into neck of bag, and open fingers widely - thus opening the neck of the bag. Next, feel the foil package of tamales and make sure that they are running longways back of the seat to the dash rather than driver door to passenger door. Now, insert your index finger into the foil, and gently inchworm it down the length of the tamales. Make sure that the opening is long enough to permit lifting one out without having to tug at it. e) ease a tamal out and put it on top of the bag. Push the tie off (if there is one). Flip the tail of the tamal open, grasping the body of the tamal with your thumb and 2nd through 4th finger. Use your index finger to run down the flap of the corn husk. Now grasp the opened flap with your index finger and your thumb, and with a smart wrist snap the tamal should roll out onto the bag, leaving you with the husk in your hand. Slip this back into the bag. f) Calm yourself at this point. Think about what's waiting for you. Make sure that you are still feeling the flow of traffic. g) pick up the tamal, in all its glistening nekkid glory and munch away. you will, undoubtedly be wearing something on top that is made of either cashmere or silk. You will have scarfed tamal No. 1 without incident, and you're now feeling pretty frisky. You go for no. 2. h) almost to your destination, you realize that you've decimated half of your stash. You call yourself to task, readjust yourself in your seat, sitting up and forward a little more, but with greater resolve. At this point the smell is all about you, and the well-described after-tamal niceness in the mouth is more than you can bear. You go for another one, not really caring if you are wearing chinchilla, polyester, or sack cloth and ashes, when something hooks the corner of your left eye. You snap your head around, half tamal protruding from your mouth, bits of masa settled into your cleavage, and pork in red chile sauce polkadotting your blouse to find that the car that has pulled up next to you at the stop light has Johnny Depp in the passenger seat, and that he is staring right at whatever that funny thing you have in your mouth is. And the real problem is you're about to swallow what remains of the last one, and you haven't anything but greasy cornhusks to offer as an explanation. Who says you can't eat tamales in the car? I'd love to hear about the tamales people get and where they get them in other parts of Texas. Does anyone remember them from the Green & White Grocery in Austin? Should we plan a Texas Tamalada (tamale-making party, involves tankers of beer)? Theabroma

Ciudad is - at least in my opinion - wonderful. And this would also be my answer to your mole question. There are some hard-core, tiny Mexican fondas where you can occasionally find excellent mole, but they are scattered in very hidden places throughout the city and don't always have it regularly on the menu. There is now a 'little sister' Cafe Pegaso in Downtown Dallas, modeled on a Mexican fonda economica. As for mole, if Ciudad still has it on the menu have the short ribs of beef in mole coloradito, and also the duck flautas. While you are there be sure to order the dessert called Edificio - it is good, and the presentation is one of the most clever, yet simple I have seen. As for Ethiopian - ouch. Queen of Sheba on Lemmon, my favorite and my standby, has closed. Dallul, I believe, is still open. There is another one, fairly new, called Addis Ababa that I have heard good things about. Check the listings in the Dallas Observer, or, send Mark Stuertz, the restaurant reviewer, an e-mail inquiring about Ethiopian. (www.dallasobserver.com) Calle Doce has the same menu basically. The have a second location on Skillman just north of Live Oak, slightly above the Pour House. I still prefer the original one in the rambling frame house on, well, Calle Doce in Oak Cliff. The Calle Doce folks also own El Ranchito at the corner of Jefferson Blvd and Llewellyn. It has some great roasted and grilled meats, including really good fajitas, and sweetbreads (mollejas), as well as superb caldo de res (until 2 pm only, daily). No mole, though. Sorry about the Ethiopian - I'm jonesing for an injeera fix, myself. Regards, Theabroma