theabroma

Southside Market in Elgin. Giddings Market in Giddings, and Nemecek's in West ... especially Nemecek's. And, if it's still there, Bertsch's Market in Fayetville. Also Smitty's BBQ in Lockhart. Sorry, that's as close to Houston as I know! Theabroma

I just did a series of series of reviews of ethnic food locations in Richardson which will appear in the July/August issue of Richardson Living. I covered both Jasmine Market and Hubble Bubble Cafe (their full business name!) as well as Afrah, which is on Main Street, just east of Greenville. Where Jasmine's strengths lie are in their fabulous selection of Middle Eastern groceries - jarred artichoke hearts, 3" across, 7-8 to a jar for $5.00, rose petal jam, fruit syrups for flowery summer drinks, and weirdly wonderful canned Turkish goat cheese. The shawarma (giros) are great, as is the lamb stew. The sweets are ok. Afrah, on the other hand, while they do serve a lunch and dinner menu, of lamb, chicken, and beef, and it is good, will have you slappin' your mama over their pastry and gelato. All traditional and French pastries are made on premises (by Moody - short for Mahmood; he appears to have a fairly level, genial sense of humor), who has trained in Lebanon, and Europe. This is the 5th Afrah - the other locations are all in and around Beirut. The pastries are incredibly hard-core authentic, and hand made. The gelato is obscenely richly flavored - case in point either the blackberry or pistachio. Oh, and they make their own pita bread and bake it to the order in a funny oven in the corner of the store that looks like a South Seas black metal hut on stilts. How cool is it to stand there and watch as YOUR bread is peeled onto the gas fired, open front oven floor where it begins to puff up and brown. Well, its not quite as cool as taking the first bite out of it. It will ruin you on plastic bagged grocery store pita forever. But the absolutely coolest thing is that both Afrah and Jasmine will set you up with a 3" tall narghile - or water pipe (hubble bubble), complete with the traditional honeyed tobaccos perfumed with fruit. They will ensconce you on their patios, and you can just kick back, smoke, and watch the valets park the flying carpets out front. Seriously, it is most relaxing, and it is a very different way of enjoying tobacco. While you're at it, have a coffee and pastry or ice cream. Both places have been open 1-1 1/2 years. They are a very welcome addition to the Metroplex. Odd that they have opened in what surely must be rather tough times, but glad to see that they are flourishing. Go, eat, smoke, enjoy! Theabroma

Stepping in for Zora, and trying to fathom format and how to, here, finally, is May 2004, Saveur's first all-wine issue. Relax, there's still wunnerful stuff to cook and eat Regards, Theabroma Saveur, May 2004 – First All-Wine Issue First: Cork and Fork: Some things just naturally belong together. Colman Andrews plays marriage counselor to feared split up of food and wine. Saveur Fare: Wine for the Masses: Oh! Holy Grapes … Cormòns Winery braves the politics of competition to create and supply the Vatican with Vinum pro Sancta Missa, a surprisingly fine wine for the Holy Mass. By Denise Kiernan. Better Ground: Champagne cleans up its dirty little secret. Non! to plastic, pesticides, and rampant botrytis as growers “get green.” By Patrick Matthews. Pickin’ and Grinnin’: The first crush is the deepest. Richard Haake, Cakebread’s chef by day/Dirt Floor Cellar’s rogue vintner by night, saves a measure of his artisanal case for the kitchen. By Tony Poer Recipe: Acqua Pazza/Striped Bass in Chardonnay Sauce Let’s See the One for Château Janet Jackson: A blush of x-rated wine label art. By Mort Hochstein. Famous Potatoes, Darn Good Wine: Pocatello, Idaho (pop. 53,000) where potatoes and pinot get along just fine. By Penelope Reedy. On the Side: It had to happen: www.winesingles.com is a 10-month old online dating service based in Walnut Creek, California. Degustazioni d’Arte, a self-guided tour book presenting “oeno-centric artwork”. Achille Castiglioni’s “Paro” Glass, featuring both sipping and slurping possibilities, is on exhibit at the Cooper-Hewitt Design Museum; We love phonics: the new How to Pronounce French, German, and Italian Wine With names of more than 15,000 wines, varietals, etc. Interesting indications from a VinExpo gender study on whether wine knowledge makes one more alluring to one’s intended. By Kelly Alexander. One Good Bottle: Blackstone Santa Lucia Highlands Reserve Chardonnay ($26): "… luscious …, thankfully not disfigured with oak, …” Book Review: Mighty Tasty is the only way to describe The Brady Book: Selections from Roy Brady’s Unpublished Writings on Wine., the previously unpublished pieces by a little-known wine writer. A collection of greatly overdue, and wonderfully lucid writings on wine. Wine Fact, Wine Opinion: The recent crush of excellent wine books in English are published by London-based Mitchell Beazley, with particular kudos to commissioning editor Hilary Lumsden. By Coleman Andrews. Agenda Grampians Grape Escape Wine & Food Festival, Halls Gap, Australia; Establishment of Château Mouton-Rothschild 1853, Pauillac, France; Winds & Wine Festival, Leesburg, Virginia; Americas Wild Rivers Coast Art, Seafood & Wine Festival, Gold Beach, Oregon; Blossom Days, Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan; Foire aux Vins d’Alsace, Guebwiller, France; Commemoration of The Judgment of Paris, 1976, Paris, France; Feria Internacional del Queso y del Vino de Tequisquiapan, Quéretaro, México. Cellar: Unyielding Riesling. Chardonnay largely replaced it, but in Australia it’s still the queen of grapes. By John Winthrop Haeger. Tasting notes Includes 12 fine Australian Rieslings form the Clare region and its neighbors – from Annie’s Lake Riesling 2003 ($14) to Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2003 ($29) Essay: Tippling Points There is nothing wrong with comparing wines, but do we have to keep score? Musings on the ultimate futility of scorecards and how St. Peter will likely receive Robert Parker’s 100-Point Scale. By Michael Steinberger. Reporter: The Cooper’s Craft Over the centuries, little has changed about wine barrels except how vintners use them. Includes a wonderfully detailed series of staves-to-barrel photos. By Kathleen Brennan. Lives: The Odd Couple. Two obsessive, very different vintners in New York’s Finger Lakes region shaped the course of East Coast winemaking. By Mort Hochstein Source : Drinking in Style When it comes to wine-related antiques, this dealer has the goods. Patricia Throttle, with a name from Casting Central, is one of Britain’s leading sources for vintage corkscrews, flagons, and other viniferous accoutrements. By Rope Bhattacharya Classic : Meat Sauce Steak, butter, and wine – what’s not to like?? Marchland de VIN is still basic black and a string of pearls for a great steak. By Laura Kiernan Recipe: Biotech Marchand de Vin (Steak with Red Wine Sauce Italian Ferment : The Veneto, home of Soave, Valpolicella, and Amarone, has become Italy’s biggest wine producer – and one of its best. Visits with Leonildo Pieropan, Sandro Boscaini, Giuseppe Quintarelli, and others. By Patrick Matthews. Recipes: Risotto all’Amarone (Amarone Risotto), Brasato all’Amarone (Beef Braised in Amarone), Tagliatelle “Enbogonè (Tagliatelle with Borlotti Bean Sauce), Pissota con l’Oio (Olive Oil Cake), and Tortel (Wild Herb Frittata). Tasting Notes: Ca’Rugate San Michele Soave Classico 2002 ($11) to Quintarelli Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 1995 ($300) Sidebar: Olive Oil and Horsemeat Despite the largesse of the woods and fields, the Veronese kitchen is known for its facility with meat, including horse and donkey – specialties dating to Roman times. The Guide: Hotels, Restaurants and Wineries in the Verona Wine Region The Ebro Runs Through It: Spain’s Rioja wine country is laced with rivers flowing timelessly onward – but a spirit of change percolates in the region’s vineyards and bodegas. Ranging through La Rioja, Spain’s premier fly-fishing area … and home of the tempranillo grape. By George Semler. Recipes: Menestra de Verduras con Lechecillas (Stewed Fried Vegetables with Lamb Offal) Patatas a la Riojana (Potatoes Stewed with Paprika and Chorizo) Esparragos Naturales a la Parrilla con Mahonesa de Hongos (Grilled White Asparagus with Mushroom Mayonnaise) Pimientos del Piquillo Trucha a la Riojana (Trout Stuffed with Serrano Ham) Tasting Notes: 14 wines from the Rioja region, from Marqués de Riscal Reserva 1999 ($17) to Roda Cirsión 2000 ($195) The Guide ) Hotels, Restaurants, and Wineries in the Rioja region. Kings of the Rhône: For the Chaves of Hermitage fame, making great wine and eating wonderful food is a way of life. Life at the vineyard, the family home and the family business, since1481. By Michael Steinberger. Recipe: Poireaux Grilles et Ail Étuvé sur Pain Grillé (Grilled Leeks and Stewed Garlic on Toast) Côtelettes d’Agneau sur la Braise avec Crique Ardéchoise (Grilled Lamb Chops with a Potato Pancake) Saladier de Pieds de Veau (Calves’ Feet Salad) Foie Gras Souvarov (Potted Foie Gras with Black Truffles) Poulet de Bresse Farci aux Asperges (Stuffed Bresse Chicken with Asparagus) Gâteau au Chocolat « Marie-José » (Marie-José’s Chocolate Cake) Tasting Notes: Five wines from currently available vintages, from St-Joseph Offerus 2001 ($24) to Hermitage Rouge 2001 ($180) The Future of Wine?: Rob Sinskey is no tree hugger; he just thinks that organic viticulture produces better things to drink. The move to organic viticulture is flowing from the small artisanal producers to the bigger guys like Fetzer Bonterra and Clos du Bois. By John Frederick Walker. Recipes: Baby Beets with Herb Salad and Warm Chèvre Crostini of Wild Mushrooms Halibut Cheeks with Baby Leeks, Peas, and Fines-Herbes Gnocchi Sidebar: Organic Rules History of organic grape growing and the critera which must be met for certification. Mr. Biodynamic The complex, holistic agriculture theories of Rudolf Steiner … if it helps them make better wine, why snicker? Tasting Notes: A Magnificent Seven fro the Sinskey Vineyards, from Vin Gris of Pinot Noir 2003 ($16) to RSV Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 ($50). In the Saveur Kitchen: Techniques and Discoveries from Our Editors and Recipe Testers An American Transplant: Erin Cannon-Chave’s mother’s flaxseed crackers, Italian Priorities: the serious jewel-box sized kitchen of Darrell Corti, of San Francisco’s premier Italian grocers, Corti Brothers Flavor Cubed: glorious and essential glace de viande – the essence of stock Sweet Endings: a crumbly almond shortbread, and specialty of Mantua Recipes: Flaxseed Crackers Glace de Viande Sbrisolona (Crumbly Almond Cake) Fines-Herbes Gnocchi In the Saveur Library: Italian Cuisine by Tony May (Italian Wine and Food Institute, 1990) The Spanish Table by Marimar Torres (Doubleday, 1986) Moment: 2:00p.m., April 5, 2001, London At the Ivor Spencer International School, butlers in training perfect their posture. By Martin Parr/Magnum.

I remember swamp-dark duck gumbo with a voodoo soul. Still on the menu? CH is always a good pick. Theabroma

Sorry there, Fifi. I found myself licking the screen. Pretty great tradition. How on earth did Tiki Island get its name? Theabroma

You have unmasked the red-head in Red Zinger tea! It's positively loaded w/Vit C, so aside from being pretty and tasty, it's actually good for you. Can't say that about too many things these days... Oh yeah, it's also low in carbs ... if you use Splenda. I say that because I have many students in classes who forever question what can be done with this or that thing to make it low net carb. BTW if you can steep the blossoms in simple syrup, freeze it in ice cube trays (it you don't have an ice cream maker) and then whizz them in a food processor to make a Hibiscus granita (red slushie).. It's a real useful addition to the pantry. Theabroma

Pressure cookers are all grown up, and out of their braces and training bras. They are much safer, and much more elegant. They can be quite expensive as well. I, too, adore flan. And so I have been eyeing a pressure cooker myself. Got the ganas bad for a Kuhn Rikon, but will have to counterfeit coin of the realm to be able to afford one. I've been threatening to take a few days R&R and hop down to Monterrey. If the p'cookers there are sturdy shall I bring a few back???? They are also so great for beans and soups, etc. Theabroma

Hah, Sharon... this is getting to be like that Groundhog Day movie! That question you posed was exactly the impetus for the Turkish potluck we had back in January! Acccck! Fitz! I could say that hope springs eternal and someone heard the need and responded ... or, maybe it's just time for me to get an MRI????!!!!! Theabroma PS: See, that's what I get for not being able to come.

Don't push it Jess ... I'm gearing for a move back to Austin and was just visiting in Houston, and I'm kinda afraid that the answer may be 'yes.' I don't think either of us really want to hear that!!! The market sounds wonderful, and futher, it sounds like there is a lot of market activity in Houston. I didn't know that Fiesta had classes???!!! Austin has had a Saturday market for the last year or so, smack downtown. There's another farmers' market out on Burnet (help me Jess, do I mean Lamar??) that's run by Hill Rylander, scion of an eponymous, one time local grocery chain in Austin, and the Comptroller's (Carole Keeton Strayhorn) ex. It is run in a manner that would go a long way to possibly explaining the fate of the grocery chain. And of course the Farmer's Market in Dallas is sort of a mess ... lots of furniture, tchatchkes, and reselling of produce purchased from many of the wholesale purveyors surrounding the market sheds. Too bad, it's a good physical facility in a good part of downtown. So Houston gets the golden tomato award by a mile. Theabroma

It just occurred to me that you said you made the tea with the jamaica flowers (Hibiscus sabdariffa; 'sorrel' in Jamaica). Mexicans also make an aqua fresca out of it - I guess it would qualify as and iced tea. hey steep the flowers in very hot water, and sweeten to taste. I have also had it with lime juice added, and on a breakfast buffet at a hotel on the Rio Grijalva in Villahermosa, Tabasco. There they had myriad pitchers of fresh juices - nopal, orange, g'fruit, beet, etc. and a pitcher of agua de jamaica. One of the waitresses suggested that I give it a whirl mixed with my orange juice. It was rather refreshing ... tho' a blinding shade of orange! Theabroma

Shoot me in a swing, I had no idea it had been open that long! Well, what's up for other kinds of middle eastern in Austin these days? Any Turkish places? Israeli? I know about Ararat, and love it, but am kinda in the dark (obviously!) about the rest. Theabroma

I think the word haute was not the correct choice here (my fault of course). This is more of a thread about fine dining in general fussy Haute Cuisine which I am not sure we even have here in Houston. Do we need to discuss what that means at all? As for La Mistral, I am afraid I'm not familiar with it. Elie Hello, Elie! No, the thing fartherest from my mind was anything to do with semantics. I am not familiar with Le Mistral and just wondered who might be and if it would qualify as a fine dining experience. Or a white table-cloth, or fancy, or whatever we wish to call it ... eg: not Denny's or Houston's or something like that. BTW, are there any places in Houston that offer narghili or water pipes? Regards, Theabroma

I probably shouldn't even admit this, but ... we all thought it was so grand when liquor by the drink became legal in Texas - only to learn that the way the licensing laws had been set up, it was difficult to damn near impossible to take a bottle of wine with you to dinner, pay corkage, and have a nice meal without, as you put it so well, get smacked by drink prices. There IS a silver lining in the BYOB 'cause we don't have a license cloud! Theabroma

I will know next week. Depends on my teaching schedule, which can be somewhat whimsical. I would love to, though. And in the interests of an internationl bellyache, I'd love to give Alborz a shake. Is it just humid as all get out down there? Theabroma

I love Ararat, too, and so does my brother (who lives in Austin). I have to come down in about 2 weeks to finalize arrangements for a catering gig in June. So as not to commit and vanish, I will - with your permission - call you from some kolatch ranch in West, and maybe we can meet with anyone else available and curious to give Alborz a try. Austin has always had such a population of Iranians - that's where I first learned to cook Persian food - and I was always so frustrated that there were so many good cooks, and they never opened a restaurant!!! Regards, Theabroma

Dude! Do Not Rub It In! I'm trying to get back there as fast as I can. Austin is many wonderful things, but it is a truly wonderful food town!!!! Thanks for the info. Theabroma

I'll be down to Austin for a battery recharge in the next 2 weeks, so I may need directions to that place in Bastrop. Time was when the gourmet treat from Bastrop was found in cow pastures! There's even a P. bastropienses species. Ah, yes. Getting back. If I may, I'll holler before I head down and get the name and directions. And hopefully you Austin party animals will be about ready for some kind of eat in. Regards, Theabroma

The following is a reference to a companion site to Texas Cooking. It has a search/listing by region, or month, etc. of festivals all over Texas. The reference below is to May 2004 activities, with several references to Cinco de Mayo events, and, of course, the unforgettable Crab Festival Golf Tournament - one can only hope they eat the crabs instead of trying to par with them. It's handy and well worth a look-seee. http://texana.texascooking.com/cal/db/inde...eriod=36&step=3 Theabroma

Is the Dr. gone - Gone period? Well, here comes CM selling a variety of couvertures in small, too handy bars (Valrhona, Scharffen Berger, etc), and unless the Dr. ramped up a bit, I remember they tended to have a lot of theme moulded chocolates and not a lot of candies or bonbons. Maybe that didn't help. But it's still sad. Are there any more independent chocolatiers in Austin coming in to fill the void?? Theabroma

Where on Westheimer? I'll be in Houston next week and may need to branch out from where I usually end up eating. This is Robb Walsh's review which appeared in Dec 2002 in the Houston Press. If anything, the place is even better. http://www.houstonpress.com/issues/2002-12...ml/1/index.html I hope you get a chance to go, it's just a very special place with superb food. Theabroma

Is anyone familiar with Le Mistral? Does it qualify as haute, and if so, how haute is it? It came up in conversation recently here in Dallas, and I am curious. Fifi? Do you know it? Theabroma

Eyes. At least knowingly and wittingly. The more sophisticated food carts in Mexico that serve taquitos de barbacoa de res (pit cooked cow's head) will part the head out and cover the evidence with tea towels. So you can select your favorite choice parts. They roll back the towel like a Gibson Girl showing ankle ... but when the contents of that part of the tray look back at you .... That plus the texture descriptor 'gelatinous' and the jaw that had given pass to iguana, possum, and jumil bug, involuntarily locked down. Theabroma

Thought of two more places: Morgan's Chocolates on McKinney Ave in Dallas, just south of Chuy's. And is Dr. Chocolate still alive and well in Austin? They had a small shop just to the north of Central Market in the 35th & Lamar shopping center?? Theabroma

San Antonio. This weekend. Fiesta on the River Walk ... and many other parts of town. Theabroma

Interesting thoughts and observations about Frontera & Topolobampo. And I apologize for my use of the awkward term 'white tablecloth'. I really, really didn't want to get into upscale, and by using 'traditional' I was afraid that it would seem that I was excluding the new wave. So it meant it more in spirit rather than as a literal furnishing of a restaurant. What about the Sunday brunch at Fonda San Miguel? That always makes me crazy ... so many moles, cactus paddle salad, and the chef's grandma's capirotada - it has cilantro in it! It has been an enduring presence. I just wish the road from FSM to the tiniest taqueria were more of a ramp than a jump off the culinary cliff... Anybody been to La Fogata in San Antonio recently?? Theabroma