theabroma

I thinki that the truly interesting thing here is not creating a Krakatoa-East-of-Java eruption experience, but how much we all love mole and, despite a few, ah, inconveniences, we will return to make it again and again and again. Not many things out there you can say that about!!! I am trying to find a recipe I have - from a workshop that Alicia d'Angeli did - of a simple mole of chicken, made with chili chilcoztli and a condiment of pureed hoja santa. It does not spit and spew, and it is just wonderful. Bear with me while I keep digging! Theabroma

Linda, I just thought of one more thing. Cast iron pots are superb for searing cuts of meat and for deep frying: they will get hellishly hot, and they will not buckle and bend, they are stable on the stove, and a cast iron dutch oven will hold heat evenly and well when you are deep fat frying - so you don't have to constantly fiddle with the controls to adjust the heat. But those qualities can work a bit against you, especially if you are using an electric stove, when cooking something like a mole sauce. The ideal pot is a deep clay vessel, or perhaps an enamelled cast iron pan. The clas heats thoroughly, and holds and even temperature, but it does not get so incredibly hot like a cast iron pan. The enamelled cast iron will get hotter than clay, but not so searingly hot as a bare cast iron pan. Also, the stainless steel pans with the copper layer sandwitched in the bottom can work well - but experiment with them. That copper can really take on the heat, as well. Theabroma

DuFour is the one brand I know of at the retail level that is all butter. It is ridiculously expensive, but there you are. I'd try Central Market. But even better, although I am not familiar with any of the fiendishly chic gourmet kitchenware stores cum gourmet markets, you will likely find it in one of those. Depending on how much of the stuff you want, you could call Martin Preferred Foods, a wholesaler to the food trade. Several years ago they purchased Paris Gourmet, and so carry a comprehensive array of chocolate, pastry, flavorings, etc. for the restaurant pastry trade. Check with them, but I believe that you can buy as little as one case of puff pastry, and they have several varieties to choose from ... including 100% butter. It is very good quality. The catch is it comes in 36 pound cases, each sheet is the size of a half sheet pan, and what you are not using at the moment must, obviously, remain frozen. If you've got the freezer space, or have a jones for making a million bouchees, go for it! Theabroma

Don't know what how others do it, but I toast 'em, soak 'em, and chop 'em up, kinda in rajas. I just put a few strips down on the quesillo and toast away. Theabroma

Don't know whats on your list but ... If you are near the Plaza Mayor and the Metropolitan Cathedral, the ladies selling sweet gorditas (proper name escapes me just now) are not to be missed for a simple, traditional snack. I found that the weekend taco and antojito vendors on the Plaza just to the east of the Cathedral, by the Plaza Mayor museum are really great - just watch out for the salsa verde: it was bien rica pero se pica mucho! At the opposite end of the Plaza, down about 2 blocks to Calle Uruguay, take a right and walk about two more blocks to Panaderia La Ideal. They have a second floor showroom of wedding and quinceanera cakes worth the trip alone. The bakery has every manner of pan dulces and wonderful breads. If you're lucky they'll have some of their breads woven and decorated to look like little caimanes ... fresh water alligators. Out the door and to your right again, walk all the way to Lazaro Cardenas - a huge boulevard. Turn left at Cardenas and either one or two blocks up is the Churreria El Moro. Open 24/7, and covered to the eyebrows in blue and white glazed tiles, it serves three styles of hot chocolate and freshly made churros. Behind the Metropolitan Cathedral is a bar called Las Sirenas, with rooftop seating. The margaritas are crisp and the view is wonderful - it looks out over the excavations of the Aztec Templo Mayor. Going up Calle Tacuba, running west from the Met Cathedral, you will find Las Girasoles and the Cafe Tacuba. Girasoles will be featuring the traditional foods of the season. It is a lovely place, the duck in blackberry mole (not entirely traditional, that one) is yummy, and the Margaritas de Tamarindo are lethal. Cafe Tacuba is quaint, the food is good - enchiladas, etc. It was a favorite b'fast spot of Frida Kahlo's. South a block or two to Calle Cinco de Mayo puts you at the Bar La Opera and the Dulceria de Celaya - both dating to the era of Porfirio Diaz. La Opera is the quintessential gentleman's lunching establishment (women are welcome), and there are still a few bullet holes in the elegant stamped tin ceiling said to have been put there by Villa when he and his troops arrived in the DF and he rode, literally, in for lunch. It is claimed there are photos to prove it. Their watercress salad is suberb. If, however, you are looking for something quite haute, then either the Zona Rosa for Tezka (owned by Juan Mari Arzak or Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain; Chef was Bruno Oteiza), or in Polanco for Izote (Patricia Quintana's restaurant). Both do, I believe have web presences, and both are wonderful. I would also heartily recommend the food stalls in Mercado La Merced ... it is to the east and south of the Palacio del Gobierno on the Plaza Mayor. However, Mexico City can be quite dicey off the main paths, and I feel leaving that to your best judgment is appropriate. I go myself w/o hesitation, but I do know others (Mx nationals as well as foreigners) who have been relieved of money, documents, etc. And if you do not make any of these places, you will still have wonderfual food. Mexico is just a fabulous food country. Regards, Theabroma

Don't know whats on your list but ... If you are near the Plaza Mayor and the Metropolitan Cathedral, the ladies selling sweet gorditas (proper name escapes me just now) are not to be missed for a simple, traditional snack. I found that the weekend taco and antojito vendors on the Plaza just to the east of the Cathedral, by the Plaza Mayor museum are really great - just watch out for the salsa verde: it was bien rica pero se pica mucho! At the opposite end of the Plaza, down about 2 blocks to Calle Uruguay, take a right and walk about two more blocks to Panaderia La Ideal. They have a second floor showroom of wedding and quinceanera cakes worth the trip alone. The bakery has every manner of pan dulces and wonderful breads. If you're lucky they'll have some of their breads woven and decorated to look like little caimanes ... fresh water alligators. Out the door and to your right again, walk all the way to Lazaro Cardenas - a huge boulevard. Turn left at Cardenas and either one or two blocks up is the Churreria El Moro. Open 24/7, and covered to the eyebrows in blue and white glazed tiles, it serves three styles of hot chocolate and freshly made churros. Behind the Metropolitan Cathedral is a bar called Las Sirenas, with rooftop seating. The margaritas are crisp and the view is wonderful - it looks out over the excavations of the Aztec Templo Mayor. Going up Calle Tacuba, running west from the Met Cathedral, you will find Las Girasoles and the Cafe Tacuba. Girasoles will be featuring the traditional foods of the season. It is a lovely place, the duck in blackberry mole (not entirely traditional, that one) is yummy, and the Margaritas de Tamarindo are lethal. Cafe Tacuba is quaint, the food is good - enchiladas, etc. It was a favorite b'fast spot of Frida Kahlo's. South a block or two to Calle Cinco de Mayo puts you at the Bar La Opera and the Dulceria de Celaya - both dating to the era of Porfirio Diaz. La Opera is the quintessential gentleman's lunching establishment (women are welcome), and there are still a few bullet holes in the elegant stamped tin ceiling said to have been put there by Villa when he and his troops arrived in the DF and he rode, literally, in for lunch. It is claimed there are photos to prove it. Their watercress salad is suberb. If, however, you are looking for something quite haute, then either the Zona Rosa for Tezka (owned by Juan Mari Arzak or Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain; Chef was Bruno Oteiza), or in Polanco for Izote (Patricia Quintana's restaurant). Both do, I believe have web presences, and both are wonderful. And if you do not make any of these places, you will still have wonderfual food. Mexico is just a fabulous food country. Regards, Theabroma

You have now well and truly earned your Mole-Making Badge! And lived to wear it ... The pureed ingredients for all but the very simplest, oldest of moles yield a rather thick mass. Once in contact with the hot oil in a pan, it not only begins to steam, but the bread, tortilla, and nuts ground up into it begin to thicken. The result is like the La Brea Tar Pits set to 'boil.' I used to wonder why the tiny women cooks in mercados and fondas economicas used such huge cazuelas to cook in. They seemed more suitable for bathing or washing. I think it was, in part, to contain the mole swamp as it cooked. Now when I make mole, I use a very deep pot - trick is it should not be real narrow. And I have one really 'good' splatter screen I bought at a 'real' upscale kitchen store, and I have several others I have picked up at Dollar stores and Indian groceries (same thing can happen when sauteeing spices and making curries). You can also use a large plate or pot lid, or visit the hardware store for a 2'x2' piece of very fine, stainless screen mesh. Just plop it over the top of the pot. I prefer the open deep pot or one of the screen scenarios - they both allow steam to escape, and the sauce to thicken. And you need to be able to see what's going on in the pot, and have relative ease of access to stir it. Besides, the pan and oil only need to be fairly hot for a short while : when you first pour in the sauce (I highly recommend doing that all at once, and not in batches. Suck it up and POUR!), and for the first few minutes to 'saute' it. I usually drop the heat a little and then cook and stir until it begins to smell perfumy rather than of 'raw' ingredients. And finally, you will adjust the consistency with stock. I have loved green mole passionately from the first time I ever closed my eyes and put a spoonful of what looked like a spring swamp into my mouth. Tell us about yours. Was it porki? Chicken? Duck? Or corn? You've made me hungry! Regards, Theabroma PS: as for the kitchen ... now you know why many indoor Mexican kitchens are tiled floor, ceiling, and roof! You can just hose 'em down ... and sometimes that's what it takes. I have never heard, however, of mole being a "wash day" special, so to speak. Rachel?

Would love to make some suggestions, but not certain what "worthwhile" might connote.??!!?? Regards, Theabroma

I can't remember who said this, but I don't think the Mayans made it back to Oaxaca. I associate mole with Zapotecs and Chichimecs - not Mayans. I love Mayan food and the food from Yucatan, but I seldom find a mole I can stomach. The Mayan kitchen is rather different - heavily based on recados, or spice pastes, that are diluted with a liquid - typically the juice of sour or Seville oranges - and then rubbed on the meat in question. Typically the meat is wrapped in banana leaves and cooked over coals in a pib or pit. There is, however, one notable Yucatecan mole. A black mole, where every ingredient in the mix is, ah, toasted ... beyone recognition. It is blacker and far more acrid than the mole negro oaxaqueno ... and it is definitely an acquired taste. Scary stuff. Theabroma

theabroma

I first went to Hugo's last March after the Coe lecture. It was late, so we just snagged a few appetizers and chocolate. I was quite impressed with what we had as well as with our very knowledgeable waiter. I have been back on several occasions, including a 3 day stint visiting with a Poblana friend who is doing a stage there both on the line and in pastry. Hugo Ortega and his brother Ruben, the pastry chef, are skilled, knowledgeable, and riding the wave's edge. They return to Puebla frequently to tweak flavors, source product, and see what's up with chefs at home. I have never had a problem with Hugo's, although I have had some people who were utterly mystified that this could really, really be Mexican food. The rabbit is especially tasty and well done, as are the fish preparations. I'll probably be back within the month. I urge everyone to go. Theabroma

Although he jabali and plantanos are about as adventuresome as I can go, I'm sure the kids will be tempted by the iguana. ←

Depends on what you mean by "good" restaurants. If you are mobile, go north on the road out of town, past Bucerias, and take a left on the road to the Punta de Mita. about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way to the Punta your will notice a small, Pepto-Bismol pink cinder block restaurant with a palm thatch roof - Fonda las Amapas. If you are loaded for bear and indigenous fare, then by all means go there to eat. You want the salpicon de venado, the medaillones de platano, the armadillo en adobo, and for sure the iguana alcaparrada. A woman and her sister in law cook "whatever crawls out of the jungle that morning: and it is very, very good. It is also a magic doorway into the very traditional foods of that region of Mexico Also the jabali (javelina - a wild cousin of the pig - is excellent. I am not kidding about this. It was an total revelation to me. Then you can go to the end of the Punta de Mita and sample pedestrian fare - that is, domesticated, and tame, but very well preapred, at the Four Seasons resort at the tip of the Punta. Theabroma

Vicente Fernandez is bigger than Elvis. He's somewhere between Elvis and the Pope, but closer to the Pope. Corageous of you to venture into a taqueria = most folks won't. Theabroma

I dearly want to hear what you thought of Ravelin. Eric Helland was a teacher of mine, and last time I was there - right after opening - it was very good. Theabroma

RG: Your hen is gorgeous ... what a pretty bird! Theabroma

Two other quick thoughts - and my omissions - of previous body parts shopping list: for chicken stock, do what the Chinese, Mexicans, and other waste not/want not max out the flavor folks do: go to Fiesta or an Asian market and get chicken feet. They will up the body of the stock tremendously. for beef stock, consider including either beef feet (especially the cross-cut ankle bones) and/or pig's trotters chopped in 2" pieces or split in half. Either are a terrific source of collagen, add some flavor, and are cheap. Those, plus things like backs and neckbones are the best way around that 50# box of veal bones. Theabroma

thanks, Raynickben. Problem with Aurora for me - aside from the fact that I should not be eating such rich food and it just turns my poor purse into a julienne - is that I am always conflicted as to whether to eat the food or just lie down in it. That place is just glorious. Glad to hear that you love it too. Avner Samuel is just lightyears away from the rest of the high end pack. Theabroma

It didn't open in 2004, but I do believe the best restaurant in Dallas is, without a doubt, Aurora. What sheer bliss and passion on a plate. Theabroma

They just keep pouring gas on that lawsuit fire don't they? Anyways, haven't been to any, unfortunately. ← And well they should. Sorry, but there you are. In today's world especially, this is perhaps a frivolous thing to file a suit over - in fact, I rather wonder at the judge for letting it go through. But. He is not at all out of bounds in his feelings and frustrations. I don't think 'certifying' critics is the way to go, but how can anyone in good conscience and good faith critique things they have at best a slender understanding of???? Theabroma

If you don't care what you pay, go to CM. If you want to pay a little less, go to Kuby's and talk w/Dieter Probson. If they do not have them on hand, they will order them. The price is a bit more reasonable. If you REALLY want veal bones (an ageism issue: the young bones have not set up yet and are richer in collagen than the bones of mature beeves, therefore you get a more gelatinous stock - and it is the body or gelatinosity or the stock, not the flavor necessarily that you're shooting for) you can buy them from Martin Preferred, a wholesaler. You must go to the will-call window at their office, and the minimum purchase is 50 lbs. Perhaps you can divy them up on-line, prior to purchase among the veal stock freaks??? But, there is hope in the local markets without wrecking your purse: go to Fiesta Mart. You want neck bones and cross cut shank (anillo), plus, if you can bear it and religion does not 86 it, fresh pork skin. The shank will provide a beefy flavor, and the neck bones will provide collagen; however, the big provider of collagen is the pork skin. Fiesta usually has it, but if you do not see it in the meat case, ask the butcher. If you cook all of this real low and real slow for many hours, you will get a nicely flavored, very gelatinous stock for your efforts. Fiesta is also the go-to place for price conscious poultry parts - wings and backs - for excellent chicken stock. When making stock remember that you want some flavor, but you really want body, which is provided by leaching the collagen from the bones and connective tissues of the critter you're cooking. So you want to maximize the joints and body parts with connective tissue for a good stock. That's why veal bones work so well ... but they are not the only option. Veal stock has its place, but unless you are cooking within the purview of the Guide Michelin/Gault-Millau, you can do incredible things with just a very well made beef stock. Be aware that stock and broth are two very different things. Theabroma

RG, amigo: Are you using eggs or egg yolks? Perhaps increasing the milk a bit would be a good idea. The condensed milk version is tasty, but very "tough" and quite sweet. I have a flan recipe I need to excavate from a former pastry instructor ... his mom was from Galicia and his flan was killer: tender, quivering, silky, and not too eggy. I don't think that it matters what you cook the flan in - it is a custard and as such should be cooked in a ba~no maria; not doing so will dry it out and definitely make for a tough custard ( or and albino handball, depending on how you look at it!) Also, are you considering making Huevos Reales with the yolks and meringues with the whites? Or turron (nougat)? Theabroma

RG, those look like some variety of pinto to me. Usually the Flor de Mayo/Junio, etc., while a little speckled, has a rosy brownish base color. The other thing to check is how they cook. Some varieties will just not ever really cook down into a creamy mass like pintos, flor de mayo, blacks, etc., but instead get to a certain degreee of doneness and then just swim about in the cooking liquid. What I have always called Bayos and Peruanos are two types of the latter. It is rather like the differences between short grain rices like arborio or valenciana and ultra long grains like basmati and dom siyah. One type just will not cook up like the other. Period. I have used bayos and peruanos in baked bean dishes, and they come out intact. I had not thought of it until this discussion got underway, but popular nomenclature of beans is almost as confusing as that of chiles. Theabroma

Surely you are referring to chiles? 'Cause the penalties for packing heat in Mexico are unlovely in extremis. Now, the curanderos/brujos market can be a little scary, but La Merced? Just dress drably, divest yourself of a look of 'tourist' or prosperous person, and, for heaven's sake, leave the Rolex at home!!! Never really had a problem there. Oh, yeah. Add Carmen Ramirez Degollado's El Bajio to the list. And the Circulo de Suroeste. Hell, go to Sanborn's Casa de Azulejos for b'fast and note the buzzing see and be seen scene - tourists, but an amazing number of nationals. While there look at the Garden of Eden murals on the wall and tell me if those flying egrets don't look like pterodactyls. And do not miss Panaderia La ideal or their wedding and quinceanera cake room. It's on Calle Uruguay, just around the corner from Churreria los Moros. Theabroma

Whoa! You're headed for some really fine dining experiences. To provide a touch of AlkaSeltzer for the old purse, try in the DF: Churreria los Moros Los Girasoles Cafe Tacuba (breakfast) Bar La Opera - an gentleman's retreat (w/or without the secretary) since the Porfiriato/where Villa watered his lieutenants upon their arrival in the DF - bullet holes still in the stamped tin ceiling. Have the tripitas and the ensalada de berros. Dulceria de Celaya - the Art Nouveau jewel box of candy shops Fonda del Refugio - the old grande dame, and still kicking Bar Las Sirenas - roof bar overlooking the Templo Mayor The food stalls in La Merced And in Puebla: Hotel Royalty - especiall the rabbit in rosemary; guajolotes for appetizers Meson de la Sacristia for mole La Pasita bar (have a pasita w/queso fresco) near Calle de los Sapos Fonda Sta Clara (though good, a bit overrated; chiles en nogada are out of season) Breakfast at the Camino Real For fish/seafood, you really want to head for the coast, esp West coast If Balam's in Vallarta is still there, the pescado sarandeado. Doggie bags and detailed descriptions appreciated! Theabroma