bjcohan

I have two of the Cuisinart bowl-in-the-freezer machines. For folks who don't want to spring for a compressor model, I think they're the best. (I've burned out the motors on many of the other brands, including three 4-quart White Mountain ice-and-salt machines.) When I began making the desserts for my husband's restaurant six and a half years ago, I had a perfect excuse to spring for a compressor model. After much research, I bought a Simac Il Gelataio and I couldn't be happier. I use it nearly every day, for batch after batch, 50 weeks a year. Starting with a very cold base, each batch is finished in 20 minutes or so. There are two switches - one for the dasher and one for the compressor. It only needs five minutes between batches - just enough time to pop out the bowl and clean the bowl and dasher. The dasher appears to be made of solid teflon or some similar material. I haven't had a moment's problem with it. Best of all, I got it as a factory refurb on eBay for $225 instead of the $600 it listed for back then. I was googling my machine a while ago, thinking that I might someday need to replace it. The Simac seems to be much more available in Europe where several models are available. I would definitely buy another! Barb

Chris, that is *fantastic* news!!! When you hit Philly, let me add my voice to the chorus of those offering help. I have a little different perspective, having worked (as a prosecutor) in this town for nearly 30 years, and I also run a Mexican-French restaurant with my chef-husband. (Friends joke that I ruin people's lives by day, and dole out alcohol and chocolate by night.) I'd be happy to introduce you to some of the foodies among Philly's Finest! Feel free to email me at barb*at*cohan*dot*com. Barb

First of all, doesn't albondiga sound so much better than meatball? I like the Mayordomo products. Sorry to say though, they've been in my refrigerator a bit too long, I'm afraid to look. The only difference, in my opinion, between the Mayordomo and the stuff you buy in the market besides packaging is recipe. If you have observed the ladies with their buckets of ingredients to get ground at the molinillo - usually takes place at one of the Mayordomos near the market - they will all have different amounts of this and that that make them their own. But there is nothing wrong with the flavour of the Mayordomo moles and nothing to be ashamed of if you are not making your own from scratch. I just happen to like hell fire in the kitchen. ← LOL, I was a French major and had to do the whole Proust thing so long ago I'd nearly forgotten about it. Guess I need "une madeleine trempée dans du vin"!!! I've tried to stay away from the packaged mole pastes because I can't taste them before I buy them. When I lived in Mexico, I was fortunate to live with a glorious woman named Esperanza who took me to the markets in and around Cuernavaca and in Puebla, Oaxaca, Tepoztlan, and Guadalajara educating me about the gazillions of different moles. At her wise suggestion, I now always travel with boxes of ziplock bags. I buy the paste on taste (I love it raw), then freeze it in double-bagged ziplock bags for the trip home. I have a special insulated carrier that fits in my suitcase and keeps everything frozen until I get back to Philadelphia. I file the bags, card-like, in a box in my freezer so everything is available -- black moles, yellow, green, red and brown. My favorite comes from a little place just outside Cuernavaca - it's a glorious red mole, every bit as good as the ones I make from scratch (when there is time). Last trip, I brought a cubeta of 10 kilos of the stuff. Paid overweight on my suitcase but it was worth it. The bought paste isn't as much fun as homemade, but it is fun to taste all the different kinds in the market and bring home a variety. Barb

It's a thick, red, coffee table sized book. And it contributed to my getting hit with an overweight luggage fee leaving Oaxaca <sigh> I always get hit with an overweight luggage fee leaving Oaxaca ... and the DF ... Last time the culprit was the 10 kg of mole paste I bought in a little town outside Cuernavaca, or the frozen pitahayas, or the masa, or maybe the comales... Seriously, many thanks for the recommendation of the book. I hope to be in the DF in March and will try to pick up a few copies. Barb

My DH (the chef) has complained from time to time about the tacos being a bit greasy, but more often than not, they've been terrific, and I've eaten at La Lupe a LOT. I have tried all of the other Mexican places and La Lupe remains my hands-down favorite. (I've had tacos three or four times from La Veracruzana and they were so dried out and awful that I never went back.) In fact, when I still worked downtown, my DH used to call quite often to ask me to bring him tacos and tortas from La Lupe on the way home. (BTW, the tortas are the only thing I *don't* like at La Lupe. They use regular rolls -- that seem similar to Stroehmann's awful hamburger rolls -- instead of bolillos. I wish they would, at least, use good dense Portuguese bread if they can't get bolillos.) Lupe and Gabriel are thoroughly charming and delightful hosts and I'm thrilled that they're getting such nice ink. The only thing that really puzzles me are the comments about service as slow and occasionally gruff, as I have never experienced this. Hmmmmm ... I wonder if their wholly-Anglo customers are, perhaps, treated differently? I speak fluent Spanish and have lived in Mexico. Lupe and Gabriel have treated me like family from the first time I set foot in the place, and I assumed, given their warmth and charm, that they treat others the same way. YMMV, apparently. I only hope that the two bells don't start a stampede... Barb

Done! Here you are, Chris. Chorizo toluqueño Esperanza. ¡Buen provecho! Barb

Julie, try http://www.culinaryparts.com. They carry Waring parts as well as many other brands, and always seem to have whatever I need. Whenever I order from them, I check around for any other spare parts my other kitchen appliances may need and get them all at once to save on shipping. I've found parts there that I couldn't find anywhere else. Barb

After trying dozens of varieties of chorizo while living in Mexico, my favorite is definitely the chorizo toluqueño. I grill it, cut it into chunks and add it to my frijoles charros. Not a traditional application, but it makes a dish that's para chupar los dedos. If you want a recipe for the chorizo, let me know and I'll post it. Barb

Chorizos toluqueños Esperanza When I lived and studied in Mexico, I was fortunate to spend several months in Cuernavaca, Morelos, with Esperanza Cuevas de Baron, a marvelous cook. Pera took me to the market each morning and allowed me the privilege of cooking alongside her as she prepared the comida each day. We did a bit of travelling as well, exploring the wonderful regional variations of Mexican cuisine. This recipe for chorizo, from Toluca, is one of my favorites. A strong exhaust fan is essential, as the toasting chiles fill the air with a glorious but very pungent smoke. This chorizo can be used in bulk, though I prefer to stuff it using natural casings. A note on substitutions: The measurements in this recipe do not have to be precise. If you like more garlic, go for it. American cinnamon can be substituted for the canela. The arbol chiles can be omitted if you don't want the zing. For an interesting variation, substitute dried chipotle for the pimentón. ... Makes about 3 pounds of chorizo. 1 kg pork 350 g lard 100 g ancho chiles 30 g pasilla chiles 2 g arbol chiles 2 g canela (Mexican cinnamon) 1/2 g cloves 2 g cilantro seeds 2 g oregano (preferably Mexican) 1/2 g cumin 6 g pimentón (smoked paprika) 2 cloves of garlic 1 small onion 1/2 c vinegar 2 tsp salt natural casings (optional) Before starting, be sure that the lard and pork (as well as all other ingredients and your utensils) are very cold. Prepare the chiles. Remove seeds and stems, and toast the chiles on a comal or griddle (or in a cast iron pan) until they are dry and brittle but not burned. Set aside to cool. (If you cannot get whole chiles, or if you don't have an adequate exhaust system, you can substitute powdered chiles but the result will be inferior though still tasty.) Once the chiles are cooled, place them in a blender or food processor with the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Cut the pork into cubes (about 3/4"). Toss the spice mixture with the pork, cover and chill for several hours. Add the lard and grind, using the large plate of the grinder, or mince them finely using a knife or food processor. This chorizo can be ground more finely if you prefer. Stuff the casings, being careful not to make them so full that you will not be able to twist them into links. Twist into links approximately 10 cm long (about 4"). You can also use this chorizo in bulk. I find that they taste best if they are kept in the refrigerator for a day before cooking. ¡Buen provecho! Keywords: Pork, Mexican, Easy ( RG1584 )

You can toast it slightly in the oven and then use it in biscotti, along with some coarsely-chopped and toasted hazelnuts. Divine! Barb

Sandra, I am thrilled beyond words that London, one of my favorite cities, FINALLY has good Mexican food. Many years ago, when I was in London on business, I phoned the Mexican embassy to seek their recommendation of a good Mexican restaurant. They replied "lo siento, pero aqui no hay." They were quite right. They referred me to a place that they said was the best there was, and it was dreadful. Not a corn tortilla in sight. The place was packed (surely for the beer) and my friends wanted to stay, so we did. Not only was the food nearly inedible and certainly not Mexican, but I got food poisoning! (I had much more success with the Thai embassy...) One thing London did have in those days that the U.S. did not was Mexican avocados. I smuggled quite a few back from London to my Mexican husband in Philadelphia. Quite well-travelled were those avocados, and well worth the trouble. Fortunately, we can now get them here. If I get back to London, I shall definitely visit your restaurant. I'm sure that the folks in the embassy are happier these days! Barb

My husband, Adán Saavedra, is the chef-owner of Paloma in Philadelphia. He was born in Tumbiscatío, Michoacán, and raised in the DF. His culinary training is French and his cuisine is French-Mexican fusion. (FWIW, the critics have raved and Paloma got the only 29 in the Philadelphia Zagat Guide for 2005 and 2006.) Paloma Mexican Haute Cuisine 6516 Castor Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19149 215-533-0356 Open for dinner only Tuesday through Saturday Barb

That's a stunning meal, Shelora! Here in Philadelphia, the only grito we get to see/hear is on Univisión <sigh>. It is a very cool ceremony and we always watch it at midnight. As I watched Vicente Fox lead the grito from the balcony I thought that this must be the best of all possible moments to be president of México. One day, I want to go to the Zócalo in the DF for the grito. My DH tells a funny story about how his mom, a tiny little campesina from Michoacán, put her money in her shoe when she went to the Zócalo because she was afraid that the rateros would steal it. Well, in the press of the crowd, she lost her shoe. The next morning, when the Zócalo was cleaned, there was a whole pile of shoes and personal belongings that had been lost the night before. As they looked for my MIL's shoe, she insisted that she would know hers because it had money in it. Not. Barb

In addition to all the equipment described in this thread, I also couldn't live without my molinillo, or my big tamalero with the spout on the bottom for adding water, the sturdy rack to hold the tamales, and that deep, tight lid. And, of course, the moneda in the bottom. I've also grown inordinately fond of the two-sided, round, multi-bladed cutter thing to press designs in conchas and other types of pan dulce. My poor DH gets a shopping list every time he goes home to see his family. And since my own trips to México have turned into cookware-and-food shopping trips, I have purchased a wonderful insulated bag that fits nicely into my suitcase and is guaranteed to maintain temperature for 48 hours. I bring that, two boxes of zip-lock bags (quart and gallon size), and an extra suitcase. I remove all the stems and seeds from my dried chiles, pack them into the zip-lock bags, sit on them to squeeze out all the air, and pack them flat among clothing. Same with flor de jamaica, chile piquin, chicharrón from Jojutla, etc. Other zip-lock bags are filled with fruit pureés (especially pitahaya when I can get it, and mamey) and frozen flat. I freeze my favorite mole paste from a little village in Morelos that makes the best I've ever tasted (10 kilos last trip!), a couple of kilos of carnitas from El Doc in Cuernavaca, chorizo toluqueño, longaniza, my mother-in-law's tinga, some fresh epazote, masa, etc. etc. You get the idea. I declare EVERYTHING (the sin is not in bringing, but in failing to declare). If I'm bringing something that *might* cause problems, I still declare it but I write it in Spanish ("silly me, I forgot what it's called in English!" - yeah, right.) The inspectors look at my list, shake their heads, and tell me to just GO. The only problems I ever had were overweight charges on the luggage. Must have been the queso oaxaca my mother-in-law sent! I read this thread envying those of you who live driving distance from México. I dream of flying to Texas and then renting a truck to fill with everything I want to buy, including one of those gorgeous fountains from Xochimilco. One of these days I may do it! And, Jaymes, you are so right about the freezer. Mine holds all of the goodies described above, as well as Mexican butter (makes U.S. butter taste like wax) and other delights. If I didn't have my freezers, we'd have to eat all the stuff I bring back ... too quickly! Barb

I found the book! Not much info, but given the quality of her other efforts, I'm sure this one's a winner. Here's the link: http://www.libroslatinos.com/cgi-bin/libros/98029.html Here's an article about it: http://www.elsoldemexico.com.mx/impreso/05...d/2sociedad.asp Barb

Do you add more sugar syrup to make a sorbet than you would to make an agua fresca? Great to hear a new voice on the forum here. Welcome. Shelora ← Gracias, Shelora. Yes, it does take more syrup to make the sorbet so that it will freeze properly, but for some reason -- perhaps the temperature of the sorbet -- it doesn't taste too sweet. I wish I could give you precise measurements, but I regularly violate the most sacrosanct rules of dessert making. I don't measure these things. I make this so often that I do it by eye. If it's too crystalline as it freezes, I add a touch more syrup. It makes professionals wince, but it always turns out well somehow. All of the recipes I learned in Mexico were like that -- I called it the "mas o menos school of culinary arts." This forum is great. I'll try to swing by as often as I can, when life doesn't get in the way. Saludos, Barb

The menu used to be posted at www.patriciaquintana.com, but the site is no longer active. It's a shame. It was a good website and included discussions of Mexican wines and other aspects of the cuisine. I remember printing it out for my cyberphobic husband before he went to Izote a couple of years ago while visiting his parents in DF. (Sadly, on the day he went, the chef was clearly absent and he reported that his meal was good, but somewhat disappointing. I'm hoping that she will be there when we go to Izote on our next trip.) Barb

When I lived in Cuernavaca (with a wonderful cook named Esperanza, BTW, who had been born in Guadalajara), I learned to love most of the local rice of Morelos. The rice from Jojutla was superb, and there were other fine rices from other parts of the state as well. It was the closest in flavor to the glorious Thai rice that I buy in the States. I agree, though, that it is no substitute for arborio! (What I miss most from Jojutla is their extraordinary chicharrón -- thin and flat, with big trozitos de carne. Yum!) Ah, now I'm homesick AND hungry! Barb

I make a sorbet of flor de jamaica for our restaurant. For many of our customers it is their first introduction to jamaica ... until I tell them about Red Zinger. The sorbet is very easy and very popular. I just steep a bunch of jamaica to make a very strong tea, then mix it with sugar syrup and freeze in the Simac into a gorgeous fuchsia sorbet. I serve it in a martini glass garnished with a twist of lime. If I had hibiscus flowers I'd use those. Barb

Paul, I'm late to this thread as I've been away from the forum for quite a long time. (There is little time for forum cruising when you run a restaurant AND work a full time job besides!) I think it's great of you to share your experiences, although this has brought back some of the nightmares my husband and I went through 6 1/2 years ago when we were preparing to open our restaurant. Since we didn't have people from whom to borrow, we financed everything ourselves and took a second mortgage on the house to do it. That limited us insofar as location was concerned, so we're in the Northeast although our concept (upscale French-Mexican, a far cry from CBS sushi!) is more suited to downtown. Hopefully, we will make the move downtown in the next couple of years. I wish I had seen this thread earlier, because I could have steered you clear of some of the smaller headaches. (For example, to get the license, someone told us to go to the satellite office of City Hall in the northeast. We did, and had everything done in 15 minutes with no lines.) I look forward to your opening. I'll try to stay on top of this thread to cheer you on! Best, Barb

I love the things. Especially the ones in yellow cellophane that are rolled up like little flautas... It's the only sweet that I can leave around with the assurance that nobody else is going to filch it... Barb

I am oh-so-late coming to this thread, but I've been away from the forum for a while. I bought my cazo de cobre (a deep solid copper pot with slightly flared sides and two big round brass handles) in a marketplace in Tonala, Jalisco, right outside Guadalajara. 15 years ago, it cost all of ten bucks. And it is, indeed, solid copper. When I lived in Mexico, I was taught to use the cazo de cobre to maintain the bright green color while cooking vegetables. It does that beautifully. And, yes, it is the traditional pot for making carnitas, but to be honest, I prefer a large nonstick pot for that -- mainly because I don't want to lose one tiny bit of those wonderful little crunchies that end up at the bottom of the pot (can't remember what we called those in Spanish, but there is a specific name for them). There is so much copper mined in Mexico, and labor is so cheap, that the inexpensive cazos really are made of solid copper. God, I miss that place! My husband, the chef, is there now visiting his mother. I have given him -- as always -- a long wish list of cooking equipment to bring back. Can't wait to see what goodies he'll bring -- besides my mameyes, maiz cacahuazintle (for masa), obleas, etc... Barb

Well, if you're really still counting, you can add my 500+. I'm not at home right now and so can't give an accurate count, but last time I counted, I stopped at 500. (Many are in Spanish, from Mexico and other parts of Latin America.) What a delightful addiction. Barb

Paul - It's DH Adan's spin on the traditional chile relleno. Fresh poblano chile (NO substitute!), charred and peeled, seeds carefully removed through a small slit, filled, frothy egg batter, lightly fried. Instead of the traditional fillings of cheese or picadillo, Adan fills his with lobster sauteed in brandy, mixed with pepper, shallots and queso fresco. It's pretty amazing. The only (minor) problem with a dish like this is that poblano peppers have a verrrrrry unpredictable heat level, and you just don't know how zingy they will be until you taste them. I grow poblanos and have taken two from the same plant - same soil, same sun, same watering - and one is as mild as a bell pepper while the other will singe your eyebrows. Since we make everything mild and then add heat upon request, we usually warn first-timers about the unpredictability of the chile. People do love it, though. (And the rest of the lobster goes into making the bisque.) Barb

Sara, I was delighted to read your post. Elisa Ludwig wrote a review of Paloma some time back and it was so poorly written that we couldn't even tell whether she liked it or not. Many of our friends and a number of my coworkers, unprompted, called me to ask what in blazes she was trying to say. Since we couldn't figure out what she was writing in her "review," we just posted it so that others could join us in laughing at it. The most frequent comment was "what the @#$%"? I went onto the Phila. Weekly website to read her other reviews, wondering if just maybe I had put a little too much tequila in the tequila-lime sorbet. Nope. The woman cannot write and knows nothing about food. After that, I stopped reading their restaurant reviews altogether. It's a free paper. I guess you get what you pay for. Barb