thom

I always knew my Soph was a classy lady of taste and discretion. And you're right, someone has to have the 'Blessed the Family' dish, and really we should give the 'Husband and Wife Lung Slices' a go too. In the name of research I'll take one of them next time I go if someone will pick up the spare? Cheers Thom

Another year, another trip to Red Chilli... Actually, my last trip was technically in 2005, but I'm planning to be en route again next week. Anyway, the trip as ever was excellent. We (my better half and I) didn't go crazy, but we did have: *Cod slices with chilli As recommended by Bertie, though when I saw him eat this I'm sure the cod was unadorned but on this occassion I was slightly worried that it was in a batter. Luckily the batter was light enough to be almost undiscernable except was the slightest texture, and it helped hold the delicious sauce to the fish. The chillis gave it a pleasing heat, unless you ate them instead of admiring them for garnish, at which point they really had some poke. All in all, a hit. *Gung Bo chicken I think the spelling is right, though it is a variation on the dish that is spelt 'kung po' or 'gung bo' in various other establishments. Basically it is a sweet, chilli sauce dish and is chavvy, lowbrow, and a disgrace to select off such a wonderfully exotic menu. My girlfriend picked it. I have to say though, this was a pretty good example. Sweetness and spice were well-balanced, and it was nicely reduced to a stick coating making it very moreish. The whole peanuts sprinkled through the dish worked well too. *Braised pork belly with preserved chinese cabbage This was a belter, and what could be better on a frosty winter lunchtime - pork, fat, cabbage, slow cooking. Mmmm... It was basically your typical star anise heavy chinese pork belly, but again a very, very good version. The fat just melted away, (courtesy of four hours cooking) and the flavour was fantastic, and well complimented by the soggy but delicious cabbage which seemed almost stewed. Add to this a couple of nice glasses of wine and a good time was had by all. I must admit we stuggled to get through it all but as noted above a doggy bag was suggested and it was all parcelled up for us to pick at that evening. Yum. Cheers Thom

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is why he got the job. Cheers Thom

Oh he'll still be a Northern boy all right. In fact, he's got a job as apprentice tripe bleacher in the processing plant at 'Brocklethwaites Innards Emporium' situated in the quaint little Lancashire town of Grimly-on-the-Mire. Quality of life? Read it and weep to those of you living the hoity-toit life in that there London. Cheers Thom

Gary, That's good eating even for five of you! Pity that you weren't blown away though. As I said, the more standard dishes are good, but it is the more unusual stuff where it really hits the heights. To be honest, part of the fun for me is just finding a Chinese menu that really excites me, as even the good Cantonese restaurants such as Yang Sing rarely inspire me any more. Also, not sure whether maybe the Manchester site might have held onto the best or most experienced chefs as it was the original site? You notice the difference between chefs as I have once been in to the Mancheter restaurant a couple of times on a Sunday and noticed a difference in several of the dishes to the weekday fare. Be good to see you over in Manchester; we can really give the menu a proper going over. Hope all is well over the otherside of the Pennines (and the other side of the bar). Cheers Thom

Gary, Good work fella. I say tan the arse out of your expense account, I hear the boss at your new place is a real tightwad... I'm sure other people on here will proffer plenty of opinions but I'd try and hit the following: Lamb chill broth Much described above, pretty firey, but it's so good you just keep eating. tender lamb, wilted lettuce, a mound of garlic and coriander and more chillis then would ever seem sensible, all in a huge pot full of intensely flavoured thin broth. Sea Bass with sweet soy This has been on my 'to do' list for a while. CB had it and rated it winner - whole seabass, fried till tender, and served on a plate covered in sweet and sharp sauce. Expertly filleted at the table with nothing more than a pair of spoons too. Any soups Might sound like a cop out, but I think the soups are great. The sweet and sour with trio of seafood has a huge pepper kick, but I actually think I prefer the seafood and beancurd soup, witch has a clean taste and real depth of flavour. Stir-fried eel with Red Chilli This is one of my favourites. I once had the eel crumbled into chunks, but generally it is served on the bone, with eel the thickness of a carrot cut cross-section into chunks. The meaty eel really works with a sticky sweet glaze, and the chillis give it a kick of heat. Although you can eat it off the bone I tend to crunch the small stuff up like you do with Chinese duck etc. Pork in broth with fine noodles I can't remember the exact name of this dish, but I had it with Jay on my first visit. After the full on taste-bud assault of all the chilli, pepper and garlic in the other dishes, this is decptively gentle. But, the pork is wonderfully tender, and the flavour of the broth really comes through. Spring onion bread Not that you will be short of food, but I quite liked this bread. It's kind of like a chapati/tortilla style flat bread, with chopped spring onion in it. A little greasy as I think it is fried in the pan, but tasty, and it would be great fodder to eat with a few beers. Above and beyond that there are still plenty of dishes to go at. I'd had quite a few of them, and although some of the 'safer' choices aren't much better or different than a decent Cantonese chinese I would say on the whole you won't be disappointed whatever you go with. Make sure though that you get the authentic menu (I think the English menu is the one which also has 'winelist' written on the front), and try a few diversions into the more challenging stuff. Jay and I had the stir-fried pig intestines with Chinese black pudding which was suprisingly good (if not outstanding enough to warrant a repeat visit) and I have been meaning to get around to the 'hot wok trotter', 'chilli shredded pigs maw' and the intriguing sounding 'blessed the whole family' (purely because I want to know what it is). Enjoy it, and let me know what you think. Also, try and find some very important clients in Manchester who you MUST visit for a boozy lunch... Cheers Thom

Try this thread: Most recent Liverpool thread It's fairly up to date I feel, so most of the comments still stand. Just to echo: I found the Carriageworks splendid last time I went (braised ox-cheek stands out) though the dessert was a weak link. Their 'bar food' in the more relaxed dining area looked good too. Fraiche is fantastic, if a little out on a limb. Technical, complex food, with more wiggly bits than you can shake a stick at but beautifully cooked and constructed. If you want more down to earth then the ever-reliable Piccolino (I am a regular in the Manchester branch) offers excellent modern Italian dining in a buzzy, atmospheric space, St Petersburg is a quirky though well-liked Russian Place and the adequate Sapporo Teppanyaki offers uhmm... adequate teppanyaki. Ziba at the Raquet Club is ok and nicely located though a little pricey for what it as, and the same applies to the SAS Radisson restaurant (not been there, but that's what I've heard). If you want cheap and cheerful then Everyman is fine for Cornerhouse-style student/culture vulture dining, and the Number 7 cafe offers decent well-priced nosh too. Both are just off Hope St. Final tip, David Woolfe (ex of the 5 star Lowry in Manchester) now has his own place on Allerton Road out in the 'burbs. Place is called Spoon, and it's meant to be pretty good. Cheers Thom

Mrs Woman! Well I never, it's a small world. Good to hear from you; life is good with me and hope all is well with you. Your bloke likes the Kwok Man? I used to go there quite a lot (they were always good with big parties) and it was fine, but it has gone off a bit over the last couple of years (new owners?) and last year it got absolutely crucified for breaching various H&S laws (pics in the Manchester Evening News of floors covered in stale grease, rat droppings, cockroaches etc...). Put me off a bit. Still got an appetite? In that case try Red Chilli, as it's great, though I don't think it's open past normal opening hours (11:00? 12:00?). Kai's used to be the place for Chinese at 4am, but since that went up in flames I've tried a few of the more downmarket Chinese on the street betweeen Princess St and the Arch. Not great (I suspect the last one gave my brother food poisoning) but choices are limited past midnight. Of course, theres a lot of logic behind the adage that places that stay open at unsociable hours serving unsociable people (present company excused of course) do so because they're too poor to compete at the prime times. Of course following a logical argument in the early hours of the morning with full-blown drunken hunger-anger is easier said than done... Oh, directions: Red Chilli is in a basement (used to be Beaujolais) on the junction of Portland St and the side st that leads off it to the Chinese Arch (I always get Chinatown streets mixed up). It's on the right as you walk down Portland from Piccadilly, halfway between Yates and Princess St. Cheers Thom

Bapi, you are so hard-core! Your friend comatose on a toilet, and Johnny Vegas trailing in your wake (a lucky escape for him by God!) - you are an animal. Glad you liked the Lamb Chilli Broth, it really is the standout dish for me but the seafood has also been excellent and there is a lot more to explore. The sweet-soy seabass is a goer, and Bertie I note your recommendation regarding the chilli cod. Let me know when you are unshackled from your domestic duties, and the Trotter's Club can reconvene. Have to drag Gary over too, and Bertie if you can find a chink in your busy schedule you should come along as well. Too much chilli and Chinese beers all round then? Cheers Thom

It's a small world indeed. My IT chap is from somewhere in the outer reaches of Huddersfield, and his local butcher came second to Mettricks in the Meat Trades Gazette national awards. They all seem to know each other quite well through their industry body. It's the one with the big 'Q' logo; 'Guild of Quality Butchers' maybe? Cheers Thom

Good work Bapi, I knew I could reply on you to lower the tone. That said, your post doesn't make clear whether the 'chipolata' comment is a rhetorical question, directed at me or is simply a plaintive cry for help from your good self? Delighted that you enjoyed Red Chilli, and intrigued to know how adventurous you were with the menu. Look forward to reading all about it on the relevent thread. Let me know if you make it over Glossop (or try Mettrick's online ordering, I've heard the interweb is a wonderful thing). Coincidently, I happened to find myself watching a programme late last night about nudists hiking from Lands End to John O'Groats, and pleasingly they received their most enthusiastic welcome on the stretch from Buxton to the Pennine way, within a couple of miles of Glossop. We're a welcoming lot in the Peak District... PS I'd stay away from pubs run by 'friends'. I find pub landlords generally to be disreputable reprobates and hairy-palmed social inadequates who are normally concealing dark and terrible secrets behind their haggard and gin-worn faces. Not the sort of chap you would want in your social circle... Cheers Thom

Remind me, did I ever tell you about my local butcher Mettricks? I did. Excellent. The latest news is that they have just won the prestigious national ‘Best Local Food Producer’ award at the Radio 4/BBC Good Food Show food awards. I think John Mettrick was interviewed on Radio 4 yesterday morning. Pretty impressive, and even more so is the fact that their lamb was served as part of the Good Food Show chef’s dinner to universal praise from Rik Stein, Jamie Oliver, Gordon Ramsay et al. Based on the number of chefs placing Christmas orders (Raymond Blanc in particular was keen) John is now worried about running out of stock… Without wanting to indulge in gloating I do feel very lucky indeed to have these guys on my doorstep. The meat they sell is of extraordinary quality, but it's not just artfully posed middle-class meat-porn, they are traditional butchers and still sell the more old-fashioned or challenging cuts which you just won't get in 'posh' butchers. As an example, a couple of months ago I got some skirt (fnar) as I had read in 'Roast Chicken and other Stories' that although tough it work's fantastically as a pan-fried steak (a la Onglet). I got enough for three portions, and also bought enough shin beef to make six portions of a slow-cooked stew with root vegetables. The cost for nine portions of top quality (though thrift cut) meat? £4.46. Last weekend I fancied doing these Hugh FW things which are like fancy lamb scratchings. Poach a lamb belly in mirepoix, then brush with mustard, dip in egg and coat with breadcrubs, finally roast till crispy. Hugh notes that lamb belly is hard to find, and it usually just binned by butchers. Needless to say Mettricks had it to hand, and a piece big enough to make twenty fish-finger sized portions was £1.62. Ok, gloat over. I'm just proud of these guys, and only wish naively that more retailers could and would follow their lead. Their website is http://www.mettricksbutchers.co.uk/ should any of you want to treat a loved one to a meat-hamper. That does sound like a particularly sordid euphemism, so Bapi and Gary feel free to make smutty innuendo. Cheers Thom

Here speaks a wise man. The world (or at least the UK, for now) is your oyster really. There is an argument for exploring on your own doorstep first and working your way up (L'Enclume, Anthonys, No 3, Juniper, Northcote Manor, even Hibiscus are only a couple of hours away). But... If someone offered me an 'all you can eat' deal anywhere in the UK I would go in at the top* and plump for Ramsay, Fat Duck or Waterside (depending on the atmosphere and style of eating your prefer. Just to stress jamsie's advice again - kick the arse out of the winelist. Cheers Thom *And of course you average egulleteer can argue about which restaurant is at said 'top' for 17 hours non-stop before coming up for air.

Yes, what Erica said, though maybe even with an extra 'Goose!' added for good measure. Make a proper gravy by oven roasting the giblets and use the fat for the roast potatos and veg (I cribbed from a Classic Conran recipe last year). Seventeen people!? What sort of nuclear-powered goose did you buy!? Kind of reminds me of that Alan Partridge vs the Farmers sketch where he's ranting on about the freakish giant chickens he alleges they keep hidden in sheds. Cheers Thom

'Standfirsts'! That's the technical term I was looking for. Cheers Thom

I may be mistaken, but I do think the intro paragraph above the article itself refered to 'Jay and four friends'. So, it's either a lowly sub editor's fault, or Mr Rayner brought along Rodney, the invisible friend he has had since childhood who makes him do bad things... Cheers Thom

That's fantastic CB, I'm really glad you enjoyed it. I have to say, your post eloquently nailed the main point about the lamb dish which is the fact you will wolf the whole lot in spite of the crazy chilli heat. When I last ate it the spice was intense, and to be honest I was sat there with my chopsticks not quite sure how I was going to eat another mouthful (delicious though it was). But, you do go back, again and again and again. What I found amazing was how the immense up front heat was completely balanced by the complexity of other flavours in the broth. I don't know how it works, but the stucture of the dish just keeps the fire at arms length, even though you certainly know it's there. Very clever, and very delicious. The seabass dish sounds spot on. Thats one on the list for next time then. Cheers Thom

CB, Did you get the right lamb dish then? How was the rest of it? The assorted meats was £7.50, as are (i think) all the clay pot dishes. Not sure what menu you looked at; maybe they have a more steeply priced one for people they don't like the look of?! See you soon Cheers Thom

A little busy today so unable to pen a full-on review but just wanted to mention that I went to Fraiche last weekend and it was excellent. Barely an hour from Derbyshire if you drive like a loon (though complying with the legal speed limit at all times Occifer...) and well worth the trip. Cheers Thom

Bertie, Thanks for trying to cover, but I realised you weren't coming at that point, I just ordered it because I am a fat git. There again at the weekend, with gf and the fruit of my loins in tow. The latter slept all the way through (a rare and wonderful occurance) leaving us adults to mop up a fish and beancurd soup - lovely thin and flavoursome broth, with flakes of white fish, succulent beancurd and coriander - and the aformentioned hot chilli pot of assorted meats. With it we had boiled rice, soft fried noodles (ordered in case Thom Junior woke up - he didn't, we ate them), green tea and two diet Cokes. We shared everything, and just about got through it all. The price? £15.70. Cheers Thom

CB, I've only just reread your posts and only just twigged that you had the same dish. Must have been something subliminal. Or maybe they just have a load of pigskin which is on the turn, and are upselling it to any naive looking Westerners... Either way, it tasted good. I was struggling towards the end, but I'm proud that all the important stuff was scoffed, apart from three or four chunks of bean curd and some smaller vegetable flotsam and jetsam. That said, I am off out tonight with no time for eating, and so the meal above has become lunch and tea for me (efficient time manager that I am). Cheers Thom

Oooohhhh.... another fine lunch (Manchester branch). Did the lone dining thing today, with only a Manchester Evening News for company. Bliss. I went for my old fave the stir-fried eel with chilli. Out of stock this week; must have had a run on it. Next choice, was the spicy lamb casserole, which is fantastic, if a little overfacing for one. Seated with a mineral water and a green tea, the manager wandered over to say hello (he had remembered me from prior visits) and asked what I was eating. 'You don't fancy something different?' he said, on hearing my play-safe option. Spicy I said, something suitable for a cold and rainy day (in Manchester? No...?). He pointed me towards some chilli pork dish, with a dryer thicker sauce, and a claypot dish with 'assorted meats and fish'. I went for the latter, remaining adamant I wanted a Chinese rather than an Western selection of meat, and it was outstanding. As per the lamb casserole I had eaten previously this was a thinnish but intense soup, topped with chopped coriander, crushed garlic and chillis, and brimming with mushrooms, bamboo, lettuce and 'assorted meats and fish'. The sauce broth seemed slightly thicker than the lamb dish, but was even better for it. Delving about, I found fat juicy scallops, finely scored tubes of squid, sliced fish cakes, fish balls, chicken, bean curd and (I needed a prompt on this one) pig skin. The latter is apparently dried and then salted, and then soaked in water before using in a dish. It was flavoursome and remarkably tender. The amount of food was stupid, necessitating about 10 return trips between my rice bowl and the clay pot. Even then there was a third of the pot still full (though with the choicest morsels missing). I ate till I felt sick with pleasure, and along with a mineral water, huge pot of green tea and boiled rice it cost £10.20. This could easily (EASILY) have fed two for lunch, meaning all in you'd be spending £5-6 each. Considering this is ordering off the full menu rather than any lunchtime special I just find that brilliant. Whilst in there (it wasn't too busy today) two English businessmen, who had being tucking into an extensive but rather vanilla selection declared it 'bloody lovely', and told the manager they had seen some 'great reviews lately'. Both your readers in one place Jay. Remember - this isn't an El Bulli style gastronomic reawakening. But it is just delicious, exciting, authentic, well cooked food, with good quality ingredients, good service and cheap, cheap prices. I love it here. Cheers Thom

Bertie, I'm now worried that you might not be cut out for our proposed lunch at Red Chilli. Go on, live a little - I think we should be the first egulleteers to try the Hot Wok Trotter. Cheers Thom

I didn't want to be the one to point that out... It seemed petty and churlish. Now you're stolen the glory though I kind of wish I had. Bloody moral highground... By a strange coincidence Phil did actrually play cricket for Lancashire (Freddy Flintoff recently admitted that the Neviller was the star of his junior side) and had a promising career ahead before switching to football. Jay isn't a big sport-lover (ladyboy), but we love him anyway for his generosity, sparkling wit and casual baiting of organic-shoe wearing, freerange pasta smallholding Observer readers. Cheers Thom

Restaurant magazine tells me Anthony Flinn has opened a new restaurant in the Flannels department store in Leeds. He's quoted as saying it "We've got a fine dining restaurant and wanted to serve simpler food but still good quality". I'm quite suprised actually. The Flannels group seemed to have lost their way a little recently, at least in Manchester where they seem dated and off the pace compared to Harvery Nicks and Selfridges. That said, The Flinns are extremly shrewd cookies and must know exactly what they're doing and have a long term plan in place. Flannels isn't really a department store (as in House of Frazer etc), it's actually a designer clothes retailer about the size and scale of a individual designers flagship store in London or NY. I know places like Donna Karan in NY and Armani in Milan have inhouse bars/restaurants, but I've never really understood whether the footfall and clientele of the shop become profitable onsite diners or not. I'll watch with interest - the idea of Anthony flexing his culinary muscles with classic brasserie cooking is a tempting one. Gary, is it actually open yet? Have you been? Is it worth a trip? Cheers Thom