thom

Ohhh... Nice stat! It's commonly quoted by Marketing Manchester that our fair city is the number three UK tourism destination after London and Edinburgh so that does add up. Then again I did hear a rumour that these figures are inflated by including all the tens of thousands of annual bed nights spent at Manchester airport's hotels by people staying over to fly out early the next morning. Technically they count I guess, but in terms of bringing revenue into the city? Possibly not. And then you take out the 75,000 people a fortnight from London, Ireland, Scandinavia and the Far East visiting Old Trafford... Oh come on, I'm a United fan but even for me that was to good an opportunity to miss! And Allan, I knew being too lazy to double-check Michelin's website would come back to haunt me! So that only leaves Glasgow, Newcastle, Liverpool, Manchester, Leeds, Sheffield, Nottingham and Bristol to prove my hypothesis? Anyone want to knock another off my list? Cheers Thom

Zigackly! Vermillion is great (if barking) and The Modern, Grado and City Inn are all also strong (though with the latter the chef is about to do a flit to The Hilton down on Deansgate) and we still have Elliot's and Abode to come. I think Elliot's should be great but I'm really not sure what to expect at Abode. Michael was always adamant he was going to bring a Michelin star to Manchester but he's not the first person to say that in the last few years... They now seem to have downgraded some of the plans for the F&B in the restaurant but he is shipping a serious chef in so maybe he will do well in what is a very tricky basement site. Gary, I think you are spot on RE The Michelin thing. If you are looking purely at a regional city's centre (as in it's central business/retail/leisure district) how many in the UK can claim a Michelin star? Off the top of my head I don't think Glasgow, Edinburgh, Newcastle, Liverpool, Manchester, Leeds, Sheffield, Nottingham or Bristol can. With Birmingham I always lose track of whether Simpsons and Jessica's are actually in the centre or are on the peripherery or in more residential areas? Several knowledgable industry people have told me that property prices (amongst other costs) make it impossible to run Michelin star restaurants in city centre's outside London. Considering the amount of Michelin stars surrounding the cities listed above you would have to say that is borne out. The market is there, but either the restaurants don't add up to work in the city OR the public simply won't do that style of dining in the city (cue discussion of provincial public transport systems and their impact on regional dining patterns etc etc). Anyway, back to my point (if indeed I had one!). I tried to get across in the Restaurant magazine article that that the lack of serious fine dining was not just Manchester's problem. Liverpool (remember I'm only talking city centre's here!) is also short and what is there really hinges on Paul Askew (local boy done good). In Newcastle most of the serious dining happens through Terry Laybourne (local boy done good). Take Anthony Flinn (local boy done good) out of Leeds and the fine dining scene isn't exactly blossoming there (especially as No 3 has downgraded it's offering). So, at the risk of repeating myself, I do believe what we need is a local boy (or girl) to take the plunge and set their stall out to raise the level of cooking in the city. Maybe the talented David Gale will take the plunge after The Hilton? Possibly Alison Seagrave will strike out on her own after Harvey Nichols? Will Paul Kitching finally bit the bullet and go urban on us? We shall see. Lord knows it's a big leap to make, and I am well aware that it is easier to pontificate on the sidelines than it is to be the chef-patron who puts their bits on the line and works their arse off seven days a week! Oh well, it promises to be an interesting twelve months of eating in our fair city. Cheers Thom

Yes, The Leeds list is missing off the website but considering the similarity of the food menu's between the two outlets I would expect the wine-list to be similar to Manchester's and that can be found here: Winelist And on another note I might have to give those bone marrow dumplings a try... Cheers Thom

I meant to ask you about Sam's Chophouse actually Gary, and this thread seems as good a place as any: http://samsleeds.thevictorianchophousecompany.com/ The original one in Manchester (along with it's sibling, Tom's chophouse) is an absolute institution. You know it from experience - we had a very decent lunch there (even though we were stuck with Bapi) and I know Jay also loved it when he went along to review. Not sure if it's had the same impact over the Pennines though? The menu looks similar so as long as they've kept the standards up that should hit the spot, and they claim to have the best wine list in Leeds which I thought would put them on your radar! What say you? Cheers Thom

Yes, the old Michelin thing... It's been a millstone around the city's neck for 33 years now (even, unfairly in my view, making the cover of Restaurant maagzine - I got quoted as saying "we need a messiah!" which sounds a bit Life of Brian out of context) and doesn't show any sign of shifting. You can't plan for it to change though, it's not going to happen from the top down with buckets of cash or investment, it needs a talented commited local chef to stick their neck on the line and take a risk on an off-piste site (a la Anthony Flinn in Leeds, though admittedly he hasn't got a star. Yet?). Michelin is not the be all and end all though, and nor should it be. Also, after ten years of insane restaurant and bar development the last eighteen months, though featuring a smattering of small openings of note, have lacked launches of any real scale, ambition or interest. With The Modern, Vermilion and Grado all open, and Ithica (finally, possibly) to open shortly there is finally a much need bit of momentum. As to whether The Modern is like the Chophouses? I don't think so personally, and nor does Roger who runs the Chophouses. Try The Modern, I I hope you'll find it a very different but equally satisfying experience. Grado is something special as well, to call it a Tapas bar undersells it, as it is a serious Spanish restaurant which reminds me of Fino and maybe has a hint of Barrafina as well. The dishes there are refined and clever but still authentic, and with the service and fit-out it is a quality operation. I assumed it was one of Paul's roll-outs but he has really gone to town (to the level of asking local Glenfiddich winning food-writer Clarissa Hyman to secret shop it for him) and it will remain a one-off. As a counterpoint El Rincon is a down and dirty (literally sometimes) tapas bar. I love the bustle and the atmosphereand have a soft spot for the place but let's not pretend it's good food (and I think it is getting worse lately). Anthing that can be micro-waved is (patatas bravas and meatballs will hit your table within a minute of ordering, sometimes still with cold spots) and I know one of Manchester's leading chefs who will not eat there after getting served what was, in his opinion, off fish on not one but two occassions. The waiter argued it was meant to smell like that. Seriously. That said, I love their tripe and blood sausage casserole... And Vermillion...? Well what can I say. The food is good to very good, the decor is jaw-dropping, and the concept and location - mad, mad, mad. As I am fond of saying, so mad it might just work... Definitely worth a trip, it's quite an experience. I just love the fact that it is a labour of love/ego trip of an international prawn magnate. So is Manchester's dining scene perfect? Nope. Does it have it's Michelin star? No. Any sign of one in the offing? Not really, sadly. But without doubt it feel like things are picking up again and am I personally getting excited about dining in the various new and imminent openings? Oh yes! Cheers Thom

We have a sliding scale - a minor indescretion gets you a pigeon's head against your toes; intermediate naughtiness will earn a whippet's bonce in lieu of your hot water bottle; the worst cases do indeed end up with the top half of a shire-horse nestled under their duvet. Do it again , and you'll be pushed into the Irwell with your pockets well-laden with the aforementioned brasses. Cheers Thom

Some fair and valid points. I did clearly state I was on the Urbis trading company board on the "Manchester lunch reccs" thread and if I rushed through the point on this accompanying thread it was probably through trying to minimise repetition between the two (hence my request that mods could remove the original dupe review post - I might just rejig the content and link it). To be clear I am not in the employ of Urbis and have no direct operational input there, so I do feel that as long as my links are stated the best way to convey the nature of the restaurant (which should be of interest to local eGulleteers) is to do a straightforward review. As I said I just told it as I found it and people can judge my review as they find it. RE My signature, it probably could do with an update as the current version (the only one I have ever had) dates back several years and relates to some light-hearted mocking of the lovely Mr Rayner. That said, my profile (though still a tad out of date) clearly states the following: "I am lucky enough to run the 'Northern Restaurant and Bar' Exhibition, and now also the 'Northern Hospitality Awards', both of which take place 27th/28th of March 2006 in Manchester. The former is the only hospitality trade event for the North of England and the latter, unsuprisingly, is the only hospitality trade awards for the North of England. Do you see a pattern forming here? As with so many of my previous roles it means I get to loiter around in nice restaurants and pass it off as work." Again it could do with an update, if only to ensure it also shamelessly promotes my newer ventures (www.rsvpnorth.co.uk and www.buyartfair.co.uk )! RE your wife's comments I can only thank her for her kind words, but with the caveat that as she also ended up marrying your good self her taste in men can only, kindly, be described as "eclectic"... And as to me being "a lovely bloke, good company, hospitable and always very helpful" - the sentiments are much appreciated, but it's the North Andy, we're all warm and friendly up here! Ah well, back to The Modern. I look forward to feedback from the first eGullet civvie to darken it's doors. Cheers Thom Added bit: I should know this after eight years but why can I edit my posts to my hearts content on this thread but when I revisit the "Manc Lunch reccs" thread there is no edit button to be seen on my contributions? Doubtless there is an obvious answer that an eGullet newbie/eight year-old could pityingly point out to me but all help gratefully received.

Ha! Someone was bound to say it sooner rather than later and you were always the bookies favourite Andy! I've known you long enough to take your spiky comment in good humour but I do think you raise a point which needs a general address: I think most would agree there is no problem with flagging up a business relevent to eGullet, whether it's a restaurant, a supplier or whatever, as long as any connection is flagged up clearly from the start. As we all know shilling is an unpleasant habit but luckily we ever-watchful denizens of eGullet seem particularly adept at rooting out offenders for a shame-faced confession (and much mocking). Bertie and I are linked to The Modern, but bless us we can't help that, and if anything we probably overstated this fact due to awareness of what a sensitive issue it can be. Personally I think The Modern should be of interest to eGulleteers, and as you know I get passionate about things I like (such as Mettricks, my butchers, who I champion ad infinitum with no commercial link!) so yes I've yammered on about it. As to whether my views carry any relevence or should be treated as unavoidable biased and therefore handled with suspicion? Well, all I can say is that firstly it would be a poor show if I were not professionally capable of operating at an "arms length" basis in such matters and that secondly, on a personal note, I have been on eGullet for ohhh... around eight years and having made some wonderful friends and contacts here it would be witlessly shortsighted to undermine those relationships (and what little credibility I have!) by throwing in a completely cynical and unrealistic review. If The Modern was poor (or even mediocre) I could argue that I wouldn't be involved in the first place. I would certainly add that even if I were involved I would be too embarrassed to flag it up with such prominence on eGullet. I wrote the review as I found it. Simple as that. Is The Modern a flawless five out of five? No. Is it a strong four with bags of potential? For sure, and I hope the review communicates that. Would I eat there regardless of links to the business? Yep. Am I already planning to go back again? Oh yes. Andy, I think the proof of the pudding would be to get you up so you can try it out for yourself. I know you like to pick my brains occassionaly for journalistic reasons to find out what is happening in the hinterlands of the North so take it from me - after a significant lull the gastronomic wheels of Manchester are turning once again. Make an overnight of it and I'll also take you to Grado (Paul Heathcote's suprisingly great tapas place) and Vermilion (£4.5m insane Thai bar/restaurant sited in the arse end of Miles Platting). My treat (for The Modern at least), as long as it doesn't compromise your journalistic integrity! Cheers Thom

Oh I think you'll find the same prices I did, I didn't get any special deals (though my quoted price did exclude service). Have a look at the prices on the restaurant menu. As you can see starters are from about £4:50 to £7:50, mains from £9:50 to about £20:00 and desserts are £4:50 or £5:00 (more for the cheeses). All in all the three courses (excluding drinks) should average out at around £25 a head. More if you want to throw in sides and coffees etc, though we did without. Even better value is the lunchtime/early evening menu - two courses (from a limited but still satisfying menu) are £12:95, three are £15:95. Again it's all detailed on the menu. I do stress once more though that although this all reads wonderfully (I hope!) The Modern is not formal or Michelin-chasing dining, and nor is it trying to be. Friendly, efficient service and unnaped tables are the order of the day. This is not a restaurant trying to change the face of gastronomy - you won't find insanely obtuse ingredients or be over-faced with techniques by a showboating chef. Instead, this is a place focusing (to paraphrase my old pa) on serving simple dishes made up of intelligent combinations of quality ingredients with minimal mucking about, all served in pleasing surroundings that allow you to relax and enjoy your meal. It sounds a simple and undemanding ambition, but it is frightening how few restaurants aim for it, let alone achieve it. Cheers Thom

Ha, yes! It's not a proper night out if, by the time you reach the menu, it doesn't appear to be oscillating slightly as you attempt to read it. Two pints of Budvar in 35 mins, a sprint across town plus a Pilsner Urquell (on a very empty stomach, I stress!) will do that to you. What a game too! Better still as I have both Tevez and Ronaldo in my Fantasy Football team. Ahhh... A six nil thrashing, beer, oxtail and rhubarb, all in one night. Only thirty four and I think I might have hit the high point of my life already. I'm not sure if I should be happy or sad... Cheers Thom

Thank you Mr Bear. PR/Media? I would, but I have lost my trendy rimless glasses and can't afford a Prada suit. Or a cocaine habit... RDB, yep, it I feel it is very much as good as I say. Promise. In the interests of balance I just met my better half for lunch (potato, roast garlic and rosemary soup at Love Saves the Day, followed by a Tunnocks teacake - perfection) and she reminded me that her starter was the grilled cep mushroom and Chat Moss winter herb salad. Although she liked it, I don't think it wowed her in the way that she was expecting. Conversely though she also reminded me of her dessert - how could I forget! - which was a delicious home-made rice pudding with poached champagne rhubarb. Absolutely fantastic. The rhubarb was divine (beautifully limp and intensely flavoured), the rice pudding pleasingly nubbly, and the only fault (if I were being harsh) would be that it was a shade heavy on the nutmeg. I've eaten at The Modern maybe four times now (and in the cafe run by the same team on the ground floor many times more) and besides a slightly undercooked slab of halibut (which caused much audible consternation and gnashing of teeth in the kitchen) my experiences have been nothing short of great. Don't underestimate the bar side of things either. The team there mix a mean cocktail and the spirit selection is inspirational. The cocktail list is seasonal (flips and brown spirits are key in the winter months) and is dedicated to classic cocktails from the pre-60's era. The champagne cocktails in particular get great feedback (my company Christmas party ended up there) but they are not too precious to let you order off menu and produced excellent whisky sours and old fashioneds on request. Bear, I never know with your dead-eyed wit whether you are being sarky or not but you do know who owns it now don't you? It's no longer run by global leisure group SMG (Have I got that acronym right?) as it was in Le Mont's days, but instead, after much negotiation with the council, it has been handed over to the trading company of Urbis itself who have being running the ground floor cafe (the secret best place in town to eat during the day with kids) with aplomb for a couple of years. Cheers Thom

In retrospect such a restaurant deserves it's own hand-crafted topic. So, below is my formal review, as lovingly rehashed and reheated from the "Manchester lunch reccs" thread: "Anyhow, I went to The Modern this Saturday with my better half, my dad and his partner. It was smashing (though in the name of transparency I reveal myself as being involved with the board of the Urbis Trading Company. The review is of course written at "arms length", with as much integrity as I could muster!) . We arrived at 8:30 (me two VERY swift pints to the good after having watched United spank Newcastle 6:0) and were seated in the comfortable bar with a couple of Pilsner Urquells for us blokes and a Mint Fizz (Elderflower, mint, apple, soda) for the girls. You'd normally expect a slick Manchester city centre bar to be packed to the rafters on a Saturday night, but although The Modern had a nice buzz we were still able to grab some seats. This is partly due to the fact that the official media launch has yet to take place (meaning so far it is a destination only for the more intrepid or clued-up) and partly because there is an emphasis on laid-back table service rather than a scrum at the bar. Darkness had well and truly fallen and being on the topmost floor of the building (Urbis, which isn't a museum) meant there was a fabulous city centre view to take in as we drank. Although the city-scape was unmistakably Mancunian (The Corn Exchange, The Big Wheel, the distant Beetham Tower) it actually had a feeling of being slightly detached from the city which you often find in the better class of hotel bars. I really rather liked it. Starving as we were we asked to be shepherded to the restaurant on the floor below. We got a rather fine table right in the "prow" of the building, meaning we retained the excellent views (a choice spot I'm sure eGulleteers could wangle for themselves). Menus were promptly brought and the only minor blip from our warm and professional waitress was confidently handing over a specials menu which was completely blank. As mentioned elsewhere the point of The Modern is that as the dining room of Urbis, with it's emphasis on the city culture of Manchester (and further afield), it should be a standard bearer for local and regional produce and local and regional dishes. I think the menu nails it with Reg Johnson's duck, Chat Moss herbs and Chelsford beef all represented, as well as the ubiquitous Morecambe Bay shrimps, Mrs Kirkhams cheeses, Goosnargh chicken etc etc. Oh, and the fantastic High Peak lamb comes from my local award-winning butchers, Mettricks (did I ever tell you about them?) and though you won't believe me the restaurant team found them through their own initiative, rather than through me force-feeding them pro-Mettricks propaganda like foie gras geese. I must stress at this point that although we came here for a good meal, the night was more about the company and good old fashioned nattering than being uber-food-nerds. When you have two small children you realise you rarely get to engage in simple adult conversation (either sophisticated or just plain rude) as you always have squawking, trouser-leg tugging infants in attendance. The meal was our attempt to redress the balance, and thus, criminally in the eyes of eGulleteers I’m sure, my recall of the subtleties of each dish may be lacking slightly. And I didn't take pictures... Starters were Reg Johnson's smoked duck salad (for me) with the rest of the party opting for roast scallops with bacon (not the black pudding version listed on the website menu) and parsley sauce and... bollocks... I can't remember the others... I'm tempted to say another set of scallops, and possibly the Jeruselem artichoke and rosemary soup with chanterelles. I told you I was too busy talking! The duck for me was one of the highpoints of the meal. I admit it is the third time in a row I've had it as a starter, but although variety is the spice of life so is knowing when you are onto a good thing. Beautiful tender meat with a rich little strip of fat, a subtle smoke and warm lentils cooked in a tasty stock and tipped over crisp salad leaves. The scallops were also excellent. They were simply served on mash, tightly wrapped in good crisped bacon, and with a pleasing though unpretentious dribble of sauce around them. The general feel at the table was that is was a long time since we had scallops which were cooked so well and presented so simply. So many menus recently seem keen to smother them in strong or exotic flavours and so it was a pleasure to have them combined with nothing more than spuds, bacon and parsley. Low-fi cooking maybe, but trickier to get right than it looks and the sign of a confident kitchen. Oh, bread was good too - lovely flavour, good texture. White, and brown, and... that's it. I like whacky bread as much as the next person (recent interesting experiences include muesli bread and curry bread) but actually being offered simple crisp warm rolls in two clear variations was a refreshing change in this era of over-facing choices. Mains were the roast monkfish, oxtail, girolles and red wine (me, again a regular choice) whereas the rest of the party went with the grilled john dory with roast salsify, loch fyne mussels, razor clams and a champagne sauce; the slow roasted saddle of Herdwick lamb, braised shallots, confit garlic and creamed spinach; and the chargrilled ribeye with braised onions, a red wine and bonemarrow jus and fat cut chips. The monkfish is a delight. Served on the bone it's a hefty portion and needless to say I tend to pile it on the fork slathered in oxtail and the reduced red wine as if it were gravy. Delish. The lamb (which I sampled) was also excellent with a well judged liquor (intense, but without the overpowering flavours you often get with roast winter veg) and garlic cloves still in their skins. The steak was a beast but was medium rare on the button, and declared "delicious". The dish was short of any sort of greens so although the portion was huge it would have been better if the waitress has pointed out that a side or two (we didn't need any for the other dishes) would add balance. The John Dory? I missed it completely, but the recipient declared it one of the best dishes she has eaten in years (though she was a bit overexcited as she doesn't get out much). By puddings we were flagging, so obviously we piled in anyway (except my dad, who is a wuss). The quince tart (which I had eaten previously) was perfect - tender fruit, nice sweet/sharp balance and light, crisp pastry). Personally I went for the cheeses, and God knows I can't recall them now though in my defense I'm pretty sure the waitress didn't identify them in the first place. They were served in smallish wedges which initially seemed a bit skimpy but were actually pretty well judged. The accompanying Chorley cakes were intriguing (kind of shortbread with caraway seeds - my Prestonian girlfriend hadn't heard of them before) and they could have been dry except for dipping in the honey. The third dessert again escapes me (note to self – Must try harder). Oh, drinks. With only two and half of us drinking we followed the beers with an all-purpose Huia Pinot Gris (£30) which we nursed through the meal and which did the job well. The waitress was confident enough to guide us around the wine-list and guided us away from a comparable but, in her opinion, lesser choice. It was a delight to see the place fully booked as although well-judged the fit-out is simple and clean rather than intimate and cozy - to offset the compelling view - meaning diners can feel a little exposed in a quiet service. That said, you can always hole up at the bar if numbers are light because the bar menu is also excellent (and you can get fish-finger sandwiches!). All in all the damage was, I think, around £130. Very good value for the standard of food, service and surroundings. I don’t know the chef but his pedigree is good (Harvey Nichols in London, possibly L’odeon) without being outstanding. His last stint was at the Individual Restaurant Company (Piccolino, Restaurant Bar and Grill et al) which although a slick and successful operation does require chefs to work as cogs in a machine. The Modern gives the impression of a talented chef, spreading his wings and starting to enjoy himself again. His passion for the produce shone through. My dad, a man of many words (ex journalist, and you know what they are like...) summed it up by saying the presentation was "fantastic without being prissy" and that there were "simple combinations of great produce with gutsy cooking and not too much fucking about". I know that this pretty much nails the intended ethos of The Modern and if success is measured in terms of achieving the aims you set out for yourself them I think The Modern is a winner. I eat here not because of my links to the business, but because it is exactly the kind of restaurant that I enjoy eating in, and exactly the kind of restaurant that Manchester needed. Final point - It is still a bitch to find (my dad wants to return but didn't think he could find it unaided). The expensively architected building is (like so many expensively architected buildings) an operational nightmare, and access to the restaurant is via an almost invisible sliding door on the Corporation St side of the building. This lack of visibility and lack of connection to the city (it's a 5/6 floor lift-ride away) is the only thing that can hold back The Modern, and I know the team are looking to alleviate the problem. The Modern Cheers Thom"

Anyhow, I went to The Modern this Saturday with my better half, my dad and his partner. It was smashing (vested interest etc etc). We arrived at 8:30 (me two VERY swift pints to the good after having watched United spank Newcastle 6:0) and were seated in the comfortable bar with a couple of Pilsner Urquells for us blokes and a Mint Fizz (Elderflower, mint, apple, soda) for the girls. You'd normally expect a slick Manchester city centre bar to be packed to the rafters on a Saturday night, but although The Modern had a nice buzz we were still able to grab some seats. This is partly due to the fact that the official media launch has yet to take place (meaning so far it is a destination only for the more intrepid or clued-up) and partly because there is an emphasis on laid-back table service rather than a scrum at the bar. Darkness had well and truly fallen and being on the topmost floor of the building (Urbis, which isn't a museum) meant there was a fabulous city centre view to take in as we drank. Although the city-scape was unmistakably Mancunian (The Corn Exchange, The Big Wheel, the distant Beetham Tower) it actually had a feeling of being slightly detached from the city which you often find in the better class of hotel bars. I really rather liked it. Starving as we were we asked to be shepherded to the restaurant on the floor below. We got a rather fine table right in the "prow" of the building, meaning we retained the excellent views (a choice spot I'm sure eGulleteers could wangle for themselves). Menus were promptly brought and the only minor blip from our warm and professional waitress was confidently handing over a specials menu which was completely blank. As mentioned elsewhere the point of The Modern is that as the dining room of Urbis, with it's emphasis on the city culture of Manchester (and further afield), it should be a standard bearer for local and regional produce and local and regional dishes. I think the menu nails it with Reg Johnson's duck, Chat Moss herbs and Chelsford beef all represented, as well as the ubiquitous Morecambe Bay shrimps, Mrs Kirkhams cheeses, Goosnargh chicken etc etc. Oh, and the fantastic High Peak lamb comes from my local award-winning butchers, Mettricks (did I ever tell you about them?) and though you won't believe me the restaurant team found them through their own initiative, rather than through me force-feeding them pro-Mettricks propaganda like foie gras geese. I must stress at this point that although we came here for a good meal, the night was more about the company and good old fashioned nattering than being uber-food-nerds. When you have two small children you realise you rarely get to engage in simple adult conversation (either sophisticated or just plain rude) as you always have squawking, trouser-leg tugging infants in attendance. The meal was our attempt to redress the balance, and thus, criminally in the eyes of eGulleteers I’m sure, my recall of the subtleties of each dish may be lacking slightly. And I didn't take pictures... Starters were Reg Johnson's smoked duck salad (for me) with the rest of the party opting for roast scallops with bacon (not the black pudding version listed on the website menu) and parsley sauce and... bollocks... I can't remember the others... I'm tempted to say another set of scallops, and possibly the Jeruselem artichoke and rosemary soup with chanterelles. I told you I was too busy talking! The duck for me was one of the highpoints of the meal. I admit it is the third time in a row I've had it as a starter, but although variety is the spice of life so is knowing when you are onto a good thing. Beautiful tender meat with a rich little strip of fat, a subtle smoke and warm lentils cooked in a tasty stock and tipped over crisp salad leaves. The scallops were also excellent. They were simply served on mash, tightly wrapped in good crisped bacon, and with a pleasing though unpretentious dribble of sauce around them. The general feel at the table was that is was a long time since we had scallops which were cooked so well and presented so simply. So many menus recently seem keen to smother them in strong or exotic flavours and so it was a pleasure to have them combined with nothing more than spuds, bacon and parsley. Low-fi cooking maybe, but trickier to get right than it looks and the sign of a confident kitchen. Oh, bread was good too - lovely flavour, good texture. White, and brown, and... that's it. I like whacky bread as much as the next person (recent interesting experiences include muesli bread and curry bread) but actually being offered simple crisp warm rolls in two clear variations was a refreshing change in this era of over-facing choices. Mains were the roast monkfish, oxtail, girolles and red wine (me, again a regular choice) whereas the rest of the party went with the grilled john dory with roast salsify, loch fyne mussels, razor clams and a champagne sauce; the slow roasted saddle of Herdwick lamb, braised shallots, confit garlic and creamed spinach; and the chargrilled ribeye with braised onions, a red wine and bonemarrow jus and fat cut chips. The monkfish is a delight. Served on the bone it's a hefty portion and needless to say I tend to pile it on the fork slathered in oxtail and the reduced red wine as if it were gravy. Delish. The lamb (which I sampled) was also excellent with a well judged liquor (intense, but without the overpowering flavours you often get with roast winter veg) and garlic cloves still in their skins. The steak was a beast but was medium rare on the button, and declared "delicious". The dish was short of any sort of greens so although the portion was huge it would have been better if the waitress has pointed out that a side or two (we didn't need any for the other dishes) would add balance. The John Dory? I missed it completely, but the recipient declared it one of the best dishes she has eaten in years (though she was a bit overexcited as she doesn't get out much). By puddings we were flagging, so obviously we piled in anyway (except my dad, who is a wuss). The quince tart (which I had eaten previously) was perfect - tender fruit, nice sweet/sharp balance and light, crisp pastry). Personally I went for the cheeses, and God knows I can't recall them now though in my defense I'm pretty sure the waitress didn't identify them in the first place. They were served in smallish wedges which initially seemed a bit skimpy but were actually pretty well judged. The accompanying Chorley cakes were intriguing (kind of shortbread with caraway seeds - my Prestonian girlfriend hadn't heard of them before) and they could have been dry except for dipping in the honey. The third dessert again escapes me (note to self – Must try harder). Oh, drinks. With only two and half of us drinking we followed the beers with an all-purpose Huia Pinot Gris (£30) which we nursed through the meal and which did the job well. The waitress was confident enough to guide us around the wine-list and guided us away from a comparable but, in her opinion, lesser choice. It was a delight to see the place fully booked as although well-judged the fit-out is simple and clean rather than intimate and cozy - to offset the compelling view - meaning diners can feel a little exposed in a quiet service. That said, you can always hole up at the bar if numbers are light because the bar menu is also excellent (and you can get fish-finger sandwiches!). All in all the damage was, I think, around £130. Very good value for the standard of food, service and surroundings. I don’t know the chef but his pedigree is good (Harvey Nichols in London, possibly L’odeon) without being outstanding. His last stint was at the Individual Restaurant Company (Piccolino, Restaurant Bar and Grill et al) which although a slick and successful operation does require chefs to work as cogs in a machine. The Modern gives the impression of a talented chef, spreading his wings and starting to enjoy himself again. His passion for the produce shone through. My dad, a man of many words (ex journalist, and you know what they are like...) summed it up by saying the presentation was "fantastic without being prissy" and that there were "simple combinations of great produce with gutsy cooking and not too much fucking about". I know that this pretty much nails the intended ethos of The Modern and if success is measured in terms of achieving the aims you set out for yourself them I think The Modern is a winner. I eat here not because of my links to the business, but because it is exactly the kind of restaurant that I enjoy eating in, and exactly the kind of restaurant that Manchester needed. Final point - It is still a bitch to find (my dad wants to return but didn't think he could find it unaided). The expensively architected building is (like so many expensively architected buildings) an operational nightmare, and access to the restaurant is via an almost invisible sliding door on the Corporation St side of the building. This lack of visibility and lack of connection to the city (it's a 5/6 floor lift-ride away) is the only thing that can hold back The Modern, and I know the team are looking to alleviate the problem. The Modern Cheers Thom

I'm hungry, to be honest I could eat quite a few things off that menu. Anyway it was owned by Gary's mate, it was the new place in town, it is full of beautiful people and/or footballers attacking each other in front of papperazzi (sp?), you can get your Caesar salad with or without anchovies - what's not to like, it sounds right up your street? On top of that, you seem to have conviniently failed to recall that the old standby I took you to - Mr Thomas' Chophouse - was met with universal approval! In fact, on our last Manchester jaunt I seem to remember you enjoying each and every one of my venue choices, even those that didn't serve food. I feel compelled to relive what was a hugely enjoyable afternoon/evening/night/early hours of the next morning by posting a detailed blow-by-blow review. Suffice to say we started off at the Michelin starred Juniper, and then followed the traditional drink-fuelled arc from high culture to low... I'm not one to point the finger but it was Bapi's fault. Cheers Thom

Shameless shilling on my behalf - Cheers Mr Marshall! Buy Art Fair doesn't take place till October, but yes, I think Gary is spot on in suggesting that a day spent perusing some fine contemporary art before retiring to The Modern for dinner would be time well spent. And you just won't let it lie regarding my previous choice of venue will you? It was a last minute option, and it was full of braying bufoons in pinstripe suits. I thought you'd like it! And as for The Modern, I know you will like it. A lot. So pull your finger out and get your diary in order. Sort out your sidekick too. Where is the Bapster anyway, it's been awful quiet around here without him. Go on, pick a date. First round is on me. Cheers Thom

I quite liked it back in the day but I must admit it really went off when Blanc dumped the business and Loch Fyne took over - they had a huge staff turnover and the quality was all over the place. That said, a couple of people have been and said it was good recently so we shall see. Not Modern British or French but as noted Grado is well worth considering. Fantastic tapas bar by Paul Heathcote which completely wrong-footed me by being a very serious one-off restaurant rather than the first of a mid-market roll-out. Strange Picadilly location, slick surrounds, wonderful winelist and some great tapas dishes (like octopus with baby capers and beautiful grilled quail). City Cafe is another favourite of mine. In fact we had our company Christmas do there and the chef, David Gale (ex Nico, Soho House, Rosetti, Selfridges etc) excelled himself - he is one of Manchester's finest. The decor is classy if bland, and it can be quiet but the food is excellent. Thoughtful dishes which are simple yet clever - monkfish bhajis are my most recent favourite, and some nicely sourced ingredients. Oh, and to give you an idea of the mentality of the chef he accomodated a veggie at our Christmas do by making the centrepoint of the meal (we had a completely bespoke menu created on the night of about twelve to fifteen courses) the most spectacular potato/butter pie I have ever had. British peasant food at it's best! Finally, I did indeed go to The Modern last night and is was absolutely spot on. Excellent. A great night. Expect a full review tomorrow. Cheers Thom

Will there be pictures ? ← And if there are, then who is going to go first...? Cheers Thom ← I don't have one so you will have to ← I seem to have talked myself into a corner... Oh well, I suppose that as long as it doesn't look like the last (battery) chicken in the shop then I shouldn't feel too ashamed. Anyway *cough* back to the moralities of intensive chicken farming. As you were people... Cheers Thom

Will there be pictures ? ← And if there are, then who is going to go first...? Cheers Thom

Martin, Like you I initially expected to see the media storm cross-over into eGullet as it has permeated so much conventional and online media, whether food-based or not. We talk about food here, do if an issue is big enough to get a whole "week" in the wider world surely it would be flavour of the month on here? But actually, the truth is maybe counter-intuitive. Anyone who takes food seriously enough to loiter around, let alone post, on a website such as eGullet has probably left battery chickens behind a long time ago. In fact, most of us probably only eat rare-breed chickens with which we were on first name terms. I did think about posting on the topic but lets face it it would take preaching to the converted to a whole knew level. At best there would be a ultimately unstimulating echoing of opinions and bigging up of each other's stance, at worst it would descend into a "my chicken is more free-range than yours" willy-waving excercise. If anyone on here does cook with battery eggs or eat battery chicken then I can only imagine they have some perverse reason for doing so and would actually relish rattling everyone's cages by playing Devil's advocate, should an opportunity present itself. Gosh. I'm getting to cynical... Cheers Thom

Oh oh, somebody is feeling left out... Oh alright then, you can be connected to The Modern too. You can be our official tame Southerner. Cheers Thom

Oh my goodness can we ever! I can't believe I got here first out of all the Mancunians/adopted Mancunian's on here... You're slacking lads! Or, actually maybe you're working too hard. First thing's first, "30 mins from Piccadilly" covers the whole of the city centre plus all the interesting suburbs of gastronomic note (Didsbury, Chorlton etc) - In short, Manchester is your oyster. Second things uhmmm second - forget French. Apart from the impressive but slightly Miss Haversham-esque French at the Midland we Manc's just haven't taken to French cuisine. Actually, if you simply mean classical formal dining then The River Restaurant at the Lowry hotel, for example, can hit the heights but for more accessible and affordable French brasserie-style dining forget it. So, we're down to Modern British. Here we do well. To be honest as with London there are a ton of places claiming to be cooking in such a fashion, and also as per London it can be a mixed bag. There is though one place I would heartily recommend, though only after flagging up my vested interest in the place. It is The Modern, which is in the old Le Mont site at Urbis, Manchester's musuem of city life and city culture. It has recently launched, and pretty much nails British cooking, with exemplary sourcing (especially of local produce), gutsy dishes (monkfish with oxtail) and slick if unpretentious surrounds. The Modern Service is warm and friendly, the wine list is great and the bar upstairs is a fine place to hole up for an afternoon (merging into evening...). It's USP though is the fact that it is perched up in the top of it's iconic host building, meaning you have some great views across the city, which are particularly spectacular at night. Yes, yes, yes I say again I am involved with the Urbis board, but quite apart from that I was there last week, I'm dining there with family on Saturday, and I will be back there again next week. It's modern (by name), it's undoubtably British, and it's really rather good. I'm planning to post a proper review after my dinner this weekend, but hopefully the bunf above gives you a feel for what to expect. Aside from the odd rough edge here and there (it is still early days) the only downside is that until the proper press launch later this month it's lack of street-front visibility means it can be quiet at lunches. personally, I like the peace and quiet... Cheers Thom Edit: Ok, I was second dammit, I was second...

Ok. I'll start on my doorstep in Glossop: Old favourite for a kick-off - (Mettricks Butchers) A wonderful, wonderful butcher which has twice won awards for the best butchers shops in the UK (One from Radio 4, one from Meat Trades Gazette!). Fantastic, passionate family, working with local farms to produce the best possible meat. They still have their own small abbatoir and home-kill all their animals, and home-cure they own bacons and make their own sausages. Their High Peak lamb in particular is fantastic and recently won a North West Fine Food Award ahead of the more famous Lake District Herdwick lamb. Next, a really local one (to me at least) - De La Tierra Chocolates I only found this stuff when it was on sale in the Love Saves the Day deli round the corner from my office in Manchester. Weirdly, it seems to be handmade out of a terrace house about 250m from my front door! The chocolate itself is seriously good, with the dark slabs studded with cherries being a particularly favourite of mine. You chocolate nerds can read all about the beans etc on the website but sourcing from Venusuela (sp?) seems to be the big thing. Ok, somewhere you can actually eat out next - Dowds Restaurant The fact that this place doesn't even have it's own website yet doesn't suprise me. Nor does the fact that the reviewing website classes Glossop as being in Cheshire (rather than Derbyshire). This is the sort of restaurant that no-one on here would rave about, but as the review points out in Glossop it IS worth flagging up. Here is a place that is an independent, trying to cook bistro/brasserie style cooking to a decent standard, and every town or neighbourhood should have such a place. Until twelve months ago, we didn't. Anyway it's actually not bad. As with so many of these places touches on the menu occassionally make you think it's over-reaching, but some of the cooking is decent, and it's cosy enough in a "not trying to hard" sort of way. Oh come on, I know it's not going to have you going there in droves but I cite it as it is the only restaurant of it's type (ie not a 80's style Italian, Indian, Greek etc) for a local population of 40,000+! Next up, two places just over the hill in Hayfield. Firstly, The Pack Horse. This place is not some high-falutin dining pub, and the recent refurb may be a bit bland for some (The Star at Harome it is not) but it actually does exactly what you want pub food to do (especially after a day yomping across the moors in the drizzle) and it's a proper community pub to boot. They source from within a ten miles radius, use Mettricks meat, and the chef (ex of the Waltzing Weasel down the road) does an excellent Bread and Butter pudding. Simple pub stodge done absolutely right. The other good place in town has a terrible name - Grumbleys Now I have to admit I have not eaten at this place for a while, but when I did it was pretty good. Simple pasta, well cooked, light saucing; it hit the spot. It seems to have developed a bit in the meantime and local word of mouth is great (though the sterling reviews on the website look a bit old now). It's next on my to do list. I'll try and write up the nearest Michelin star place next - Fischers of Baslow Hall - which has always been highly rated but seems to have loosened up and raised it's game recently. Also, it's related bistro Rowleys is actually excellent with a fine light touch with the cooking and very sensible prices (alas the purple, faux-ostrich skin banquettes). The other relatively recent launch of note is The Walnut Club, which despite having a unexplained monkey on it's website is all kinds of intriguing - great reviews, an ex-Novelli chef, an ambitious and intriguing menu, and a claim to be entirely organic. Ok, ok the reports so far may not have you actually moving to the Peak District, but should you visit here you'll be glad of this thread damn you! Cheers Thom

Right, we're on to a topic I have touched on previously here, but I felt compelled to give the subject it's own thread - The Peak District and it's food scene (or lack of) Having recently left the bright lights of central Manchester to return to the family seat of Glossop in the Peak District (hometown of Vivienne Westwood, Stuart Hall, Paul Raymond and the League of Gentleman no less. Oh, and Shaun Ryder and Bez) I was keen to get to grips with the local food and drink scene and see how (and if) it had changed in my absence. At first I thought it absolutely hadn't. Crushing. This is a National park like The Yorkshire Dales or The Lake District, both hotbeds of food and hospitality. It is an area of outstanding beauty; it's not short of cash and it is now becoming affluent commuter territory for the inhabitants of Manchester and Sheffield etc (these proximity of these major centres of population also make this National Park the second most visited in the world, after Mount Fuji no less!). Now, after a lot of hard work, resilience, dashed hopes and driving to the arse end of nowhere on potential lost causes I have actually uncovered a handful of hardy culinary perennials and some green shoots of gastronomic excitement. So, I thought I would share them with you. Be warned my comments will be long, meandering, full of smart-arse opinion and short on hard facts. It does though make a change from my normal long, meandering, smart-arse and hard fact-lite posts about Manchester. Anyway a brief overview will follow below, and I shall fill things in with more detail as my dining dictates and when my schedule allows (ie the next time I am feigning work).

Yes. What he said. Exactly, verbatim, word for word*. Cheers Thom *Variations on that response have got me, for better or worse, to where I am today...

Ohhh... An interesting concept! As noted though Bertie is a plastic Manc, and Bapi for all his many failings is a Lancashire lad at heart. So does that make it me and "Big-Daddy-Bapi" against Bertie "The Ex-Veggie" Wooster and Gary "The Publican" Marshall? Let's get ready to rumble... It is indeed interesting that the places noted - Red Chilli, The Chophouse and Croma - have gone from Manchester to Leeds. That path has been trodden before, often with limited success (Dimitris, Velvet etc) and does seem a natural extension for places looking to take a successful Mancunian concept further afield. I'm trying to think of anything of note coming the other way... Aggrah and EastZEast have been recent curryhouse successes, but are these Bradford based rather than Leeds? You got a Room first but thats a Scottish company I think? We have had a few places - Sapporo Teppanyaki and Samsi Yakatori - come in from Liverpool and Chester too. The fine dining point is interesting too. We have The River Restaurant at the Lowry with Le Mont and Establishment recently deceased. As Gary noted in Leeds Pool Court is gone, No 3 has become less formal (though is still very good) leaving Anthonys as the sole fine-dining outpost in Leeds. Is there anything new coming through to fill the niche in Leeds or does it seem the shift from fine to informal dining is happening in citys right across the provinces (and further afield) rather than just being a Manchester problem (which is what it always bloody feels like)? I appreciate it's a different kettle of fish out in the sticks where you have everything from Northcote to The Star to Winteringham Fields but how many fine dining places does the North (for example) actually support within it's considerable city centres? London Carriage Works/Hope St in Liverpool, River Restaurant in Manchester, Anthonys in Leeds. After that - Sheffield? I don't know. Newcastle? Maybe Black Door at a push - Jesmond Dene House is out of town. Beyond that I'm scratching. An interesting subject. It is pretty disproportionate when you consider the wealth and populations of the city regions. Are tastes changing, or do the target punters prefer to head out of town to splash out rather than in? Well, interesting to me at least... Sorry for wandering off-thread! Cheers Thom