thom

The Guardian is owned by Guardian Media Group who have a major presence in Manchester as they own The Manchester Evening News, City Life and it's associated guides (including Food and Drink). Therefore it's the work of an instant to port regular reviews across for the Guardian Guide. Cheers Thom

I choose to accept my mission... Of course now fellow Mancunian Culinary Bear is here you'll all actually get a balanced view instead of my own personal skew. Dammit I'm actually going to have to do some research instead of just making this stuff up... Cheers Thom

Hmmm... A fair point Endless Autumn. I suppose the quality of reviewing is naturally going to be dicated (directly or indirectly) by the quality of restaurants in that writers locale. So Christopher Gray liked the Didcot Harvester did he? Well, he may have uncovered another gem skimmed over by those stuffy and off-the-pace guidebooks, as I can find no reference to this restaurant in Michelin, GFG, Hardens et al. Time to add another gold pin to my culinary map of the UK. Ahh, it's nice to be back on here; you're a nice bunch. I see I even missed a thread on my pet subject - Manchester restaurants! So many posts, so little time... Cheers Thom

Morning everybody, First things first - Hello again: Though I'm not quite egotistical to expect that anyone actually noticed I have not been around for the last three or four months. My main excuses (always be sceptical of someone who needs more than one) are that moving house, having a baby and setting up a new company do take up one's time. Also, a virus ate my computer so I lost my log-in details. Grrrr.... Second thing - Providing context for this post: You'll be glad to hear I am still a bitter Northerner, continually spitting bile about the London-bias in the worlds of media and restaurants. In fact, I have more of a bee in my bonnet about it then ever as since leaving Restaurant magazine I have bought 'Restaurant and Bar', the exhibition for the Northern restaurant and hospitality industry (I won't stoop to turning this post into a corporate puff piece. I'll save that for later...). Third thing - The post itself: So food journalism - and specifically the dark art of restaurant critic-ing - are VERY London centric. This has equally been the case with relevent food journalism gongs (Glenfiddichs etc), and I note it's the same again with the British Press Awards this year - Our own Jay and Marina (good work chaps) as well as Terry Durack, Tracey McCloud, Giles Coren and Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall are all in the running for food writing gongs. It made me think. Whether they get the recognition they deserve or not, is there anyone outside London actually doing a decent job or reviewing restaurants? Let's face it, beyond the M25/Home Counties national reviewers are thin on the ground, so if tanything here is actually a greater need for decent regional/local critics. I imagine the Scottish papers do quite well, and there is a guy at a Birmingham restaurant website that seems quite well respected. I don't think there is much of note in Liverpool, Cheshire or Lancashire, but what about Yorkshire, the Evening Post is quite a serious journalistic paper? In my own back yard, the MEN have just wheeled off long-time critic Ray King, and replaced him with.... no-one. It seems now that every week a different staff writer who knows how to chew food gets the job. Sad. Besides that there are a handful of guys who write for City Life (Manchester version of Time Out), but with limited space they don't get to shine, and Emma-Jean Sturgess on the Metro who actually does a pretty good job. Anyone else fair better with their local critics? Cheers Thom

Nandos - very good. Grilled spicy chicken, decent salads and fries is always going to be a winner, and I admire them for the fact that it is as suitable as 'prep' for a beery night out as it is for a pre-cinema meal with the family. I repeat: Nandos - very good. Cheers Thom

Oh a couple of months back, with Andy Lynes, Anthony Bourdain and others in tow. I used to know the landlord really well, but they've been swapping duty managers quite a lot and the women we had in on the night was rude, agressive and in my opinion slightly bonkers. We were literally forcibly ejected, and it was only the sensitive disposition of my party which prevented me getting all Mancunian and being a little more forceful in expressing my opinions on her behaviour to the lady in question. All too painful to remember... It's a pity as I love that pub and waxed lyrical about it to anyone unfortunate enough to mention Manchester pubs in my vicinity. My own favourite was actually alternating pints of N4 with bottles of the oh-so-morish peach lambic. My two best MA storys are: 1) The fact that when looking up 'Manchester' in UK travel guides in a NY bookshop I found a particularly chunky and authoratative tome that only listed about 5-6 places under 'Food and Drink' for the city. Yes, the Marble Arch, bizarrely, was one of them. I found the idea of Sex and the City style Manhattanites teetering past the grim, decaying facades of Rochdale Road to get to the Marble hilarious. Of course I did actually end up with a similar situation with Anthony et al (minus Manalo high heels) but after the reception we got at the pub it wasn't quite as hilarious as I imagined. 2) When the TV programme 'Linda Green' was filming in Manchester, the technical crew were living in nearby flats and the Marble became their local. Sometimes the 'stars' such as Lisa Tarbuck, Amanda Holden and Jamie Theakston followed them. One evening immediately after the 'prostitute/bondage' Sunday tabloid revelations about Jamie he was in the Marble sat by the fire. He was growing agitated that two blokes with camaras were pointing at him, and said words to the effect that he was having a quiet drink and didn't want pictures. 'No no', the wooly jumpered, beared, middle-aged, paunchy snappers said, 'We're pub nerds (they may not have used this exact expression) and we're trying to photgraph the original Victorian tiling; could you move please'. How we laughed. Good to see you yesterday CB, mabye you'll even tempt me back to the Marble at some point (though the woman did shout 'You're barred!' as we left)... Cheers Thom

Culinary Bear, I'm getting little concerned now... Not are you only a Mancunian (like me), I also find from one of your earlier posts you are an ex-biologist (like me). Now, I find the Marble Arch is your local (like me!). Actually, I've now moved, but as the first inhabitant (Dec 99) of Angel Meadow for a long time the Marble Arch was my favoured local (above the Beer House and The Pot of Beer). In fact, if you search on here you'll see I have waxed lyrical about it on many times, but sadly I think it has slipped since it's heydey (and particularly when Phil ran it), and lately I have found the staff so grumpy and witless that I can't bare to go back there. They were quite staggeringly rude last time I was there with - namedrop - The great Andy Lynes and some guy called Bourdain in tow, and we were virtually kicked out. As a man who braves Glossop (one horse) town centre on a Friday night and thinks nothing of a quiet drink in Mary D's (Beswick) it takes a lot to offend me. But they did. Sad. Cheers Thom

Yes, I think the League of Gentlemen link sometimes narks them a little bit, but they do play up to it (you should see the Mettricks corporate Christmas cards) and seeing as they film it right outside the shop it would have been a crime to ignore it. 'Special stuff' all round then? Cheers Thom

Carlovski, I have heard of it, but sadly I haven't been. I have a few friends in Urmston though, so it is on my 'threatening to go' list. I have seen a handful of reviews, and they've all been very positive. City life loved it (Jonathan Schofield I think) as did The Metro (the excellent Emma-Jean Sturgess). I think old Ray King (Manchester Evening News) also gave it the thumbs up. The David Blunkett review you've found (bizarre) does seem to sum it up pretty well, but there is also a Sugarvine review below: http://www.sugarvine.com/Manchester/minisi...estaurant=18461 All in all it seems to be small, independent and passionate, with some interesting food competently cooked using quality, carefully sourced local ingredients. Sounds a good combination to me. The owners were involved in Palmiro too, so if you liked the latter I'm sure you'll like Isinglass too. Let me know what you think. Cheers Thom

In Glossop (where I reside) there is nowhere to eat out (boo!) but there are some very decent food shops (yay!). The best amongst them is Mettricks Butchers, and after raving about it for ages my evangelism has now been justified – it is has just been voted ‘Best Butchers in Britain’ at the meat industry Oscars (yes, they do hold such things). They are a fantastic butcher, traditional yet forward thinking, and they fought tooth and nail to keep their own small abattoir during foot and mouth. They’re even registering (delicious) High peak Lamb as a quality mark with DEFRA support. There really is no comparison between their locally sourced, home killed (and home cured, and home hung) produce and the decent but uninspiring meat that most butchers buy in boxed up. They’ve even got a neat little website (offering national delivery) to have a look at (http://www.mettricksbutchers.co.uk), and you’ll notice they can name every farmer they buy from. They’re lovely guys and well worth making a fuss of. Cheers Thom

Wow this is a firey one... Ever the pacifist (or coward), I find elements to agree with in everybodies responses. I do think the whole point of eGullet is for people to post personal experiences (good, bad or indifferent) about restaurants. Working this way has lots of benefits - accurate, up to date detail, no commercial/political sway etc but it also has certain cons which have to be taken into account - does a poster have a hidden agenda, are they being truthful etc. I honestly don't think Pweavers post is any different in motivation and execution to many other restaurant-review posts I've read on here. It stands out purely for the intensity of the negative experience, and that fact it is so out of character with previous postings about the restaurant in question. The latter two facts mean that the post possibly deserves to be questioned or debated in more detail than - for example - my niggly negative comments about the much-respected Cafe Boloud in the NY thread. That said, it can still only be assessed or questioned by the same parameters we would judge any eGullet post. I agree with Andy's points that t is important to moderate these forums as otherwise they could decend into spiteful 'He said - she said' catfights. I also agree that one should always attempt to resolve personal issues with the restaurant directly. That said it is PWeavers decision to whether to do this, and doesn't interfere with his right to post here. It's a public forum, and should they choose Claire of Claude are free to respond. I have had several excellent meals at Hibiscus, and the service has always been fantastic. Claire has always been lovely, going back to her days when she ran FoH (a grand term considering it was a team of one!) for the Merchant House. My own view (purely on nothing more than gut reaction) is that whatever happened at Hibiscus (and I think the chances of 'nothing' happening are slim to non-existent) was a combination of misunderstanding and over-reaction, and that both parties would probably give differing accounts and possibly even feel a degree of remorse. Still, I find value in nearly all of eGullets personal reports, and a lack of negative feedback of otherwise critically lauded restaurants would make the site a poorer place. I'm glad PWeaver posted, and I'm glad he seems willing to enter into a constructive dialogue with everybody here about his post. Cheers Thom

Afternoon Mr B, It's at Olympia (see http://www.therestaurantshow.co.uk for details) and should be a pretty good do by all accounts. I'll be down there for the full three days, so if anyone is about at a loose end they should let me know and we'll meet up to uhmm... network. Ok, I mean have a beer. I was at Taste the other day too. I actually thought it was a decent first crack at the concept and the standard of the food was excellent. Such a busy, busy life I have... Cheers Thom

Don't vote twice Gary, you'll get the Observer circulation department's hopes up if they think they've have added another Northern reader. Full marks to Conran. Over the last fortnight I have made the roast leg of lamb, the lentil/Toulouse sausage thing and the scallops on roast tomatoes. Every one of them was easy to do with a recipe that was robust enough to stand some tweaking/laziness, and more importantly they were all downright delicious (especially the scallops). The Bridge for lunch is always a good call. Like I said don't expect culinary gymnastics, just expect convivial surroundings, efficient relaxed service and well sourced, well cooked tasty food (in huge portions). Basically you walk out wondering why 90% of pubs/British restaurants can't do the simple things right. I would come and join you for a pint after work (I know how long your lunches can go on...) but I'm down at the Restaurant Show. Have a good trip though. Cheers Thom

These are national awards aren't they? To overcome the Observer's readership bias towards the South East I'll have to rally round the other 14 Northern readers... Go on Jay, take the bait... best cheap eats (under £20) The Bridge, Manchester Excellent well sourced, well cooked gastropubbery. Rib eye, duck fat chips, mushroom, tomato and hollandaise for £7:50 and desserts for £3.50 can't be bad. best restaurant Anthonys, Leeds Nuff said on here already (cheers Gary). Nice room, lovely service and most importantly delicous, provocative and technically superb cooking. best sunday lunch If you saw the size of my Sunday breakfast you'll understand why I rarely do Sunday lunch... best place to drink Nowhere springs to mind best restaurant for kids Piccolino, Manchester For the parents - Good modern Italian in timeless brasserie-style surroundings (think an Italian Balthazaar). For the kids - stuff they'll actully eat, high chairs on demand and wonderful patient, indulgent staff. best breakfast My house, Glossop I won't eat breakfast anywhere else. best independent food retailer Barbakan deli, Chorlton/Mettricks, Glossop Split decision. Barbakan for it's outstanding breads (Yah-Boo to Dr Atkins) and Mettricks for being the sort of skilled, passionate local butcher that everyone wants on their high street. best organic product Haven't a clue. best food or drink book Classic Conran It's not completely current, but I recently got the this book, and found it to be one of the most enjoyable and deliciously cookable tomes I have read (and cooked from) for years. Suprising but true. best food tv programme None. Nothing. Nada. I will watch all of it indiscriminately but I can't remember anything new really registering with me.

Good grief, culinary excellence in Derbyshire; O frabjous day! I did indeed bemoan the lack of decent places to eat around North (specificly) Derbyshire. As a returned Glossopite the only decent places are Thyme (over the tops into Sheffield), Rems in Chapel-en-le-Frith (Ex-Ivy/Juniper chef, just closed down) Apart from that it was into Manchester for decent places. I must say I find it staggering that in a beautiful, touristy, relatively affluent (Glossop has the fastest-growing affluent population in the UK don't you know...) part of the country decent eateries are so thin on the ground. I have been meaning to try Fishers (at Baslow) but have heard some mixed reports. Anyway, Johnny, your place looks very nice indeed. I will have to put Bakewell on my 'to do' list. I'm on a roll at the minute, having tried Anthony's this week, with the Merchant House due (again) on Saturday and a trip to L'Enclume in the next fortnight (it's only 1 1/2 hours drive door-to-door - hurray for the M6). Cheers Thom

A quick thank you to Mr Marshall for introducing me to Anthony's yesterday. A simply awesome lunch, with every dish a stand out, and a decent glass of raspberry beer to boot. A more eloquent critique when I have time (oh about May 2005), but it was a genuinely inspiring meal (company excepted of course...) and one of the best I have had for a good 18 months. Cheers Thom

Oakapple, you always beat me to the punch and explain it more eloquently than I would... Basically, my reply is what Oakapple said. Seems perfectly clear to me. Opson, lets face it you aren't going to change your mind, and of course I know that I'm right so I'm running out of reasons to keep the debate going... You're not just doing this to get onto next years guest list are you? As has been mentioned previously I still think a more interesting exercise is to look at the list, and in light of it's methodlogy (the opinions of 300 vastly experienced restaurateurs, chefs, critics and writers are not to be taken lightly), debate why they might have made the choices they have. Cheers Thom

No, of course you may not. You are though without doubt the 'Best' indignant and outraged person I have seen on eGullet since the heyday of Steve, LML, Simon et al bless 'em. Good for you. Cheers Thom

Hmmm... I think this has been covered but it is still my opinion that 'Best' is always subjective as it it not tangiable or measureable. That said if you define 'Best' as something tangiable and measureable in a specific instance you could argue the case. For example if I defined the 'best' lightbulb as the one that produced the most light then I could clearly pick a winner. I don't think that holds for restaurants (or music, film, design etc) as all the component elements (quality of ingredients, technical skills, originality, presentation, service etc) can only be viewed subjectively. To be honest if you don't accept the subjective nature of words like 'Best', 'Greatest', 'Most important' etc then todays media-saturated world will be a source of constant irritation and confusion for you. You can't pick up a paper or turn on the TV without such terms being bandied about. Let's face it, you can't have a headline or soundbite which offers full justification or explantation of the point or fact being communicated. This is a principle of media communication and I think modern society appreciates that a headline may hook you, but you need to read on to get the full story and make a value judgement on it's worth (ie form your own opinion). Cheers Thom

As Andy has rightfully identified the main problem with the Wolseley is knowing where all the 'e's go when typing it... Cheers Thom

Yes, what Oakapple said. I think everyone accepts that there is no ruler or machine that goes 'bing' to actual measure how 'good' a restaurant is in an absolute sense. Like films, music, cars or bed-socks talking about 'Best' with restaurants is always subjective and can always be disagreed with. This applies as much to Michelin, GFG, Zagat as it does to Restaurant magazine. Sure any guide may have a very detailed set of criteria but it is still down to opionion as to how each restaurant measures up against them. Put a load of 'experts' in a bag and they will disagree passionately with each other about any particular issue you care to mention... I think any set of opinions (whether I agree with them or not) has to be treated as valid if the sample size and knowledge of the panel is sensible and if any parameters regarding the survey are openly displayed. I genuinely think it would be productive to discuss why certain restaurants made the list if we don't rate them, and why those we do rate did not. Cheers Thom

A fair point Andy, particularly now the aggressive marketing practice of sending personal copies of each film to all the Academy members has been deemed illegal (Miramax in particular will be gutted). Can you see the more doddery members of the Academy zimmer-framing it down to their local multiplex to watch 50 nominated films? Particularly those in the foreign language section, which always inlcudes some teeth-grindingly sincere subtitled Latvian film about a man who's lost his hat? Or the lastest Tarentino for that matter. Cheers Thom

That certainly is an opinion. Cheers Thom

Yes but isn't that an inherent weakness in any large scale or global survey? It's (logistically/financially) impossible to make sure all people have 'experienced' all possibilities and equally it would be stupid to have a vote where no people have experienced no possibilities. I do believe though that their is a constructive middle-ground which is interesting, useful and valid. Hold on, this is that bloody 'opinions' thing again... Cheers Thom

Yep, That's opinions for you. Cheers Thom