Louisa Chu

We've been talking about Le Fooding for years. I didn't go this year - I was working. This is from the last thread. Felice - I did go to the premiere Fooding/Batofar event way back 2003. I strongly encourage everyone to go. It's a rare chance to hang out and chat with young, hip Parisians and meet some of the best and coolest chefs in Paris in a laidback beach party/backyard BBQ/block-party atmosphere. This year, two-starred Eric Frechon of the Bristol and three-starred Antoine Westermann of Buerehisel/Mon Viel Ami will be amongst the chefs there. For those who don't read French, some of the more intriguing menu items include a beef and horse combo from Ploum; a head to foot hot dog from M. Frechon; and rosemary lamb's tongue on a stick with celery and lamb's foot ragout from Thierry Breton of Chez Michel. Even if the food runs out - and be forewarned that it does - there's plenty of free Badoit and good karma for all - this year's event benefits Action Contre Faim - Action Against Hunger. ←

Jeffrey, thanks dude! Regarding the stem about which your friend Michael Ruhlman makes allegations: I think there's been entirely too much fuss made about it. After all it's only one mise en place chore. The tricky thing is doing the thousands of others daily for service too.

And then you knotted the stem with your tongue?

If you're primarily going to El Bulli as a diner, I suggest taking the bus from Barcelona to Roses and then catching a taxi up to the restaurant. Be forewarned that the cab fare is a rip-off - they charge about 20-25 euros each way. But otherwise Roses is so small that you really don't need - or want - a car. I stayed at the "camping" - the Cala Montjoi "City of Vacations" when I started my stage there last season. They said that I was the first stagiaire to be able to walk the beach home at the end of the night. But I'd bet big money that they're already booked for summer high-season - it's the kind of place that four generations of family gather every year. As for the drive down the road at night? You do not want to be on that road when the stagiaires are unleashed for the night. It is a hair-raising, heart-in-your-throat, white-knuckle race to last call in Roses.

cathexis (ca·thex·is) (k[schwa]-thek'sis) [Gr. kathexis] in psychiatry, conscious or unconscious investment of psychic energy in a person, idea, or any other object. Michael, what can be done to persuade you?

Did you all notice that he has a virtual patisserie under construction - that's going to offer home delivery?? Thanks Ted for finding the site!

Not inferior. I tasted the new Wonka Donutz candy bar at the Candy Expo in Chicago. According to Nestle, it's "not a baked good" but just "shaped like a donut, with a chocolate fudge center and sprinkled with colorful candy pieces." I think that rather than fudge, it's lighter in texture - more like what Americans think is a chocolate truffle - a darker-than-milk-chocolate dipped ganache - but donut shaped and with sprinkles. Nestle also eagerly pointed out that it's the first candy bar that's not a bar - the donut shape chosen to make it more interactive with "'tweens" - i.e. eating it off their fingers while worn like rings, etc. And the Wonka bar - "milk chocolate with graham cracker pieces inside" - in fact has always been on the market - though rare - but is being released in a new, smaller, and they hope more marketable 1.3 ounce size.

I realise I'm not the average American since I live and work in Paris, but - I'm sorry - are you kidding? Being a hard working professional chef in a competetive Michelin-starred Paris kitchen today still means, yes, shoving and pushing - and the occasional on the floor fist-fights. BTW - good picnic spot - Champ de Mars - on the Ecole Militaire side. The sun doesn't set until about 10 at night in the summer - plus the lights twinkle on the hour - it's pretty magical. What to bring - all easy walking/carrying distance - some of the small fruit and nut breads from Poujauran, seasonal cheese from Marie-Anne Cantin, a chilled wine from from Les Grandes Caves on rue St. Dominique - ask them to open the bottle so you don't need to carry a corkscrew.

blakej - wow - thanks! But you were just very lucky - it's really just luck at this point in getting a table. docsconz - yes, creativity does go on all the time. But remember - it's not just summer dishes - with a season from April to October - the menu spans Spring, Summer, and Fall. Revallo - I hear that one of the top goals this season was to "kill mise en place" - that is to say to not have so much of it - can you imagine that chapeaulong? - especially during service. How's that going? I'll be there later this year to see for myself. Albert Adria heads El Taller with Oriol Castro. Albert calls Oriol "one of the most creative people I've ever met - and given Albert's own impressive body of work, that Ferran's his brother, and that he's worked with big brains like Heston Blumenthal, that's saying a hell of a lot. I can't say much more right now - I just spent a week with Albert in Chicago where he taught two classes at the French Pastry School and I'm writing an article - I'll post where/when as soon as I can. But there's a pic of Albert and the El Bulli birthday surprise on my blog if you'd like to see - but if you're going, don't look - don't ruin your surprise!

How do you feel about the Vomit flavour? I just tried the new Baked Beans, Bacon, and Rotten Egg flavours. The Baked Beans was pleasant but mild - lacked some of the caramel depth. Bacon, surprisingly disappointing - none of the characteristic smoke and the sugar overly masked the salt - sugar always hides salt. Rotten Egg, that was good - a round sulphurous funk. I was really surprised - which seems backed up here - that there's known a love/hate relationship with Buttered Popcorn.

For better or worse, the closest thing to Benoit in Paris is L'Ami Louis.

Ian - you're so welcome. When your time comes for white winter truffles, consider buying one yourself to taste at home. Much less expensive - I'm thrifty too. Look for a small one - restaurant clients pay more for big ones for impressive slices - firm and very aromatic.

Lauren - so happy you too had a great meal at Vegetable. I know Marlena and at least one other person - also with a good palate - who weren't so lucky. On the Arpege eggs - the whites are replaced by soft whipped cream seasoned with vinegar - so it was that tartness you tasted that reminded you of the lemon souffle. How beautiful that your mother has a signature lemon souffle. The purple flowers you had in the risotto were fleurs de bourache - flowers from the herb bourage. There's a trend at the moment in Paris with Michelin-starred chefs using them in salads, as a garnish, etc. Sadly you didn't miss much in the red fruits infused with hibiscus - just macerated berries in juice - no discernable hibiscus. The ice cream boutique you went to was Damman's. Have a great summer in the mountains - I miss them in Paris!

You had white summer truffles - which are completely different in aroma, taste, texture, and most importantly price from white winter truffles - they're less than one tenth the price. They're black on the outside - creamy white and veined on the inside - and much more subtle in aroma and taste - and yes, more starchy in texture. Knowing the chef's reputation - he's probably using a good quality white summer truffle. But when you get a chance, give white winter truffles a chance - the aroma alone will blow your mind.

Felice - I did go to the premiere Fooding/Batofar event way back 2003. I strongly encourage everyone to go. It's a rare chance to hang out and chat with young, hip Parisians and meet some of the best and coolest chefs in Paris in a laidback beach party/backyard BBQ/block-party atmosphere. This year, two-starred Eric Frechon of the Bristol and three-starred Antoine Westermann of Buerehisel/Mon Viel Ami will be amongst the chefs there. For those who don't read French, some of the more intriguing menu items include a beef and horse combo from Ploum; a head to foot hot dog from M. Frechon; and rosemary lamb's tongue on a stick with celery and lamb's foot ragout from Thierry Breton of Chez Michel. Even if the food runs out - and be forewarned that it does - there's plenty of free Badoit and good karma for all - this year's event benefits Action Contre Faim - Action Against Hunger.

A Jean-Paul Hevin chocolate macaron - he has several - won first-place in the "Classic" category in Le Meilleur Macaron de Paris/The Best Macaroon in Paris contest held last Wednesday, June 1st. He also gave a macaron making lesson at L'atelier des Chefs yesterday afternoon - a hip cooking school here for home cooks - normally taught by young classically trained pro cooks.

Luis told me that anyone can ask for the kitchen table - seats eight - nine max. Its available based upon availability - which includes whether or not Ferran wants it to work from during service. It sits right below the the window through which FoodMan shot the photo - and it's the same table at which Tony Bourdain sat in his elusive epic "Decoding Ferran Adria."

John - Demorand/Zurban is wrong - Le Comptoir is open for dinner Friday nights too - closed weekends only. I had that pot de chocolat too - the next night.

Ted - have you considered the professional courses offered by Pierre Herme at Ferrandi and/or ADF/Le centre de formation d'Alain Ducasse? Also, elBulli offers a roughly month-long intensive pro course somewhere in the world every year after the end of the season - last year it was in Italy. See you soon I hope.

Right now, they take reservations only 2 weeks in advance - by phone, fax, and email but best by phone. Plus they plan to stay open all summer - no vacation/August closure. John - you're welcome. BTW I'm not Anglo.

John, actually they were mango caramels you had at Le Comptoir last night.

Lauren, je vous en prie/you're so welcome - so glad you liked Vegetable as much as I did. Do also try to go to La Table Nutella. Another temporary restaurant - another egg, this one chocolate - and vegetarians need chocolate too, yes?

You must go to Vegetable - Alain Passard's "ephemeral"/temporary restaurant in the department store Printemps. He has items straight off his Arpege menu - made with produce direct from his famed personal garden - for a fraction of his three-star price.

Miguel gets overtime?? I'm working in the wrong restaurants!

He actually has a brand new book out - Sensations Nutella! I saw it at the temporary Nutella restaurant - La Table Nutella - where I also had one of his eggs.