Louisa Chu

Why a 2 month shelf life? Why not the standard 2 weeks for gastronomic chocolates?

Delicabar - chocolate/sweet and savoury pastries. When I give chocolate as a gift, I go to Delicabar. Beautiful, modern, and whimsical packaging - perfectly finished chocolate - clean, clear flavour. Chez Denise - bistro. Period.

Yes, but this is a complicated issue - as are most tax talks - and tax talks in France in particular. The original reason that fast food restos had lower taxes - true or false, right or wrong - is that they're more labour intensive and could/would hire more people. Is it right that sit-down resto owners are taxed more? I don't know yet. But I think it's a good bet that I - as a French restaurant worker - will see no extra benefits from a cut - and instead worry about what benefits will be further cut. And ditto that as a diner. Is this supposed to be the French translation of that American trickle-down theory from back in the day?

There are two organic/farmers' markets in Paris which should have some great tomatoes, etc. soon - Raspail on Sundays and Les Batignolles on Saturdays. Almost all of the other markets are not farmers' markets - vendors buy their produce from Rungis like the supermarkets - and the best selection goes directly to top chefs at restaurants. Have you been to le Potager du Roi - the Vegetable Garden of the King - at Versailles? Talk about heirloom produce - they grow and sell fruits and vegetables once grown and eaten by the Sun King himself.

Go to the organic Maison Kayser on rue Monge - a few doors down from Eric Kayser's original boulangerie - both in the 5th, line 10/Maubert-Mutualite. He has some of the best vienoisserie in Paris. Bite into a croissant au buerre and you'll see what I mean - beautifully golden appearance, exceptionally buttery aroma, crisp light crust, chewy and intricately layered interior. You can also get coffee, juice, yogurt, etc. to eat in at the small countertop with stools - or outside at tables.

Expect a subtle modern take on perfect French food - like what we're doing at Les Ambassadeurs. The sous-chefs from Les Crayeres spent some time in our kitchen in February - Didier Elena is a friend of my chef - Jean-François Piège.

If I haven't proclaimed my birthright already - let me proudly state that I'm of Toysan descent on my maternal side - or as my late, sainted grandmother would have said - Hoi-than. As for salted fish, I was reminded of it the other day when I was making a brandade gelatin fritter for an amuse-bouche. Funny.

tis not the season, for black nor white. ← It is still black truffle season - in France and with the right sources. I handle the black truffles daily at Les Ambassadeurs at the Crillon in Paris - and just yesterday received my standard weekly shoebox of baseball-sized beauties.

I hope not ALL the party flix. I can't wait to see your pix. Take care and hope to see you soon.

There is no restaurant at Le Cordon Bleu Paris. When I was a student there the marketing director told me that she'd love one but they just don't have the room. You can attend demos then taste the dishes prepared - demos cost 30 euros.

Australia.

The oeuf en cocotte no longer has foie gras - it's spinach, tomato and garlic confit, with a mushroom cream sauce - served with tiny mesclun salads and grilled baguette. And there's then actually a choice of four hot dishes: the Parisienne - parsley breadcrumb crusted chicken with a quenelle of tomato concasse and shoestring fried potatoes the Italienne - black truffle risotto garnished with a truffle vinaigrette-dressed wild arugula salad and shavings of parmesan the Norviegenne - potato pancake topped with thick slices of salmon and a quennelle of dill cream - oscetra caviar an additional option and the Americaine - a melange of a spare Caesar salad base with Homard Americain - the classic lobster dish There is also currently a dessert with a thick pancake garnished with lime zest and served with caramelised slices of banana. And I can personally attest to the excellent quality of the housemade vienoisserie - the pain au chocolat is especially good.

I work at Les Ambassadeurs. Not usually during brunch - but I will be this Sunday - filling in for someone. It is by all accounts excellent. It's a lavish buffet spread - including including the eggs, etc. - but also pata negra jamon. We also serve just about every flavour of Christine Ferber confitures. I'll get the precise menu this weekend.

I'm posting from the Salon - where the press office is in fact in the big animals hall. Not only can you get your picture taken with a furry white two month-old Charolais calf but learn to respect the many lives that will be taken for our gastronomic pleasure. You can also buy milk from the cows at the salon - milked and pasteurised - minimally to preserve the taste - from the very same day. Be sure to go to Hall 7.1 - the food from all the regions of France.

You asked for it - you got it - almost. Photos and descriptions on my blog here. If I can find the time - and a more stable connection - I'll post the rest directly.

Miguel - you are hilarious - and really entirely too sweet to me! As Robert's said, hopefully I will not need to any toasts to my health - but any would be most certainly gratefully appreciated. blakej - thanks so much for visiting my blog too. Another place to add to the Roses restaurant list is Cal Campaner - telephone number 972 25 69 54. A chef de partie who grew up in the area says it's like Rafa's - fresh local fish - but less expensive.

tarka had posted some more details on my blog. We're talking about a Pierre Herme Plenitude buche de noel - all chocolate - no fresh fruit or rose petals. They say it will hold well for about 48 hours. I say keep it in the box - in the bottom back part of your fridge - where it's coldest. Take it out - out of the box, onto a plate - at least one hour before serving. For macarons, do the same.

The Bourdain Experience is the working title of Tony's new show. It's scheduled to start airing on the Travel Channel in the States in April. This show will go beyond food - beyond the perfect meal of A Cook's Tour. It still starts with the food but it's the next chapter - the next chapter of Tony's life. It's a global exploration for personal discovery. There will be three pilots - Paris, Iceland, and New Jersey - I'm not kidding. I was hired as Tony's Paris "fixer" - we finished shooting yesterday morning.

Robert - Rose who works with Rafa is not his wife - "just an employee" - in her words. Miguel - I'm really not worthy of your high praise - but it sure is funny! And much appreciated.

Bragard - in the 10th by Gare de l'Est.

De nada - that was just a cut and paste from a friend. And thanks for visiting the blog - and the kind words.

El número de teléfono del restaurante "Snack Mar - Las Golondrinas" es el siguiente: 972 15 37 05

SnackMar/Las Golondrinas is in fact that place with the sliding doors and kitchen-cam/plasma-screen. It's very modern/minimalist - the only place like it there - and in all of Roses. You cannot miss it. They have not yet built up their website - but here it is - http://www.snackmar.com - I don't have the number with me - but I'll try to rustle it up. Rafa's reservations - you can only make them as early as the day before. I have a few posts on my site about Rafa's - just search http://www.movable-feast.com for Rafa's.

Congratulations to everyone who's won an El Bulli reservation so far - and it really is winning a lottery - but Buon Provecho to all nonetheless! If you are going to Roses, you must also go to SnackMar/Las Golondrinas. The chef/co-owner was the chef of El Bulli Catering - and is a good friend of both the house of Adria and the house of Rafa. The menu includes a rotation of El Bulli's greatest dishes. It's right across from Rafa's - and in fact it was Rafa who called the chef to tell him the space was available. Las Golondrinas was the name of the bar that was on that site for 30 years or so - so they kept the name for locals. They've only been open since July - and remain undiscovered by the El Bulli destination diners - but on most nights you'll find El Bulli staff and sometimes Rafa's himself there - for a post-service plate and drink.

All the markets will be open - except obviously on New Year's Day. In January the only thing that's really a must is the galette des roi - puff pastry filled with almond cream AND a prize - the day to have that is the first Sunday in January - Epiphany - but you can find it all around town until the end of the month. My favourite for the pastry has been the chocolate one at Pierre Herme - but I'm a sucker for the favours at Fauchon and even Lenotre. Otherwise 'tis the season for scallops and white truffles in the gastronomic restaurants - just go with the classics in the bistros - pot au feu, boudin noir, coq au vin, etc. Like others have said it's a cold wet - but not as cold as DC. Cafe culture - there's always a cafe in just about every arrondissement that will keep their tables out year round - look in busy areas and around major Metro stations - some are even covered and/or heated now. And there are always events around town - look on the Paris Office of Tourism website. Have a great time.