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FoodMan

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by FoodMan

  1. I say it will definitly make a first course for 6 people using pyramid molds, unless the molds are too big. You are right about the drink, both will work. I chose to drink the same wine I cooked and marinated with, a favorite white Bourdoux (sp?) of ours. I was not really unhappy about the presentation, I just thought it would look much better in a terrine mold. Let us (and show us ) know if you try it.
  2. Sorry, I cannot help. I used regular loose black tea leaves. Maybe a Linden/black leaves mixture is what she meant? Elie
  3. What a lovely soup! a butternut squash soup was requested from me for this years Thanksgiving dinner. So Paula's will probably be it! This weekend, starting on Thursday, I made the “Rabbit Compote with Prunes”. Like it was mentioned before, this is sort of a rabbit rillete. The bunny is braised in white wine and stock and lots of onions after an overnight soak in the wine and aromatics. It is then shredded and mixed with the reduced braising liquid, cream and sorrel (I used shredded spinach with extra lemon juice since I could not find sorrel). The last step is to pack the meat tight in a bowl and let it sit in the fridge overnight. The end product is a dome shaped molded rabbit “rillete”. I served it on Sunday night with a light salad with walnut vinaigrette and a few condiments (Dijon, homemade onion jam, cornichons) and slices of freshly baked Piolane bread. It was very delectable, moist with lots of flavor. The tea soaked prunes are definitely a perfect match, they turn kind of jammy and not too sweet, just right with the slightly tangy, savory rabbit meat. Since the rabbit is tossed with the reduced gelatinous stock/cream mixture, the final dish has the texture of a coarse pate, and holds its shape very well. So next time around I will probably place it in a terrine mold instead of a bowl. It will make for a much nicer presentation, unless there is another reason as to why it needs to be done in a bowl. Paula says the rabbit can sit in the fridge for up to 7 days, I can see why. I also had it for dinner last night and the flavor actually keeps getting better. Here are some pics of the prep and service of the rabbit.
  4. Wow! Mesa Grill! I sure did not see that coming. So how does that work Tony? Is Flay involved in any shape or form in granting access to the film crew? I also loved the Bouchon scenes and the food. Tony admiting two things in the same episode, Bouchon's fries are the best and a Flay restaurant in Vegas serves good food. Precious. I was not too crazy about the accordion piece or the poker game. Felt like just filler. Was Tony really writing an article about Vegas restaurants? For who? Is it out yet? Ok, enough questions...back to work.
  5. Yeap...Bourdain can write and is fun to read and he never poked fun at anyone's cooking abilities (not even Emeril or Flay, he called them names but NEVER said they cannot cook). Psaltis is "hopefully" a better cook than writer. Only time will tell I guess.
  6. wow...I love the cheesecake "recipe". I will have to try as soon as I can get my mind wrapped around the details of what the hell she is talking about. Why anyone wants to "fool" their guests so much is beyond me. Buy the poor bastards some quality cake from a good pastry shop and they will be more impressed anyways.
  7. This is on my to-do list very very soon....Too bad sorrel is no where to be found now. I was thinking about replacing it with spinach and some extra lemon juice. Any other suggestions? ← Good grief, look at the seasonal differences between Minnesota and Texas. My sorrel plant is huge and I'm trying to work out what to do with it before it freezes (any day now). Think it would keep in a care package? Barring that - spinach with lemon might be a good substitute. You won't get the inimitable army drab of cooked sorrel, but I doubt you'd miss that part anyway. I'd better look at that recipe. ← Sorrel is not really cooked, just finely shredded and added at the end.
  8. This is on my to-do list very very soon....Too bad sorrel is no where to be found now. I was thinking about replacing it with spinach and some extra lemon juice. Any other suggestions?
  9. Here are my notes about the "Braised Short Ribs with Prunes": I finally made this recipe and we had it for dinner last night. It was excellent. It had wonderful flavor, very deep and complex. The prunes, of which I was a little skeptical, worked great with this dish. All in all a winning recipe. That being said I do have a few comments mainly to clarify a few things: Prep time: about 45 minutes Cooking time: about 4 total • The only “problem” with the recipe, and I use this term very loosely since it really did not affect the outcome, is that there was too much solids in relation to the liquid especially during the marinating period. It was impossible to keep ALL solids submerged in six cups of wine. Either the solids should be reduced a little or the liquid increased. • In the ingredient list you specify a cup of thyme sprigs tied into a bundle…..It was clear to me that you meant to wrap the whole thing in a piece of cheese cloth, but it might not be apparent to everyone who reads it and tying peppercorns in a bundle might be tricky . So just some clarification will be good. • I did not need to use any lemon juice or verjuice, I thought the acidity was perfect. • In step 5: 3 hours might be way too long to braise the ribs. Mine were done in two and • came out very tender. You also might want to move this line “Set aside the skillet without washing for use in the next step” to the end of step 4 since people might already wash it by the time the ribs are being braised (I did). • In step 6: I love the skimming process you have in here, it works great!!! However, isn’t it a good idea to reduce the sauce in a metal pot instead of the earthen dish that might be used for braising? I used my only clay pot to braise, a Chinese sand pot, but to reduce it I was too worried it might crack so I put the sauce in a metal pot and continued to skim and reduce. • In step 7: it is a little unclear here. Where did the casserole come from? In step 6 we put everything (ribs and sauce) in a “container”. I assumed you meant to put everything back in the casserole braising dish and that is what I did but the step needs to specify that. Please let me know if anything I said does not make sense or is not clear. I enjoyed this dish very much and look forward to making it again. PS: I could find fresh Porcinis so I used regular white mushrooms. I did use the dried Porcini in the marinade though.
  10. Like I said and it seems more evident as this thread progresses, DP has decided to sling shots at very well respected and established people without earning his own stripes. That is why the Beard dinner post was...posted. It's not that the FL walk in was not a little unorganized at one instance or that Barber does not use cookbooks for ideas (like everyone else). the problem seems to be that Psaltis for no other reason than to make himself look better brought these subjects up and made himself a target. So he better be a damn good chef or no one will cut him ANY slack. Elie
  11. This is a good question to ask Paula during her upcoming eG Conversation, calendar entry here. Let's not steer too far away from recipes and cooking on this thread. Please hold the general discussion about the book for later when Paula is available." We can allow Paula to elaborate on all the work she's done for the new edition. Thanks, Elie
  12. Lucy, these look awsome, I love the color and the presentation actually. Boy I wish it is as feasible for me to buy fresh veal kidneys. My butcher said he only gets them in bulk for some local chefs sometimes, since no one buys them. Unfortunatly I have no way of using up 10 pounds of veal kidney...unless I hold a veal kidney bbq of some sort . I tested two recipes for the book, the "Short Ribs with Cepes and Prunes" and the "Stuffed Duck Neck". Both made it into the book and I am glad to see Paula made small changes based on my notes. I am pretty sure I still have the notes on at least one of them. I will post those as soon as I can find them. Elie
  13. PBS and Discovery Home offer the best non-FTV cooking shows. In my opinion the quality varies, I sort of have them divided into the following groups (can u tell I'm a Cooking show nerd ): 1- Watchable mainly as background noise but never inspired me and mostly caused me to chuckle at their comments and/or format: These include "License to Grill" and to a lesser extent "Chef at Home". The first show has better food, but the second one has a better host/format. Neither is that interesting. "Daisy" from PBS is in this category as well. 2- Interesting/Very Amusing and fun but never inspired me to cook anything: These include "Rosemary: QOTK", "Cooking In Brooklyn" (sometimes his food is downright awful looking but the guy is funny, cool and comfortable infront of the camera), "The Best", "Yan Can Cook". 3- Good shows with good food and are educational or at least inspiring. These inculde "Kylie Kwong", "Friend For Dinner" (except when Ainsley is the guest ), "Great Chefs of The World", "Fast Food My Way", "America's Test Kitchen". I am also looking forward to Marcus Samuelsson's new debut on Discovery Home channel in November. His show is called "Inner Chef" I think. I have high hopes for it but we'll wait and see.... Elie
  14. I enjoyed the Sicily one very much as well. It has so far been the best, don't know maybe because I have a soft spot for Italian stuff in general. My favorite part was the part with the caper pickers (caperers? caperinos? ) and the meal he shared with them. those fish looked awsome, even if they forgot the salad. I really thought he will chicken out from the cliff jump! I would' ve. Since he did however, maybe if he ever makes it to Beirut, Lebanon he might try jumping of off This rock, the famous Rouche Rock, located right off the beach of western Beirut. No kidding some people do, I have seen a few men jump off and not get injured. On the other hand it is quiet the popular suicide location . Elie
  15. Alison Cook's review. I have driven past this place before but always took it for a trendy over-priced wine shop! I was pretty surprised to read Cook's review above. I have never, certainly, not in Hosuton been in a restaurant (it is a restaurant whether Monsterville Horton IV; the proprietor with the cool name , admits to it or not) where wine is the main event. Needless to say I am very intrigued. Has anybody been yet? If so any comments are appreciated. What about the future of the place? Do you think it will take off? Will we see a beer-centric restaurant in the near future? Elie
  16. Is it gelatin or collagen? Or is gelatin composed of collagen? ← I believe what chef Bowles is speaking of is : when it (collegen or gelatin) is rendered it allows the meat to become crispy. I think that we can take HIS word for it - He was chef Tramanto's sous chef at Tru some years back and the youngest "best new chef" in the country. With all that said - "he's the man" Thanks agian, ChefGEB ← Not to mention that his recipe (from F&W) for quail with steel cut oats with green peas is one of my all time favorites. I use the oats as a side for all kinds of stuff. To answer Kent's query, "It is well known that gelatin is a product of the structural and chemical degradation of collagen." If you really need more detail here is the whole piece . Elie
  17. A couple of items in the latest W&D bugged me: There is nothing wrong with “defending” your favorite spot, but don’t claim to be an expert in areas you are not! Mr. Westheimer loves Tila’s apparently and then goes on to saying “Let's face it, really good Mexican food is spicy. Real Texans love spicy food. And the really, really good stuff burns your lips.” Oh Really! Not all “real” Texans love spicy food and Mexican food is NOT that spicy! I am sure Diana Kennedy will be happy to hear this one …. Then I read two people’s comments, praising a couple of restaurants because they opened on Sept. 24 after the Rita scare so they can feed “restaurant-starved Houstonians who so badly needed a change of scenery and a dining-out fix”. Oh give me a break! I know I am probably over reacting , but come on! We cannot survive a few days without needing a “fix”. Then the two joints who actually opened get praised as if they committed and act of utmost charity. Why? In Houston the power didn’t even go off in most places. Elie
  18. FoodMan

    Dinner! 2005

    Sunday's Eastern Mediterranean Dinner: -Fried Kibbe, stuffed with ground lamb, pine nuts and tomatoes -Hummus -Carrot yogurt salad -Fatoosh: Lebanese salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, bell peppers and fried crispy pita bread. All is dressed in olive oil, lemon juice and sumac. Dessert was not so....Eastern Mediterranean...Jamie Oliver's Sticky Sponge Chocolate Pudding. Elie
  19. huh?!! This makes no sense what so ever. Who ever said that there are people with no flaws? Psaltis made soem statements in his book and some people are refuting those statements. No one as far as I can tell said that Barber is a perfect human being.
  20. Marble Rye was my latest experiment from the BBA: I made two loaves, one with the dark rye on the outside and one with the light on the outside. The flavor is excellent and they sure look cool. I packed the dark one well and it is now in my freezer. The other one is mostly gone (makes and awsome grilled cheese sandwich with Cheddar and Dijon). The only trick to this bread is making sure both types of dough have the same texture/moisture. If they don't, combining them might be difficult. Elie
  21. My thoughts exactly. I have, over a period of time, been reading over this very amusing thread and it truly is amazing. I mean several people bought the book just to "be able to comment on it". Well, for me, the excerpts in the Daily Gullet were enough. Before this thread took off I read the first excerpt and my first thought was "thank God for tDG, this is one book I will not buy". It was not very interetsting and the writing was amateurish. Needless to say, I had no idea who this guy did so I did some research and found out. So, I will not be spending my time and money on this piece of work. On the other hand, and I say this just as an example, after reading the very first excerpt from "Turning The Tables" I wanted to read more and I ordered my copy! Needless to say I did not feel the same way about SOAC. Basically Mr. Psaltis' claims and accounts, whether true or not, were not presented in an interesting manner. Another point I was mulling over and not sure if it will make sense to anyone, but here goes. Psaltis is entitled to his opinion of Keller, AD, or Barber (that fake "Peter" name business is just rediculous). He can say what he wants about anyone but I get this feeling that the reason he was so heavily criticized, is because he, in the resaturant world, did not earn his stripes. He is very young, he NEVER ran his own restaurant and has had trouble with some of the most respected culinary personalities in this country. I would think if he was a seasoned vet in the industry his comments might have been better recieved. Maybe that was why Jeremaiah Tower's "below the belt" comments were. No, I will repeat again that I have not read the book and I will not, but honestly he comes out (judging by both pro and anti DP comments on this thread) looking like a whiny brat who was lucky enough to have connections in the publishing industry and get his book published.
  22. That is pretty amazing! I would've thought this is a water jar, like the ones we have in Lebanon! Was there a link to a recipe anywhere on this thread and I missed it? I am very intrigued. Elie
  23. Yeap a Batali recipe.... 24 hours might be ok for something that thick. I've never tried it though and I would think it's pushing it. Besides for the purposes of this preparation, you do not need more than a couple of hours to get the results you want. On the other hand I wonder if a longer period might "guild the lilly" . Elie
  24. What a fine looking hunk of steak! I do have a comment or two about this: First of, and I think I mentioned that on the other thread, I prepare it exactly the same way, I love the rosemary flavor with the oil. Also salt does draw moisture out, but that is a good thing in this case. I always salt steaks and let them sit for a while. This brings out some moisture and proteins to the surface and helps make for a wonderful crust due to the Mai-whatchamacall-it reaction. Basically you cannot salt a steak and leave it for 24hrs. or you will have cured meat, but an hour or two (depending on thickness) is a very good thing. Elie
  25. FoodMan

    Dinner! 2005

    Thursday: Butternut squash (this has to be my favorite fall vegetable) and Italian sausage spaghetti with chili flakes and lots of Parm. We had a glass of bubbly with it. Friday: The two-year old is at my in-laws for the night so we had a nice quiet Asian-themed seafood dinner. Started off with “Scallops and Butternut squash”. The scallops were seasoned with salt and pepper and seared in butter and olive oil. The squash (I still had the “bulb” part from last nights gourd) was cubed and sautéed in oil with ginger and garlic. The main course was “Blackened Tuna with mustard-soy sauce and beurre blanc” served rare of course with a watercress salad. The recipe is from Roy Yamaguchi and it was outstanding. We had a white French wine (L’atour I believe) with the meal. Dessert was a scoop of homemade Vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce Saturday: Chicken and sausage Gumbo. Served with white rice and a bottle of “Saint Arnold Oktoberfest” ale. Dessert: Upside-down Peach cake. Sunday: Fired up the smoker and cooked a brisket and a couple of racks of spare ribs. Side dishes were: - Potato salad in a mayo-sour cream dressing with green onions, red bell peppers, and bacon - Vinegary cabbage coleslaw - A last minute request for baked beans resulted in a can of Bush baked beans (bbq flavor ) More cake for dessert. Wow...looking back at it all, we sure ate well the last few days. Elie
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